Deployant
Deployant Events: Highlights of the horological fortnight
Deployant Event: Highlights of the horological fortnight ending May 31, 2015. Showcasing Edox, Montblanc and Glashuette Original.
2,793 articles · 4 videos found · page 48 of 94
Glashütte Original's fifteenth limited Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date keeps things deliberately quiet. 100 pieces, German-speaking markets only, the in-house Calibre 37-02. Here's what actually changes for the XV.
Platinum, red gold, and aventurine glass - Glashütte Original strips the Senator back to let the dial do all the talking
A cleaner dress flyback and a tool-watch navigator replace the outgoing Panorama Date models. Both are worth your attention.
The new 70s Collection strips away the chronograph and doubles down on what made the original era great
Deployant
Deployant Event: Highlights of the horological fortnight ending May 31, 2015. Showcasing Edox, Montblanc and Glashuette Original.
WristBuzz
The latest Louis Erard collaboration channels Vianney Halter's iconic Antiqua perpetual calendar into a dual-movement regulator that costs a fraction of the original
Hodinkee
What We Know Steampunk and industrial-inspired watches are definitely seeing an uptick in certain collecting circles right now. Look no further than the dramatic rise in, and recent secondary-market sale prices for, Ōtsuka Lōtec pieces from Japan. But when it comes to steampunk retro-futurist horology, Vianney Halter is undoubtedly the pioneer and O.G. Halter's original Antiqua, a perpetual calendar conceived with American graphic designer Jeff Barnes and introduced to the public in 1998, is an immensely important work in the history of modern independents. Through influences including science fiction - films, TV, and literature - and most notably the French writer Jules Verne, Halter established his own unique design codes in a collection of timepieces that came to be called "Futur Antérieur” - the French tense for 'what will have happened' or, rather, looking forward while drawing on aesthetics and industrial designs of the past. Still ensconced in his Swiss atelier, the French-born Halter continues to produce extraordinary watches under his own name, but has also been particularly active in collaborating with a host of brands and fellow watchmakers in recent years. From Massena LAB, Behrens to Canadian independent jeweler and gemologist Alexandre Beauregard, and in September with the Geneva Watch Days show-stopping Bulgari Dual Time Octo Finissimo, Halter has lent his skills and unmistakable design language to a series of successful team-ups. An original Antiqua pe...
Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann continues to celebrate the 200th anniversary of its founder, Carl Moritz Grossmann (1826-1885), a key figure in Glashütte’s rise as a powerhouse of German watchmaking. After releasing seven anniversary models this year, the brand is launching a second celebratory edition of its unique Hamatic watch, powered by a pendulum-style hammer weight. Although the […]
SJX Watches
Monaco Legend Auctions is closing the year with one of its biggest auctions to date, with one of the top lots being a stellar Rolex ref. 6062 Oyster triple calendar in steel with gold-tone indices. An eighty year-old watch that feels original and honest, this ref. 6062 is only on its second owner in all that time, adding to its appeal. Already a rare watch in itself, this specific ref. 6062 stands out for its condition. It appears to have been worn carefully over the decades, while also having avoided being facelifted or enhanced. And of course this is an Oyster, meaning the case is water resistant, which no doubtlessly helped to preserve the dial. As a result, this ref. 6062 possesses its original details, including the shallow engraving on the case back and twin textures on the dial. Initial thoughts Though overshadowed by sports watches in the last decade, the triple calendar has long been one of the most desirable vintage Rolex models. And Rolex recently revived the concept with the Perpetual Padellone, which, despite the name, actually inspired by the ref. 6062 Oyster rather than the ref. 8171 “Padellone”. The ref. 6062 coming up in Monaco Legend’s auction at month’s end is one of the best examples to hit the block in some time. It’s in steel, which makes it more valuable than the equivalent gold model. And this has known, traceable provenance – just two owners in some 80 years – and as a result of that, the condition is original, crisp, and appealing....
Hodinkee
What We Know Happy birthday, A. Lange & Söhne. It’s October 24th, which marks another anniversary since the name was revived in Glashütte watchmaking in 1994. For the past few years, the brand has often used this milestone day to release a heavy hitter or two—the 30th-anniversary Lange 1s and the second-generation Zeitwerk come to mind. Today, Lange is dropping something absolutely nuts—a 50-piece limited edition of the Datograph Perpetual in platinum, with a diamond-baguette-adorned dial and a platinum bracelet. Yes, that’s right. Odysseus aside, this is A. Lange & Söhne's first commercially available watch with a bracelet since the long-gone Wellendorf days. And boy, is it a doozy. The dial retains the familiar layout seen in past iterations of the Datograph Perpetual, with the oversized date window at twelve o’clock, the two offset subdials below, and a moonphase at six o’clock. The subdials, which convey both information for the chronograph and the calendar complications, feature two small interruptions (subdials on top of subdials, basically) by way of a day/night indicator and the perpetual calendar’s leap year pointer. Aside from those two elements, the month, day of the week, running seconds, and thirty-minute counter are all contained within these two areas. What immediately stands out (and even more so in person) is a big twist that feels quite different from typical Lange—baguette-cut diamonds are used in place of baton indices for the hou...
