514 articles · 16 videos found · page 5 of 18
38 mm × 12.6 mm, lug 19 mm, Cal. El Primero 400
The 1969 36,000 vph automatic chronograph saved from the quartz crisis by Charles Vermot.
Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Zenith pulls the stopwatch function from its most recognisable sports case and the result is more interesting than you'd expect
Hodinkee
While companies often focus on their most iconic watches and let old models flounder, Zenith has built the Defy line back into a strong pillar of the brand.
Hodinkee
Led by a stunning time-only Audemars Piguet, this week's drop is our best in December by far.
Hodinkee
It was given to me by one of my mentors, Ludwig Oechslin.
Deployant
Zenith boutiques and authorized retailers around the world, the Chronomaster Open is available in steel with a white or black dial, with either a steel bracelet or cordura-effect rubber strap
Hodinkee
Zenith's mid-2000s flagship chronograph receives new tenth-of-a-second duds.
Hodinkee
Look, Ma, three hands!
Hodinkee
Imagine a brand changing just one color or even tweaking one line of text on the dial of its most popular model – what an idea!
Hodinkee
Kick back, relax, and enjoy a piña colada – it's time to go tropical.
Hodinkee
Happy Wednesday from the HODINKEE Vintage Team.
Hodinkee
Julien Tornare goes deep.
Hodinkee
Fifteen (new) vintage watches to peruse in the HODINKEE Shop.
Hodinkee
And a Swatch phone, because why not?
Revolution
The Bamford Watch Department has collaborated with Zenith to create a retro-futurist Chronomaster inspired by archive pieces and radar.
WatchAdvice
The new Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport removes the collection’s defining chronograph complication, but retains its high-frequency El Primero heart. I take the collection hands-on to see whether it can establish its own identity while still remaining a true Chronomaster! What We Love: Retains the Chronomaster identity Meaningful high-frequency dial pattern Well-proportioned for everyday wear What We Don’t: No alternative strap options Limited dial-and-bezel combinations Shark-tooth track feels busy on darker dials Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.8/10 What happens when a brand introduces a model that removes one of the defining elements from an already established collection? Well, that is exactly what Zenith has done with the latest addition to one of the brand’s most refined collections to house the El Primero movement: the Chronomaster. While we were initially expecting a different take on the signature chronograph model, the release of a simple three-hand edition was not something we anticipated, but it is certainly welcome. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) The story behind Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport begins much earlier than the collection itself, tracing back to the launch of the El Primero in 1969. As the world’s first automatic integrated high-frequency chronograph calibre, the El Primero quickly established the technical foundation that would later ...
Hodinkee
Zenith, the storied Swiss brand founded more than a century ago and known for its El Primero high-beat chronograph movement, will undergo major restructuring, forcing the LVMH-owned company to significantly reduce its workforce and scale back production and distribution, with plans to reposition the marque as a high-horology, low-volume watchmaker. The Zenith overhaul follows years of financial losses by the brand, founded by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1865. Chief Executive Officer Benoit De Clerck addressed employees at the company's headquarters this week, announcing the restructuring and warning that the company could eliminate as many as 100 jobs, or about half the workforce at the manufacture. To complete the reorganization and reposition the brand by 2029, the company may also eliminate another 100 positions, including the watch brand's entire international team. A Zenith watchmaker. Management and executives are now in a formal "consultation process" with employees over the next three weeks to negotiate the terms of the restructuring and job cuts. Unia, the Swiss employees' trade union representing workers at the manufacturer, will meet with employees next week and join management in the consultation process, according to people familiar with the matter who spoke on condition of anonymity because they were not permitted to comment publicly. "We confirm that a staff consultation process was initiated today [Thursday] concerning a proposed ...
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, a veteran watch industry CEO who is taking on one of the biggest and most demanding challenges of his storied career. Julien Tornare is the head of Hublot, the irreverent and ground-breaking brand controlled by LVMH that's trying to reclaim some of its former glory and role as a trend-setter in industry innovation. An affable and talented business leader, Tornare has spent almost three decades in the watch world with Vacheron Constantin and Richemont, then as chief executive of Zenith, where he oversaw a dramatic revival and upswing for the El Primero maker. He then had a brief tenure as the CEO of TAG Heuer before joining Hublot as the big boss in 2024. Julien Tornare.Image: Courtesy Hublot Tornare talks about Hublot's turbulent journey over the past four decades and the spirit reflected in the brand's unconventional, outspoken ambassadors. He also addresses the marque's critics, arguing that the YouTuber shots are largely unjustified. He also discusses the influence of Hublot's Italian founder Carlo Crocco as the company reconsiders its legacy ahead of its 50th anniversary in 2030. There's also news of a major new partnership with legendary American artist Jeff Koons, who is bringing his artistic vision to the watch brand for the first time through a series of bold collaborations. We also discuss the role that Jean Arnault, long considered the true watch enthusiast in the Arnault clan, now has with the brand. There's plenty o...
