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Monochrome
The year 1806 marks an important moment in Louis Moinet’s history, when the master watchmaker created a clock for Napoleon Bonaparte, a landmark commission that symbolised both prestige and ambition. It is after this date that the brand names its latest creation, the 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire, reaffirming its historic importance and renewing its pursuit of […]
![Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2025 Highlights [Live From Geneva]](https://www.fratellowatches.com/cdn-cgi/image/anim=false/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/GWD-2024-b-roll-geneva-1.jpg)
Fratello
As Geneva Watch Days 2025 draws to a close, it’s time to look back at some of our highlights from the fair. This bonus Fratello Talks episode was recorded on location at Piaget’s boutique in Geneva, where the team had the opportunity to experience Geneva Watch Days 2025 and all the novelties presented. Set against […] Visit Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2025 Highlights [Live From Geneva] to read the full article.
Monochrome
Since its debut, the Angles collection has been the cornerstone of Beda’a. Instantly recognisable with its octagonal bezel set upon a sharply angled case middle, the watch embodies geometric precision and refined minimalism. Its stepped layers are finished with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, giving the design an architectural presence that appeals to both men […]
Fratello
Independent watchmaking has a special kind of magic. It is where bold ideas meet artisanal execution, free from the constraints of mass production, design by committee, and shareholder interests. Few embody this spirit more convincingly than Sylvain Berneron, whose debut model, the 2023 Mirage, was met with instant critical acclaim. With his second creation, the […] Visit Introducing: The Innovative Berneron Quantième Annuel to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The newest release by independent brand Furlan Marri adds a bit of bling to an out-of-this-world Art Deco staple. The brand teased their release of the new Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds this April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, after the success of the line’s initial debut last year (which was covered here by Zach Kazan). The addition of diamonds on watches is something I have thought about often. My existence as a woman in the watch world frequently demands a more honest reflection about the intersection of watches and jewelry, and where my preferences fit in. Diamonds can either elevate or detract from a watch as a whole. One of the perks of reviewing watches is that I get to experience a large variety of designs that push the boundaries of my comfort zone and expose me to references that cover a wide array of aesthetics. I’ve been able to wear teeny-tiny little somethings and classically-inspired beauties that often belie the usual style of my personal collection. Certainly, I consider myself a more critical and informed collector because of it. Diamonds can be divisive – something I covered in my analysis of the release of the Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds last year. I will be the first to admit that when I see “diamonds” in the name of a new watch, my defenses go up a bit and I brace myself for subtly garish wealth-signaling disguised as intentional design choices. But when it comes to the new Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds, I was so relieved to be pro...
SJX Watches
On the ninth episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore sit down to discuss recent watch launches during Geneva Watch Days, highlighting standout pieces like the hand-made Ferdinand Berthoud (the first of which will be sold at auction) and the Berneron annual calendar, and also reflecting on the flavours of the day like artisanal finishing and user-friendly calendar watches. Also on the docket, the record-setting Patek Philippe 1518 in steel returns to auction while a second is up for private sale, and reflecting on our reassuring recent encounter with Breguet’s new chief executive. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Monochrome
A dangerous menagerie of beasts, with models like the T-Rex and the Cobra, lurks in Urwerk’s collections of avant-garde, mechanically complex timepieces. The indie brand, founded by Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner in 1997, interprets time in a radical, futuristic key through original ways of displaying the passing hours. Wandering satellites bearing the hours combined […]
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Hodinkee
UN's latest Freak variant uses a controlled crystallization process to create unique dial textures, making each of the 50 pieces completely one-of-a-kind.
Worn & Wound
Our first meeting at thai year’s Geneva Watch Days might turn out to be one of the best. Renaud Tixier launched during Watches & Wonders week of 2024 with a bold idea: seven revolutionary horological creations, released in a series of watches that will take nearly two decades to complete. Their first watch, the Monday (guess what the others will be called) is an attempt to solve the problem of the micro-rotor. While these small, often heavy rotors are wonderful for creating automatic watches that are nearly as thin as manually wound watches (and for showing off elaborate movement decoration) they are inherently inefficient. The Monday seeks to solve that problem with a completely new horological invention. The Renaud of Renaud Tixier is Dominique Renaud, the legendary watchmaker who was one half of the famed Renaud & Papi firm, who carved out a niche for themselves in the 1980s and 90s by creating ultra high end complications for the most prestigious brands. Renaud Tixier works along similar lines, but of course is a brand unto itself, and Renaud seems free to pursue whatever horological problem solving might be of interest to him. These watches, while incredibly beautiful, are ultimately for the hardcore movement nerds among us. The innovation of this first Renaud Tixier caliber is in the behavior of the micro-rotor. The brand refers to it as “the Dancer” because of the way the mechanism seems to dance at even the slightest jostle. Renaud Tixier’s micro-rotor ...
