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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.
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Bremont testing instrument turned watch May 21, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 50: Omega’s Got the Whole World in their Hands

We’re up to episode 50 of A Week in Watches! This week we’ve got several new releases with little in common other than being new. That’s fine by us though. First up is the brutal Ollech & Wajs 8001, their first integrated bracelet sports watch in 50 years. Then we have a Bremont testing instrument turned watch. After, we check out two new offerings from Aera, one in blue the other in gray. And finally, Omega dropped some new Aquaterra worldtimers that are worth knowing about. This week’s episode is sponsored by Whatnot, a live-stream auction app where you can buy and sell unique items. Come join the Windup Watch Shop for their first stream on Tuesday, April 23rd at 5PM Eastern, where they will be showing and selling various items from the shop. Follow this link to sign up for Whatnot and get $15 in credit toward your first purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 50: Omega’s Got the Whole World in their Hands appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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“Just created, 50 years ago” – Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier May 21, 2023

“Just created, 50 years ago” – Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story

One of the original champions of the geometrical, integrated-bracelet watch design is Baume & Mercier, first entering that market with the 1973 Riviera. Its dodecagonal bezel and minimal dial layout were designed by Jean-Claude Gueit, preceding many integrated-bracelet icons by some years. David Chaumet has been steering the Baume & Mercier ship since 2019, and … ContinuedThe post “Just created, 50 years ago” – Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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5 reasons you need to be familiar with the Omega Speedmaster Reduced Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Reduced It’s fair May 21, 2023

5 reasons you need to be familiar with the Omega Speedmaster Reduced

It’s fair to say that the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is one of the most famous watches of all time, up there even in the minds of the uninitiated. As the watch that went to the moon and thrived on racetracks, it’s cemented a strong legacy within horological history and has become a stylistic icon. As … ContinuedThe post 5 reasons you need to be familiar with the Omega Speedmaster Reduced appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is King – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus May 21, 2023

Why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is King – Reprise

After reading article after article discussing the virtues of Patek Philippe's Nautilus, it became clear to watch enthusiast and Quill & Pad reader Perry Heim that none stated a self-evident truth that appears obvious to him. In this "letter to the editor" Perry explains in detail what he finds so appealing about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711. And he stacks the Nautilus up against some serious contemporary contenders.

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Digital Meets Analog with the Teenage Engineering TP-7, Quite Carry Premieres The Drift Large Contoured, & the Svelte Voigtländer Ultron 27mm Prime Lens Worn & Wound
May 20, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Digital Meets Analog with the Teenage Engineering TP-7, Quite Carry Premieres The Drift Large Contoured, & the Svelte Voigtländer Ultron 27mm Prime Lens

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Teenage Engineering Teenage Engineering’s TP-7 Equips The Digital Recorder An Analog Feel Via Teenage Engineering You can bet that anything produced by Teenage Engineering is going to have a clean and distinguishable design. With a focus in developing high quality, Swedish designed electronics and synthesizers, there’s a consistent level of attention to detail across their range of products. Their latest is the TP-7 – a compact field recorder that combines their unique design language with an appealing analog feel. Via Teenage Engineering The TP-7 is built to record in all sorts of situations, from recording music to logging important thoughts for later on. Each button is strategically placed so that every function is accessible in the palm of your hand. The main feature is its mechanical tape reel which allows you to conveniently scrub through previous recordings or seamlessly navigate the TP-7 menu. Plus the actual look and feel of the center wheel adds to the cool factor that is sure to speak to all of us analog lovers. The Teenage Engineering TP-7 will r...