Hodinkee
The small German town of Glashütte is paradise for watch nerds. Some people don’t quite believe how densely packed the watchmaking is in this little town in Saxony, with the biggest German horological names literally next door to each other. But undoubtedly the most iconic name in Glashütte watchmaking (and German high horology in general) is A. Lange & Söhne, and the manufacturer rarely opens its doors to outsiders to take a closer look at what the brand is up to. Earlier this year, during the rainy month of July, a few of us on the Hodinkee editorial team hopped over to Glashütte to see what was happening within the secretive walls of the Lange, and to say that the visit was unforgettable is surely the understatement of the century. There’s still lots to come from our visit, but one of the best moments of the few days I spent there was, well, looking at watches—very special watches though, pulled from the Lange archives. The Designs Behind The Revival Kicking it off are three of modern A. Lange & Söhne's inaugural silhouettes in yellow gold, representing the then-new designs unveiled by Günter Blümlein on October 24th, 1994. That day, of course, marked a pivotal moment that not only revived the A. Lange & Söhne name after a long period of dormancy, but also set a new standard for what high-end watchmaking meant in the mid-nineties, especially among its Swiss contemporaries. The Lange 1 could just be the most iconic model from the brand. It’s the onl...
Hodinkee
What We Know More often than not, modern revivals of older watch designs usually come in larger cases than the original. Sometimes, it's because of limitations on which calibers are available today. Other times, it's because of a broader market affinity for larger cases (even if we watch enthusiasts like to imagine otherwise). But with Dimepiece's take on the 1995 Timex Intrepid, that was never going to be the case. Today, Timex introduces the Intrepid x Dimepiece 'Blackout' Edition. It follows last year's successful release between the collaborators—Timex, Brynn Wallner of Dimepiece, and Alan Bedwell of Foundwell—that took the original 46mm case, shrunk it down to 36mm, and simplified the bezel and dial. In a move that largely centers around the idea of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," this year's version keeps almost everything the same, but with the twist of a black PVD-coated stainless steel case as well as a blacked-out version of the Timex Indiglo branding on the rubber strap. Other specs are identical, including the Indiglo-illuminated cream dial and a slide rule swapped for dive markings on the bezel insert. Purple, in the same hue as the Dimepiece logo, appears on the twelve o'clock marker, the seconds hand, and the nine o'clock Indiglo pusher. The new Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece 'Blackout' Edition is available through Timex, Dimepiece, and select retailers, and priced at $269. What We Think You know those watches that keep popping into your head, despite the...
Fratello
Names of Swiss watch brands and models can be tricky to pronounce, especially the French ones. Does the name Jay-Jay Le Coot ring a bell? I will let you figure it out and bring up another name. It’s now an official name, but it stems from the trouble some had in pronouncing the original. In […] Visit Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic to read the full article.
Monochrome
Building on the original Essence Ceramica introduced in March 2025 and the distinctive Dark Matter meteorite dial that followed, Formex is back at work with a bolder take on its sports watch. Using motorsport as an inspiration, the new Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift combines new finishes for the case, colorful accents and a powerful movement. […]
Fratello
Oris revives one of its most distinctive in-house movements with the return of the ProPilot Calibre 111. More than a decade has passed since the 2015 launch of the original Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111, powered by a manually wound movement boasting an impressive 10-day power reserve. That watch followed the release of the Oris’s […] Visit The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Returns More Than A Decade After Its Introduction to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The new Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo takes inspiration from Carlo Crocco's original MDM designs that launched the brand.
