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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

Voutilainen Squares the Circle With the KV20i Reversed CS SJX Watches
Voutilainen Oct 3, 2025

Voutilainen Squares the Circle With the KV20i Reversed CS

Voutilainen turns the popular three-hand formula inside out to put the movement front and centre, now with a titanium cushion-case for the first time. The KV20i Reversed CS is not revolutionary, instead building on the KV20i Reversed Cherry from last year, but the movement remains one of the best in its segment, with hands, case, and half of a dial to match. Initial Thoughts Kari Voutilainen is a seminal figure in independent watchmaking, partly responsible for the popularity of elaborately decorated three-hand watches with dazzling guilloche dials – and not just because his company, Comblémine, makes a good number of those guilloche dials for other brands. Mr Voutilainen was at least a decade ahead of his time with his Observatoire of 2007, a watch that, alongside Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity, cultivated a market for this format. Nearly two decades later, his watches stand out less aesthetically, but his quality remains superlative – and has even improved. An Observatoire made in 2007, now 18 years old. Image – Phillips The cushion-shaped case is a new variable in a familiar formula, taking after the unique TP1 pocket watch Kari and Venla Voutilainen made for Only Watch 2019. Four prominent security screws hold the case together, and make for a more contemporary aesthetic that works well with Kari’s already pleasantly eclectic style. And for better or worse (depending on the collector’s taste) the Reversed CS leaves ample room for customisation. Beyond the c...

Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Oct 2, 2025

Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared

If you're relatively new to the watch collecting game and are ready to graduate to your first Omega watch, you're probably pondering a question that has confronted many others before you: Speedmaster or Seamaster? Spaceworthy historical chronograph or tough but stylish diver? Buzz Aldrin or Jacques Cousteau? The official watch of NASA or the official watch of James Bond? Both of these megapopular Omega watches have rich, amazing stories to tell and both today offer a plethora of options in terms of colorways, materials, and even added complications - all while still remaining true to their heritage. In this feature, we compare and contrast the Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster in the pursuit of helping prospective buyers make a (hopefully) more informed decision on their first - or next - Omega watch.  Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: Far From Their Roots In terms of seniority as a product family, the Omega Seamaster has almost a decade on its chronograph sibling. The Seamaster as we know it today is one of the most iconic of dive watches, but in 1948, when Omega introduced the first model by that name, the “dive watch” as we know it in the modern sense didn’t really exist. The original Omega Seamaster was positioned in contemporary advertisements as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - a dress watch for gentlemen that was distinguished from its many competitors by its adoption of a new waterproofing system that Omega had developed for the watches it produ...

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Bulova Unveils Oct 2, 2025

Start Spreading the News: Bulova Unveils the Final Exclusive Snorkel Edition for Windup Watch Fair NYC

As the entire world of watches converges on New York City for the upcoming Windup Watch Fair, Bulova is unveiling their third and final Windup Limited-Edition Snorkel that pays tribute to the city in a uniquely NYC way. Celebrating both 150 years of Bulova and 10 years of Windup and following in the footsteps of its Windup San Francisco and Chicago exclusives-which featured casebacks and colorways specific to those towns-the Bulova Snorkel Windup NYC Limited Edition offers a fresh, modern take on the classic “Devil Diver” design. The post Start Spreading the News: Bulova Unveils the Final Exclusive Snorkel Edition for Windup Watch Fair NYC appeared first on Worn & Wound.

First Look – The New and (Very) Opulent Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Versailles Monochrome
Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Oct 2, 2025

First Look – The New and (Very) Opulent Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Versailles

Montblanc’s mastery of métiers d’art and mechanical innovation comes together once more in its most opulent creation yet, the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Château de Versailles. Since introducing the Exo Tourbillon in 2010, a patented construction that positions the balance wheel outside and above the tourbillon cage, Montblanc has revisited this remarkable regulator in […]

Introducing Kiwame Tokyo, a New Japanese Microbrand Worn & Wound
Kiwame Tokyo Oct 2, 2025

