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Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5935A World Time Dec 5, 2022

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph

While much of the buzz around Patek Philippe’s recent launches has been centred on the Nautilus ref. 5811/1G in white gold, the year has been mostly about other than the Nautilus and Aquanaut. Amongst the most notable new launches for 2022 is the World Time Flyback Chronograph ref. 5935A-001. Continuing with Patek Philippe’s development of steel watches beyond its traditional sports models, the ref. 5935A is a striking new take on a model that made its debut in 2016. Previously available only in precious metals (namely white gold or platinum), the ref. 5935A is the first of the model in stainless steel – and one of the brand’s few complicated watches in the metal. And the ref. 5935A is larger in diameter than its predecessor, but its most eye-catching feature is the dial in “rose-gilt opaline” (or “salmon” if you wish). Initial thoughts A World Time in steel is a big deal because the world time is arguably an iconic watch for Patek Philippe. Select vintage examples are amongst the handful of Patek Philippe references that can sell for high-seven or even eight figures. Granted the ref. 5935A adds a chronograph into the mix, but it is still modern take on a signature complication. The ref. 5935A retains the familiar Louis Cottier-type world time display that’s almost synonymous with Patek Philippe, but with contemporary materials and colours. And at 41 mm it is also larger than usual for a Patek Philippe complication, giving it something of a sporty feel...

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY023 GS9 Club USA Limited Edition is yet another GS we wish was standard production Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGY023 GS9 Club USA Dec 2, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY023 GS9 Club USA Limited Edition is yet another GS we wish was standard production

I know many of us jest at the frequency with which Grand Seiko releases limited editions. To be fair, plenty of other brands are guilty of repeated limited-edition novelty debuts. But, on the other side of the coin, how can we fault them? We often see people go crazy for limited editions, especially Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY023 GS9 Club USA Limited Edition is yet another GS we wish was standard production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We launch our 4th limited edition, plus a new season of About Effing Time! Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen x seconde/seconde/ x Time+Tide Dec 2, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We launch our 4th limited edition, plus a new season of About Effing Time!

This week, we’ve had a lot of excitement at our end. We just launched our fourth limited-edition collaboration watch, the Nivada Grenchen x seconde/seconde/ x Time+Tide ChaosMaster Series, while the highly anticipated new season of About Effing Time premieres this weekend. The Nivada Grenchen x seconde/seconde/ x Time+Tide ChaosMaster Series really embodies what we are … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We launch our 4th limited edition, plus a new season of About Effing Time! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Enough Birch: The Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there is far more dial-ground to cover in Evolution 9 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there Nov 14, 2022

Enough Birch: The Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there is far more dial-ground to cover in Evolution 9

Evolution 9 was born to usher in a new era and tier of Grand Seiko watchmaking. It brought forth their most faceted case yet, with the most alternating hairline-brushed and Zaratsu distortion-free, mirror-polished surfaces. There were broader and sportier hands and indices, plus notably next-gen movements like the high-beat 9SA5 calibre. But while we have … ContinuedThe post Enough Birch: The Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there is far more dial-ground to cover in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 17, 2022

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...

In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 13, 2022

In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

The first complicated mechanical watch from the brand in its six decades years of history, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 is an impressive example of high horology. The Kodo is self-explanatory: it is equipped with a highly skeletonised and sensitively finished movement boasting a one-second remontoir and tourbillon, both mounted on the same axis. The Kodo is an interesting watch in all respects, tangible and intangible, making it worth a detailed examination – exactly the focus of this two-part series. In this first instalment, we explain the development and conception of the Kodo, as well as the decoration of its movement. In the second part that will be published subsequently, we detail how the movement works and analyse how it compares to the competition. A surprise Evolved from the T0 concept movement unveiled just two years ago, the Kodo is undoubtedly a milestone – and a major step upwards – for the Japanese watchmaker that’s historically been focused on simple but high-quality everyday watches. Like conventional Grand Seiko (GS) watches, the Kodo is all about high-quality timekeeping, but it is far from simple. An example of a typical Grand Seiko, which is strikingly different from the Kodo, yet not so different in terms of philosophy Well known for its quest for high precision – amongst its earliest timepieces were observatory-tested chronometers – GS has done much research and development in the cutting-edge timekeeping techn...

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft Oct 10, 2022

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes

The iconic French fashion house Louis Vuitton may not have any claim to a watch worn on the moon, but that didn’t stop them from releasing a cosmic phenomenon in the Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft. Unlike the drum-shaped Tambour watches which tend to be a little sportier, the Escale collection aims to evoke … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Grand Seiko make a compelling case for a one-watch collection with their new quartz GMTs Time+Tide
Grand Seiko make Oct 5, 2022

VIDEO: Grand Seiko make a compelling case for a one-watch collection with their new quartz GMTs

You may have your own opinion about quartz watches, but Grand Seiko has certainly elevated the movement technology to a whole different level. And their new 9F-powered GMT models make a compelling case for half of a two-watch collection, or even a one-watch collection, depending on your needs. A quartz GMT certainly fits the bill … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko make a compelling case for a one-watch collection with their new quartz GMTs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Grand Seiko Inaugurates Asia-Pacific Arm SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Inaugurates Asia-Pacific Arm Having Sep 14, 2022