SJX Watches
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo returns to Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design, when Hublot was the name of a watch made by MDM Genève. The Tributo’s 38 mm gold case restores the original 12-screw bezel, while a Zenith-derived automatic replaces quartz beneath an austere black dial. The yellow gold variant sticks close to the original design, while its white gold sibling pairs a black onyx dial with blackened bezel screws for a high-contrast monochromatic look. Initial thoughts While today Hublot is almost synonymous with the Big Bang and other large, sometimes extravagant watches, the brand’s origin as a single model made by MDM Genève is rooted in Italian elegance. The original quartz-powered model from 1980 was the first watch to pair a precious metal case with a rubber strap, a then-unheard-of configuration that was nonetheless perfectly suited to la dolce vita in the Italian sun. The Classic Fusion Tributo honours founder Carlo Crocco’s original design, complete with 12 bezel screws and a low-profile feel on the wrist, while being sized up to contemporary standards and equipped with a competent automatic movement courtesy of sister brand Zenith. The white gold version’s onyx dial, an upgrade relative to both the original and the black lacquer of the 2023 remake, is another difference that taps into the ongoing stone dial trend. But it does so in a low-key way that makes sense for the design and doesn’t feel faddish. Curiously, the yellow gold version s...
Monochrome
Hermès introduced the H08 collection in 2021 as a different take on the sporty-chic watch, first launched as a time-and-date series, then updated with a monopusher chronograph and, more recently, a skeleton model. The H08 stands out for its rounded square case, original Arabic numerals on the dial, and a mix of surfaces and materials […]
Hodinkee
What We Know There's a new miniature watch in town, and it's the Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Chain. Inspired by a 1955 Duoplan model nicknamed the "Chain" for its "braided" gold-link bracelet, the new high-jewelry watch reinterprets that design with a sculptural 18K pink-gold bangle. It features diagonal bands that alternate between black HyCeram (a high-gloss ceramic material) and rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, offering a contemporary take on the original's sinuous chain motif. The bangle is cast in a mold made specifically for each watch, with 36 cavities filled by hand with liquid HyCeram. A master gem-setter then drills and sets the alternating diagonal bands with brilliant-cut diamonds. The finished bangle frames a diminutive watch with a black lacquered dial, which has a "JL" monogram above the hour and minute hands, all surrounded by a diamond bezel—bringing its overall diamond weight to an approximate 2.73 carats. But despite all the jewelry surrounding it, the real star is the Calibre 101, the world's smallest manually wound mechanical movement. The story dates back to the Duoplan, which was invented and patented in 1925, before JLC introduced the Calibre 101 in 1929 using the same two-level architecture (hence the name "Duoplan"). At just 14mm long, 4.8mm wide, and 3.4mm thick, the movement weighs barely a gram, and remarkably, its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged nearly a century later. Today, each movement takes around 40 hours to assemble by hand, maki...
Hodinkee
What We Know The American West has long been a defining source of inspiration for Ralph Lauren. In 2018, the brand launched its Western Watch Collection to celebrate its 50th anniversary, extending Western influences to the wrist. Today, the brand is offering a fresh take on the Western Cushion model from the original collection, with the most noticeable change being its more compact, 38mm case offered in a total of three new versions. The American Western pocket watch that launched in 2018, which featured an IWC "Jones caliber" as the base. The watch first launched in 2018 with a 42mm case, among five other limited-production models, including a 50mm full hunter pocket watch. For the movements, Ralph Lauren partnered with Richemont brands Piaget and IWC, marrying Swiss-made tradition with the spirit of the Wild West. The Western Cushion 38mm retains the original design's pillowy case, crafted from hand-engraved and aged sterling silver to resemble vintage Western silverwork. The watch comes in three dial versions: black lacquer, off-white lacquer, and a natural turquoise stone. The black lacquer dial is paired with contrasting off-white numerals and a black calfskin leather strap, while the off-white version takes a slightly more traditional approach with black numerals and a brown calfskin leather strap. The turquoise dial also has black numerals and comes on a brown calfskin leather strap, although its natural stone surface gives each watch a slightly different ch...
WristBuzz
Fifteen years on, MB&F;'s most classically minded creation comes back hardened for daily wear, without losing any of its original magic.
