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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 5, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG

Audemars Piguet has unveiled a fresh rendition of the famed Royal Oak “Jumbo” with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG ref. 16202XT. Featuring a smoked burgundy dial, this latest version is set apart by its materials – a titanium case complemented by a bulk metallic glass (BMG) bezel – that are the same as those of the unique ref. 15202XT created for Only Watch 2021.  Initial thoughts While the classical steel “Jumbo” gets most of the attention, the most interesting version of the ref. 16202 in my view is the platinum model, mainly due to the smoked green dial. The platinum model has an appealing radial brushed finish on the dial that was exclusive to that variant, making it quite different from the usual tapisserie guilloche. It’s good to see the same dial finish on another model, and this time with an even more striking burgundy red dial. What sets the new “Jumbo” apart are the case materials: titanium and BMG. Though the materials are identical to the Only Watch edition, the finishing is different. The Only Watch edition was mostly sandblasted. This, on the other hand, has the conventional brushed finish of the Royal Oak. And of course the movements differ between the ref. 15202 and ref. 16202. Still, this remains a “Jumbo” is most respects – size, shape, and style. Yet, with its smoked dial and unusual case material, it becomes an interesting new watch. Whilst it will become part of the permanent collection, it will presumably be ...

Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio showcases the TAG Heuer Carrera Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera As we celebrate Sep 5, 2023

Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio showcases the TAG Heuer Carrera

As we celebrate the opening of our Melbourne Watch Discovery Studio, what better time to help TAG Heuer celebrate the 60th anniversary of their iconic Carrera? Whether it’s Ryan Gosling’s charming mug speeding away in a vintage Porsche or TAG Heuer’s latest and greatest Carrera Glassbox and Skipper pieces, the Time+Tide retail team will help … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio showcases the TAG Heuer Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We Finally Got Our Hands on the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter, and Here’s a Video to Prove It Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter Sep 4, 2023

We Finally Got Our Hands on the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter, and Here’s a Video to Prove It

Ever see a watch and just can’t get it out of your head? Of course you have – it’s a common side effect of the hobby. Sometimes, for reasons we can’t quite wrap our arms around, a watch becomes something we fixate on. It could be uncommonly beautiful, or genuinely unique, or some combination of the two. Or it could be for an entirely different reason altogether. The point is: some watches have a way of lingering in our brains long after we’ve first seen them, and like a pop song that gets stuck in your head, sometimes you just have to give yourself over to it.  For Blake Buettner and Zach Kazan, few watches have come along in recent years that are more emblematic of this idea than the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter. It made its debut, somewhat under the radar, during Watches & Wonders 2022, and ever since then has been an object of obsession, mystery, and genuine fascination. It’s come up on the podcast, inspired editorials, and has taken up space in our brains rent free for months.  Recently, we finally were able to see one in the metal (actually, ceramic), so of course we wanted to document the experience on video. This strange watch, with a dial featuring a total of five timing scales in a layout that seems designed to intentionally make you think about “closing the rings” is without a doubt one of the weirdest new watches we’ve seen from a major brand in recent years. Is it a pilot’s watch? A doctor’s watch? A very manual health and fitness tra...

Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre gives Sep 4, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer

Five years on, the Polaris Chronograph gets a subtle update with new dials and movements Dials now feature 35 layers of hand-applied clear lacquer as well as a new light grey colour variant The new Calibre 761 boasts a running seconds feature in place of a 12-hour counter It’s easy to forget that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s modern … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A New Complication for Kurono Tokyo: Introducing the GMT 1, with the Miyota 9075 Movement Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Introducing Sep 4, 2023

A New Complication for Kurono Tokyo: Introducing the GMT 1, with the Miyota 9075 Movement

