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GWD26 Armchair Pick: Reuben’s top 3 from the new releases
Reuben picks three standout releases from Geneva Watch Days 2026: the GP Laureato Fifty Tourbillon, MING 57.05 Comet and L’Epée The Football.
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Fratello
Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs
For the first time in the Astron collection, Seiko introduces gray ceramic. The shiny non-alloy appears on the bezel, crown cap, and bracelet center links of two new Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronograph watches. While these models share the ceramic parts, they have differently colored titanium components. The HAB007 is the full-gray version, […] Visit Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Six From Seiko: A Roundup of Amazing Chronographs From the Depths of (Relative) Obscurity
Vintage Seiko, as most collectors know, is a rich tapestry. Once you learn the story of Colonel William Pogue, or try to track down the funky bracelet that Bruce Lee paired with his own Speed-Timer, the wormholes naturally open themselves, each with their own dizzying amounts of reference numbers, specific models, and fun nicknames for the mind to notice and then squirrel away for later. But what about the ones you might have overlooked? Midcentury Seiko chronographs are a riot of design variations, bold patterns, and contrasting color schemes—and all backed by genuine innovation in the guise of the first automatic chronograph, flyback movements with stacked register hands, collaborations with luminary designers, and freakish dabbles with postmodernism. It’s what makes them so much fun to pay attention to. Hence, these six Seiko chronographs that play with the form, proving that even across the decades there are still surprises to rediscover. Not just familiar references, but obscure offshoots. Seiko 6138-8000 “Baby Panda” Seiko’s dual-register chronograph debuted shortly after the 6139, which we all know as the world’s first automatic chronograph. And while both watches represent futuristic seventies design, the slimmer 6139 takes a backseat to this lineup’s exaggeratedly bulky cases and clashing, patterned color schemes that have garnered nicknames like “UFO,” “Kakume” (“square eyes”), and “John Player Special” (a nickname popularized ...
Worn & Wound
A Night of Watches and Enthusiasm in Salt Lake and Officially Introducing Worn & Wound Recommended
On August 27, Worn & Wound headed west for an evening of watches, good conversation, and plenty of time spent with fellow enthusiasts. Hosted with Citizen Watch America at Morgan Jewelers’ Center of Brilliance in Murray, Utah, the event brought together members of the local watch community and Morgan Jewelers’ clientele for a night of exploring, learning, and, of course, talking watches. With rare and unique watches from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Alpina, and Frédérique Constant on hand, there was plenty to see and plenty of reasons to linger. Attendees were able to get watches out of the case and onto their wrists, compare notes, ask questions, and learn from both the brands and one another. And, as tends to happen when a room is full of watch people, the conversation quickly moved well beyond the watches on display. There were plenty of highlights, including the Citizen Eco-Drive Photon, celebrating 50 years of Eco-Drive, as well as the limited-edition Hand-dyed Indigo Washi Paper Dial. Accutron brought its Spaceview 314, while Bulova showed off the retro-styled Super Seville Precisionist. Frédérique Constant and Alpina rounded out the mix with everything from an in-house worldtimer to the solar-powered Alpiner Extreme. But the watches were only half the fun. Enthusiasts mixed and mingled with Morgan Jewelers’ clientele throughout the evening, sharing collecting stories, swapping wrist shots, and helping one another discover something new. Some left with new kn...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Alpina Catches Rays And Light With New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre And Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre X Route Du Rhum
What We Know Alpina, the value-driven, adventure and outdoor Swiss watch brand, is chasing the sun (and artificial light) with some of its new releases. The brand is now, across more models, utilizing solar quartz movements manufactured by La Joux-Perret, the Swiss movement maker majority-owned by Japan's Citizen Group, which also controls Frederique Constant and Alpina. Solarmetre quartz movements are now available in both the updated Startimer Pilot and Alpiner Extreme models. Solar quartz is a natural fit for Alpina, bringing more reliability, accuracy, convenience, thinness, and value to its lineup. Both Solarmetre quartz models are priced at $1,495, offering an aggressively priced entry point into the brand with a movement also found in LVMH-owned watch brands, including TAG Heuer. The AL-140 caliber, solar quartz by La Joux-Perret, runs for up to 10 months in total darkness after a full charge, boosting the grab-and-go appeal. The shift to solar quartz (both model lines remain available in mechanical automatic versions as well) makes these pieces more practical while shaving millimeters from the case measurements and significant dollars from the price. Let's start with the solar Pilot Startimer. The new look for the pilot watch model was unveiled at Watches and Wonders this year, and now, amid the slew of releases for Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is giving us the Startimer Pilot Solarmetre. Available in three versions: two steel-cased models and one in sand-colo...
Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces Limited Edition 1815 Up/Down Models in a Smaller Size
A Lange & Söhne has introduced new limited edition versions of their 1815 Up/Down model, one of the brand’s key references for years. The Up/Down is a true enthusiast favorite, prized by Lange collectors for its unique and very German presentation of the power reserve on the dial, located within a circular subdial at the 8:00 position. This style of power reserve indicator is traced back to German pocket watches made in the late 19th century, and I personally have always loved the way it looks on Lange 1815s. The new references are newsmaking primarily because they are sized down from the brand’s current standard 1815 Up/Down, which measures in at 39mm. The original Up/Down, which is highly collectible today, had a 35.9mm case when it debuted. The case size of these new limited editions, in either white or pink gold, comes in at 37.5mm. That seems to me to be a pretty good compromise for a watch like this, which has always been conceived as a pure dress piece. It remains impressively thin, with a case height of 8.7mm. The dial is a cool, desaturated blue, with silver subdials for the power reserve and running seconds at 8:00 and 4:00, respectively. The color here would appear to be a bit of a tribute or callout to the original Up/Down, which was available in a similar but not quite identical shade. Blue is a color Lange frequently returns to for special editions and limited releases. Otherwise, the dial is fairly standard 1815 Up/Down fare, which is to say it’s ...
Deployant
GWD26: Armchair Pick: Chester’s Top 3 from the new release
The GWD26 armchair pick continues. Chester picks his top 3 from the event: Daniel Roth, Ferdinand Berthoud and L. Leroy Vox Temporis.
Time+Tide
CIGA Design marks 65th anniversary of first successful Chinese Everest ascent
CIGA design celebrates the 65th anniversary of China’s first ascent of Mt. Everest via the North Ridge. The watch features an automaton of Liu Lianman’s “human ladder” that allowed his fellow climbers to successfully pass the “Second Step,” and continue onward to a successful summit. The CIGA design Mechanical Automaton Watch Everest China 65th Anniversary … Continued
Time+Tide
New releases from Bvlgari, Lange, Laurent Ferrier and more
With Geneva Watch Days in full swing, here you’ll find the most important new releases of the second part of the year so far. We’re covering the event live from Geneva and, frankly, spoilt for choice; the sheer number of watches launched this week has been staggering, so if a model or two is missing … Continued
Monochrome
First Look - The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Petite Seconde Heure Dorée
Schwarz Etienne’s 1902 collection has evolved through a broad range of interpretations, including the Petite Seconde, Power Reserve and GMT models, all united by the Manufacture’s focus on in-house movement development and production in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The collection is a platform for trying out different functions and dial configurations while retaining its distinctive contemporary design […]
Deployant
Live from GWD26: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt | Hands-on Impressions
I had Michel Navas, one of the principals of La Fabrique du Temps to introduce the Rose Gold Gilt dial installed on the Daniel Roth Extra Plat.