Introducing Kiwame Tokyo, a New Japanese Microbrand

The independent watch space in Japan is one of the most interesting in the world right now. There have, of course, always been a lot of great watches coming out of Japan, but the last few years have seen a real surge in enthusiast focused releases from brands at literally every price point, and they’ve been redefining what a Japanese watch looks and feels like. We recently covered the latest release from Ōtsuka Lōtec, a daring haute horology experiment with a six figure price tag, and this year also saw the unveiling of Naoya Hida’s first perpetual calendar, which, for me personally, is still one of the very best watches I’ve laid hands on in 2025. These watches, and others, make for great examples of the breadth of Japanese watchmaking, but not everything new and interesting is prohibitively expensive. Case in point, Kiwame Tokyo, an entirely new brand that recently came across our radar.  Kiwame is the brainchild of Masami Watanabe, a 30 year veteran of the watch industry who began his career importing luxury watches from European brands to his native Japan. Over time, he also became interested in the burgeoning microbrand scene, and the stated goal of Kiwame is to create a “truly Japanese” microbrand that captures the refinement and craft that is often associated with Japanese design principles.  Kiwame debuted their first two watches only a short time ago and they quickly sold out of each 99 piece limited edition (an additional run is promised for Novembe...

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback Fratello
Longines Spirit Pilot Oct 2, 2025

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback

Longines and aviation have been intertwined for more than a century. The brand supplied navigation and timekeeping instruments for some of the earliest pioneers of flight, from transatlantic adventurers to polar explorers. That history continues to shape the Spirit collection, launched in 2020 as a modern take on classic pilot’s watches. Now, five years on, […] Visit Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback to read the full article.

Introducing – New Sector Dials for the Moritz Grossmann Benu Power Reserve Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Oct 2, 2025

Introducing – New Sector Dials for the Moritz Grossmann Benu Power Reserve

Ferdinand Adolph Lange was the founding father of Glashütte’s proud watchmaking tradition, attracting like-minded entrepreneurs and suppliers of parts to the region. One of these was Lange’s good friend, Moritz Grossmann, who set up shop in 1854. Revived in 2008 by Christine Hutter, Moritz Grossmann is admired today for its original, ultra-refined, understated, beautifully crafted […]

First Look – The Compact and Streamlined Longines Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback Monochrome
Longines Spirit Pilot Oct 2, 2025

First Look – The Compact and Streamlined Longines Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback

Since its introduction in 2020, the Longines Spirit collection, the brand’s vision of a contemporary-spec’d pilot’s watch with a retro-styled design, has evolved into a full-fledged range, featuring multiple materials, practical complications, larger or smaller models, as well as lightweight chronographs. In short, we thought we had seen them all. But no, Longines has decided […]

Hands-On With The Impressively Handsome Beda’a Angles Mecaline Fratello
Oct 2, 2025

Hands-On With The Impressively Handsome Beda’a Angles Mecaline

One of the standout releases during Geneva Watch Days 2025 was the duo of Beda’a Angles Mecaline models. The mechanical versions of the Qatari brand’s Angles design the perfect evolution of the quartz series introduced in the second half of last year. I had a chance to find out how the two excellent modern dress […] Visit Hands-On With The Impressively Handsome Beda’a Angles Mecaline to read the full article.

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Pink Gold Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 2, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Pink Gold Dial

A. Lange & Söhne is a serious minded brand that rarely does fancy in terms of dials, so even a simple cosmetic makeover is novel for the brand. That’s true for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds with a pink gold dial that was just launched earlier this month, applying a striking new look to a technically compelling but arguably under-appreciated watch. Described officially as “pink gold” – it is actually solid gold – the dial is in a shade best known as “salmon”. This gives a vivid, fresh aesthetic to a watch that’s compact and surprisingly complex, combining a regulator-style display with a deadbeat seconds linked to a remontoir, as well as a hacking, zero-reset seconds. Initial thoughts The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds has always been an interesting watch in technical terms; the movement is unusual in function but typical Lange in terms of quality. Calibres like this are tangible illustrations of Lange’s prowess in both engineering and aesthetics when it comes to movements. Despite being relatively complex, the Jumping Seconds is unusually compact for a complicated Lange watch, giving it surprisingly wearable dimensions. This gives the watch tangible and intellectual appeal. But the original versions, both with silver dials, were a little boring. The subsequent version with a black dial was high contrast and more appealing. The latest version with a pink gold dial is the easiest to like. It’s an eye-catching livery that does justice to the mechanics ...