Monochrome
Since 2001, the Ulysse Nardin Freak has embodied the brand’s boldest ideas, breaking from convention through its orbital carousel construction and pioneering use of silicon. Over the years, it has taken on many forms, from highly complex to artistically playful, always remaining a platform for innovation. In 2019, the Freak X brought Ulysse Nardin’s vision […]
Teddy Baldassarre
London-based watchmaker Christopher Ward has achieved the impossible in its relatively short number of years in the watch game, catapulting from if you know, you-know microbrand to one of the most continuously successful indie watch brands on the market. Its founding principles remain largely unchanged, though its scale has grown in the 24 years since its founding: make high-quality watches while cutting what could be called the luxury tax in the industry with a direct-to-consumer model. But there is one distinct product that put the brand on the map more than any other, and that was the introduction of its own chiming watch at an unheard-of price point, the Christopher Ward Bel Canto. As you might have already guessed by the article title, today, we’re taking a microscopic view of the C1 Bel Canto, exploring what has made the watch such a crowd-favorite, and how it holds up today, four years after its initial release. Christopher Ward Bel Canto History As always, let us begin our horological journey with a history primer on Christopher Ward’s pathway to contemporary success. Luckily for you (and your dear writer), the brand doesn’t have as sweeping a history as many of the centuries-old watchmakers out there, so we can really dive into the microscopic view here. Christopher Ward, whom I would bestow the title of reigning King of Indie Watch Brands, has one of the scrappiest origin stories in the watch world. Founded in 2004 by the trio of Mike France, Peter Ellis,...
Time+Tide
There's so many horological goodies on show at this year's edition of Geneva Watch Days. Here's the vibe from on the ground.The post Hot, hectic, humid, horological: we’re on the ground for Geneva Watch Days 2025! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The fourth installment of the brand's constant force showcase comes with a brand new dial execution.
Monochrome
What started as a whimsical project in 2017 with the first Joker watch has turned out into a highly popular series of watches with a striking facial appearance. And even almost a decade later, indie watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin is still brimming with ideas to expand the collection even further. Under the name of Wristmon, he’s […]
Monochrome
Regarded as the most influential 20th-century watch designer and a key figure in the revival of mechanical watchmaking, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is the name behind countless icons that still hold sway today. In 2023, Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) haute horlogerie division announced the return of Gérald Genta as a standalone brand. Overseen […]
Monochrome
The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds has been one of the Saxon manufacture‘s greatest expressions of chronometric watchmaking since it first appeared in 2016. The debut model, cased in platinum with a solid silver dial, was produced in a 100-piece edition and immediately stood out for its rigorous regulator-style display and its […]
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne has just unveiled the fourth livery for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, now featuring a pink gold dial. The Jumping Seconds made its debut in 2016, but its unusual feature set and harmonious layout remain impressive nine years later. The new model is a 100-piece limited edition in 18k white gold and features what collectors will no-doubt refer to as a ‘salmon’ dial. But unlike most ‘salmon’ dials that are plated, the dial of the Jumping Seconds is solid 18k pink gold. In other words, its colour is more than skin-deep. Initial thoughts Though it feels like we must be on the tail end of the trend toward salmon dials, Lange’s pink gold dials always look good and might stir up interest in what still feels like an underrated watch. Nearly a decade after launch, the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds remains one of the great regulator-style wristwatches. There’s an extraordinary coherence at play between the design, which references a historical German pocket watch and elevates the deadbeat seconds display, and the movement, which features a one-second remontoir and a return-to-zero mechanism. As ever, the Jumping Seconds presents a wearable 39.9 mm case in 18k white gold, and at just 10.6 mm thick it’s pretty sleek for a watch with so much going on inside. Like its stablemates, it features the characteristic Lange case with a brushed case band and faceted lugs that are attached separately. The L094.1 movement fills the case beautifully, and differ...
Fratello
Unless you have lived under a rock for four years, you have probably seen and read about the CIGA Design Blue Planet. The distinctive take on a modern watch garnered excitement from watch fans worldwide and won a GPHG award in 2021. We have seen multiple versions of CIGA Design’s remarkable titanium and stainless steel […] Visit CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker to read the full article.
