Hodinkee
Ben Clymer Presents: Ep. 01 – The Collaboration Episode With Jean Arnault And Rexhep Rexhepi
Inside the new collaboration between Akrivia and Louis Vuitton (and what comes next...).
Results for The Dirty Dozen
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater Honeygold
Well before A. Lange & Söhne debuted the entirely classical Richard Lange Minute Repeater a year ago, the brand’s flagship striking watch was a Zeitwerk. Available in white gold or platinum before, the digital chiming watch now returns in a warmer metal as the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater Honeygold. While remaining the same mechanically, the new repeater strikes a different tone according to the brand because of the case metal, a gold alloy slightly harder than conventional gold that is exclusive to Lange. Initial thoughts The new Zeitwerk repeater is more appealing than its predecessors in my eyes just because I like the gold-and-grey combination. The platinum model was monochromatic while the blue dial on the white gold model felt too modern for the watch. The movement remains exactly the same as before, which means it’s the same impressively complicated calibre that has the usual Zeitwerk features like a constant force mechanism, as well as the added complexity of an unusually constructed minute repeater with various safety mechanisms catered to the digital display. But one aspect of the new repeater is interesting, and that’s the case metal. I’ve yet to hear the watch in person, but Lange’s product development head, Anthony de Haas, is quoted as saying the new repeater “in honey gold… sounds different to all other materials ‒ truly distinctive.” Given the significant increase in hardness of honey gold relative to ordinary 18k gold, that sounds credible. ...
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Unveils the Gimballed Tourbillon Cardan
Having teased the launch of its eighth “fundamental invention” earlier this summer, Greubel Forsey has unveiled the Tourbillon Cardan featuring a 16-second inclined tourbillon suspended by a set of cardans, otherwise known as universal joints or gimbals. And for the nerds: the tourbillon is suspended in a mechanised gimbal that makes a fixed oscillation driven by the tourbillon, rather than a free-swivelling gimbal with differential gearing. Initial thoughts Despite a recent focus on sport watches, the Tourbillon Cardan is a reminder that no one does oversized, over-engineered watches quite like Greubel Forsey. The Tourbillon Cardan feels like a bridge between the past and future of the brand, suggesting the Tourbillon Cardan has been in development for several years. The dynamic and visually compelling nature of the tourbillon, the large sizing, and the traditional form of the case recall the Greubel Forsey of years past, while the minimalist aesthetic and the choice of titanium for the case material are clear hallmarks of the brand’s future trajectory. Impressive as it is, the swivelling tourbillon is not entirely a new idea. Zenith once had a double-axis gimballed escapement in its catalogue that was more complex than the Tourbillon Cardan but suffered from so-so reliability due to that very complexity. Greubel Forsey has approached the gimbals in a more concise manner, with the gimbals oscillating in a fixed motion that is being by the rotation of the tourbillon...
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Shop Alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain
It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. The post Windup Watch Shop Alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Raymond Weil x Basquiat Freelancer Special Edition
Complete with quintessential Basquiat motifs and references, Raymond Weil finds its latest inspiration for its signature Freelancer Chronograph in one of the most enigmatic artists of the 20th century.
Video
GWF1000 G-Shock Frogman - 3184 module - DETAILED tutorial, how to set-up and use ALL THE FUNCTIONS!!
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Understanding The Newly-Revised Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement
Ten years after the groundbreaking original, the Constant Escapement is back – smaller, and more refined than ever.
Time+Tide
WHAT IF… Breguet were also able to use the co-axial escapement?
Forget teaming up with Swatch: Zach speculates what would happen if Breguet took a leaf out of Omega's book.The post WHAT IF… Breguet were also able to use the co-axial escapement? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack
One of my favorite episodes of Seinfeld is “The Chicken Roaster,” the eighth episode of season 8. You probably remember this one: it involves a Kenny Rogers Roasters restaurant opening across the street from Kramer’s apartment, and eventually he switches apartments with Jerry to get some sleep (because obviously the big neon sign is keeping him up all night) which leads to some of the funniest moments in the history of the show (Jerry’s recollection of a late night phone call with Bob Sacamano will always stay with me). But the B-plot is great, too. It follows George and his saga with a Russian hat, intentionally left behind in the apartment of the woman who sold it to him, who of course he tries to date. This is a trick, he explains, to keep her interested. Like a jingle you can’t get out of your head. And that’s kind of how I feel about Bell & Ross. They have worked their way into my brain like a catchy pop song. They’re a mainstream brand that is capable of doing some truly weird stuff, and as someone who spends a lot of time observing and thinking about industry trends, I just find that fascinating. Their latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack, is squarely in the weird category, and a rare collaboration with an outside designer, Sacha Lakic. Lakic is known primarily for being the founder of Blacktrack, a Luxembourg based maker of custom cafe racers and other motorcycles. The new BR 03-94 takes specific inspiration from his BT-06 motorcycle, which can be seen p...