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Up Close: The Imperial Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned May 20, 2023

Up Close: The Imperial Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

With the Geneva auctions just having concluded, the spring sale season now moves to Hong Kong. The biggest event during auction week in the city will undoubtedly The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, an evening sale that take places at Phillips on May 23. The auction gets its name from the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96QL in platinum once owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last Emperor of China. Known to the market for several years but now going under the hammer for the first time, the watch might emerge as the year’s most valuable watch sold at auction – or it might not, given the mixed reputation of the final Qing Emperor. But regardless of the value, the Puyi’s Patek Philippe is an exceptionally interesting watch, both intrinsically and in terms of provenance. The provenance Phillips pulled out all the stops in marketing The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, no doubt an attempt to reach an audience beyond watch collectors. While the ref. 96QL is an exceedingly rare watch – and worth millions on its own – the provenance of this example is bona fide “Imperial”. The story of the watch is ably told in a documentary produced by Phillips especially for the auction. The 17-minute film explains how the life and times of Puyi, his fascination with timepieces, and importantly, how the ref. 96QL ended up in the possession of a Russian translator. Amongst the interviewees in the film is Russell Working, an American journalist who once profiled the Russian translator, Georgy Pe...

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Buffy’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store Time+Tide
Baltic picks from May 20, 2023

Buffy’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store

If you’ve been paying attention to Time+Tide lately, I’m sure you’ve become aware that our store now stocks Baltic watches. As one of the world’s most beloved microbrands, this is an incredibly exciting time to start getting involved with their elegant range of retro divers and dress pieces. I tend to prefer smaller watches with … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5980/1400G – May 20, 2023

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023

The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...

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New Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph Limited Edition honours the 50th anniversary of the legendary sustainability-focused race Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph May 20, 2023

New Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph Limited Edition honours the 50th anniversary of the legendary sustainability-focused race

New Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph celebrates the 50th anniversary of The Ocean Race UN states its Carbonium timing bezel is largely made from recycled fishing nets and aeroplane fuselage offcuts, offering a 40% lower environmental impact than other carbon composites Ulysse Nardin is the official timekeeping partner for The Ocean Race, a gruelling … ContinuedThe post New Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph Limited Edition honours the 50th anniversary of the legendary sustainability-focused race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Story of the Walter White Watch, from "Breaking Bad" to "Better Ca Teddy Baldassarre
May 19, 2023

The Story of the Walter White Watch, from "Breaking Bad" to "Better Ca

The sixth and final season of AMC’s prestige drama series Better Call Saul, the prequel to the award-winning Breaking Bad, dropped on Netflix back in April, and a wristwatch that appears prominently in the series finale has caught the attention of avid small-screen watch spotters. Some of them may remember - while others may have missed - seeing the watch for the first time in Breaking Bad, where it played an even more significant symbolic role in the storyline of its owner, Walter White, played by multiple Emmy winning lead actor Bryan Cranston. Here is the story behind Walter White’s watch and why it is so much more than just a prop. When we first meet Walter White, in the premiere episode of Breaking Bad on January 20, 2008, he is a somewhat pitiable figure: an underpaid, underappreciated high school chemistry teacher who drives a Pontiac Aztek (remember those?), wears a cheap digital watch, and struggles to support his small family, which includes caring for a son with cerebral palsy. In that same pilot episode, Walter learns he has terminal cancer - a diagnosis that triggers the desperate and increasingly ruthless quest for illicit riches and power that defines the arc of the series, as Walter evolves from hapless, nondescript educator to the crystal meth kingpin of Albuquerque, New Mexico. (Series creator Vince Gilligan has described its high concept as “Mr. Chips becomes Scarface.”) The first watch that we saw Walter wearing is a fairly humble one, a ...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thomas S. Worn & Wound
Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 May 19, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thomas S.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Thomas S. brings us a capable trio that isn’t afraid to step off the well beaten path. There’s new stuff, hard to get stuff, and kinda (but not really) old stuff, all bound by a great sense of style and practicality. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I’m a minimalist at heart. That doesn’t mean I always succeed. As far as watches are concerned, I certainly have more than three (though proudly less than ten). I’ve spent the last couple of years working towards attaining my own perfect three watch collection. These watches are the core of what I take traveling, and are the most worn of all of my watches. I find it a well-rounded collection, if still leaning towards being sporty. As my collection grows (and shrinks) over the years, I anticipate these three watches remaining at the forefront of my collection. Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 – $1000 The SARB017 was the first mechanical watch I ever bought myself. I picked it up just after Seiko quietly discontinued it, and was lucky enough to get it well under what they are selling for now, new or used. With the trusty and near-indestructible 6R15 caliber inside, the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 holds its own as a daily work watch beater. I should know, I wear it often when climbing and pruning trees as an arborist. The crown guards and second crown at 4 o’clock bely the A...

