Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Ressence Type 3 EE In 'Eucalyptus' Green
The new eucalyptus color looks pretty tasty, just keep it away from any koalas.
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Time+Tide
The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package
For Geneva Watch Days 2023, Alpina has released two regular -production tribute versions of the tank-style Alpiner The Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years offers vintage looks with modern appointments Two dial variants are available: two-tone silver (US and international), and black (international only) For Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is looking back with the release … ContinuedThe post The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Sport Auto 40, a Personal Take on the Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch
There are all kinds of watches that are tied to motorsports. Horology and racing are inextricably linked, and while the Venn Diagram of people who are into watches and into various aspects of car culture and auto racing isn’t exactly a circle, it’s honestly probably not far off. But when it comes to watches that are inspired by motorsport in one way or another, we find varying levels of refinement and authenticity in the products that make it to boutique shelves. It’s easy enough to slap a logo of a car manufacturer on a dial or make a caseback calling attention to a particular race, but it’s more challenging to draw a real connection between these two worlds, even as they’re so closely linked. One of the things that make the watches made by Laurent Ferrier so interesting is that the connection feels real, a natural result of the history of the team that founded the brand. Before he was a world renowned watchmaker, Laurent Ferrier and his partner Francois Servanin were (very accomplished) amateur racers, and the new version of the Sport Auto celebrates that history. For watch fans who might not be familiar with Laurent Ferrier’s personal history prior to the founding of his eponymous brand, he did indeed make something of a name for himself in the automotive world at the 24 Hours of Le Mans race in 1979. Ferrier and his teammates (including Servanin and Francois Trisconi) placed third in that race out of 60, a surprising result for a group of non-professional...
SJX Watches
H. Moser and MB&F; Team Up for the Streamliner Pandamonium
For their joint contribution to this November’s Only Watch charity auction, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F; have released the Streamliner Pandamonium. Made up of a Moser Streamliner case, fume dial, and minute repeating movement, the Pandamonium gets the MB&F; exposed, oversized balance wheel construction along with a panda DJ miniature sculpture. Initial thoughts These two brands are not strangers to each other, having collaborated many times before, this joint effort however, seems to be much more Moser than MB&F;, given this is essentially a Streamliner with a hint of MB&F;. Though it is an appealing watch if you like the Streamliner design, I expected the whole to be greater than the sum of the parts with such creative companies combining their powers. While the panda figure looms large in the marketing for this watch, in reality, it is easy to miss on the dial since it just under the flying balance wheel. MB&F; has employed a tiny sculpture as a power reserve indicator in the past, but here the panda is no more than a nice piece of miniature art. It would have been great if there was more of a mechanical aspect to this character, which would have transformed it into a modern take on old-school automaton repeaters – which is not too much of a stretch given the price tag. This watch is undoubtedly whimsical, but it has credible horological backing. The estimate of CHF300,000-400,000 is entirely expected for a minute repeater, and will likely be surpassed, albeit not by mult...
Time+Tide
The new Citizen Black Washi Paper Dial maximises aesthetics and function
The new Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial is limited to 350 pieces It sports a 100m water-resistant Duratect Gold Super Titanium case that’s more than five times harder than standard steel Black washi paper dials are sprinkled with gold leaf through Sunago-maki – no two are the same When I personally define the characteristics … ContinuedThe post The new Citizen Black Washi Paper Dial maximises aesthetics and function appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Christian Wants To Buy The World's Ugliest Rolex Daytona.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: The Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena LAB
Massena LAB takes another big step this week with the introduction of a new collaboration with independent watchmaker, Sylvain Pinaud. The watch, a monopusher chronograph, is immensely impressive, shifting expectations around the collaborative space as a whole. We had the chance to meet Sylvain Pinaud in Geneva during Watches & Wonders 2022 at a space dedicated to the AHCI (The Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants), where his Origine watch made one of the strongest impressions of the entire week. The watch would go on to nab a GPHG award for Horological Revelation later that year. If you weren’t familiar with that watch, this latest effort should place him firmly on your radar. This project, done in collaboration with Massena LAB, uses Pinaud’s existing Monopoussoir Chronograph movement, and places it into a new platform with a slightly more classically designed 42mm titanium case. That case is how the collaboration began, with the new design coming at the request of William Massena himself. The process resulted in enough interest to create a limited run of 10 pieces. The watch itself makes an immediate impression, with an open dial revealing the beautifully finished chronograph works below. The movement, crafted by Pinaud, is hand wound, and features an integrated column wheel and horizontal clutch, which can be started, stopped, and rest all via the single button nestled discreetly within the crown at 3 o’clock. Turning the watch on its side reveals an...
