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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Jan 13, 2023

The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open

An annual award that seeks to recognise and support promising watchmakers, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is open for submissions until February 1, 2023. The entry criteria is straightforward: watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from any country who have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”, but professional qualifications or training are not necessary. The prize is a CHF20,000 grant meant to finance tools or a watchmaking project. The contest will be judged by a panel including Francois-Paul Journe himself and Giulio Papi, who will select the winner based on originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on Fpjourne.com from now until February 1, 2023.  

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Hublot TAG Heuer Jan 13, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari

While it may only be the second week of the new year, we already, in this past week alone, have a ton of new novelties to explore. Much of this can be attributed to LVMH Watch Week, that just wrapped up in Singapore, but Grand Seiko also threw their hat in the ring as well. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Why the Grand Seiko “Snowflake” captivated the watch world Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Snowflake” captivated Jan 12, 2023

Why the Grand Seiko “Snowflake” captivated the watch world

What’s cooler than being cool? Well, if you’re Outkast, the answer is “ice cold!” (alright, alright, alright), but if you’re a watch collector, there’s a good chance the answer is the Grand Seiko ‘Snowflake’. When first introduced, watch fans were dazzled by the ultra-fine finishing of the titanium case, wowed by the technological prowess of … ContinuedThe post Why the Grand Seiko “Snowflake” captivated the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings Jan 12, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop

LVMH Watch Week is back, and Zenith is bringing out the big guns to kick off 2023. And one of the biggest and boldest has to be the new limited-to-50 Defy Extreme Glacier chrono, a technological tour-de-force in a striking package that incorporates a unique material. The 45mm titanium case still retains the angular, architectural … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? Also, a Ceramic Big Bang with a Rhino on the Dial Worn & Wound
Hublot Asks Why Settle Jan 12, 2023

Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? Also, a Ceramic Big Bang with a Rhino on the Dial

Yesterday, Blake took you through all the details of Hublot’s latest reinterpretation of their Classic Fusion with the updated Classic Fusion Original. For the Hublot historians out there (are you out there?), this was surely a welcome sight, as it calls back to the earliest days of the brand when a luxury watch on a rubber strap was a truly transgressive idea. We’ve come a long way since then, and so has Hublot. The brand has had ups and downs with the watch community (to the say the least), but in recent years they’ve leaned into experimentation with materials (especially colored ceramics and sapphire) that have gotten the attention of open minded and adventurous collectors and enthusiasts, while making watches like the Classic Fusion Original feel almost sleepy by comparison (sorry, Classic Fusion Original). Hublot’s latest envelope pushing novelties are insane in the way only modern Hublot can pull off, and while they likely won’t find a home in the watch box of any Worn & Wound staffers anytime soon, they’re too crazy not to share.  First up, a watch in the same vein as my beloved Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This tennis ball colored, translucent tourbillon uses the same HUB6035 automatic tourbillon movement as the purple version released last year, and fills out the same enormous 44mm Big Bang form factor, but uses a slightly different synthetic sapphire material in the case construct...

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5 Times a Watch Surprised Me After the Fact Worn & Wound
IWC Tribute Jan 11, 2023

5 Times a Watch Surprised Me After the Fact

Watches can be tricky things to judge without getting some real world wrist time. Details like their scale or finishing details can be lost in even the best of images, and that’s to say nothing of more intangible things, like their heft or the way the bracelet wraps around your wrist. Try as we might, we still sometimes end up writing a watch off, or worse still, prematurely lauding it, before allowing enough hands-on time to appropriately confront our biases. These watches have a way of coming back to us, and like many things in life, a way of surprising us after the fact. With each example, we hope to learn a bit more about our blind spots, and take a bit more pause when scouting the landscape ahead.  These are some examples of watches that surprised me after their initial launch, and what I learned from the experience. Jump into the comments below to share your thoughts and experiences. The IWC Tribute to 3705: Learning to Ignore the Numbers IWC has ridden their Pilot and Big Pilot ranges heavily in recent years, and while I enjoy the aesthetic of these watches, I’ve never been fond of the on-wrist experience with any of them. When I first saw the Tribute to 3705, I was quick to dismiss it based on some of the numbers, predominantly the thickness measurement north of 15mm. But then I got my hands on one, and it was the watch that triggered a reassessment of how I think about the numbers around watches. I even wrote an article implying you to do the same. The Tribut...

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The three watches Borna wore most in 2022 – Tudor, Credor, Seiko Time+Tide
Tudor Credor Seiko Looking back Jan 11, 2023

The three watches Borna wore most in 2022 – Tudor, Credor, Seiko

Looking back at my last year in watches – I notice a significant trend. None of the resolutions I set for myself on New Year’s Eve 2021 came to be, as, for the most part, I stomped the line between unexpected and impulsive. Five new watches became part of my collection during the year, only … ContinuedThe post The three watches Borna wore most in 2022 – Tudor, Credor, Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: Oris debut new in-house manually wound movement with the Big Crown Calibre 473 Time+Tide
Oris debut new in-house manually Jan 10, 2023

INTRODUCING: Oris debut new in-house manually wound movement with the Big Crown Calibre 473

Oris debut new in-house manually wound calibre 473 in the new Oris Big Crown Calibre 473. Despite being manually wound, it is 0.5mm THICKER than the previous automatic model due to new power reserve indicator on the movement. The release also heralds Oris’ first-ever butterfly clasp with fine adjustment mechanism. Introducing: The Oris Big Crown … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris debut new in-house manually wound movement with the Big Crown Calibre 473 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 10, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325

