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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

High-end and high-tech GMT duo: The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 and Yukigesho SBGJ271 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 Feb 15, 2023

High-end and high-tech GMT duo: The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 and Yukigesho SBGJ271

Another week, another couple of impressively featured Grand Seiko releases. Today’s offerings include an until-now limited edition-only chronograph and an addition to the Elegance GMT collection. The former, taking inspiration from the mighty lion emblazoned on Grand Seiko’s logo, is the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC253, dubbed the Tokyo Lion, extending the large feline inspiration … ContinuedThe post High-end and high-tech GMT duo: The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 and Yukigesho SBGJ271 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Withstand the heat with the new TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Orange Racing Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Orange Feb 15, 2023

HANDS-ON: Withstand the heat with the new TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Orange Racing

The sun sets at the 24 hours of Le Mans. It’s your umpteenth time around the track. And, as you make your way down the Mulsanne Straight, the sparks from your Porsche 911 RSR light up the night sky. That’s the image Porsche and TAG Heuer had in mind with their newest release, the fiery … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Withstand the heat with the new TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Orange Racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Brellum Throws Their Hat into the GMT Ring with the Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer Worn & Wound
Feb 14, 2023

Brellum Throws Their Hat into the GMT Ring with the Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer

Brellum is an up and coming independent brand that prides itself on its rich familial history in watchmaking. Founder Sebastian Muller can trace his family lineage of watchmakers all the way back to his great grandfather who set up his very own shop in 1910. The rest, as they say, is history. Brellum exists today with the intention of continuing the Mueller legacy by producing highly-crafted timepieces that, not only present with a thoughtful design for the modern day wearer, but to pay homage to their family’s passion for traditional Swiss watchmaking. Their surname is an anagram in the brand’s namesake afterall. Recently, the brand announced a very limited run of a handsome pilot’s chronograph equipped with a GMT function with the Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer. The dial is where the Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer shows a whole lot of flash without straying too far away from the traditional pilot’s watch aesthetic. And by flash, I mean that opalin silver-now dial. From the images, it seems that this dial has its own character all on its own, displaying a luster against radiant lighting, and then a more toned down matted white in neutral lighting. All of the dial markings use black as the main color for unmistakable legibility including the minute track, 24 hour display bordering the outer portion of the dial, and applied numeral hour markers. The subdials take up dial real-estate at six, twelve and nine with a date window sneaking into the six o’clock s...

Fratello and Aquastar Team Up for a Very Limited Version of the Deepstar II with an Ice Blue Dial Worn & Wound
Tudor Feb 14, 2023

Fratello and Aquastar Team Up for a Very Limited Version of the Deepstar II with an Ice Blue Dial

The Aquastar Deepstar II is the latest watch to get the limited edition treatment from our friends over at Fratello, and it might be the nicest looking iteration yet on the unapologetically vintage inspired diver. We first told you about the Deepstar II back in late 2021, when the watch made its debut in the afterglow of the cult favorite Deepstar Chronograph. These watches have an abundance of charm thanks to a well thought out asymmetry, excellent use of key vintage cues, and a size that is literally just about perfect for a watch of this style. As we pointed when the Deepstar II first came to our attention, dial color plays an outsize role in how the watch lands, and that holds true with the new Fratello version, which is very much the Deepstar we’ve come to know, but with nicely curated touches that give it a fresh life.  The word of the day when describing the Deepstar II is, without a doubt, “compact.” If you’re accustomed to big, bruising modern divers from Seiko, Tudor, and the like, strapping Deepstar II to your wrist will feel somewhat alien at first. The case measures 36.7mm wide and just 46mm lug to lug, but it’s 13mm thick, which makes these watches wear squat on the wrist with a presence you wouldn’t expect from the listed dimensions. Aquastar has always framed the Deepstar II as a thought experiment of sorts, imagining the type of diver the brand would have followed up the Deepstar Chronograph with back in the late 60s (unlike the chrono, this d...