Hodinkee
Happy Friday, folks, and congrats on bustling through another week. Hopefully you're staring down a welcome break of a weekend with rest and good cheer. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Zenith De Luca sold for €4,750, the Carlo Ferrara for €2,816, the Gen 1 Speedmaster X-33 for 2,000 SGD, and the Patek Philippe 1415 will sell this Friday. Strays Photo courtesy of The Saleroom. For those suddenly enthusiastic about vintage Zenith De Lucas that look an awful lot like the Daytona of the same time period, here's an excellent example, but if you'd rather a Zenith with a little more color and flash and water resistance, here's a great-looking vintage Defy. This Gübelin pocket watch is breath-arrestingly lovely, as are both of these (dog leg, non dog leg) 18k Omega Constellations. This Vintage Meister Anker chronograph is a catch-22 watch in that it looks really cool, but it's also got a plated case, and it's powered by an Ebauches Bettlach pin-lever movement, so proceed with caution. On September 18, Millon in Paris will host an auction that's listed as the "Collection Monsieur B," and whoever Monsieur B is, he's got phenomenal taste. Among the offerings are an Omega Chronometer Seamaster 'Sparkle' reference 168.022, a Universal Genève Polerouter Super, an Omega Holy Grail, a Sinn EZM 1, and a Zenith El Primero A386, but there are tons more you should go check out. Finally: Memosails forever. A Pair of Issued Smiths The British Ministry of Defense issued the Smiths W10 ...
Worn & Wound
Since its inception in 1969, Zenith’s groundbreaking El Primero movement – the first automatic, integrated, high-frequency chronograph caliber – has been synonymous with the classic complication. Now, Zenith takes the essence of this historically significant movement and highlights the high-frequency component with its first time-only application in the Chronomaster line. With the new Chronomaster Solo Sport, form and function go hand in hand. The three-hand display offers a design that is decidedly less sporty than its chronograph counterparts. However, the new collection continues a throughline we’ve seen within the Chronomaster lineup, making it both fresh and familiar to the model family. The Solo Sport has a 40mm build that fits well within the Chronomaster range of 37mm for the vintage-inspired revival models up to 41mm for the standard chronograph sport models. As we’ve also seen in the typical sport models, the Solo Sport models feature a ceramic, unidirectional rotating bezel. Ceramic extends to the dial, which presents a new “Z” pattern. Depending on the version – white, black, or brown – this pattern is engraved on either a sunray-finished white ceramic dial or a polished black or brown ceramic surface. Additionally, the black version is also offered in a no-date variant for a total of four Solo Sport styles. The “Z” motif is repeated once more on the stylization of the seconds hand. The more geometric elements of this dial design continue ...
SJX Watches
To commemorate Miles Davis’ many decades as a Navitimer man, Breitling has introduced the Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, based on the ref. 806 Mk5 favoured by the pioneering jazz musician. Limited to 500 pieces in steel — plus 50 more that are part of a three-watch set with counterparts in 18k yellow gold and platinum — the watch is available on an optional Air Racer bracelet, which makes a triumphant return. Initial thoughts Breitling has positioned this release as a commemorative watch for a singular musician, but it will likely appeal beyond Miles Davis fans. The design is tasteful without any overt references to Davis, with the only specific reference being the subtle case back engraving. The Miles Davis edition follows a formula established by Breitling’s very popular Navitimer ref. 806 reissue and the subsequent Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, and should prove tempting to collectors who missed out on those editions or who simply objected to the Cosmonaute’s 24-hour format. The return of the Air Racer bracelet on this edition is a surprise, since Miles Davis usually chose to accessorise his Navitimer with a black leather bund strap. Despite that incongruence, the Air Racer is period-correct and has been very nicely executed and updated. As a design it won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but I commend Breitling for experimenting with avant-garde bracelet designs like this, much like Zenith has done with the El Primero’s vintage-inspired ...
Hodinkee
What We Know Now in its sixth decade as one of the most famous movements in the industry, the El Primero remains at the heart of Zenith's offerings. To kick off Geneva Watch Days, Zenith is doing something slightly different, launching a Chronomaster Sport without a chronograph—the Chronomaster Solo Sport. The watch arrives in four variations: three with ceramic dials and bezels in black, white, and brown, plus a no-date option also in black. All four come in a 40mm stainless steel case with a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel. The dial features hours, minutes, and seconds, with date added on three of the four references. Despite losing the chronograph, there's still a lot going on up top. The words "36,000 VpH" and "high frequency" alone take up two lines of the dial, and the subtle "shark tooth" minute track gives a nod to vintage Zenith references. The dial itself is ceramic, built around a repeated 45° Z motif meant to evoke the rhythm and vibration of the movement underneath—rendered as a sunray finish on the white version and a polished surface on the black and brown versions. That same pattern carries over to the counterweight on the seconds hand. The El Primero 3620 powers the watch, derived from the El Primero 3600 chronograph movement and operating at 5 Hz, or 36,000 VpH, while retaining the star-shaped rotor. It's equipped with a silicon escapement and a stop-second mechanism for precise time-setting, and it offers a 60-hour power reserve. Also featur...
WristBuzz
From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.