Full Throttle at H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Oct 1, 2025

Full Throttle at H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly

A relatively small brand in the big world of international motorsport, H. Moser & Cie. continues its collaboration with the Alpine Formula 1 team with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly, which takes the brand’s distinctive sport watch and adds a warm red gold colourway favoured by Mr Gasly, a French driver racing for Alpine. The Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is offered in two configurations – a 100-piece edition on a rubber strap, and an even more special edition of 10 pieces that features a full 18k red gold bracelet and a subtle baguette ruby at ten o’clock, a detail based on the racing driver’s number. Notably, both were conceived by Mr Gasly himself, who is a fan of the brown-and-red-gold aesthetic. According to Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, Mr Gasly already owns other watches in this livery. Initial thoughts Celebrity endorsements can, at times, come across as inauthentic, but this type of marketing has been part of the fabric of the luxury watch industry for decades. In fact, it was another Formula 1 star, Jim Clark, who was one of the first official celebrity brand ambassadors for a watch brand, signing on to represent Enicar back in 1966. But while Clark promoted the standard collection of Enicar watches, Mr Gasly had the chance to put his own spin (pun intended) on Alpine team sponsor H. Moser & Cie.’s top-of-the-line sport watch, the Streamliner Tourbillon. Edouard Meylan (left) with Pierre Gasly In many ways the Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is a typ...

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 1, 2025

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity?

The beginning of October is the official marker of the beginning of spooky season, at least in my opinion. In the spirit of Halloween inching closer and closer on our calendars, I thought it would be fun to take a deep dive into a watch that really channels the energy of the season, at least as far as nicknames go – the Seiko Monster. And, to lean even further into the fanfare, I’ll be focusing solely on the most Halloween-appropriate colorways of the Seiko Monster universe – that’s right, it's the bright, pumpkin-y Seiko Orange Monster from here on out. Below, I’ll be walking you through a little history lesson for context, breaking down the various generations of Seiko’s Monster diver, ultimately to help you determine for yourself if this watch is an unlikely icon or a horological monstrosity.  Seiko Monster Context First things first – the “Monster” moniker is a nickname for this line of divers that the enthusiast community came up with itself, and the brand has yet to embrace it officially. The early 2000s, at large, is representative of something of an identity crisis for the watch world, as the necessity of wristwatches as a time-keeping tool waned. Each brand has its own approach, but when I think of the early 2000s for watches, chunky, bold, imaginative, and somewhat overbuilt pieces are the first things that come to mind, especially on the heels of the relatively conservative watch designs of the 1990s. Ultimately, the origin story of the Seiko ...

Grand Seiko Introduces the SLGB005 “Violet Dawn” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Oct 1, 2025

Grand Seiko Introduces the SLGB005 “Violet Dawn”

Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, Grand Seiko revealed the SLBG003, which turned out to be one of the most impressive watches of the whole show. Housing the new 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, the UFA (Ultra-Fine Accuracy) movement is certified to an almost incomprehensible +/- 20 seconds per year, or roughly 3 seconds per month. That makes it, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate movement powered by a mainspring. It’s a truly impressive horological achievement.  Of course, as soon as a brand like Grand Seiko introduces an entirely new platform like the UFA, enthusiasts are on pins and needles waiting to see what comes next. It’s not that we can’t appreciate what we have in front of us, but particularly with Grand Seiko, we know that variants are coming in the form of new dial options and case materials. If you had asked me in the Spring when we’d see the first derivation on the UFA line, I probably wouldn’t have expected to see a new watch so soon, but last week Grand Seiko dropped the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005, nicknamed the “Violet Dawn” for its deep purple dial. It’s always interesting to see what new watches in a new sub-collection come to pass, not just for what it says about where the line is going, but perhaps where it’s not.  The SLGB005, like its predecessor, is what we’d probably call a small-medium size by today’s standards, measuring a conservative 37mm. Unlike the titanium SLBG003, however, this watch is clad in a st...

