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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

Kylie Jenner’s five year old daughter Stormi is the latest to join our “Ice, Ice, Baby” list with solid gold Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 10, 2023

Kylie Jenner’s five year old daughter Stormi is the latest to join our “Ice, Ice, Baby” list with solid gold Rolex

The lives of the rich and famous may not be relatable for everyone, but there is something kinda sweet about a parent letting their child wear something of theirs. In some instances, celebrities take it to the next level, gifting highly luxurious objects such as timepieces to their young children. In such instances we see … ContinuedThe post Kylie Jenner’s five year old daughter Stormi is the latest to join our “Ice, Ice, Baby” list with solid gold Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Tokyo 2023

The flagship model in Patek Philippe’s special edition line-up for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, the Quadruple Complication Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5308P-010 is an entirely new reference that becomes one of the most complicated watches in the Patek Philippe catalogue. Described as a quadruple complication because it has a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and a twin chronograph, the ref. 5308P is a direct evolution of the ref. 5208. Both are essentially alike, save for the addition of the split-seconds mechanism in the ref. 5308P. Initial thoughts Like all of Patek Philippe’s top-of-the-line grand comps, the ref. 5308P is an imposing and heavy watch that makes a statement on the wrist (unlike the relatively compact ref. 5330G World Time created for the same event). And with the “rose-gilt opaline” dial, this is also visually striking and definitely hard to miss. Though it might seem similar to the ref. 5208, with only an additional seconds hand to set them apart, the ref. 5308P incorporates some interesting technical tweaks, including a revised isolator mechanism for the split seconds. Still, like the ref. 5208, the ref. 5308P is a modular grand complication with the perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronographs made up of modules stacked up under the dial. This is arguably a less sophisticated solution then an integrated chronograph (a perpetual calendar is conventionally a module regardless). Four comps The ref. 5308P has a dial in “ro...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023

Having just opened the doors of the Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, Patek Philippe also revealed the special editions created for the event, including the World Time Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5330G-10. Limited to 300 watches available only in Japan, the ref. 5330G-010 is the brand’s first world time with a date display. It features a guilloche dial in purple, the thematic hue of the exhibition, along with subtle references to Japan on the dial. Initial thoughts While the ref. 5330G-010 is not the flagship complication of the Watch Art Tokyo 2023 event – that title is claimed by the ref. 5308P Quadruple Complication – the new World Time is quintessential Patek Philippe. For one, the world time complication, though not invented by Patek Philippe, is strongly associated with the brand. At the same time, the date display is both practical and incorporated in an elegant manner, while the mechanics behind the date are sophisticated and thin as is typical of the brand’s approach to movements. Also in its favour are the discreet and tasteful references to Japan on the dial. But while the plum dial is striking and rich, the colour might not be for everyone. But putting aside the colour, the ref. 5330G-010 is an appealing watch. It is limited to just 300 pieces sold only in Japan, which makes availability at retail non-existent for most, but fortunately the ref. 5330 will almost certainly make it into the catalogue as a regular production model, as past exhi...

Citizen Announces Fresh Divers for the Summer, Including a New Fujitsubo and Smaller Promaster Dive Watches Worn & Wound
Citizen Announces Fresh Divers Jun 9, 2023

Citizen Announces Fresh Divers for the Summer, Including a New Fujitsubo and Smaller Promaster Dive Watches