Hodinkee
Reading Time At HSNY: The Witching Hour
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Worn & Wound
Speake Marin’s New Openworked Sandblasted Ti is a Sign that the Early 2000s Indie Favorite is in the Midst of a Comeback
Don’t look now, but it appears that one of the great names of early 2000s independent watchmaking is back with their feet under them, fully invested in making interesting and beautiful watches. Speake Marin, founded by Peter Speake-Marin in 2002, was one of those gateway brands for many collectors coming of age at around the time the brand got its start, thanks in no small part to the founder being one of the most well liked and enthusiastic spokespeople not only for their own brand, but for indie watchmaking in general, of that era. Speake Marin (the brand) has had some ups and downs since the departure of its founder in 2017, but recent efforts like the Dual Time (in a host of festive colors) and the Ripples (their oddly named but quite striking entry in the integrated bracelet sports watch genre) have garnered more attention than the brand has seen in quite some time. Their most recent release, the Openworked Sandblasted Ti. The One & Two Openworked line has become a signature in the larger Speake Marin catalog, consisting of, well, evocatively openworked dials that show off some seriously high level manufacturing. They also do a great job of calling attention to the intricately finished movements and the unusual geometry and layout of Speake Marin watches, which is the underlying factor in what makes this watch so striking. The running seconds between 1:00 and 2:00 is, of course, deeply unusual, as is the visible barrel from the dial side with an engraving of the bra...
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Watches In The Wild | The Road Through America, Ep. 3: California Collecting Culture
SJX Watches
Fears Release New Versions of the Brunswick 40
British watch brand Fears has revealed new dial colours for one of its primary offerings, the Brunswick 40. The new variants are the Aurora with a mother-of-pearl dial, and the Copper Salmon with its eponymous metallic finish. But the two are not just cosmetic updates as the model has also undergone some improvements, including a larger 40 mm case and a novel typeface employed for the numerals. Initial thoughts Since the re-establishment of the Fears brand six years ago, I have always held an appreciation for the vintage-inspired design of the Brunswick in particular, with its cushion-shaped case and the subtle dial detailing. The highlight among the new additions would be the Aurora, which stands out from the rest of the Fears catalogue. Its mother-of-pearl dial that is comprised of two parts and finished by hand, giving each dial a unique look. The Aurora Having said that, the large case size of 40 mm does leave the new Brunswick somewhat substantial especially given its shape, bringing to mind to the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta. And with a case height of about 11 mm – not thick but not thin either – the case will sit fairly tall on the wrist. The pricing of the new Brunswick depends on the dial: the Copper Salmon is priced at £3,550 with a strap, while the Aurora is available for £3,850, with either being approximately £200 more with the bracelet. These prices are consistent with the existing models in the current collection. Considering the intrinsic features of ...
SJX Watches
Insight: When Simplicity Belies Complexity, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum
The Chronomètre Optimum is arguably François-Paul Journe’s most complex no-complication creation. Being a time-only watch, the Chronomètre Optimum displays the same amount of information as the entry-level Chronomètre Souveraine, albeit for more than twice the price, with the Chronomètre Optimum retailing for US$129,500 in platinum and a bit less in gold. On a pleasantly asymmetric dial, the Chronomètre Optimum presents the wearer with the time, down to the second, and a power reserve indicator. Plain as the dial might seem, the Chronomètre Optimum’s appeal lies in its inner, and largely hidden, complexity. In fact, the cal. 1510 within ranks among the most sophisticated time-only movements on the market today. Chronometry Historically the tourbillon was never a complication, though it is often regarded as such today – though some prominent collectors disagree. In this context, it is difficult to label the features of the Chronomètre Optimum true complications. But since the timepiece was designed with chronometry in mind, its features of engineered accuracy might just qualify as a complication. Chronometry in mechanical watchmaking is regarded as a marriage between accuracy and precision, as there is a nuance between the two. Accuracy is the quality of a watch or clock to have a timekeeping deviation as close to zero as possible, whereas precision relates more to the consistency and stability of the timepiece’s rate, rather than to a temporary lack of devi...
Time+Tide
The Héron Marinor is a classy Canadian dive watch with a tough secret
This retro-inspired dive watch isn't just a pretty face: it's a proper tool watch.The post The Héron Marinor is a classy Canadian dive watch with a tough secret appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The many facets of the Hublot Chronograph Orlinski Titanium
From case pushers to bracelet clasp, the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski is a bit of a light(weight) show.The post The many facets of the Hublot Chronograph Orlinski Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The sports watches war: Six excellent sports watches at different price points
We take a look at the highly popular sports watch category and select some of our favourite sports watches that are currently available.
