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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.
Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Selfwinding - An Unexpected And Unusual Shape Fratello
Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Selfwinding - May 31, 2024

Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Selfwinding - An Unexpected And Unusual Shape

What to expect after the [RE]Master01? Well, the [RE]Master02, of course. But what would that second reinterpreted timepiece look like? Nothing like anyone expected. Instead of riding the wave of comfortable retro, Audemars Piguet chose to go asymmetrical. The [RE]Master02 Selfwinding is the result of a deep dive into a niche of the brand’s archives. […] Visit Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Selfwinding - An Unexpected And Unusual Shape to read the full article.

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First Look – The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Vendome One Limited Edition Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer May 31, 2024

First Look – The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Vendome One Limited Edition

Recently, luxury brand Chopard expanded its presence by opening a prestigious hospitality establishment at Place Vendôme 1, in Paris. This boutique hotel offers five rooms and ten suites, each uniquely decorated. To mark the opening of the Chopard Hotel, the brand has introduced the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Vendôme One, a special edition watch […]

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Breguet Connects the Dots between Art and Time at Frieze New York Quill & Pad
Breguet Connects May 31, 2024

Breguet Connects the Dots between Art and Time at Frieze New York

Breguet was an engineer, an astronomer and also a designer. He adapted certain techniques to horology, such as guilloché, for example. The art of Breguet is in the details, in the finishing, and the artworks at Frieze are also all about the details … an artwork is something you have to look at multiple times, and each time, you're going to discover different things.

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Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1972 IWC May 31, 2024

Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta

After having designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), IWC Ingenieur (1974), and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976), Gerald Genta also penned the Seiko Credor Locomotive in 1978. Now Seiko has revived the Credor Locomotive, preserving much of the original’s aesthetics but executing it in the brand’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium and installing the new Credor CR01 automatic movement. The 1978 sketch of the Locomotive Initial thoughts Probably the last of the 1970s integrated bracelet sports watches Genta designed, the Locomotive is typical of his work of the period. In fact, the design is arguably an amalgamation of his better-known creations. Though it brings to mind his other work, the Locomotive is distinctive and definitely polarising. The Locomotive isn’t Genta’s best creation, but for some reason I like it. I’m familiar with the original and it has charm, despite being a little weird. I am sure the new limited edition will have far superior fit and finish, which will boost the intrinsic appeal. At the same time, the retail price of US$12,000 is competitive, especially when set against the Swiss competition like the IWC Ingenieur. Forward motion Named locomotive in the hope that it would propel Seiko forward, the Locomotive was designed by Genta at the request of Reijiro Hattori, a grandson of Seiko’s founder and uncle of current Seiko Group chairman Shinji Hattori. Genta’s original sketch for the Locomotive is dated 1978, and the watch was l...

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Porsche Design’s Custom-Built Chronograph brings the luxury car optioning experience to the world of watches Time+Tide
Porsche Design s Custom-Built Chronograph brings May 30, 2024

Porsche Design’s Custom-Built Chronograph brings the luxury car optioning experience to the world of watches

There are more than 1.5 million unique variations of this watch, and you can personalise it to exactly match your Porsche car. That's wild.The post Porsche Design’s Custom-Built Chronograph brings the luxury car optioning experience to the world of watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[VIDEO] A Brief Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome, and the Black Bay Thunderdome, Part II Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome May 30, 2024

[VIDEO] A Brief Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome, and the Black Bay Thunderdome, Part II

It’s been a few months since the end of Watches and Wonders, and the world of watches is starting to feel a little bit more normal again. There aren’t dozens of watches fighting for your attention in countless new release articles. What is happening though is many of these watches  are making their way into the hands of enthusiasts and first impressions and #NWAs are starting to trickle out with the best and brightest that Watches and Wonders had to offer. One such beneficiary of these new watches hitting the streets is yours truly. I got a brief hands-on with the new Tudor Black Bay 41 “Monochrome” during a pop in at the W&W; HQ, and spent just enough time with it to walk away with a few solid first impressions.  Tudor DNA Distilled Into A Single Watch One of the first things I noticed about the BB41 Monochrome is just how Tudor it really is. The snowflake hands pop off the contrasting black dial, the 60-click bezel clicks past markings with an authoritative snap, and polished slab sides make up the bulk of the height of the watch. The dial is clean and easy to read, not a hint of fauxtina in sight. There’s no date, which keeps things super simple. Two lines of text is just the right amount of words to let you know how deep you can dive and that your watch will be very, very accurate (as far as mechanical watches go, at least). Upon closer inspection, the dial features a more interesting finish than it first leads on. It’s satin-finished with a slight sunburs...

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First Look – The Kauri Régulateur Carbone, a Modern Retrograde Minute & Jumping Hours Regulator Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin May 30, 2024

First Look – The Kauri Régulateur Carbone, a Modern Retrograde Minute & Jumping Hours Regulator

Kauri is an independent watchmaking brand recently founded by Samuel Gillioz. This young watchmaker studied at the École d’Horlogerie de Genève before gaining experience at Timelab and Vacheron Constantin in the highly respected Cabinotiers workshop. In 2019, Samuel Gillioz launched Kauri with the vision of creating something unique and original. The main specificity of his […]

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#TBT Moonshine Joy With The Valjoux 88-Powered Gallet Multichron Astronomic Ref. 999 Fratello
May 30, 2024

#TBT Moonshine Joy With The Valjoux 88-Powered Gallet Multichron Astronomic Ref. 999

It could have been about three or four years since I saw a Gallet Astronomic listed last time. It was on eBay, and the price reached the €10,000 limit, so I was hesitant. My dilemma didn’t last long; someone bought it before I made up my mind. When the opportunity came again, I was ready! […] Visit #TBT Moonshine Joy With The Valjoux 88-Powered Gallet Multichron Astronomic Ref. 999 to read the full article.