If ever there was a time in the market for a reinvigoration of classics, it’s now. And one could argue, with the releases coming out of Citizen in June, that the Japanese brand is leading the way. From reworking one of their most iconic lines to adding a fuller scope to their existing collections, Citizen has made it a mission this Summer to provide a variety of exciting, elegant, and even eco-conscious alternatives to other watches in their existing line-up. For June, Citizen will be releasing three watch collections: the much-anticipated 37mm Promaster Dive, the Promaster Dive Automatic Super Titanium “Fujitsubo”, and the UNITE with BLUE Collection. Each one remains a variation on an existing theme within the Citizen universe, but with surprising, and sometimes intriguing, differences. 37mm Promaster Dive Dive watches entering everyday wear has been on the rise over the last decade and it seems that the new Promaster Dive is where Citizen has gotten their sea legs. By reducing the 44mm size to a more wearable 37mm, it not only makes the dive watch feel slightly less sporty, but also less clunky when worn with a long-sleeved shirt. This, in turn, will appeal to a wider audience and reintroduce the Promaster to a new generation of fans. Usually when there is a reduction in real estate on a watch, certain features have to be conceded for space. Not so with the smaller Promaster Dive. Citizen has made a conscious effort to keep all the reasons longtime divers love this...

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver There are Jun 9, 2023

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver

There are plenty of things we can choose to be frustrated by in the watch world. Rising prices, the increased importance of mysterious social media algorithms, outright chicanery, nonsense, and shenanigans in the auction world. Yes, these are forces contributing to making the hobby a little less enjoyable at times. But I like to focus on the bright spots, of which I’d argue there are more than enough to get excited about. One of those bright spots is the reemergence and wide availability of affordably priced, classic designs from thoughtfully resurrected heritage brands. Guillaume Laidet has become something of a specialist in this area, playing an integral role in the return of Vulcain, Excelsior Park, and Nivada Grenchen, the subject of this hands-on.  For a time, it seemed like a month couldn’t pass without a “new” brand that went dormant during the quartz crisis coming back with an updated version of their most popular model. So many of these attempts to capitalize on the popularity of vintage, neo-vintage, or whatever we’re calling it wound up failing, but the Nivada Grenchen strategy always felt different, and the brand continues to be successful a few years out from the relaunch because of Laidet’s forward thinking. Beyond the overall quality of the watches, which is consistently high, Nivada has always been presented as a real brand, and not simply a vehicle for launching one, or maybe two, watches. The idea of having a real collection for consumers to...

The Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa is a playful tribute to Coco Chanel Time+Tide
Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa Jun 9, 2023

The Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa is a playful tribute to Coco Chanel

The latest ode to Coco Chanel is the Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa. It shows Coco Chanel in a more androgynous style which she paved the way for in women’s fashion. The image is inspired from a photo at her La Pausa villa in 1930. As the only fashion designer to be named in Time … ContinuedThe post The Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa is a playful tribute to Coco Chanel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever Time+Tide
Breguet Type XX Jun 9, 2023

The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever

When you think of Breguet watches, the first word that comes to mind is probably guilloché. The maison is widely celebrated for their engine-turned dials, truly decorated by hand in a world where many other brands have moved towards stamping them. But Breguet is by no means one-dimensional. Sure, the brand’s namesake makes you think … ContinuedThe post The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Junghans Meister Pilot models put a fresh twist on pilot’s watches Time+Tide
Junghans Meister Pilot models put Jun 9, 2023

The new Junghans Meister Pilot models put a fresh twist on pilot’s watches

Junghans adds three new versions to the Meister Pilot collection The new dial colours include sand and navy blue A rich history complements great value for money Even if it seems like it, not every pilot’s watch has to look the same. The Junghans Meister Pilot is a novel take on a concept that’s in … ContinuedThe post The new Junghans Meister Pilot models put a fresh twist on pilot’s watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph

Drawing inspiration from the Kinetic Chronograph of 1999, Seiko’s latest is the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph. It is equipped with a new solar movement that has the ability to measure elapsed time with a resolution of up to 1/100th of a second, though its defining attribute is the design: the chronograph and time displays are separated into individual sub-dials. The SFJ007 made for the 2023 World Athletics Championships Initial thoughts Seiko’s sports chronographs, particularly those equipped with quartz or solar-powered movements, receive less recognition than their higher-end counterparts. However, some of the brand’s recent endeavours in this segment are interesting, and this is one of them. The primary point of interest in the new model lies in its unique aesthetic with a separated sub-dial design that fans of the brand recognise from the Kinetic Chronograph. The new Speedtimer reimagines the design with a smart and highly-functional movement and price tag of well under US$1,000, making it a compelling option for someone seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The Kinetic Chronograph from 1999. Image – Seiko Up to 1/100th of a second Having done away with the original closed dial of the Kinetic Chronograph, the Speedtimer features four registers beneath a curved sapphire crystal. Positioned at six is an oversized sub-dial displaying the time, while a 1/10th of a second chronograph sits at ten. The running seconds can be observed at 12, and a ...