Hodinkee
Business News: Finalists For The 2023 GPHG Awards Announced
Final nominations for the watch industry's biggest awards show have been revealed – here they are, along with our quick takes on the selections.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: The Eucalyptus Green Ressence Type 3 EE
The Ressence Type 3 collection welcomes a new member this week with the introduction of the serene Type 3 EE. The brand continues to work in subtle and interesting green hues, following up on the sage Type 8S (reviewed here) with this rich eucalyptus green dial. It’s a slightly unconventional execution within the more dramatic Type 3 collection, which we’ve only seen rendered in black and soft white up to this point. In person, the green is a perfect companion to the Type 3’s primary accent colors and rotating dial sets. Given the case it’s set within, that green is given an oil filled canvas for maximum impact. The Type 3 is one of two oil filled Ressence watches, along with the “world-proof” dive watch, the Type 5. The effect is remarkable in person, and one that I’ve always found core to the Ressence experience. The Type 3 EE features the eucalyptus green on both the font and back panel of the watch (hence the EE), and comes through brilliantly, as though it were painted directly on the crystal, thanks to the oil filled dial. The color is subtle but rich, somehow, and the colors used for the various displays have been desaturated enough to hit the same value scale as the green itself, so as not to create a distracting level of contrast. The Type 3 is on the maximalist side of Ressence, boasting the oil temperature gauge, a dial for the day of the week, and the date itself, on top of the hours, minutes, and seconds, of course. It all leads to a rather dra...
Time+Tide
The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet Makes Itself Heard with the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes
The unveiling of a new minute repeater by a maker with Breguet’s pedigree should not be taken lightly. The brand has just unveiled the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes, only the third repeating wristwatch in its catalogue after the Classique 5447 and the heavily jewelled Classique 7639. But with the new 7637, Breguet is focusing on minimalist elegance with a grand feu enamel dial in the most classical of styles. Initial thoughts Leaf through Breguet’s catalogue and it is clear that the Classique collection is the best testament to the heritage left behind by arguably the greatest watchmaker in history. The Classique 7637 Répétion Minutes exemplifies the masterfully executed timepieces that continue this legacy. All the main features of what makes this a Breguet are present to be appreciated by a discerning eye. The enamel dial with Breguet numerals and a “secret” signature, masterfully executed Breguet hands, a fluted case band – all reminders of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s legacy. Notably, the movement inside is a legacy movement of sorts as well. The cal. 567.2 inside is descended from a Lemania movement conceived in the 1990s, explaining its classical architecture that suits the style of the watch. But like all Breguet movements, it has been upgraded, most interestingly with solid-gold gongs. At 42 mm, the rose gold case exceeds the classical dimensions that most makers abide by today, but the case has a 12.25 mm height that maintains elegant proportions...
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Jean-Claude Biver On The James Bond Partnership, Hublot And Hip-Hop, And Starting The Biver Brand
Time+Tide
The Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture is a sign of a brand going upmarket
The Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture combines elegant style with mechanical wow factor It’s highly accessible in design, referencing classic mid-century styles The FC-735 is Frederique Constant’s 31st in-house movement, signalling their intent to continue driving their brand upmarket Sometimes the little things in life are worth celebrating, and for Frederique Constant, … ContinuedThe post The Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture is a sign of a brand going upmarket appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Oris Goes Deeper than Ever with the All New AquisPro 4000m
The recent history of dive watches is all about going deeper and deeper beneath the ocean’s surface. Recent releases (and major technological advancements) from Rolex and Omega underscore the continuing interest on the part of brands, collectors, and, we assume, pro divers in maximizing depth ratings, whether for practical purposes or bragging rights. The watches that come out of the research and development around extreme depth resistance have a certain appeal even if you don’t have a particular desire to even get them wet – they are technological marvels, and often compelling design objects with an offbeat aesthetic appeal. Now, Oris is getting in on the act, with a new member of the Aquis family that goes deeper than any before it, the AquisPro 4000m. The headline here is right in the name of the watch: this is an Aquis that is rated to an impressive 4,000 meters of water resistance. While not as robust as Omega’s Ultra Deep which is rated to 6,000 meters, or the truly incomprehensible Deepsea Challenge diver by Rolex that goes to 11,000 meters, this Aquis handily beats other divers in the Aquis family, which are typically rated to 300 meters. It does so with an oversized, multi piece titanium case measuring 49.5mm in diameter and a little over 23mm thick. I don’t know if there’s an obscure Swiss law that says any dive watch rated over a certain depth rating needs to have some kind of ocean themed dial design, but we get one with the AquisPro 4000m in the ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique For Only Watch
The lauded independent watchmaker brings a striking new movement to a stainless steel case for this year's charity auction – and likely beyond.