Excelsior Park Introduces “The Soda Fountain” for Perpétuel SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Feb 14, 2023

Excelsior Park Introduces “The Soda Fountain” for Perpétuel

Since it was founded three years ago, Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel has released a number of well-applauded limited editions focused on up-and-coming independents and micro brands. It first began with the French brand Baltic through a limited release of the HMS and Bicompax, and more recently, the MR-01 Perpétuel, their spin on the brand’s best-selling micro-rotor wristwatch. The retailer has now tapped the services of Excelsior Park, a legacy brand that is based on the former watch company known for producing chronograph movements for the likes of Gallet, Girard-Perregaux and Zenith. After numerous failed attempts at reviving the brand in the 1980s and the 2000s, it was relaunched by watch industry veteran Guillaume Laidet who previously spearheaded the resurrection of legacy brands Nivada Grenchen and, more recently, Vulcain. After releasing a limited edition with a salmon dial that immediately sold out last year, they have teamed up once again to debut their latest collaboration in The Soda Fountain Edition, a limited release of the Excelsior EP95004 chronograph featuring a vibrant blue dial completed with applied Eastern-Arabic numerals. Initial thoughts The relaunch of Excelsior Park two years ago was kind of a godsend for vintage watch enthusiasts, given its long and rich history as a renowned movement maker. Since its rebirth, the brand has been carving itself a niche market catering towards a younger demographic who desire that vintage-styled watches but a...

New dials and dimensions for the King Seiko 110th Anniversary Time+Tide
Seiko 110th Anniversary Though Feb 14, 2023

New dials and dimensions for the King Seiko 110th Anniversary

Though the story of Seiko began almost 150 years ago, the first wristwatch wouldn’t come until three decades later, in 1913 with the Seiko Laurel. The brand recently paid homage to that exact piece with a modern re-issue, but the celebrations didn’t stop there. Despite the fact that King Seiko is no longer the brand … ContinuedThe post New dials and dimensions for the King Seiko 110th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

I DO: J.N. Shapiro just created the ultimate rings for watch lovers Time+Tide
Feb 13, 2023

I DO: J.N. Shapiro just created the ultimate rings for watch lovers

Watch enthusiasts love the idea of melding horology with milestone events. Think of a birthday watch, graduation watch, or 25-years-of-service watch, for example. One of the latest phenomenons is the idea of an engagement watch that’s presented as an alternative to an engagement ring or even as an equivalent offering for the groom. But for those … ContinuedThe post I DO: J.N. Shapiro just created the ultimate rings for watch lovers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: An Appraisal of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are Feb 13, 2023

Editorial: An Appraisal of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle

Audemars Piguet recently launched more than a dozen new models and predictably it was the Royal Oaks that got the most attention. But the most impressive new release was unquestionably the Code 11.59 Universelle. It’s a grand complication that boasts multiple complications most cleverly executed, in a remarkably compact case – the size of the watch is an achievement in itself. Though the Universelle is positively slender for a grand complication, it’s still a large watch. But criticising the Universelle for its somewhat ungainly looks is to miss the point completely. Just like a mid-engine Ferrari will never be a roomy vehicle capable of conveying four adults in comfort, a grand complication will never be a svelte watch. Even Francois-Paul Journe, a legendary talent who has long specialised in slim complications, needs a lot of volume to contain his most complicated watch, the double-sided Astronomic Souveraine. Grand complications, or more specifically mega complications, like the Universelle, are never pretty. That’s simply a matter of necessity – the mechanical complexity inevitably results in an enormous case and confusing dial. The F.P. Journe Astronomic, Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, and Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are all equally large and confusing. The Astronomic is the smallest of the lot and it’s still 44 mm by 13.7 mm. And the Grandmaster Chime is a titanic 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. I can confirm the Grandmaster Chime is titanic no matter ho...

In Conversation with Raynald Aeschlimann About the New Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Spirate Revolution
Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Spirate Feb 13, 2023

In Conversation with Raynald Aeschlimann About the New Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Spirate

Technical innovation has always been at the heart of Omega. From the Speedmaster being the first watch to be flight-qualified by NASA for manned space flight to the industrialisation of the co-axial escapement, Omega remains at the vanguard of pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. 10 years in the making, Omega’s new Spirate hairspring system takes […]

MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick Time+Tide
Fears Feb 13, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick

Some extinct brands that get revived for the modern mechanical boom are often raised in mystery, bought out by private companies who heap glory on their adopted heritage to distract from the lack of modern substance. Fears is the direct opposite of that, not only being reincarnated by a member of the original family but … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Citizen Seiko Feb 12, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph

Welcome to episode 36 of A Week in Watches! We tackle a packed week of news from the likes of Audemars Piguet, Citizen, Seiko, and the return of Meraud with an incredibly charming chronograph called the Antigua. Audemars Piguet dropped plenty of new watches on the world this week, including their most complicated watch ever, the RD4 in the Code 11:59 body. Read more of our thoughts on the new AP releases right here. Seiko revealed a new movement in a trio of new King Seiko references, as well as a special 110th Anniversary King Seiko with a beautiful geometric brown dial. Finally, we discuss a sophomore release from the brand Meraud, who impressed us with their Antigua, a colorful hand wound chronograph with a rather unexpected movement. You can read more of our thoughts on this watch in this hands-on review. Catch all this and more in the full episode below, and be sure to subscribe for more great watch content. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.