Worn & Wound
Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for a Windup NYC Preview in Billings, Montana
Have you ever wanted the Windup Watch Fair to come to your neck of the wood? Well, if you live in Montana, you’re in luck. Following the success of our recent enthusiast night in Salt Lake, Worn & Wound is teaming up with Citizen Watch America once again, this time heading north to Montana. On Thursday, September 17, we’ll be joining our friends at Riddle’s Jewelry in Billings for a special preview of the offerings they’ll be bringing to Windup NYC next month, and you’re invited. Thursday, September 17, 2026 5:30–7:30 PM MT Riddle’s Jewelry – Billings Shiloh 1002 Shiloh Crossing Blvd. Billings, MT 59102 RSVP NOW! This isn’t your average watch event. We’re bringing along a curated collection of standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina—including watches that are difficult to track down, rarely seen in person, or simply deserve far more wrist time than they usually get. Everything will be out and in the metal, ready for you to pick up, strap on, obsess about, and, if one steals your heart… it’s ready for purchase. A few of the amazing highlights include: Citizen Eco-Drive Photon – Reference BJ6560-53W This limited edition celebrates the 50th anniversary of Eco-Drive technology and features a silver-tone Super Titanium case with a Duratect titanium carbide finish. Limited to just 5,000 pieces worldwide, it’s a standout example of Citizen’s ongoing commitment to light-powered watchmaking. Accutron Spacevi...
Deployant
Live from GWD26: Frederique Constant Classics Moneta | Hands-on Impressions
Next I was at the Frederique Constant suite, and handled the Classics Moneta with a "in-house" La Joux Perret movement and pitched below CHF 2k.
Worn & Wound
Gallet Officially Enters Its Renaissance for the Brand’s 200th Anniversary
It was nearly a year and a half ago that Breitling announced its acquisition of the long defunct Swiss watch brand Gallet. Since then, we’ve been waiting for an official comeback, and now it’s finally here in the year of the Maison’s 200th anniversary. Today marks the beginning of a new era of the historic watchmaker. In the 1800s when Gallet was first founded, La Chaus-de-Fonds was a global hub for watchmaking, giving rise to several legendary brands, including Breitling as well as Heuer, Zenith, and Girard-Perregaux. The period coincided with the Industrial Revolution, which trickled into the field of watchmaking, transforming it from a bespoke craft for the elite to an increasingly accessible craft thanks to growing mass production. The democratization of the watch opened doors for timekeepers to serve as more than a status symbol but a tool for adventurers in the realms of aviation, racing, and sailing. Gallet’s watches went on to time the Wright Brothers’ first powered flight, helped pilots track the time in world cities during the earliest intercontinental flights, and commemorated racing champion Rex Mays’ victory at the Springfield Mile. Gallet continues this lineage while bringing it into the modern era thanks to the technical expertise of Breitling. From the movements powering the models down to details like interchangeable quick release straps, Breitling has revived Gallet with contemporary upgrades while maintaining the original essence of the brand...
Monochrome
First Look - The Bold Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dazzle
The Octo Finissimo may be better known as Bulgari’s record-breaking platform for ultra-thin watchmaking. However, over the years, the collection has also welcomed artistic experimentation, with special editions such as the “sketch dials” and collaborations with artists and architects Lee Ufan, Mattar Bin Lahej, Kazuyo Sejima and Tadao Ando. This year, Bulgari continues its creative […]
Fratello
Gallet Returns For Its 200th Anniversary With Four New Watch Collections
Gallet is returning to the watch industry in 2026, exactly 200 years after its founding in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The historic Swiss name returns as a sibling brand to Breitling, which will manufacture the new watches and provide the infrastructure behind them. The relaunch centers on four collections — Flying Officer, Multichron Pilot, Multichron Sport, and […] Visit Gallet Returns For Its 200th Anniversary With Four New Watch Collections to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Gallet Multichron Sport
What We Know Mixed in with the new releases from Gallet today is the Gallet Multichron Sport. The watch, which, instead of modeling itself on any specific Gallet model, draws its inspiration from mid-century Gallet chronographs as a whole, is meant to act as a general-purpose, automotive-inspired, everyday, and "all-terrain" sports chronograph. What does that mean? Well, largely, it just means that the Multichron Sport is exactly what it says it is on the tin. It's a reasonably sized (by modern standards), reasonably priced (again, by modern standards), straightforward, to-the-point, legible, contemporary chronograph. It's a watch that will withstand anything a reasonable buyer throws at it. It's also the only watch in the lineup without a directly corresponding heritage model for comparison. That said, when lined up next to the other new offerings from the new Gallet, it still makes a lot of sense. Practically speaking, the Multichron Sport measures 41 mm across, 13.87mm thick, and 49.20mm lug-to-lug. Like the slightly larger Multichron Pilot and slightly smaller Flying Officer Chronograph, the Multichron Sport is powered by the Gallet 23 chronograph caliber. That movement, based on the Sellita SW510, is a cam-actuated chronograph with a 62-hour power reserve and a date at 6 o'clock. The Multichron Sport is available today in two configurations: a black and silver reverse panda dial with a silver tachymeter ring, and a blue dial with black subdials and a black tachymeter ...