Teddy Baldassarre
While the Chronomaster collection is typically associated with El Primero chronographs, the new Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport flips that notion on its head.
WatchAdvice
I take the new TAG Heuer Monaco Chronographs in blue and green for a hands-on review to see how this watchmaking icon has evolved for a new generation! What We Love: Improved ergonomics for slimmer wrists Distinctive dial colours with different personalities Substantially upgraded TH20-11 movement What We Don’t: Limited strap options Square case still wears large 13.9mm thickness remains noticeable Overall Rating: 8.7/10 Value for Money: 8.8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.7/10 Few watches in the world of horology are as instantly recognisable as the TAG Heuer Monaco. Even more than five decades after its introduction, the iconic timepiece’s square silhouette remains one of its most distinctive features. If you aren’t familiar with the story of the Monaco, it was first introduced in 1969—and it has quite the story behind it. The Monaco arrived during one of watchmaking’s most defining technical contests: the development of the first automatic chronograph. The birth of the Monaco was closely linked to the Calibre 11 movement, which was developed through a collaborative effort between Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton-Büren and chronograph specialist Dubois-Dépraz. The Calibre 11 was essentially part of a movement “race” against Zenith’s El Primero Calibre 3019 PHC and Seiko’s Calibre 6139. The new generation of TAG Heuer Monaco Chronographs presented in blue and green dials. Jack Heuer, who was one of the driving forces behind the Cal...
Monochrome
Paris is the inspiration behind this latest special edition again, but Zenith has done it differently this time. In 2024, the brand took cues from the city’s modern architecture and combined it with the sharp lines of the Defy Skyline Paris Edition. This time, however, Zenith has chosen its vintage-inspired El Primero watch, resulting in […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Zenith Chronomaster A384 Revival is a faithful, 1:1 resurrection of the very first steel watch to house the legendary El Primero movement back in 1969.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another showdown! This week’s battle pits two modern versions of classic chronographs against each other. Mike picked the recently revamped Breitling Chronomat, while Jorg picked the Zenith Chronomaster Original, the modern version of the Zenith El Primero A386. The roots of the Zenith date back to 1969, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 Vs. Zenith Chronomaster Original to read the full article.
Monochrome
In 2019, Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of the El Primero, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. Zenith’s high-frequency, integrated automatic chronograph movement was fitted inside three inaugural watches, including the A384, a bold tonneau-shaped case with a two-tone dial that reflected the design language of the period. As the United States gets ready to celebrate […]
SJX Watches
For much of the past quarter-century, Zenith has built its brand on the back of the El Primero — a fast-beating chronograph calibre that debuted in 1969. But last year — for its 160th anniversary — the brand revived the time-only calibre 135 – a legendary competition calibre originally developed in the late 1940s. The reborn movement debuted within a new collection — the GFJ — named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot. To better understand what lies behind the relaunch of the cal. 135, we talked to Romain Marietta, Chief Product Officer at Zenith. David Serra, Technical Director of Movement Development, provided additional production insights. As Mr Marietta explains, the relaunch of the cal. 135 opens a new chapter for Zenith — more exclusive and more artisanal, featuring precious materials, elevated finishing and a classical aesthetic inspired by the designs of the 1950s. In short, closer to the independent watchmakers’ approach and to their audience. And this is only the beginning — the Le Locle-based brand has plans to further develop both the calibre and the collection. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Let’s start at the beginning: what makes cal. 135 so special? Romain Marietta (RM): For context, it was produced from 1949 until 1962. At the time, the pursuit of precision had a real genuine meaning. Watchmakers measured their strength, stature and reputation through the prizes they won. This movement was created f...
Worn & Wound
Zenith has launched the latest version of their popular Chronomaster Revival A384, a line that takes the iconic case of the A384 and often plays with color and materials as a platform for a modern El Primero movement. The A384, for me, has always been the most interesting of the Zenith heritage releases. It feels truly transported from another time, fully intact, largely thanks to the iconic ladder bracelet that we often see included with these references (more on that in a minute). This particular release really leans into a very specific vintage look, and I imagine will be warmly welcomed by modern Zenith enthusiasts who appreciate and collect vintage Zenith as well. The story here, clearly, is the brown used as an accent color to evoke natural patina that vintage watch collectors often prize over perfectly preserved watches. A so-called “tropical” dial occurs over a long stretch of time when a watch is exposed to the outside world, the sun’s rays slowly fading the color present in the original dial. This will often result in a brown or tan color to emerge from black paint, which is particularly noticeable on chronographs with black subdials, which is what Zenith is going for here. But the “tropical” effect can, in theory, be applied to any color, and change blues, greens, and reds in unexpected ways. Here we have a white dial with a very subtle grain and brown subdials at 3, 6, and 9, for the chronograph minutes, chronograph hours, and running seconds, res...
Monochrome
For many people, 1969 is the year of the Apollo 11 Moon landing, Woodstock and the final live performance of The Beatles on a London rooftop. However, for watch enthusiasts, 1969 is the year Zenith unveiled the El Primero, the world’s first automatic, integrated chronograph calibre – and a high-frequency one to boot. Among the […]
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