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First Look – Parmigiani Introduces Three Fresh Colours to the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda went through May 30, 2024

First Look – Parmigiani Introduces Three Fresh Colours to the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

Designed by Michel Parmigiani, the classic Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda went through a tasteful facelift as an integrated sports watch following the appointment of Guido Terreni at the helm of the brand. The collection quickly proved to be a hit, which was further supported by the introduction of several new models, including the smart and innovative […]

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Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape Fratello
Schofield May 30, 2024

Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape

For some of you, the bold case shape will be instantly recognizable as a Schofield creation. But while it is indeed symbolic of the brand, this is a very different product of Giles Ellis’s furtive imagination. Does it set the tone for what can be a stand-alone totem of a watch or a new line […] Visit Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape to read the full article.

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Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal SJX Watches
Richard Mille Unveils May 30, 2024

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal

Described by the brand as the “climactic conclusion” of the line of ultra-light watches made for the tennis champion, the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal weighs just 11.5 g without its strap – or about two sheets of A4 printer paper. Like many of Richard Mille’s watches, the RM 27-05 is cased in carbon composite, specifically Carbon TPT B.4. More compact than the brand’s typical watches, the tonneau-shaped case is a compact 37.25mm by 7.2 mm. And according to Richard Mille, it is shock resistant to about 14,000 g. Initial thoughts Richard Mille was the first to make ultra-light a thing in watches with the RM009 ALUSiC that was introduced almost 20 years ago. The brand took the concept to the extreme with the RM 27 that debuted in 2010. Weighing just 13 g without the strap, it was conceived for Rafael Nadal to wear while playing tennis. The watches have gotten even lighter since then, and the RM 27-05 is the final chapter in the series. Weighing essentially nothing at 11.5 g without the strap, it is as lightweight as it gets for a mechanical watch of this type. Besides being the most extreme example of Richard Mille’s ultra-light philosophy, the RM 27-05 is also quintessential Richard Mille in terms of style. The notched outline and vents on the case, and the hyper-mechanical appearance of the skeleton movement, are very much typical of the brand’s current design ethos. In short the watch is very much Richard Mille. That also holds true for the price, ...

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Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback Fratello
Gerald Genta May 30, 2024

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback

The Credor Locomotive is a fascinating design from the late 1970s. Today, the brand has brought it back to life. Let’s take a first look at this rather special timepiece and find out more. Anything Gérald Genta once touched (or, rather, designed) may as well have turned to gold. We’ve seen many brands leverage his […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Audemars Piguet 1972 Royal Oak Patek May 30, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive

Gerald Genta is surely mostly known for his work with Audemars Piguet (1972, Royal Oak), Patek Philippe (Nautilus, 1976) or his own bold and original creations. There is, however, much more to the man than just these two icons of the luxury sports watch category (think Universal Geneve Polerouter, Omega Constellation or Rolex King Midas). […]

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts May 30, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic

The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function.  The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality.  A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...

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Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style Fratello
May 29, 2024

Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style

The young Swedish brand Nezumi has made a name for itself with a catalog of stylish, affordable watches. Now, with the release of its new Terrain field watch, the Stockholm-based brand has completed its ultimate traveling triumvirate, the Adventure Trio. Alongside the new Terrain, we have the relatively longstanding but revised Baleine dive watch and […] Visit Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style to read the full article.

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The G-SHOCK of Fountain Pens: the Pilot Varsity Worn & Wound
Seiko May 29, 2024

The G-SHOCK of Fountain Pens: the Pilot Varsity

Without a doubt, my favorite pen is the LAMY AL-Star. I could (and very well might) write paragraphs about this incredible fountain pen - something which would be an absolute joy, thanks in large part to the lovely experience the LAMY offers - but that’s not the pen I’m here to talk about today. That’s because, despite my fondness for the iconic AL-Star, it is not the pen I use most. It’s not even the fountain pen I use the most. No, that honor goes to the humble Pilot Varsity disposable fountain pen. I would categorize the LAMY AL-Star (and its remarkably similar sibling, the Safari) as the Seiko of fountain pens. Like a Seiko, it is often cited as a great first fountain pen for people looking to try something outside the typical rollerballs and ballpoints we see everyday. Also like a Seiko, the LAMY is a gateway pen, one which often leads to other more expensive options. The LAMY could easily be the one pen with which you live your entire life. For a totally reasonable amount of money, anyone could be happy with a LAMY, just as anyone could be happy with a Seiko SPB Diver. The AL-Star’s got everything you need, and nothing you don’t. It’s well-made, well-designed, and comes in so many variations that it would be hard not to find one that suits your taste. Pen collectors I know who have pens many multiples (sometimes many, many) the value of the LAMY still frequently cite it as one of their favorites. But if the LAMY is the Seiko of fountain pens, then t...

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Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos Fratello
Hermes May 29, 2024

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos

The Hermès Cut debuted in April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. That’s why we were quite surprised when we received an invite from Hermès for a press trip organized around this new watch. Usually, trips like this are organized in advance to focus everyone’s attention on the novelty. It’s also common that the program […] Visit Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos to read the full article.

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The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches Fratello
Breitling Avenger Watches Even if May 29, 2024

The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches

Even if you’re not a plane spotter or an aviation enthusiast, the name Red Arrows might very well ring a bell. The Red Arrows are the RAF’s legendary aerobatic display team that is celebrating its 60th display season this year. What better way to so do than with accurate formation flying, synchronized barrel rolls, and […] Visit The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches to read the full article.

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