HANDS-ON: The Tusenö Windseeker is a handsome watch with 1970s swagger Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Tusenö Windseeker is a handsome watch with 1970s swagger

These days it’s not as impressive as it once was to have a successfully funded Kickstarter campaign. If you have a watch with an original design that offers good value for money, then you’ve got a great chance of hitting your goal. What’s not as easy to do is become your country’s most funded watch … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tusenö Windseeker is a handsome watch with 1970s swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ35 & SNJ039 bring new colours to cult classics Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SRPJ35 & SNJ039 Feb 11, 2023

VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ35 & SNJ039 bring new colours to cult classics

Seiko is back with two new limited editions in their Prospex tool watch line, and they both feature a bright new colourway that evokes the brilliant hues of tropical fish. This time, the new colours are featured on Seiko’s classic Turtle diver, and the big, bold “Arnie” analogue/digital model. Let’s dive in and have a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ35 & SNJ039 bring new colours to cult classics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra Feb 11, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra

The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra teams up with the popular Formula E racing team. The Mahindra Racing logo can be seen etched into the dial pattern. The red and black case is made from upcycled ocean plastic. The conversation of recycled plastic cases has been by and large overshadowed by the popularity of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Prashanth P. Worn & Wound
Nomos Orion Duo – $1,600 Feb 10, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Prashanth P.

Editor’s Note: In this Three Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Prashanth P. gives us a detailed look into their focused yet diverse collection. We love it for its unique point of view, and charming personality. See more from Prashanth on Instagram @watchesbringmejoy You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. I’ve read and enjoyed some of the earlier iterations in this series, but was unaware until recently that readers could submit an entry.  I am certain that a significant portion of watch enthusiasts, myself included, have performed similar mental exercises for fun (“If I had X budget, what watches would I get?”).  The twist here is that I will be selecting watches from my own tightly curated (that’s fancy for small) collection.  I rotate four watches, so one of them will probably be upset at being passed over.  Don’t worry, I’ll give it some extra wear time in the upcoming days to assuage any lingering bad feelings.  To me, watch collections live at the intersection of lifestyle (including budget) and personal style.  I hope you enjoy this glimpse at my address. Nomos Orion Duo – $1,600 I’m no fashion maven, but I enjoy dressing up, even if opportunities to do so have dwindled during the pandemic. This first pick is something that I consider my smart watch – the space between ‘smart’ and ‘watch’ being key here. It’s a Nomos Orion Duo, 33mm of manually winding Ba...

Examining the Doctor Strange Watch: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Teddy Baldassarre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 10, 2023

Examining the Doctor Strange Watch: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin

Spotting and identifying watches worn in movies is one of the most popular pastimes among wristwatch aficionados as well as serious cinephiles. Most of the time, such watches serve largely as props, elements of a character’s wardrobe and/or equipment that help to define who that character is: who could forget, for example, Steve McQueen's Heuer Monaco in Le Mans or Daniel Craig's Omega Seamaster in Casino Royale? Every so often, a timepiece plays a more pivotal storytelling role, as was the case of a very recognizable, albeit harshly damaged Jaeger-LeCoultre watch in the 2016 Marvel film Doctor Strange, and more recently in its sequel, 2022’s Doctor Strange in the Multiverse of Madness.  Benedict Cumberbatch plays the title character in the movie, world-renowned neurosurgeon Doctor Stephen Strange, and in classic Marvel origin-story tradition, the first time we meet him  he is anything but heroic. While he uses his brilliant mind and skilled hands to save lives, his motivation for doing so tends to be more financial than altruistic. He turns down patients who can’t afford his enormous fees, treats co-workers callously, and generally embraces the high-end trappings that his fame and wealth affords him, including a Lamborghini and a drawer full of high-end timepieces meticulously mounted on winder cuffs- among them, according to sharp-eyed viewers, a Rolex Daytona and TAG Heuer Monaco.  The watch that Strange appears to hold in particularly high regard is the one ...