SJX Watches
Golden Obsidian for Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater
One of the most striking watches to debut at Geneva Watch Days is a new variant of Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater featuring a dial made of Golden Obsidian. In variation from last year’s debut, it’s forgone the glossy black onyx dial in favour of naturally formed volcanic glass. Initial thoughts Beyond the dial the only change is the strap, still with its signature centre-lug though now in a brown calfskin which nicely dresses down the overall package. It’s a perfect example of the brand’s ethos as they expand the collection: methodical, deliberate and measured. Small changes that stack up and give buyers more choice, and the addition of the Golden Obsidian alongside the Onyx shows how one small change can take a watch from classical and serious to relaxed and charming — having both options in the lineup should help satisfy still-healthy demand for stone dials perfectly compliment each other and goes far to round out a healthily expanding lineup for Gérald Genta. Obsidian dial Golden obsidian is a variant of the jet-black volcanic obsidian you’re likely familiar with. It forms naturally when lava cools rapidly and traps microscopic pockets of iron, air and gas bubbles forming organic striations and graining through the glass. These imperfections give golden obsidian its warmth and shimmer, changing dramatically as light hits it from different angles. What it does share with stone is its unique formation, so no two Golden Obsidian dials will be alike. Like wi...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian
The Gérald Genta brand was officially revived as an independent stand-alone marque by Louis Vuitton’s elite watchmaking atelier, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), in 2023. With a focus on high-end complications in limited quantities, the spirit of legendary designer Gérald Genta (1931-2011) lives on. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Gérald Genta releases a second iteration […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt
Since its revival in 2023 under the direction of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, Daniel Roth has steadily reconstructed the distinctive design language of its founder, and the Extra Plat is perhaps its purest expression. A modern interpretation of Daniel Roth’s early time-only watches, it features the characteristic double-ellipse case and a slim, manually […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold With Gilt Dial
What We Know I'll come clean—I've been a bit more than mildly obsessed with the modern revival of Daniel Roth ever since I got to spend some time with the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in platinum last year. While that watch very much still reigns supreme for me in the lineup, Daniel Roth has just announced a new watch today that feels awfully close to unseating the Tourbillon's title for me. It's the new variation of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat in rose gold, but this time, it's with a black gilt dial. What's important to note is that this is a true gilt dial, not the often misconstrued sense of the word that many modern watches like to use for accents and markings printed in a gold tone. As I've covered on Hodinkee in the past, a real gilt dial is made by taking a base dial blank, printing a protective lacquer mask on what are typically the positive markings on a dial, and then galvanically coating the entire dial in black. The masked portions of the dial are protected from the coating, and after the lacquer is removed, the base metal underneath serves as the dial text. The dial of this Extra Plat starts as a dial blank of solid 5N rose gold, then is engine-turned by hand on a rose lathe to achieve the guillochage on the various sections of the dial in recognizably Daniel Roth style. Afterward, all the markings—Roman numerals, the Daniel Roth logo, dial number, etc.—are pad-printed with a pink varnish to protect them during the subsequent electroplating treatments. After th...