We probably should have seen this one coming: the new watch from Kurono Tokyo, the affordable offshoot of Hajime Asaoka’s eponymous and very high end independent brand, is a GMT equipped with the new Miyota 9075 movement. This is a new complication for Kurono, and it makes sense that the brand waited to launch a GMT until an affordable, Japanese made, caliber with local jumping hours became available. The new watch, dubbed simply the Kurono GMT 1, feels very much of a piece with other recent Kurono releases, simply extending Asaoka’s Art Deco infused design codes with some new functionality.  The conceit of this watch, according to Asaoka, is that a GMT is a complication highly desired by those traveling the world for business purposes, but watches that are equipped with this feature often find themselves in the sport category. While I think any serious watch lover can probably poke a few holes in that theory, it led Asaoka to create an apologetically not a traditional sports watch. Like all Kurono watches, this is an aesthetic object first and foremost, with design flourishes that exist simply to look good, rather than serve any specific functional purpose. The watch was also designed with conservative “business” fashion in mind, which from Asaoka’s perspective hasn’t changed a whole lot through the years, which lends the GMT 1 a traditional look that, while not vintage inspired, wouldn’t look out of place in the 1950s or 60s.  The dial features multiple s...

The Time+Tide Shop welcomes the understated elegance of Fears Time+Tide
Fears Sep 4, 2023

The Time+Tide Shop welcomes the understated elegance of Fears

Keeping the excitement of our new Melbourne Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio opening its doors to the public going, we’re delighted to introduce the latest newcomer to the Time+Tide Shop – British watchmakers Fears. Apart from actually making good watches, heritage and the story behind the company are often regarded as the strongest marketing tools for … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide Shop welcomes the understated elegance of Fears appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX Time+Tide
Breguet CEO Lionel Sep 3, 2023

Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX

Breguet is not like other watch brands. I say this not to simply point out that their products are distinct within the market, but rather to define their guiding philosophy, which ultimately informs their products, that also sets them apart. Sure, other watch brands have celebrated namesakes. Few, if any, are more celebrated than Abraham-Louis … ContinuedThe post Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings a new case finish to the collection Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings Sep 3, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings a new case finish to the collection

Panerai are generally not a brand to depart from their established successes, usually riffing around the same ideas for years with subtle tweaks and colour options. That’s not a bad thing by any means, as the jumbo-sized cushion case watches are as iconic as they come. However, every now and again, they break some new … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings a new case finish to the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Bethesda Premieres Starfield Live Action Trailer, The James Brand puts a Spin on a Modern Classic, an Under-The-Radar Leica, & More Worn & Wound
Sep 2, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Bethesda Premieres Starfield Live Action Trailer, The James Brand puts a Spin on a Modern Classic, an Under-The-Radar Leica, & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Bethesda Software Bethesda Premieres Starfield Live Action Trailer Via Bethesda Software We haven’t been shy about sharing our excitement for the highly-anticipated sci-fi, intergalactic RPG, Starfield. Earlier this year, we got a glimpse of Bethesda’s gem during the Xbox Showcase where they displayed the stunning gameplay visuals allowing the player to explore over 1,000 planets spread across 100 star systems. The vast amount of player-interaction is mind-boggling and the game already promises a dynamic gamer experience charged with planetary exploration and exhilarating spaceship dogfighting. There’s no shortage in details and every aspect of the game seems well-thought out. Especially the protagonist’s bespoke digital watch, dubbed the Chronomark, which we also covered here on WSG a couple years back – yes, we’ve been anxiously awaiting that long. With the launch date on the horizon, Bethesda Software has released a full-on live action trailer that encompasses everything we’ve been animated about. With breathtaking views, an inspiring orchestral s...

