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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

The Rose Gold SBGH368 Enters Grand Seiko’s Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Permanent Collection Perhaps Feb 12, 2025

The Rose Gold SBGH368 Enters Grand Seiko’s Permanent Collection

Perhaps the crown jewel of Grand Seiko’s automatic watches, the 62GS was the brand’s first to feature an automatic movement. Vintage 62GS pieces championed subtlety with small crowns, “bezel-less” crystals, and smooth, polished edges. The 62GS has lived on through many contemporary iterations, and most hold on to that understated elegance as a key design feature. The current lineup of Heritage Collection pieces reflects almost all the hallmarks of the 62GS that it’s based on, albeit with dials themed for the 24 solar terms of the Japanese sekki.  Grand Seiko’s newest 62GS piece continues the seasonal motif of the Heritage Collection lineup but adds even more color by enveloping it in 18-karat rose gold. This rose gold reference, SBGH368 in the Grand Seiko catalog, is meant to symbolize cherry blossoms covered in snow, featuring a textured copper pink dial encased in a dual curve sapphire crystal. The indices, dauphine hands, date window frame, and screw-down crown match the case material, as does Grand Seiko’s logo positioned just above the brand’s name, below the double-thick 12 marker. An exhibition case back showcases the Hi-Beat 9S85 automatic movement, which features 37 jewels and a 55-hour power reserve, as well as 100-meter water resistance.  In terms of sizing, the SBGH368’s case measures 38mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness, maintaining the standard specs of the 62GS line. The 20mm lug width promises easy strap-swapping, though the included...

Grand Seiko Scales Down the 62GS to 30 mm and Stays Mechanical SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Scales Down Feb 12, 2025

Grand Seiko Scales Down the 62GS to 30 mm and Stays Mechanical

Grand Seiko’s latest offering is unusual – it’s a 30 mm self-winding model specifically conceived for ladies, in contrast to the vast majority of the Grand Seiko catalogue that’s made up of men’s or mid-sized watches. The Heritage Collection 62GS Mechanical 30 mm measures just 10.5 mm thick, making it the brand’s slimmest mechanical model to date. Notably, the new 62GS pair, STGK031 and STGK033, are the first to adopt a case design found on men’s watches, refining it for a smaller format as a ladies model. Initial thoughts In my view, the 62GS case stands out as the most appealing configuration in Grand Seiko’s extensive lineup. While it retains a distinctly Japanese design heritage, it remains one of the few Grand Seiko models that blends vintage and modern styles. As an owner of the 40 mm 62GS, I can personally attest to its versatility on the wrist, largely due to its slim case profile. The new 62GS 30 mm is essentially a scaled down version of the 40 mm model. It stands out for being the first ladies’ models that adapt a design of a men’s watch. In contrast, earlier Grand Seiko ladies watches had a cushion-shaped case that is arguably less appealing since it doesn’t have a distinctive Grand Seiko style. While Grand Seiko’s continued emphasis on nature-inspired dials may feel somewhat overused, the 62GS 30 mm is priced similar to its men’s counterpart and still represents good value. 62GS The Grand Seiko catalogue does include mid-sized watches...

Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A White, Ivory, Or Pink Plissé Dial Fratello
Czapek Promenade Feb 11, 2025

Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A White, Ivory, Or Pink Plissé Dial

Last year, Czapek introduced the new Promenade collection. Its design combines influences from the brand’s Quai des Bergues and Antarctique lines. Apart from the hollowed-out lugs and mid-case, the watches look quite classic. However, the peculiar dial designs are the real stars of the Promenade collection. The same goes for the newly introduced Promenade Plissé, […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A White, Ivory, Or Pink Plissé Dial to read the full article.

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day Fratello
Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 Feb 9, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day

It has been a while since we covered Panerai’s Luminor Due collection. Mike wrote an article in 2019 when the brand went from the OPXXXIV to the new P.900 movement. He was a fan of the simpler Luminor Due models, mainly because of their dial design, the crown system, and the case shape. We thought […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day to read the full article.