IWC Pilot's Watches: The History and Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Oct 1, 2025

IWC Pilot's Watches: The History and Ultimate Guide

Few watch brands are as readily identified with aviation and the history of pilot’s watches than IWC, which not only gave the watch world two of the genre’s most iconic (and widely emulated) timepieces, the Big Pilot’s Watch and the Mark 11, but also has used both these groundbreaking models as foundations for a sprawling and diverse collection of contemporary aviation-inspired watches today. Here is the story of IWC Pilot’s Watches, from the Special Watch for Pilots to the Spitfire to the Top Gun, from simple three-hand to perpetual calendar, and everything in between.  F.A. Jones’ International Dream (1860s - 1930s)   IWC founder Florentine Ariosto Jones Other than the fact that he came to Switzerland in 1868, at the relatively tender age of 27, to become the first American-born founder of a Swiss watch company, little is known about the life of IWC patriarch Florentine Ariosto Jones. He was born in New Hampshire in 1841 and fought in the American Civil War for the Massachusetts Infantry. His postwar career at the renowned Massachusetts watchmaker E. Howard & Co. led to his European sojourn and the establishment of the International Watch Company in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. From the outset, Jones’ business plan was to marry the generational watchmaking expertise of the Swiss with the then-new, assembly-line production techniques of the U.S.A. His decision to locate his factory in Schaffhausen, near Switzerland’s northern border with Germany, rather tha...

Hands-On With The Norqain Wild One Skeleton 42mm Purple Fratello
Norqain Wild One Skeleton 42mm Oct 1, 2025

Hands-On With The Norqain Wild One Skeleton 42mm Purple

Norqain is still a relatively young brand, but it has carved out a niche as a maker of fun, stylish watches. Of all the models in the catalog, the Wild One Skeleton is probably the best known. No matter the variant, the pieces are typically colorful, slightly brash, and capable. From my experience, though, they’re […] Visit Hands-On With The Norqain Wild One Skeleton 42mm Purple to read the full article.

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly (Incl. Video) Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Oct 1, 2025

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly (Incl. Video)

On the eve of the 2025 Singapore Grand Prix at the Marina Bay Street Circuit, H. Moser & Cie. pulls the covers off its latest Formula 1-themed watch. But it’s perhaps not what you expect, as it doesn’t come in some highly exotic F1-tech derived material, nor with a revolutionary design. Instead, the renowned independent […]

In-Depth – Audemars Piguet Reimagines the Chronograph with the Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5 (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Reimagines Oct 1, 2025

In-Depth – Audemars Piguet Reimagines the Chronograph with the Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5 (Incl. Video)

The chronograph is undoubtedly one of the most, if not the most, popular complications among watch enthusiasts. However, few people realise that this mechanism is one of the most complex in watchmaking. Most chronographs operate on the same fundamental principles. However, with the Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5, Audemars Piguet dares to challenge conventions that […]

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Chronograph Oct 1, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions

Audemars Piguet (AP) reinvents the chronograph with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5. Inside the titanium and palladium BMG case – standing just 8.1 mm high – is the cal. 8100, a new take on the chronograph mechanism that employs spring-loaded racks to gather and store energy. The RD#5 is the fifth and final instalment in the “RD” series of watches that underline the impressive technical know-how of AP, particularly its Le Locle manufacture that evolved from Renaud & Papi (APRP). Conceived with the goal of creating a chronograph that is extra slim and easy on the fingers, the RD#5 boasts exceptionally light and comfortable pusher feel, an instantaneously-jumping minutes counter, and an exceptionally slim profile (thanks in part to peripheral winding), all while remaining amenable to industrial-haute horlogerie manufacturing. It’s one of the most technically interesting debuts of 2025, and we explain AP’s new take on the chronograph in detail below. The cal. 8100 with its unorthodox chronograph and peripheral rotor Initial thoughts Outwardly just another Royal Oak, with the same ideal proportions and class-leading bracelet as the iconic “Jumbo”, the RD#5 is actually one of the most innovative mechanical chronographs in recent years. Perhaps the only comparison for out-of-the-box chronograph construction is AgenGraphe that was unveiled almost a decade ago. The watch was evidently developed with two goals in ...