REVIEW: Getting Out & About With The Bremont Martin-Baker II WatchAdvice
Bremont Martin-Baker II Spring Sep 2, 2023

REVIEW: Getting Out & About With The Bremont Martin-Baker II

Spring is here and a great time to get out and about, so I took the Bremont Martin-Baker II on a couple of outdoor adventures to see how this robust watch holds up in our latest Hands On Review! What We Love Comfortable on the wristBright, easy to read dialOrange colour pops & is fun What We Don’t Crown is hard to pull out and setWears on the larger sideStrap can be a little finicky to put on Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 For those that aren’t aware off the Martin-Baker story, here’s a quick re-cap. Martin-Baker is a British aviation company responsible for supplying 70% of the world’s Air Forces with fighter ejection seat technology. They first approached Bremont to create the definitive aviation watch in 2007. More than simply putting a logo on an existing model, the watch had to withstand the same rigorous testing programme as the ejection seats themselves. Two years later, the Bremont Martin-Baker I (MBI) was born and limited solely for pilots who have ejected from an aircraft using a Martin-Baker seat – something that is not all that fun and puts a tremendous amount of stress on the body and the watch! The MBI with red case ring – only for pilots who’ve survived a live ejection The MBII and MBIII were then produced for the general public, designed to the same strict standards of the MBI, but available in a range of colours and variants, with people able to choose their own colour for the mid...

The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 is the the latest Genta watch to become a celeb favourite Time+Tide
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Sep 2, 2023

The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 is the the latest Genta watch to become a celeb favourite

Trivial to some, cool to see for many, people around the world are constantly tuning in to see what celebrities are wearing. For watch fans, the magnifying glass is being held up to the wrists of celebrities. I think we all have experienced friends and family giving us the side-eye as we constantly pause a … ContinuedThe post The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 is the the latest Genta watch to become a celeb favourite appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith x Kari Voutilainen x Phillips Calibre 135 Observatoire: 10 of the World’s Highest Precision, Competition-Winning Chronometer Movements Ready for the Wrist – Reprise Quill & Pad
Zenith x Kari Voutilainen x Sep 2, 2023

Zenith x Kari Voutilainen x Phillips Calibre 135 Observatoire: 10 of the World’s Highest Precision, Competition-Winning Chronometer Movements Ready for the Wrist – Reprise

After seven decades carefully stored away in the Zenith archives, ten of the original chronometry competition-winning movements find their way into a limited set of new watches thanks to Phillips, legendary independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, and Zenith's current management.

The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 Série Atelier V pays tribute to a racing icon Time+Tide
Laurent Ferrier Sep 2, 2023

The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 Série Atelier V pays tribute to a racing icon

The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 harkens back to the founder’s racing pedigree The green dial Is based on the Porsche 935 he helped to place third in Le Mans 1979 Even as a luxury watch, its 41.5mm titanium case is comfortable, and water-resistant to 120m There are a lot of brands who claim that … ContinuedThe post The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 Série Atelier V pays tribute to a racing icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Celebrating 25 Years of the Sinn 356 Worn & Wound
Sinn 356 Sinn Sep 1, 2023

Celebrating 25 Years of the Sinn 356

Sinn is a cult brand with a unique quality (ok, several) – each of their watches also has a cult following. Are you a 556-head? A U1 kind-of-guy? No? How about a 103-fiend? Or, do you like the 70s vibe of the 144 the most? No matter what, there’s a Sinn line you can geek out over, as over the years each line has had several to dozens of variations and special editions created under it. But, there’s been one model that has felt somewhat ignored over the last several years. A line that is actually a bit of a favorite around at Worn & Wound and on my perennial “someday I’ll pick one up” list – the 356, Sinn’s most compact automatic chronograph. At 38.5 x 46mm for a long, long time, the 356 was one of the smallest automatic, or even mechanical, chronographs you could find for a reasonable price. Powered by the venerable Valjoux 7750, it blended a classic military pilot chronograph layout, one that pulled from Type 20s and the like, with a case that felt more like a field watch in its size and stripped-down appearance. The result was rugged, understated, and altogether charming. Check out our review from 2014. While variations of the 356 exist or have existed, including different crystal options, a stunning model with a salmon stamped-guilloche dial, and an elusive 12-hour UTC model, it’s not a line that has gotten much attention recently. This is why today’s announcement, celebrating the 25th anniversary of the 356 with three new models, is so exciting. To ...