When Grand Seiko (GS) made its return in 1998, the inaugural SBGR001 model was powered by the 9S55, the first modern-day GS calibre. Now the brand is marking the 25th anniversary of the 9S movement family with a pair of limited editions. The Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH311 and the Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGR325. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 has a patterned dial, while the more affordable SBGR325 has a dial with a brushed finish. Both are modelled on the original model of 1998 and sport the same 37 mm case. SBGH311 (left) and SBGR325 Initial thoughts With their 37 mm cases and clean styling, the new 9S pair hark back to the GS watches made from the late 1990s to mid 2000s. That is unsurprising since they are meant to commemorate the first model with the 9S movement, which made its debut in 1998. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 does have a fancier pattern dial, but one that is relatively subtle in its shades-of-grey texture. As a result, they will appeal to anyone who wants a smaller, simpler GS watch. Another upside of the relatively simpler execution are the prices, which place the pair amongst the most affordable self-winding GS watches. The SBGH311 is US$6,600 and the SBGR325 about 20% less. SBGR325 Old-school size The SBGH311 has a textured dial in silvery grey inspired by clouds that’s matched with a blued-steel seconds hand. And the “GS” emblem is gilded in a nod to the fact that this is an anniversary edition. Not...

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The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right Time+Tide
Hamilton Murph Jan 10, 2023

The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right

As both a watch buff and a film buff, I love it when those two worlds collide. When we see a watch on screen, it’s usually a brief glimpse, scarcely enough time to make out the model, but sometimes, said timepiece actually becomes central to the plot. The James Bond ouvre is the prime example … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Ruminations on my Rolex GMT journey that took me from Batman to Root Beer with a few diversions along the way Time+Tide
Rolex GMT journey Jan 9, 2023

Ruminations on my Rolex GMT journey that took me from Batman to Root Beer with a few diversions along the way

Back in 2014, I wrote my first article for Time & Tide. It was a review of the Rolex GMT Master II, reference 116710BLNR which unfortunately came to be well known as the “Batman GMT”. This nickname is all well and good, except I don’t like Batman. You’d be forgiven for wondering why anyone named … ContinuedThe post Ruminations on my Rolex GMT journey that took me from Batman to Root Beer with a few diversions along the way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions Time+Tide
Jan 9, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions

As business ventures, microbrands can sometimes seem a little bit soulless. All it takes is one person with some starting capital and a catalogue of parts to put together an attractive watch that offers good value for money, but that formula is becoming harder and harder to replicate for watch enthusiasts whose collections are beginning … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic Time+Tide
Blancpain s Fifty Fathoms It’s Jan 8, 2023

The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic

In a space where so much history has gone before, it’s nigh impossible to create a timepiece that’s totally unique. For example, just about any dive watch you can name shares at least some DNA with the Rolex Submariner or Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms. It’s called classic rock for a reason, and for every Omega Speedmaster, … ContinuedThe post The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Skiing is believing: Why a growing number of watch brands are hitting the slopes Time+Tide
Jan 7, 2023

Skiing is believing: Why a growing number of watch brands are hitting the slopes

Whether it’s golf, sailing, motor-racing or tennis, luxury watch brands love associating themselves with “premium sports” that reinforce their lofty image. And by “premium sports”, we’re talking about those traditionally reserved for people with deep pockets and country club memberships. That’s why it’s no surprise – particularly given their mountainous country of origin – that … ContinuedThe post Skiing is believing: Why a growing number of watch brands are hitting the slopes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection Time+Tide
Casio n they release Jan 7, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection

Meistersinger may be renowned for their single-handed watches, but there is the extremely rare occasion they release a watch that has two. Of course, it would be silly to assume that means you get a traditional hour and minute hand, as the Meistersinger Primatic instead gives you their emblematic mono-hand as well as a power … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Jan 6, 2023

The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith

This past year was quite a journey for my collection, with new additions and trades – as I am known for every now and again. While I have been bad about it the last few months, with consecutive new watch addition honeymoon periods, typically I try to avoid wearing the same watch two days in … ContinuedThe post The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun Time+Tide
Franck Muller Jan 6, 2023

The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun

It goes likes this: 8, 1, 6, 11, 4, 9, 2, 7, 12, 5, 10, 3. No, this isn’t some Fibonacci-like mathematical sequence, the combination to a very complicated electronic safe, or even a code for sending secret military messages via a cipher machine. It’s the order of numerals on the Art Deco dial of … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022 Time+Tide
Frederique Constant releases Jan 5, 2023

The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022

Last year saw many brands reinvent themselves, create completely new collections, or try to grab hold of the latest hype train for dear life. Yet some brands doubled down on their sensibilities and reminded us what it is they stand for. One of those being Frederique Constant, who continue to grow as a company on … ContinuedThe post The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Bremont MBIII is a pilot’s watch with one hell of a backstory Time+Tide
Bremont MBIII Jan 5, 2023

The Bremont MBIII is a pilot’s watch with one hell of a backstory

Stories. All my favourite watches in my collection have one. More than how much you paid for something, or who you know at an authorised dealer, they’re the most interesting part of watch collecting. The one from your significant other. Your grandfather’s. The one that never left your wrist on that cross-country trip, even when … ContinuedThe post The Bremont MBIII is a pilot’s watch with one hell of a backstory appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: Inside the Omega Speedmaster ’57’s sandwich dial Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57’s sandwich dial Jan 4, 2023

VIDEO: Inside the Omega Speedmaster ’57’s sandwich dial

Sandwich dials have always commanded a sense of mystery and luxury, with very few brands dipping their toes into the genre despite its popularity. Omega surprised many with its release of a second generation for the Omega Speedmaster ’57 in 2022, now featuring a sandwich dial construction against any semblance of vintage accuracy. Whether or … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Inside the Omega Speedmaster ’57’s sandwich dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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