Business News: Grand Seiko Inaugurates Asia-Pacific Arm

Having enjoyed several years of double-digit growth in its biggest markets outside of Japan, Grand Seiko is continuing to hone a marketing and distribution strategy inspired by its Swiss peers. One of the key planks of its brand development has been to vertically integrate its sales channels, with Asia being the latest to join the mothership. Headquartered in Singapore, Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific is a newly established entity that will take charge of sales and marketing of the brand in the region. Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific becomes the company’s third regional subsidiary, after those covering Americas and Europe, both amongst the brand’s most important markets outside of Japan. The Grand Seiko boutique in Place Vendome, Paris The Asia-Pacific division of Grand Seiko no doubt develop the brand along similar lines as its counterparts in Europe and the United States. The senior managers in both the Americas and Europe are Omega alumni, with the head of the American operations also being the brand’s Global Strategy Officer. Unsurprisingly, Grand Seiko has embarked on a game plan centred on brand boutiques in upscale locations as well as limited edition models, mirroring the familiar approach utilised by many of its Swiss rivals. The newly-established Asia-Pacific operation is a joint venture between Seiko Watch Corporation and Thong Sia, the Hong Kong-based company that was the longtime Asian distributor for Grand Seiko (as well as other Seiko brands). It is chaired by Ak...

The new Grand Seiko SLGH013 means the 9SA5 x 44GS case combo has arrived in standard production Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH013 means Sep 7, 2022

The new Grand Seiko SLGH013 means the 9SA5 x 44GS case combo has arrived in standard production

Don’t get me wrong. The Evolution 9 case geometry has a stellar aesthetic. But when we first saw Grand Seiko’s innovative and beautiful 9SA5 hi-beat calibre in a case other than the Evolution 9 case, the classic and iconic 44GS case it was found in for their limited edition SLGH009, I immediately knew I wanted … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko SLGH013 means the 9SA5 x 44GS case combo has arrived in standard production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Aug 9, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection

The ability to display two time zones on a single dial has cropped up quite a lot over the course of history, but it was rarely more than a niche curiosity before the advent of flying. Now, the idea of a pilot’s watch without a GMT complication feels somewhat incomplete, and that’s why the new … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko Thailand makes the world green with envy, British survey reveals why people truly wear watches Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Thailand makes Aug 5, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko Thailand makes the world green with envy, British survey reveals why people truly wear watches

Welcome to the Friday Wind Down. Let’s dig into some of the horological headlines of the week! Grand Seiko regional limited editions cause some of the greatest amount of FOMO in the collecting community, often producing really striking and distinct creations that people want but, due to the region they live in, cannot buy. The … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko Thailand makes the world green with envy, British survey reveals why people truly wear watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Jul 11, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified

Hublot has always been known for pushing the envelope of material use in their latest releases. Contrary to that regular scheduling, LVMH Watch Week 2022 saw the release of the Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only. While certainly a more simplified take on a classic Hublot recipe, the Integrated Time Only (a change from the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000 Time+Tide
Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style Jun 18, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000

Here’s something I didn’t see coming: an entry-level automatic GMT watch from Seiko has just dropped, and it’s packing some serious GMT-Master vibes. The three colourways remind me of the modding community from the SKX message boards back in the day, where home tinkerers would modify their Seiko divers with aftermarket two-tone bezel inserts and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the 44GS 55th Anniversary Specially-Adjusted 9F Quartz SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jun 14, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the 44GS 55th Anniversary Specially-Adjusted 9F Quartz

Long a leading player in the arena of high-end quartz watches, Grand Seiko’s flagship offering is the 9F quartz movement that is built with an attention to detail comparable to that of its mechanical calibres. Beyond the almost-artisanal production, 9F movements are all about accuracy – the standard movements are rated to within 10 seconds a year. Now Grand Seiko a limited edition equipped with a specially-adjusted 9F calibre, the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary SBGP017 “Blue Clouds”. Signified by the star emblem on the dial, the movement within is regulated to run within five seconds a year – an average of less than a half second deviation a month. Initial thoughts Watches with colourful, textured dials are almost the norm at Grand Seiko, which has rolled out enough limited editions that such watches seem almost more common than their plain dial counterparts. The SBGP017 dial has a familiar texture, so at first glance it seems like yet another Grand Seiko limited edition. But a closer look reveals the fact that the SBGP017 is unusual. For one, it’s quartz. Grand Seiko quartz watches rarely have patterned dials and when they do, the dials typically have motifs made up of repeating symbols. In contrast, the abstract pattern found on the SBGP017 is similar to that found on Grand Seiko’s mechanical and Spring Drive models. Put another way, the SBGP017 is an atypical Grand Seiko limited edition because it’s quartz but has the aesthetic of a me...

INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon Jun 12, 2022

INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon

With hair neatly parted and pocket square cheekily stuffed into his breast pocket, Takuma Kawauchiya doesn’t look like a former guitarist in a rock band that once toured around the world. But music’s loss has been the watch world’s gain in a very big way. The Grand Seiko R&D; engineer and watchmaker is responsible for the T0 Constant … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time Deployant
Longines Spirit Zulu Time DEPLOYANT Jun 11, 2022

Review: the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time

The GMT function is likely the most useful complication on mechanical timepieces, right after the date. While some may say the perpetual calendar is useful too, the effort to keep it running all the time or adjusting the date everytime to keep it updated is too much of a hassle. Chronographs on the other hand are not useful either for day to day tasks. The GMT however, is has many modern corporate slave applications, especially for those who travel or work with teams in different timezones. It is also the best multi timezone configuration that does not throw errors like the world timer, which becomes erroneous under daylight saving cycles and are also particularly hard to read.