Video
The perfect field watch: Christopher Ward C65 Sandhurst
Quill & Pad
Real-World Diving With The Seiko Prospex The 1968 Automatic Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Limited Edition SLA055 – Reprise
As a fan of the extraordinary Seiko Prospex 1000, Dietmar Fuchs took the limited version of the reinterpretation of a famous Seiko diving watch diving and shares his real-world experience with it here.
Time+Tide
The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is vying for the stealth-wealth crown
A salmon dial, platinum case, and bi-retrograde complication of the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is Vacheron Constantin's subtle take on the recent phenomenon.The post The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is vying for the stealth-wealth crown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Crazy Hot Wheels Collection, a Cider Donut Map, and the Works of Mike Flanagan
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com The Microsoft x Activision Deal is Final Microsoft, after many months of negotiations with regulatory bodies across the globe, has finalized their purchase of Activision, set to be the largest consumer tech acquisition in over twenty years. It’s a huge deal if you’re interested in gaming, for sure, but it’s an even bigger development in the world of tech writ large, and a sign that regulators who have tried to stifle the Microsofts, Googles, and Metas of the world from growing too large and powerful might be out of luck. The New York Times has the story, along with an analysis of what this deal might signify for companies the size of Microsoft going forward. Every Mike Flanagan Project, Ranked If you’re a horror movie fan, you’re coming to the end of what is probably your favorite month of the year. Horror movies (and TV series) just hit different in October. This year, as always, there’s an influx of high profile films and limited series with a spooky bent making their debut ahead of Halloween, and perhaps no single project has been more anticipated than The Fall of the Hou...
Quill & Pad
The 20 Semi-Finalists and my 5 Predicted Finalists of the 2023 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Creative Independents
When Louis Vuitton announces the Watch Prize for Creative Independents late last year, I thought that’s fantastic, but I wish it was launched 20 years ago when independent watchmakers were much less appreciated.
Time+Tide
Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast
This is less a recommended reading, and more so a recommended listening or viewing. A long time coming, schedules finally aligned and our Editor Zach Blass was able to join Peri and Ben, two thirds of the trio behind the burgeoning Wrist Check Podcast, to talk watches. Wrist Check explains: “Wrist Check is a weekly … ContinuedThe post Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
The New Zenith Models of Watches & Wonders 2023, Including the New Pilot collection
Time+Tide
Marnaut Safe Harbour and Dark Surge – the everyday warrior and the diving explorer
The Croatian microbrand dresses up their sea urchin inspiration, and updates the model they launched with.The post Marnaut Safe Harbour and Dark Surge – the everyday warrior and the diving explorer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton’s new Tambour is a show of the brand’s watchmaking know-how
Scrapping an entire collection and replacing it with a totally different proposition is hard, but it's exactly what Louis Vuitton has done with the new Tambour.The post Louis Vuitton’s new Tambour is a show of the brand’s watchmaking know-how appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Martin Scorsese Wearing A Rolex 'Kermit' Submariner Ref. 16610LV While Filming 'Killers Of The Flower Moon'
The maestro utilizes his seldom-seen tool watch on-set, and we have the pictures to prove it.
Teddy Baldassarre
The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction
How much would you pay for a watch? What if it was the only one of its kind, or a record-breaker in terms of complications, or once owned by someone famous or historically significant? And just how expensive are the most expensive watches to ever change hands in a sale? In today's red-hot watch auction market, the answers, and the sums, may surprise you. Here we run down the list of the top 25 watches in descending order of the price they fetched on the auction block, while spotlighting some of the timepieces with the most fascinating backstories and representing the most impressive technical achievements. You'll find the expected abundance of watches from Patek Philippe and Rolex (the clear leaders in the category) but also a few from other watchmakers, large and small, who've recently broken into the upper echelon. At the end, we'll spotlight the highest selling watches from a few other brands that didn't crack the top 25 but maintain a robust presence on the watch auction scene. 1. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 ($31.19 million, 2019, Christie’s) Patek Philippe unveiled the first Grandmaster Chime watch in 2014 as part of the many celebrations around the Genevan maison’s 175the anniversary. The reference that made history at the Only Watch auction in Geneva in 2019 was a unique piece, the only Grandmaster Chime ever crafted in stainless steel; the Grandmaster Chime models in Patek’s regular collection are all made in precious metals. The watch...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Second Generation Of The Bremont Supermarine S302
The next wave of the Bremont's smaller Supermarine focuses on travel time rather than bottom time.
Video