Introducing: The New Artem Loop-less HydroFlex Straps Fratello
Feb 6, 2025

Introducing: The New Artem Loop-less HydroFlex Straps

Over the past few years, I’ve had the opportunity to sample most of the straps in the Artem catalog, and it’s always good stuff coming from the guys Down Under. The Adelaide, Australia-based brand makes luxury rubber straps with a sailcloth finish in various colors. Alongside traditional straps is the brand’s signature Loop-less™️ design without […] Visit Introducing: The New Artem Loop-less HydroFlex Straps to read the full article.

Omega Starts the Countdown to Cortina 2026 with an Omega Seamaster in Moonshine Gold Worn & Wound
Omega Starts Feb 6, 2025

Omega Starts the Countdown to Cortina 2026 with an Omega Seamaster in Moonshine Gold

Omega’s Olympic legacy spans decades and continents; the brand has served as Official Timekeeper at the Olympic Games an impressive 31 times since 1932, and is set to do so once again at the 2026 Winter Games in Milano Cortina, Italy. To celebrate that golden history, Omega has created a new Seamaster heritage model-the Seamaster 37mm Moonshine Gold Milano Cortina 2026. While the name is as exhausting as an Olympic biathlon, the Milano Cortina’s design and specs will be familiar. The titular Moonshine Gold is an 18-karat yellow gold alloy created by Omega in 2019, and boasts a paler color than similar gold alloys, and a high resistance to fading. Composed of silver, copper, and palladium, it lends an elegant opulence to the otherwise understated Seamster design. The Grand Feu enamel dial wears diamond-polished dauphine hands and Moonshine Gold hour markers and Omega logo, as well as a minute track in grey Petit Feu enamel. The simplicity of this design will likely please longtime Seamaster enthusiasts-the gold case and hands alongside muted minute markers brings to mind classic Seamaster De Ville timepieces from the 1960s, and the white dial looks as crisp and inviting as a freshly-polished ice rink.  The symmetrical Moonshine Gold case and hexagonal crown harken back to Omega’s original Seamaster Olympic watches, appearing most similar to the 1956 Melbourne edition. That watch also featured 18-karat gold, though the Milano Cortina is larger at 37mm in diameter ...

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial Fratello
Gerald Genta Feb 5, 2025

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial

One of last year’s biggest surprises was the reintroduction of the Credor Locomotive. The original watch from the 1970s was one of Gérald Genta’s lesser-known creations. As soon as you see it, though, you immediately recognize Genta’s characteristic design signature. Having said that, it’s a divisive design because of its quirky presence. I also had […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial to read the full article.

The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading Fratello
Feb 4, 2025

The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading

In the watch industry, people often toss around the term “gray market,” but they don’t always fully understand it. The gray market for watches refers to a network of unofficial sales channels through which sellers trade watches outside of the authorized distribution system. While this market is legal, it operates without the endorsement of the […] Visit The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading to read the full article.

Farer Reboots the Popular GMT Bezel Collection Worn & Wound
Farer Reboots Jan 30, 2025

Farer Reboots the Popular GMT Bezel Collection

There is always a risk when a product gets an upgrade (Crystal Pepsi, anyone?), but this is especially a touchy subject in the watch world. We, as collectors and enthusiasts, tend to keep things as they are. Small updates? Sure. Bold colorways? Absolutely. But being told there is a completely new design? Well, now I’m a bit weary. Luckily for me, I’ve been proven wrong by Farer. They’ve recently relaunched their GMT Bezel collection, boasting – you guessed it – a completely new design. Previous iterations of this model were a core offering of the brand, showcasing the balance between bold design language and a classic case style. Now, we see a new (and dare I say improved?) set of GMT Bezels on the market, whose main feature is the concave “ski-slope” lugs first seen on the Chrono-Contempo Collection.  If variety is the spice of life, then the GMT Bezels are pretty damn spicy. Coming in two size options (40mm and 38mm) and four colorways, this is a series that has a bit of something for everyone. I’ll review each of the four color options briefly, giving you a taste of how distinct – and yet cohesive – each reference feels. For the 40mm models, one can choose from Maze and Crooms options. Maze has a pearlescent grid patterned dial complemented by shades of glossy black, light blue, and red. Crooms exemplifies Farer’s in-house design language, with a clean overall design and a bold colorway mixed with additional pops of color. With its burgundy dial i...