SJX Watches
The MB&F; LM1 EVO brings back the original Legacy Machine (LM) in a smaller, sportier case, with improved shock protection, water resistance and a revised movement. Fifteen years after the LM1 established the LM collection, the EVO preserves its distinctive dual-time layout and suspended balance while making it more suited to the demands of daily wear. Initial thoughts I still remember seeing the LM1 for the first time when it launched in 2011. Up to that point, MB&F; had spent six years developing its identity around the futuristic Horological Machine (HM) collection, and the brand’s original take on traditional watchmaking came as a surprise. The LM1 established what is now the Legacy Machine collection, which began as a thought experiment about what kind of watch founder Max Büsser might have designed had he been born a century earlier. The original LM becomes the fifth MB&F; platform to get the EVO treatment, after the LM Split Escapement, LM 101, LM Perpetual, and LM Sequential (in both regular and flyback configurations). It follows the same script as its predecessors, with a polished titanium (or 18k rose gold) case, proprietary rubber strap, and the brand’s patented FlexRing shock absorber, which helps take the edge off severe impacts. The EVO case is also water resistant to 80 m thanks in part to twin screw-down crowns. Of course, it’s a manually wound movement, which means the threads will se a lot of action assuming the watch is worn regularly. Fortunately, ...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, I got a whole new appreciation for the Nomos Metro after sitting down with its creator, Mark Braun. The collection first came into the Nomos catalog back in 2014 and debuted the brand’s proprietary swing escapement system, which was developed over seven years with the Fraunhofer Institute and TU Dresden. Form was equally important to function in the original design, featuring a galvanized and silver-plated dial with a soft white color punctuated by black, red, and green markings in an arrangement that subtly played with asymmetry. Over the past 12 years, the Metro has gone on to take many other forms – some ditching the asymmetry by removing the power reserve indicator and shifting the Nomos logo to 12 o’clock and others ditching the white dial for full color alongside versions in rose gold as well as special editions for select markets. Today, we get the next evolution with the Metro Date Power Reserve Ice Blue. True to the collection’s DNA, this new incarnation offers new details both aesthetic and technical, including a brand-new mechanical caliber.With the latest addition to the Metro lineup, we see Nomos continue to use this collection as a launch point for new technical advancements. It marks the first model in the Nomos catalog to house the new hand-wound caliber DUW 4701, which offers a patented quick-set date and a power reserve of up to 52 hours. This entirely new movement continues the story of mechanical innovation that began with the...
Worn & Wound
In 2022, the inaugural TimeForArt auction took place in partnership with Phillips, marking the first and only benefit watch auction to support contemporary art and artists. In its opening year, it raised $1.2 million for the Swiss Institute’s exhibitions, public programs, education initiatives, and community engagement. Its next edition returns this December as part of The New York Watch Auction XV, now featuring a whopping 25 watch brands up from the original 17, including Zenith with a unique Defy Chronograph. For this special edition going toward a worthy cause, Zenith has once again teamed up with USM Modular Furniture. The pair first collaborated in 2025 on four ultra colorful Defy Chronograph models inspired by the timeless and playful design language of the distinctive furniture. Here, the watchmaker drew on the brand’s patented USM Haller modular system and married it with the architecture of the Defy Chronograph. For the upcoming charity auction, the duo continues to use the model as the canvas, but this time, they take a more subtle and subdued approach to the design.The foundation remains the same with the Defy Chronograph’s compact 37mm stainless-steel case, octagonal geometry, fourteen-sided bezel, and the stainless-steel “ladder” bracelet. Like we saw in the original collaboration, there are small easter eggs throughout, like the tip of the chronograph seconds hand that’s fitted with a miniature USM Haller ball joint and provides a subtle link bac...
SJX Watches
The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and an updated movement, 12 years after the original introduced chiming complications to the brand. Combining a wearable case with a clear view of the striking racks, it makes a convincing addition to the more mechanically focused side of the collection. Initial thoughts After 12 years of minute repeaters and musical wristwatches, it’s easy to take Jacob & Co.’s presence in the category for granted. Working closely with external specialists, the brand has developed an impressive portfolio of striking watches in a remarkably short time. That repertoire encompasses the decimal repeater of the Twin Turbo Furious, the three-gong carillon of the Astronomia Maestro, and the combination of a music box and minute repeater in the Opera Godfather. These different approaches to sound illustrate the breadth of the brand’s ambitions and its relationships with specialist movement makers. We recently sat down with Jacob & Co. chief executive Benjamin Arabov to discuss how smaller watches like the Palatial have helped broaden the brand’s clientele. Mr Arabov admitted that he is affectionately known by some of his staff as the “size dictator”, due to his insistence on reducing dimensions while retaining the mechanical creativity. While the brand still makes a number of extremely large watches, the increase in smaller, more wearable options has attracted a new clientele...