Seiko Brings the 6R54 GMT Caliber to the Alpinist Family Worn & Wound
Seiko Brings Sep 1, 2023

Seiko Brings the 6R54 GMT Caliber to the Alpinist Family

Seiko introduced a new caliber back in March via their Prospex GMT Diver collection, adding caller GMT functionality into the brand’s well understood contemporary dive watch platform. Those watches have generated quite a bit of chatter in the watch community, with many singing their praises with respect to overall fit, finish, and wearability, and others wishing for a more functional flyer GMT complication. While the dust might still be settling, Seiko marches on, with the latest crop of watches to feature their still new 6R54 GMT movement. This time, Seiko brings the movement to the Alpinist family, which seems like a natural place for a GMT equipped watch to land. It takes what has always been cast as an explorer’s watch (with its signature compass bezel) and gives it a modern, practical, mechanical complication for a different kind of exploration.  I’ve always been a pretty big fan of the Alpinist for many of the reasons Blake identifies in his Missed Review. There’s something charmingly anachronistic about wearing a watch designed with such an old fashioned aesthetic (those cathedral hands, especially) but built to modern sports watch standards. With a GMT complication added, the Alpinist retains a lot (maybe all) of that old fashioned charm, just slightly tweaked. The Explorer-style steel 24 hour bezel gives these watches a clean and sporty look, and we still get the trademark handset and those big numerals (just at the cardinal positions here, rather than ev...

The Labor Day 2023 Sale at the Windup Watch Shop Has Kicked Off! Worn & Wound
Sep 1, 2023

The Labor Day 2023 Sale at the Windup Watch Shop Has Kicked Off!

It’s always a bummer when we realize that summer is ending. The long days, endless BBQ, and warm midday walks are all slowly fading away. However, we have just the thing to help lift our fellow enthusiast spirits! The Labor Day Sale has just kicked off and we are super stoked about some of the items up for promotions this year. To kick things off, we’re having a huge sitewide sale that includes getting up to 15% off select straps, accessories, EDC, clocks, and of course watches, as well as some other incredible cool gifts with purchase items. The Labor Day Sale starts at 12:00AM EST 8/31/2023 and ends at 11:59PM EST on 9/04/2023. It’s always a bummer when we realize that summer is ending. The long days, endless BBQ, and warm midday walks are all slowly fading away. However, we have just the thing to help lift our fellow enthusiast spirits! The Labor Day Sale has just kicked off and we are super stoked about some of the items up for promotions this year. To kick things off, we’re having a huge sitewide sale that includes getting up to 15% off select straps, accessories, EDC, clocks, and of course watches, as well as some other incredible cool gifts with purchase items. The Labor Day Sale starts at 12:00AM EST 8/31/2023 and ends at 11:59PM EST on 9/04/2023. The post The Labor Day 2023 Sale at the Windup Watch Shop Has Kicked Off! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Corum Looks Forward (and Back) with the Futuristic Concept Watch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus Sep 1, 2023

Corum Looks Forward (and Back) with the Futuristic Concept Watch

Corum’s latest creation is the Concept Watch, a one-off timepiece that departs from the brand’s current offerings in its futuristic style. For a brand better known for the Golden Bridge and Admiral’s Cup, the Concept Watch is bold, different, and not for everyone. Made of recycled titanium, the case contains a movement with a flying tourbillon and sapphire crystal bridges set against an aventurine base. The movement, however, is a La Joux-Perret calibre that’s been found in Corum watches for several years. Initial thoughts With most of its sports watches being large and ostentatious, it’s good to see the brand shifting towards something more elegant. The Concept Watch is compact at under 40 mm in diameter and relatively restrained in design. While it is more appealing than most of Corum’s recent watches, there are caveats. I am not fond of the case design, which is too reminiscent of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. A round case with apertures that maximises the view of the movement, one similar to that of the Franc Villa FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, would have made this less derivative. Also, the strap attachment appears awkward, and will probably not make its way into other ways. At the same time, even though the design is a break from the past, the CO374 movement has been employed by Corum for more than a decade now. It is a La Joux-Perret calibre found in various forms across several brands, including the Arnold & Son TES Tourbillon. Notably, Corum debuted a...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The full down-low on the Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio Time+Tide
Sep 1, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The full down-low on the Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio