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and The Horophile Collaborate on a Sleek Art Deco Inspired Limited Edition
If you had told me a few weeks ago that Louis Erard’s new collaboration with Amr Sindi, AKA, The Horophile, would be an Art Deco inspired watch with a quite literal approximation of the Empire State Building within the handset, I probably would have let out an audible groan. Not because I don’t have faith in Louis Erard (their run of limited editions over the past few years is basically a parade of nonstop hits) or The Horophile (whose Instagram feed reveals his exceptional taste), but because it just all seems so on-the-nose. Art Deco inspired designs are a pretty niche interest in 2023, but calling out the Empire State Building, perhaps the single most well known symbol of the design and architecture movement as a major point of reference, seems to me like a recipe for something that you’d find in the building’s gift shop. Well, I should have known better. Because the new watch from Louis Erard is beautifully subtle, and surprisingly modern in its sensibility. The Petite Seconde Metropolis incorporates a number of Art Deco hallmarks into a clean design that takes advantage of a Louis Erard platform that we’re starting to see used more frequently. As you might expect given the Art Deco themes, there was a large focus on the typeface used for the hours around the dial’s perimeter. Each numeral is very subtly “openworked,” and they’re presented in an uncommon circular fashion, which mimics the circular motif at the dial’s center. Importantly, these hou...
Worn & Wound
Bravur Releases the La Vuelta III, the Third and Final Leg in their 2023 Grand Tour Series
This past weekend, the cycling world turned its attention to Spain for the start of the Vuelta a España. One the most prestigious Grand Tours, the Vuelta takes riders through the Pyrenees as they race towards Madrid over the course of 23 days. At the end of the race, which consists of 21 day-long stages, the rider with the lowest aggregate time is crowned the winner and wears the famous red jersey. While the watch world is often linked to motorsports, we have seen meaningful partnerships with cycling as of late. To commemorate the start of this year’s Vuelta, Sweden-based Bravur Watches has released its third and final addition to the Grand Tour chronograph series, the La Vuelta III. Housed in a 38.2mm (46.3mm lug-to-lug) PVD-coated stainless steel case, the new Vuelta III really leans into using red accents to both pay homage to the Vuelta lead jersey and establish a distinct aesthetic. The subdials – seconds at nine, hours at six, and minutes at three o-clock – are framed in red and recessed in a lower layer, as is the triangle at twelve o-clock (which Bravur says represents the flag at 1 km remaining). In another nod to cycling, the red band around the edge of the dial is subtly textured to resemble racing tires. Inside beats the Sellita SW511, an automatic chronograph movement that features Côte de Genéve and perlé decoration, rhodium plating, and heated blue screws. Owners can full-send on the red theme by pairing the watch with a red rubber strap or pare ...
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This Integrated Bracelet Dress Watch Has the Water Resistance of a Dive Watch?
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Automotive-Inspired Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40
Laurent Ferrier and team are bringing the '70s back, with a touch of Porsche and Le Mans history.
Time+Tide
The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry is the ultimate tribute to silicon
Ulysse Nardin do not always get the credit they are due as a watch manufacture. I bet most of you watching this video were not aware that Ulysse Nardin is an independently owned, vertically integrated manufacture – among the rare few who are able to build their watches fully in house. While certainly versed in … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry is the ultimate tribute to silicon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is a mean-looking diver with a plenty of street cred
Editor’s note: Since publishing this article, Doxa has announced an update to the SUB 300β Sharkhunter as a result of community feedback. The watch will now be offered in both date and no-date variants, with a rectangular marker replacing the date window in the latter. The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter explores a streetwear aesthetic in … ContinuedThe post The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is a mean-looking diver with a plenty of street cred appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
New MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold Blue Moon gets the Neptune treatment
The new MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold Blue Moon is the first with a gold-plated hand outside of the gray “Moon” case The blue Neptune case has been used to honour the upcoming August 30 blue moon It will be available at a select list of retailers worldwide on August 30 Borna said it perfectly … ContinuedThe post New MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold Blue Moon gets the Neptune treatment appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
MB&F; Stuns Again with the Incredible HM9 Sapphire Vision
Back in January 2021, MB&F; released what remains one of my all time favorite watches in the “This is Totally Insane” genre of watchmaking. Regular readers will understand that this is actually one of my favorite genres – one that I wish more in our little world would aspire to, because, really, how many black dialed dive watches does one really need? The HM9 SV, short for Sapphire Vision, is, as described, a vision in sapphire. The design of this watch takes the already bonkers HM9 and essentially cases it in an elaborate array of sapphire crystals, with a metal frame holding it all together. The result is an incredible view of the HM9’s movement, which has two independent balance wheels joined by a central differential that averages out their rates for, in theory, more stable timekeeping. And it’s all arranged in a shape inspired by automotive design dating to the 1940s and 1950s, because this is MB&F;, and that’s what they do. Last week, MB&F; announced new versions of the HM9 SV, which is noteworthy because component for component, this has to be one of the toughest watches to make in the entire industry. The reason, of course, is because of the extensive use of sapphire, which has to be custom made specifically for these watches to very precise tolerances. And every piece of sapphire used in the HM9 SV is curved. MB&F; points out that sapphire cased watches made by some of their competitors are using mostly flat pieces of crystal, held together by screws. Th...