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Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab Worn & Wound
Boldr Go Prehistoric May 19, 2023

Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab

Boldr is an exciting young brand based our of Singapore and Malaysia and they really live up to their mantra of “Be Boldr”. With an impressive lineup of tool watches under their belt, Boldlr is becoming known for their serious value proposition, crafting spec-packed watches that fall within very reasonable price ranges. Today, we’re happy to announce that their newest collaboration with Nitecore is now in the Windup Watch Shop. Let’s take a look at this unique and fun meeting of the brands, where the result is a dinosaur-themed mashup that’s sure to bring out your inner child. Boldr is an exciting young brand based our of Singapore and Malaysia and they really live up to their mantra of “Be Boldr”. With an impressive lineup of tool watches under their belt, Boldlr is becoming known for their serious value proposition, crafting spec-packed watches that fall within very reasonable price ranges. Today, we’re happy to announce that their newest collaboration with Nitecore is now in the Windup Watch Shop. Let’s take a look at this unique and fun meeting of the brands, where the result is a dinosaur-themed mashup that’s sure to bring out your inner child. The post Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Is the rise of male jewellery fuelling our love for integrated-bracelet watches? Time+Tide
Piaget was May 19, 2023

Is the rise of male jewellery fuelling our love for integrated-bracelet watches?

Worn by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Andy Warhol, Piaget was a brand that reeked of jet-set glamour in the 1970s. The launch of the Piaget Polo, the brand’s first integrated-bracelet watch, did little to dispel this aspirational image.  Released in 1979, the watch got widespread attention after it was photographed on the wrist … ContinuedThe post Is the rise of male jewellery fuelling our love for integrated-bracelet watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21 Time+Tide
Breguet x Frieze exhibition May 19, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21

On Wednesday afternoon in New York City, I returned to The Shed at Hudson Yards to check out the new Frieze exhibition of which Breguet is a proud sponsor. With eight floors hosting phenomenal artwork from renowned galleries and artists around the world, it is a great space to immerse yourself in various cultures and … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler May 18, 2023

The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate

A friend of mine has this saying. Whenever he would see something old, he would point at it and say, “Old but good”. A rusty old Land Cruiser, a guitar that has endured years of abuse on stage, whatever it is, it’s old but good. We have a fascination with objects that have taken on … ContinuedThe post The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Three Lasting Divers Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Tudor Sinn May 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Three Lasting Divers Under $5,000

We’ve been inundated with incredible dive watches in recent years, at a wide range of price points, but particularly under $5,000, where dive watches belong. There are three examples in particular that represent this trend, and all three have remained standard bearers in the subsequent short years since releasing. Each of these watches reveal something important about Tudor, Sinn, and Seiko, in that even when it comes to straight forward tool watches, they can still surprise us in the best of ways. We’ve written plenty about these three watches since their releases, and today we’re looking at how they’ve come to form the core of my own dive watch rotation. Recent trends point to something of an unraveling of the typical genre labels, as well as an embrace for watches that lean toward the formal end of that equation, at minimum alongside the more tool-ish watches that have enjoyed the spotlight in the recent past. However, there’s something comforting about a classic diver, like grilled cheese and tomato soup, that always keeps people like me coming back. These are the kinds of watches that I end up reaching for more than any other on the day to day, as practical (and handsome) companions for my lifestyle. These are the watches that seem to transcend style trends that shift from era to era in the most blunt of manners.  In this video, I walk through each of these watches and why they’ve remained in my own watchbox since their release, and how well they’ve sto...