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Treads Familiar Ground With The Twelve Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Jun 8, 2023

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Treads Familiar Ground With The Twelve

‘Integrated bracelet sport watch’ is likely a term you’re getting sick of hearing. The genre has reached a saturation point, it would seem. However, some of the new watches that find themselves in this category are indeed quite compelling. Watches like the new IWC Ingenieur, the Zenith Defy Skyline, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, and most recently, a surprising entry from Christopher Ward called The Twelve, which we introduced to you when it was launched heading into our Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco. With this watch, Christopher Ward is staking a claim to the genre outside of its usual luxury connotations. Where the IWC, the Zenith, and the G-P (as well as many others) are priced around $10,000 or more, The Twelve hits the market in the much more palatable $1,000 range. The Twelve is well positioned to capitalize on the trend of the integrated bracelet sport watch in a way many others in this price range are not. They’ve built plenty of equity in the space, and have even brought some typically high-end collectors into their flock with the likes of the Bel-Canto. Where that watch embraced a level of originality, The Twelve is a direct interpretation of a well trodden design language, and Christopher Ward makes no bones about it being exactly that. In fact, whatever your thoughts on the watch itself, there’s something admirable about the recognition Christopher Ward is giving some of the all-time greats of the genre, while at the same time placing their own w...

Iconic Watches: The Ultimate List Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 8, 2023

Iconic Watches: The Ultimate List

The definition of an iconic watch is, of course, highly subjective, and a consensus on what makes a watch iconic is just about impossible to achieve. However, most of us likely agree on several key points. An iconic watch should be timeless in its appeal, influential in its design, and impactful in its market presence. Ideally, an iconic watch should also be one that has remained true to its original conception throughout the years and recognizable by even the most casual of watch enthusiasts. Often, a watch becomes iconic when it becomes associated with a celebrity or other historical figure, and some achieve iconic status simply by being the trailblazer for a certain complication or now-ubiquitous function or element. Our team took all of these factors into account while tackling the bold and frankly somewhat intimidating task of listing the world's most iconic watches. As you'll note upon reading the list, each watch we chose is defended with its Case for Icon Status based on the above criteria. Scroll down to read the list, which includes one iconic movement (you can probably guess which one) and four timepieces that might be a bit too new on the scene for definitive inclusion but which we can confidently call the Icons of Tomorrow. Of course, any listing such as this is guaranteed to generate opinions, which we encourage you to share in the comments section at the bottom. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 History: Even though the Lange 1 has only been on the scene since 1994,...

Get Ready for Summer with the VERO x ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Jun 8, 2023

Get Ready for Summer with the VERO x ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition

This version of the Workhorse is a limited edition collaboration between VERO and ADPT (“adapt” All Day, Purpose, and Terrain). A bright and colorful take on this modern sports watch, the collaboration utilizes the unique properties of Cerakote to create a bold aqua exterior with white flecks for a unique style. Aqua, white, fuschia, and a touch of yellow come together for a fun, summery look that still functions as a rugged tool watch. The post Get Ready for Summer with the VERO x ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Jun 7, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph

Two years ago, Louis Vuitton unveiled the Tambour Street Diver, a livelier iteration of its longstanding Tambour dive watch. Now the brand debuts the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph, adding further a stopwatch to the nautical-inspired aesthetic. Together, the two Street Divers now form the entry-level of the brand’s mechanical watch offerings, which progress upwards into seven-figure, minute-repeater-with-automaton territory. Initial thoughts The new chronograph is a natural progression from its predecessor, retaining the elements of a traditional dive watch, including a less-common inner rotating bezel, while incorporating Louis Vuitton’s bold and modern styling, including the tall, drum-shaped case. The design is as much “street” as it is “diver”, and very much in keeping with the brand’s aesthetic. Both the case and dial are executed well, although the two-tone case might not be to everyone’s taste. Enthusiasts, however, will note the ETA movement inside. The movement is reliable and robust, though the US$11,105 price tag deserves a more interesting calibre. That said, given Louis Vuitton’s well-funded ambitions in watchmaking, it is a certainty that the brand will soon roll out in-house calibres in all price segments of its catalogue. Nautically inspired The new chronograph available in two variations: Skyline Blue (blue with metallic sun-ray finish) and Neon Black (matte black), each matched with a case colour in the same colour. Both have the same ...

The Breguet Type XX (and the Type 20!) are Back in a Pair of Vintage Inspired New References Worn & Wound
Breguet Type XX Jun 7, 2023

The Breguet Type XX (and the Type 20!) are Back in a Pair of Vintage Inspired New References

When it comes to pilot chronographs, particularly military inspired pilot chronographs, the Type XX sits at the top of a very large pile of well loved and highly collectible watches. Most often associated with Breguet, the Type XX is analogous to the “Dirty Dozen” W.W.W. field watches produced by a number of manufacturers in the WWII years on a contract basis for the British Ministry of Defense. In the case of the Type XX, it was the French military who contracted watchmakers to create a high spec chronograph. The requirements were specific and rigid: black dials, chrono registers at 3:00 and 9:00, the capability to time events up to 30 minutes, a 38mm case, and a 12 hour bezel among them. Mathey-Tissot and Dodane were among the brands charged with manufacturing these watches along with Breguet. Over the years, the style of this simple pilot’s chronograph has influenced countless other brands and has been straight up copied by many, and along the way it became a staple of the modern Breguet lineup. That is, until the contemporary Type XX was discontinued a few years ago. Now, the Type XX is back in a fairly big way, in two different versions with two different names that I promise are not confusing at all.  Announced yesterday, Breguet has unveiled an all new Type XX (the civilian version) and a Type 20 (the military version). References 2067 and 2057, respectively, both carry aesthetic elements from classic versions of the watch, but have some subtle (and also some...

A Preview of the Upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches Auction, Including Paul Newman Racing Gear, and Some Gorgeous Breguets Worn & Wound
Breguet s Jun 7, 2023

A Preview of the Upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches Auction, Including Paul Newman Racing Gear, and Some Gorgeous Breguets

The Sotheby’s Important Watches sale is set to take place on June 9 in New York. A total of 135 lots are set to go under the hammer, with an interesting mix of vintage and modern watches among them. As with any major auction, there are too many great lots to do all of them proper justice, but our editorial team studied the catalog and a handful of watches (and other items) jumped out at us. From unique Paul Newman racing ephemera, to cool clocks and a whole bunch of Breguet, there’s something here for any watch enthusiast (or movie fan) to get excited about. Here are some of the highlights, chosen by Zach Kazan, Blake Buettner, and Zach Weiss. Zach Kazan Lots 28 and 29: Paul Newman Racing Ephemera  While the centerpiece of the upcoming Important Watches sale at Sotheby’s is a Daytona owned by Paul Newman, the lots that make this auction truly unique and special are Newman related, but not actually watches at all. After all, we’ve done the Paul Newman Daytona thing. But what we haven’t done, at least not in a watch collecting milieu, a racing suit. Along with a truly superlative selection of watches, Sotheby’s has some great Paul Newman racing ephemera that goes a long way toward reminding us that the watch that has become synonymous with his name wasn’t a prop, or part of a costume. He wore it because it was a watch for race car drivers, and Paul Newman was a race car driver.  Lot 49 is a cream colored racing jumpsuit worn by Newman on at least two occasion...