Monochrome
Introducing - New Versions of the Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Including a New 35mm Size
Marking a pronounced design shift for the British watchmaker, Bremont released the bold Terra Nova Jumping Hour model in 2025. A field watch inspired by early 20th-century military pocket watches and World War I trench watches, the Jumping Hour comes with two different displays: a 38mm montre à guichet-style watch with a covered dial and […]
Fratello
Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese
Ask any watch fan about the different M.A.D.Editions, and you’ll probably hear about the wacky, colorful aspects of the M.A.D.1 or the bonkers and fun modifications to the standard off-the-shelf caliber that powers the watches. For the new M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese, the brand presents a watch that almost looks deceivingly modest. But we all know […] Visit Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Miroir Image: Berneron Inverts the Mirage
Berneron is following the release of its most complicated model with its simplest: the Mirage Miroir. An inverted variant of the popular Mirage 38, the Miroir flips the script to put the golden calibre on display in lieu of a traditional dial. Initial thoughts I’ve been looking forward to the launch of the Miroir since seeing the 3D-printed plastic prototype earlier this year. The inverted format is not especially new, but the Miroir is probably hitting the trend in stride. Beyond the popularity of the mirrored concept itself, Berneron’s house style for movement finishing suits being put on display. Unfortunately, the inverted format precludes a dial. This isn’t a critique of the Miroir as much as it is a weakness shared across the category. Of course, watches like this exist because for many collectors, the opportunity to see the movement — which in this case offers a rich palette of materials and textures — is preferable to looking at a dial. Rather than expose the relatively uninteresting dial side of the main plate, Berneron has opted for a closed case back, similar to the Montblanc “Unveiled Secret”. This choice gives the compact watch surprising heft and a low-profile feel on the wrist. The Miroir also introduces the brand’s first bracelet, which embodies the same detail-oriented approach to construction that Berneron puts into its watches. I tried on an early example of the bracelet back in April, and even then the quality was obvious — the alterna...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Superlight Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero
Officially launched just two years ago, Gagà Laboratorio is a spin-off of the longstanding Italian luxury designer watchmaker Gagà Milano. The inaugural Labormatic line encapsulates the brand’s highly creative mechanical personality, underscored by 1950s Italian industrial design codes and powered by Swiss La Joux-Perret movements. Instead of traditional hands, the Labormatic displays the digital hours […]
Time+Tide
New releases from Fears, Vacheron Constantin, Atelier Wen and more
With Geneva Watch Days kicking off Tuesday, most of this week’s novelties are trying to get ahead of next week’s flood of news, and they’re not holding back. You’ll find completely new perpetual calendars, fresh chronograph sizes from established names, and some genuinely incredible craftsmanship from a few of the best houses to ever do … Continued
Fratello
You Don’t Wanna Mess With The Black-Dial Certina DS-2 Powermatic 80 On A Steel Mesh Bracelet
Yes, this watch’s origins unmistakably lie in the 1960s. Still, the black-dial Certina DS-2 on a steel mesh bracelet seems to be in the right place at the right time. Its black lacquered dial, sharp lines, and steel mesh bracelet give it a look you don’t want to mess with. We almost didn’t dare tell […] Visit You Don’t Wanna Mess With The Black-Dial Certina DS-2 Powermatic 80 On A Steel Mesh Bracelet to read the full article.
Fratello
The Top 5 Watches Released In August 2026
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll return to our series of articles focusing on the best releases of every month. Summer is coming to an end, and most of you are slowly getting back into the pace of daily work life. August is usually a really quiet month, with many brands temporarily closing up […] Visit The Top 5 Watches Released In August 2026 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
An Evening With King Seiko And The Seiko Summer Jazz Camp All Stars
Dizzy’s Club in Columbus Circle, an extension of Jazz at Lincoln Center, is one of New York City’s premier destinations for live jazz, with world-class acts performing directly in front of a panoramic view of the city skyline. In late July, I had the opportunity to experience one of these performances in person, along
Fratello
Streaking Through The Heavens With The New Ming 57.05 Comet
Well, you never know what you’ll find when opening an email from Ming. This time, it’s the new 57.05 Comet, a stirring take on a worldtimer with a couple of party tricks up its sleeve. While I haven’t seen this watch in the metal, I’ve certainly spent enough time with the brand’s other offerings to […] Visit Streaking Through The Heavens With The New Ming 57.05 Comet to read the full article.