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Out Of Office: Cruising the California Coast With The Grand Seiko SBGE285 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGE285 “Out May 18, 2023

Out Of Office: Cruising the California Coast With The Grand Seiko SBGE285

“Out of Office” is a series of stories accounting our experiences trying to find moments of solace outdoors, as well as our interaction with the gear that comes along with us, and that most certainly includes the watches on our wrist. Out of Office is an escape. It’s about finding an opportunity to put the world on pause, whether it’s the few minutes you take out of your day to read this article, or its the couple of hours you dedicate to getting out there. It’s where our experience meets our enthusiasm. Through this series we’ve already seen our authors do a hike in the local hills with a Sinn, explore a glacier via seaplane with a Citizen and a road trip through New England with a Rolex. Let’s continue this journey together and see where it takes us.” It’s no secret that I love the west coast. I might have been born in Tennessee, but my heart belongs in California. The ocean, the trees, the mountains…they just have my soul. I was recently in San Francisco for our annual Windup Watch Fair and decided to take a few days after the event to travel North up the Sonoma Coast, then back down to Monterey before heading back to Nashville. I expected a fun relaxing vacation with my BFF and that’s exactly what I got.  Before I dive into some of the places I visited on this trip, I want to quickly go over some of the gear I brought with me. My camera of choice for this vacation was the Panasonic Lumix S5II with the Panasonic 85mm 1.8 lens. This camera is on lo...

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Should watch brands cancel orders placed with the intention of immediately flipping them? Time+Tide
May 18, 2023

Should watch brands cancel orders placed with the intention of immediately flipping them?

Watch flipping. The practice, depending on which side of the coin you are on, poses one of the biggest problems or opportunities within the watch space today. With watches increasingly being looked at as an investment opportunity, and financial figures such as Kevin O’Leary endorsing the notion that investing in watches is better than investing … ContinuedThe post Should watch brands cancel orders placed with the intention of immediately flipping them? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” for Revolution & The Rake with Guillaume Laidet Revolution
Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” May 18, 2023

Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” for Revolution & The Rake with Guillaume Laidet

Wei sits down with Guillaume Laidet of Vulcain to discuss the new Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ limited edition for Revolution & The Rake. The Vulcain Cricket dates back to 1947 when it was introduced as the world’s first mechanical alarm watch, powered by the now-legendary caliber 120. The alarm worked with a hammer that struck […]

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Citizen Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Arena with the NJ015 Series “Tsuyosa” Worn & Wound
Citizen Enters May 18, 2023

Citizen Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Arena with the NJ015 Series “Tsuyosa”

Five years ago, if someone were to ask me for advice on an affordable, reliable, all-purpose watch with some enthusiast/collector credibility, I’d definitely have Seiko on the tip of my tongue, and probably Timex and G-Shock as well. A brand that I might not have been as quick to mention would be Citizen, which is perhaps a bit ironic for me personally, because a Citizen is literally the first watch I can remember picking out for myself, years and years before this would become a hobby, let alone a profession. But something is happening at Citizen that is truly compelling. They’ve always had an expansive catalog, but recently they’ve been able to zero in on the stuff that really makes them special. Affordable, tactical divers are one avenue where they’ve had some success, and I’d argue they currently have a slight edge on Seiko in that department, overall. And with the recent release of the NJ015 “Tsuyosa” collection (the word means “strength” in Japanese) Citizen is making a play at the competitive “sporty, everyday casual” segment of the market with a colorful integrated bracelet option. Coming in at less than $500, these seem destined to appear on “recommended” lists. What we have here are straightforward, time and date automatic watches in stainless steel cases with integrated bracelets. The design is vaguely vintage inspired, but this type of watch is so common right now, it feels completely contemporary. The obvious point of comparison is Ti...

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