Introducing: The Praesidus × The Watch Observer A-11 Type 44 - A Limited WWII Tribute Fratello
Oct 1, 2025

Introducing: The Praesidus × The Watch Observer A-11 Type 44 - A Limited WWII Tribute

Praesidus, a brand devoted to authentic WWII recreations, has teamed up with French watch news site The Watch Observer for a limited edition of its A-11 Type 44. Limited to 250 numbered watches, the new model pays tribute to the US Air Force’s 533rd Bomb Squadron. If that doesn’t immediately ring a bell, it is […] Visit Introducing: The Praesidus × The Watch Observer A-11 Type 44 - A Limited WWII Tribute to read the full article.

The NATO Strap: A History And 10 Best NATO-Strap Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 30, 2025

The NATO Strap: A History And 10 Best NATO-Strap Watches

Once a style that appealed mainly to a small but diehard niche, watches with NATO straps have moved from their original realm of military utility to become a popular option in the mainstream world of watches, even at some of the highest echelons of sporty luxury. If you're considering adding a NATO strap to your collection, or are simply curious where they came from and what your choices are on the market today, we tackle all your questions below.  Why Is It Called a NATO Strap? One would assume, from the strap’s plainly utilitarian, military look, that the name is derived directly from an association with the North Atlantic Treaty organization (NATO), the intergovernmental alliance of 30 European and North American nations for mutual military defense. However, this is not exactly the case.  Essentially, a so-called NATO strap is any one-piece strap, made of nylon or some other fabric, that loops under the watch’s case and through its spring bars to hold it securely in place on the wrist. Like all inventions that originated for a military purpose, its design emphasized utility, practicality, and secure use on the field of battle: such a strap construction would hold the watch in place, albeit dangling precariously, even if one of the spring bars were broken. Armed forces in both the United States and Great Britain used these types of fabric straps as early as the mid-20th Century (predating the formation of NATO in 1949); at one point, they were referred to in shorth...

The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. brings a playful robot animation to a means-business split-seconds chronograph Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R brings Sep 30, 2025

The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. brings a playful robot animation to a means-business split-seconds chronograph

The new Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. merges a cheeky robot display with one of watchmaking's most complicated mechanisms.The post The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. brings a playful robot animation to a means-business split-seconds chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing – The New Ochs und Junior Day/Night Holiday Edition 2025 Monochrome
Sep 30, 2025

Introducing – The New Ochs und Junior Day/Night Holiday Edition 2025

Ochs und Junior, the independent brand founded in 2006 around the inventive genius of Dr Ludwig Oechslin, has built its reputation on watches that present complex astronomical or calendar displays in radically simple, functional designs. Models such as the perpetual calendar, annual calendar, and moon phase are already cult favourites among collectors who appreciate mechanical […]

Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th Fratello
Breitling × Fratello Evening Sep 30, 2025

Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th

It is with pride that I announce the upcoming Breitling × Fratello event, which will take place in the city where I was born. In fact, the Breitling boutique in Enschede is part of Koelink Jewelers, the store where I got my first serious watch back in 1998. On November 7th, we will host a […] Visit Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th to read the full article.

First Look – The New Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Night Navigation Series Monochrome
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Sep 30, 2025

First Look – The New Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Night Navigation Series

Released during Watches & Wonders 2025, Nomos’ Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer – a slim, sporty, water-resistant and user-friendly world timer – drew admiring crowds to the brand’s booth. One of the thinnest world timers on the market, the Nomos Worldtimer further wowed the crowds with its sensible tourist-class price. Following the inaugural references, Nomos returns […]