5 Summer-Friendly Watches from the Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Jun 7, 2023

5 Summer-Friendly Watches from the Windup Watch Shop

Whether it’s a watch with a fun pop of color, or something super functional for that impromptu jump in a pool, picking out a new summer-ready watch is the perfect excuse to go shopping. Today, we’re going over five of our favorite watches that will make an ideal wrist companion for all of your summer trips, dips, and more. Read on to learn more about a classically-styled diver, a go anywhere, do anything hybrid, the most colorful watch in the shop, and more. Whether it’s a watch with a fun pop of color, or something super functional for that impromptu jump in a pool, picking out a new summer-ready watch is the perfect excuse to go shopping. Today, we’re going over five of our favorite watches that will make an ideal wrist companion for all of your summer trips, dips, and more. Read on to learn more about a classically-styled diver, a go anywhere, do anything hybrid, the most colorful watch in the shop, and more. The post 5 Summer-Friendly Watches from the Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters Time+Tide
Jun 7, 2023

The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters

I’ve often sung RZE’s praises as one of the few microbrands to have kept their prices as low as possible while providing fantastic specifications, and not giving in to the temptation of price gouging or corner-cutting. After they released the bang-for-buck Valour 38 to compete for field supremacy, and brought the best-selling Endeavour case to … ContinuedThe post The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration Time+Tide
Jun 7, 2023

The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration

Despite the obvious links to a passion for photography, it seems as though the chief mission for Horage is to redefine the meaning of ‘tool watch’. With cameras taking the bulk of the design inspiration, the photography links are merely an outlet for that proof of concept. Creating a beautiful, high-end watch can still be … ContinuedThe post The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The OWO & House of Bovet Special Edition 19Thirty is a truly exclusive watch Time+Tide
Casio nally there’s something special Jun 7, 2023

The OWO & House of Bovet Special Edition 19Thirty is a truly exclusive watch

It’s not often I get to write about watches that can’t be bought, but occasionally there’s something special enough to warrant exploration. I have already delved deep into the history of Bovet, from their familial ancestry in Fleurier to their absolute dominance in 19th century Canton. Despite some struggles in the past, The House of … ContinuedThe post The OWO & House of Bovet Special Edition 19Thirty is a truly exclusive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ralph Lauren’s Stirrup Gets a Refresh with New Straps, and Some Additional Thoughts on the 4th Watch Worn & Wound
Jun 6, 2023

Ralph Lauren’s Stirrup Gets a Refresh with New Straps, and Some Additional Thoughts on the 4th Watch

Last week, Blake wrote an editorial examining the idea of the so-called “4th watch,” and I’ve been thinking about it ever since. I can feel myself heading into what I have a feeling will come to be known as the Summer of the Fourth Watch. I find that when I’m picking out a watch for the day, the normal stuff doesn’t catch my eye. I’m drawn to bright colors, unusual shapes, and left of the middle executions more than I normally am, and my “normal” is kind of weird to begin with. For whatever reason, though, I’m in a season of experimentation and, frankly, boredom with the obvious choices. It’s possible that come fall, I could have a box full of 4th watches.  So it’s with this frame of mind that I’m approaching the latest announcement from Ralph Lauren, a refresh of their Stirrup watch collection featuring a selection of colorful interchangeable leather straps. Am I going to buy a Stirrup watch? Probably not. Almost certainly not. I can’t imagine it. But I can see the appeal of these as a potential 4th watch.  The truth is, I’ve always been a fan of Ralph Lauren watches. They tend to have clean, classic designs, and the watches themselves are very well made. Many belong in another watch category we like to talk about here, the Sleeper. There are truly high end and beautifully finished Ralph Lauren watches that are hiding under the cover of the dreaded “fashion watch” designation, but these aren’t mass produced, hastily licensed junk. They ...