What a week it’s been. Mere days after announcing that our Watch Discovery Studio is open to the public, we’ve already seen many of you visit, experiencing the brands we carry and chatting all things watches. So, before anything else, thank you for your ongoing support. For those who haven’t braved the rainy Melbourne weather … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The full down-low on the Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Clasps 101: A Guide to the Various Types of Closures Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 31, 2023

Watch Clasps 101: A Guide to the Various Types of Closures

As long as watches have been worn on the wrist (click here if you’re curious about how long that’s actually been), watchmakers have needed to figure out how to keep their straps, and eventually bracelets, securely fastened. Nowadays, with a plethora of strap and bracelet options available to watch wearers, there are also several styles of these closures, many of which have become brand signatures in their own right. From tang buckles to butterflies to trifolds, we cover the gamut here, listing pros and cons for each. Pin/Tang/Ardillon Buckle The simplest type of closure, and one used only on straps, is a pin buckle, aka a tang or ardillon buckle (“ardillon” is a French word that translates to “tongue”). If you’ve ever worn a belt, you’re familiar with the design, though perhaps not the terminology. One end of the strap - which can be either a two-piece, like most leather and rubber straps, or a one-piece, like a cloth or nylon NATO strap - has a series of perforations called adjustment holes along part of its length. The other end terminates in a simple device with a spring bar attached to a U-shaped bracket and a central piece called a mandel (the “pin” or “tongue”). The bracket slides over the other end of the strap while the mandel slips through one of the adjustment holes, and into a notch on the bracket, to fit the strap to the wearer’s wrist and secure it against coming loose. Pros: It’s easy to use and generally comfortable, as there...

The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package Time+Tide
Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic Aug 31, 2023

The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package

For Geneva Watch Days 2023, Alpina has released two regular -production tribute versions of the tank-style Alpiner The Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years offers vintage looks with modern appointments Two dial variants are available: two-tone silver (US and international), and black (international only) For Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is looking back with the release … ContinuedThe post The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Sport Auto 40, a Personal Take on the Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Laurent Ferrier Aug 31, 2023

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Sport Auto 40, a Personal Take on the Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

There are all kinds of watches that are tied to motorsports. Horology and racing are inextricably linked, and while the Venn Diagram of people who are into watches and into various aspects of car culture and auto racing isn’t exactly a circle, it’s honestly probably not far off. But when it comes to watches that are inspired by motorsport in one way or another, we find varying levels of refinement and authenticity in the products that make it to boutique shelves. It’s easy enough to slap a logo of a car manufacturer on a dial or make a caseback calling attention to a particular race, but it’s more challenging to draw a real connection between these two worlds, even as they’re so closely linked. One of the things that make the watches made by Laurent Ferrier so interesting is that the connection feels real, a natural result of the history of the team that founded the brand. Before he was a world renowned watchmaker, Laurent Ferrier and his partner Francois Servanin were (very accomplished) amateur racers, and the new version of the Sport Auto celebrates that history.  For watch fans who might not be familiar with Laurent Ferrier’s personal history prior to the founding of his eponymous brand, he did indeed make something of a name for himself in the automotive world at the 24 Hours of Le Mans race in 1979. Ferrier and his teammates (including Servanin and Francois Trisconi) placed third in that race out of 60, a surprising result for a group of non-professional...