Citizen Promaster Dive (You Know the One) Gets Full Lume Dial Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Dive You Know Feb 10, 2023

Citizen Promaster Dive (You Know the One) Gets Full Lume Dial

I haven’t been shy about sharing my adoration for this particular Promaster Dive watch from Citizen. Zach Kazan and I wrote about our impressions as owners of the same variant of this watch, with a perfectly unsubtle blue camo dial, and it’s a watch we both come back to often. To me, Citizen is at their best when they lean into the slightly strange, and they’ve got a number of designs that qualify, including these wonderful Ecozilla “ashtray” watches recently released. If camo isn’t quite your thing (I don’t blame you), their latest take on this platform might be right up your alley. And if you are into camo, you’ll probably still like it as well. The latest Promaster Dive uses the same fabulous gunmetal titanium case, but pairs it with a full lume dial and a bright orange minute hand.  Lume dials are a tricky thing to pull off properly, but here it feels like a totally natural extension of the design of this watch. It feels right at home. The camo execution was funky enough to jive with the unusual case design, but the full lume feels like a more practical solution to bring a unique level of clarity and contrast to the watch as a whole. It takes a near novelty level watch to a supremely practical level of watch. Like the Aqualand JP2007-17W, the lume dial here is a light creamy green color that jumps off the black backdrop of the case and bezel. The hour plots are filled with lume of nearly the same color, but appear a bit brighter after a flash of light ...

G-SHOCK’s Latest Titanium Release Combines the Aesthetics of a Circuit Board with Camouflage to Great Effect Worn & Wound
Feb 10, 2023

G-SHOCK’s Latest Titanium Release Combines the Aesthetics of a Circuit Board with Camouflage to Great Effect

G-SHOCK has had a string of successful releases over the past few years with full metal watches that incorporate some type of interesting, laser engraved design. It turns out that the G-SHOCK case and bracelet is a surprisingly versatile canvas for compelling camo designs, sci-fi influenced schematics, and the touch of an actual artist. With this latest release, the design influence is actually G-SHOCK itself, using the design of their own circuit board as a jumping off point for a very contemporary watch that pays tribute to the brand’s roots.  The G-SHOCK Circuit Camouflage, reference GMWB5000TCC1, is billed as a titanium version of the very first G-SHOCK, the famed DW-5000C. You’ll note that the new watch shares the same iconic case lines as that early G-SHOCK release, just in titanium, rather than resin. The camo-like design that has been laser etched on the case and bracelet is a real G-SHOCK insider’s treat. The pattern is lifted from the 3459 circuit board found in the GMWB5000 series watches, and has been meticulously recreated using some fairly high end manufacturing techniques.  The base of the watch is a coating of black IP. This ion plating technique has been the go-to process for G-SHOCK in virtually all of their recent coated metal watches. The circuit board pattern is drawn twice using a laser irradiation process, once prior to the black IP coating, and then again after. According to G-SHOCK, this process gives the pattern a depth that would not othe...

Citizen’s Fully Lumed Promaster Diver Is Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop! Worn & Wound
Citizen s Fully Lumed Promaster Feb 10, 2023

Citizen’s Fully Lumed Promaster Diver Is Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop!

Originally introduced in 1982, Citizen’s iconic Professional Diver watch achieved the highest depth rating of any watch in the world, up to an incredible 1300 meters. The initial release of the watch in the 1980s featured many of the same design elements as its modern predecessor, including the lug-less case, smooth lines, and chunky 60-click bezel. Today, we’re proud to announce that a new version of the watch is now available in the Windup Watch Shop, and this one features a fully-lumed dial. Originally introduced in 1982, Citizen’s iconic Professional Diver watch achieved the highest depth rating of any watch in the world, up to an incredible 1300 meters. The initial release of the watch in the 1980s featured many of the same design elements as its modern predecessor, including the lug-less case, smooth lines, and chunky 60-click bezel. Today, we’re proud to announce that a new version of the watch is now available in the Windup Watch Shop, and this one features a fully-lumed dial. The post Citizen’s Fully Lumed Promaster Diver Is Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Piaget goes PC, Norqain goes wild with NHL, and FC is living the highlife Time+Tide
Norqain goes wild Feb 10, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Piaget goes PC, Norqain goes wild with NHL, and FC is living the highlife

Another Friday, another Wind Down, another recap of some highlight releases you may have missed this week. Let’s get into them. Piaget presents a perpetual calendar Polo Perpetual calendar complication makes its debut in modern Polo line Features dark iridescent green dial, interchangeable straps, and a slender 8.65mm thickness Priced approximately 4.5x more than the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Piaget goes PC, Norqain goes wild with NHL, and FC is living the highlife appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.