Fratello
One of the most common complaints in the watch community concerns current pricing. Indeed, the COVID-19 period affected the prices of luxury items. Meet Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte GmbH, or DUG, which claims to bring the traditional craftsmanship of Glashütte watchmaking without charging the traditional high prices. This is a bold claim, so let’s find out […] Visit Hands-On With The DUG Purist Typ 1 And Typ 2 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
This month Singapore will play host to A. Lange & Söhne’s Challenging Chronographs, a pop-up exhibition exploring Lange’s iconic chronograph movements and the brand’s perennial presence at the automotive world’s most elite “concours” competitions. Taking place at ION Orchard, the exhibition will take visitors through the history of the Datograph collection, from the landmark 1999 original to the Double Split and Triple Split. The event also focusses on Lange’s role as an official partner of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este on Lake Como, and related events at Hampton Court Palace and Audrain Newport, events that bestow the most coveted awards in the world of vintage automobiles. The Triple Split in platinum A master watchmaker and a master engraver from Glashütte will be on hand throughout the event to provide insight into the assembly of the brand’s famed chronographs, and demonstrate the process of freehand engraving a balance cock, respectively. This unique 1815 Chronograph was awarded to the winner of the 2022 Concorso d’Eleganza at Villa d’Este Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid (left) with the best-in-show winner at the Concours of Elegance 2023 Open from 10:00 am-9:00 pm each day, guided tours and demonstrations are available by appointment, though limited slots will be available so early registration is encouraged. Challenging Chronographs will be hosted from October 18-30 at the ION Orchard, Level 1 Atrium at 2 Orchard Turn, Singapore 238801. Re...
Fratello
Australian strap specialist Artem revisits a familiar formula with the latest evolution of its HydroFlex collection. The original HydroFlex straps debuted in 2024, pairing FKM rubber with traditional tang or pin buckles. The goal was simple — deliver the comfort and flexibility of rubber while retaining much of the visual appeal that made Artem’s sailcloth […] Visit Artem Revisits A Favorite With The New V2 Classic HydroFlex Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
With a multitude of new brands entering the market every year, it is difficult to stand out. Founded by Thibault Luc and Bruno Herbet, Voxel has chosen to do just that with its debut watch. The Meridian VX01-E sets itself apart with a singular design and, above all, an original self-developed jumping complication that allows […]
Monochrome
Bearing the name of one of the founding fathers of 19th-century German watchmaking, Moritz Grossmann is today an independent high-end Glashütte watch manufacture producing low-volume, hand-finished pieces. Marking the bicentennial of the founder’s birth, Moritz Grossmann presents two more contemporary, dark-themed versions of the elegant Benu Power Reserve. The Benu was the first watch to […]
Fratello
During last year’s annual Nomos Forum, the brand from Glashütte presented the limited Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Nighttime Navigation series. The three references featured sunburst black dials with colorful accents. For this year’s Forum, Nomos keeps the lights down and presents the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Dark. This time, the popular Worldtimer features a black […] Visit Make Sure To Wear Your Sunglasses At Night For The New Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Dark to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know The 2025 revival of the Louis Vuitton Monterey was a curious moment for the brand. Certainly influenced by a recent surge in popularity for the original LV I and LV II watches among celebrities and vintage collectors, it was a small(ish) 188-piece run (priced at $60,000) meant to show the brand was paying attention to what was happening around it. While the original LV I was a quartz watch with several complications, the brand simplified the aesthetics with the revival—gone were the complications and the distinctive, busy dial with all of its markings, as the new Monterey was time-only with a mechanical movement. But that Monterey also demonstrated the craft of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, introducing a simpler dial in grand feu enamel. While it may have seemed like a small blip in the brand's overall plans, Louis Vuitton has more to say about the pebble-like designs from 1988 by Italian architect Gae Aulenti—the Monterey Ceramic, a duo of watches that focuses on the smaller LV II. Now, the Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramics are not part of a limited edition and officially enter the brand's permanent collection. The cases are faithful to the original, preserving the model's smaller 37mm case size and both original ceramic colors: green and black. The polished, pebble-shaped case is slightly thicker at 11mm, however, because it houses the automatic LFTMA01.02 caliber rather than the original quartz movement. Like last year's Monterey, the Monterey Ceram...
Fratello
I first handled the original Atelier Wen Inflection last year. Its full-tantalum construction was impressive due to the difficulty of working with the material. Plus, the weight was memorable. Last month, the brand announced a collaboration with Massena Lab and introduced the new Inflection Shuò. It builds on the original’s already substantial foundation and adds […] Visit Taking The The Atelier Wen × Massena Lab Inflection Shuò For A Spin to read the full article.
Fratello
Orient reinterprets its heritage in integrated-bracelet sports watches with the new Flusso collection. Drawing inspiration from the SK (“Super King”) models that appeared in the brand’s catalog during the 1970s and ’80s, the Flusso modernizes the formula for a contemporary audience. Four recessed accents in the corners of the case reference the original SK’s protruding […] Visit Fashionably Late To The Party: Introducing The Orient Flusso Collection to read the full article.
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