Video Review – A Closer Look at the Blue Dial IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Let’s Jan 29, 2025

Video Review – A Closer Look at the Blue Dial IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

Let’s get up close and personal… We have already explored the revamped IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 in detail when it was launched in 2023, the same year that the Schaffhausen-based brand decided to give this long-lasting collection its 1976 Genta-inspired design back. More recently, what is now a strong contender in the luxury sports watch […]

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” - Not All Green, Not All Gray, But Definitely An Urwerk Fratello
Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” - Jan 29, 2025

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” - Not All Green, Not All Gray, But Definitely An Urwerk

Urwerk is confused. The brand doesn’t know if its new watch has a green or gray face, and a compromise entered the name. The Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” is sober green with hints of cool gray. Hunter green - Hex code #2c5f34 - is a lush, cool-toned green color between blue and green. If you […] Visit Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” - Not All Green, Not All Gray, But Definitely An Urwerk to read the full article.

Introducing – The Minimalist and Enigmatic Ulysse Nardin Blast x Amoureuxpeintre Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Blast x Amoureuxpeintre Jan 27, 2025

Introducing – The Minimalist and Enigmatic Ulysse Nardin Blast x Amoureuxpeintre

In what might be considered a surprising change of course, Ulysse Nardin announces its collaboration with Amoureuxpeintre, an edgy urban fashion designer who has been invited to reinterpret the Blast Skeleton X. Adopting the stark minimalism associated with Amoureuxpeintre’s design philosophy, the grey monochromatic suit and blurry, frosted windows of the Blast Skeleton X give […]

Aquastar Benthos H2: Revisiting the Past, With an Eye on the Present Two Broke Watch Snobs
Jan 25, 2025

Aquastar Benthos H2: Revisiting the Past, With an Eye on the Present

Aquastar's Benthos 500 holds an important spot in dive watch history. First unveiled in 1970, it stood out from the crowd with its unique chronograph-like functionality and slow-moving 60-minute elapsed-time counter. It was bold, unconventional, and ahead of its time-until the Quartz Crisis swept the industry off course. But what if quartz hadn't disrupted the market so quickly? The new Aquastar Benthos H2 wonders just that, providing a design inspired by archival drawings from the late '60s while moving it towards modern tastes and technologies.

Christopher Ward Introduces the Dune Aeolian Collection Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Jan 24, 2025

Christopher Ward Introduces the Dune Aeolian Collection

Watching Christopher Ward’s progression over the last twenty years has been a joy. From a plucky micro-brand, it has grown into the most significant watch brand in the UK. When watch industry veteran Mike Pearson joined their team as North American Brand Director about a year ago, I knew our side of the pond was in for a treat. It wasn’t long before he took Christopher Ward on the road throughout the continent, and luckily for me, one of the stops was in my backyard. We had been friends for years online, and this was finally an opportunity to meet in person. Seeing many Christopher Ward watches in the metal was also a great opportunity. It was a real treat to experience the Bel Canto in person and handle the newly released C60 Lumière dive watches. I was also incredibly excited to see the Twelve X, a piece I had written about a few months earlier. One item that was notably missing from the lineup was their Oracle collaborative piece, the C65 Dune Shoreline. This omission was understandable since it was limited to just 100 pieces. However, if you liked that design, we have some great news. Christopher Ward is launching a new collection called C65 Dune Aeolian, featuring textured wave dials, available in two case materials, with a GMT option. The Dune Aeolian Automatic features the stainless steel C65 light catcher case, which has a diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 11.9mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 43.7mm. This makes it universally wearable on wrists of all sizes. Ther...

First Look – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Purple Editions Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Purple Editions Jan 22, 2025

First Look – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Purple Editions

The TAG Heuer Carrera requires little to no introduction anymore. With its name inspired by the perilous Carrera Panamericana race, the model became one of the most iconic racing-inspired watches. Since its introduction in 1963, its design has evolved in many directions. Presented in 2023, marking the 60th anniversary of the collection, the handsome Carrera […]

Hot Take: The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli Fratello
Gerald Charles Jan 22, 2025

Hot Take: The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli

If you’ve never tried on a Gerald Charles watch, I suggest it. The shape is unconventional, but the fit is truly surprising. Now, to celebrate the brand’s 25th anniversary, the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli is here with reduced dimensions all around to further improve the wearing experience. I’ve probably mentioned it before, but the […] Visit Hot Take: The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli to read the full article.