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GWF-1000 Frogman - the LAST of the \
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New MB&F; HM9 'Sapphire Vision' In White And Yellow Gold
Now here we go again, we see the crystal vision. But MB&F; isn't keeping the visions to themselves.
![[VIDEO] Watches & the Stories they Keep: Matter of Time x Astor+Banks](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/08/AstorBank_20ATM_007.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Watches & the Stories they Keep: Matter of Time x Astor+Banks
Watches aren’t exactly a practical necessity these days, and while that element certainly still appeals to some of us, there’s generally something deeper at work that’s provided them with the staying power they’ve enjoyed for the past few decades. We like the way they look and feel, as well as appreciate the mechanical artistry at work under the hood. Further still, we attach stories and experiences to these objects that imbue them with personal meaning and significance to us, many of which we do our best to explore and share in these very pages. Recording and preserving these experiences is the motivation behind a new outfit called Matter of Time, who have teamed up with Astor+Banks to create a run of watches meant to do just that. Matter of Time is a “purpose-driven club” that works a little differently than you might expect. Members are allowed to purchase watches created for the club given they agree to two stipulations: “The member will share and document special experiences on [the Matter of Time website] that they had with the watch through their life together and 2. Within two years, that watch will be given away. Not sold, but given away to recognize somebody’s good deed, effort or accomplishment.” Additionally, 50% of the proceeds of every collection go to a charitable cause. The first effort from Matter of Time is a collaboration with Astor+Banks on the Founder’s Collection. The watch, which is based on the Fortitude, takes inspiration fr...
Time+Tide
WHAT IF… The quartz crisis never happened?
Likely the most significant horological event of the previous century, the quartz crisis (or revolution, depending on which side you stood), not only signalled the beginning of the end for many smaller watch manufactures, but also influenced the way we look at watches to this very day. Quartz is often looked down upon, and incorrectly … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… The quartz crisis never happened? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The First IWC Pilot's Watch With A Fully Luminous Dial
A part of its collaborations with U.S. Navy squadrons, the 41mm Black Aces watch is a new bright dial in the brand's lineup.
Worn & Wound
IWC Adds a Fully Lumed Dial to their Pilot Collection with the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces
Sometimes I get tagged with the label of curmudgeon for my somewhat finicky and at times nonsensical taste in watches (and movies, and other things – I like what I like). But at the end of the day, I really just want watches to be fun, and for everyone to chill just a little bit when it comes to the hottest of takes on Instagram, YouTube, and elsewhere. If there’s one feature on a watch that captures a more nonchalant attitude toward watches in general, I think it has to be the fully lumed dial, right? Is there anything else that appeals so strongly to that proverbial inner child, the one who is still fascinated with things that glow in the dark? Lumed dials have been having a bit of a moment as of late, and now IWC is getting in on the action, with their first pilot’s watch with a fully lumed dial treatment, the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces. The Black Aces is the latest in an ongoing series of watches that IWC has made in partnership with US Navy squadrons as part of their Professional Pilot’s Watches Program. This new watch takes inspiration from a previous watch that IWC created for members of Strike Fighter Squadron 41, also known as the Black Aces. This squadron has roots that date back to 1950, and is based at Naval Air Station Lemoore in California, and their Black Aces patch can be seen on the dial at the 6:00 position of the new pilot’s watch. IWC refers to this as a “Lumicast” dial, and it comes together after a complex process that invol...
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