Fratello
Today, Oris is releasing two big and bold watches. First is the Big Crown Calibre 113, and second is the Oris × Bamford ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control.” The Big Crown comes with the 10-day power reserve of Calibre 113, which debuted in 2017. It includes a non-linear power reserve indicator, day and date, plus a […] Visit Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 And Oris × Bamford ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Schaffhausen-based H. Moser & Cie. returns to a complication it once offered with the Pioneer Flying Hours, a new take on the wandering hours. The watch indicates the minutes on a central ring, while the hours seemingly jump from one window to the other. With this intriguing new display, the Flying Hours might just be being one of the most interesting jumping hours on the market. Initial thoughts The Pioneer Flying Hours is not Moser’s first attempt at the wandering hours: the Endeavour Flying Hours was launched some seven years ago and an update on the historical complication. With new Pioneer, however, Moser manages to capture the mystique of both early wandering hours and mysterious clocks with its darting, wandering display. It is a tidy and admittedly novel reinterpretation of the wandering hours, which will surely appeal to collectors. There is something poetic about the minutes scale moving continuously across shuttered apertures, its sweep much like a bridge between points in time, here represented spatially. The combination of the sporty and large Pioneer case is also odd with the wandering hours, historically a complication associated with more formal, slim cases. At almost 43 mm, the case is large even for a sports watch. And to nitpick: if there is anything objectionable from the get-go, that is the name. Strictly speaking, “Flying hours” describes a revolving platform that is only supported from below - like a flying tourbillon. Here the hour disks a...
Worn & Wound
Vianney Halter, the legendary independent watchmaker, has collaborated with Behrens, the Chinese indie that over the last few years has gradually upped the ante in terms of their watchmaking and their own ambitions in the international watch industry. The new watch, the Behrens Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition, is sure to be one of the most talked about watches of Geneva Watch Days 2025, and should cement Behrens as a real player in the independent watch scene, while reintroducing Halter to a new generation of enthusiasts. Collaborations within the indie watch world are frequent, so it’s worth spending a moment to contextualize the importance of Vianney Halter working with Behrens on this watch in particular. Halter is considered by many to be on the proverbial Mt. Rushmore of indie watchmakers who set the stage for the modern avant-garde watchmaking moment that we’re in the midst of. His Antiqua, a truly radical design upon its release, is still one of the most influential watches of its era, or any other. That he’s chosen to not just lend his name to a Behrens release but actually create an all new caliber for it feels like the strongest possible endorsement, and a signal that he and the young Chinese brand share a certain watchmaking philosophy. The chief aesthetic inspiration behind the new piece is the square shape of antique electricity meters and the concept of “pixel nostalgia” (think video games like Snake and Tetris and you get the idea)....
Hodinkee
On the heels of a Clive Clusser-themed 750T limited edition, the full lineup is finally here.
Worn & Wound
Each Labor Day weekend for the last 42 years, the quiet hillsides of Northwestern Connecticut boom to life with sounds from a bygone era as vintage engines triumphantly roar to life on the circuit. This year, the 43rd Historic Festival, was my first year joining the action. Now, Lime Rock is not just a celebration of motorsports’ golden era spent staring at showpiece collector cars from behind a velvet rope, but rather a gathering of people for whom mechanical beauty and intricacy hold enduring appeal. David Von Bader with a late 1970s Heuer Montreal Ref. 750-503N As such, I entered under the assumption that while lifting bonnets, wrenching on bolts, polishing headlights, and lubricating gaskets, there would be some level of horological enthusiasm slipping out from under the cuff. Walking from the hillside into the paddock, it was immediately clear that the connection between car culture and horology held true. Breaking free from the distraction on track as the yellow pitbull 1965 Mini Cooper chased down a few vintage Porsches and BMWs, my eye snagged on a disk of gold glistening in the mechanics’ pit. There, wrenching away in a Jaguar mechanics jacket under a 1952 Jaguar XK120 propped up on stilts was James Alder from Reno, Nevada. Hands covered in grease, Jim was not gentle with the precious tool that slipped in and out of his cuff as he reached for engine fittings, trying to diagnose his firing problems. On his wrist sat a vintage Breitling Premier Chronograph from ...
Monochrome
Launched in 2015, the Pioneer collection has become H. Moser & Cie’s vision of an everyday watch: robust yet elegant, refined yet versatile, and water-resistant to 120m. Alongside it, the brand has also explored original ways of displaying time, like the Flying Hours, introduced in 2018 in the Endeavour line and marking Moser’s entry into […]
Hodinkee
An unconventional interpretation of a moonphase that's out of this world.
Monochrome
Bulgari’s Aluminium collection erupted on the scene in 1998. Fusing design elements from earlier models like the 1975 Bvlgari Bvlgari with the twice-emblazoned brand name on the gold bezel, the slick Aluminium with its bold mix of lightweight aluminium and rubber accents was a runaway success. Making its much-awaited comeback in 2020 during Geneva Watch […]
Worn & Wound
When I started collecting watches many years ago, I vividly remember stumbling upon a blog discussing YES and their array of unique and technologically advanced watches. I’m typically not someone who utilizes many of the functions on a watch besides the basic time and date keeping, but when I saw how complicated the dial and modes were on these, I knew I would have to own at least one at some point. Now with two different models in my collection, I wish I could go back and thank the author of that blog for steering me in the right direction all those years prior. For those of you who haven’t seen or heard of YES before, allow me to shed light on them just like that blog did. A Brief History of the Company For a more in-depth rundown on how YES came to be, I highly recommend reading the writeup by the brand’s founder himself, Bjorn Kartomten, featured on their website. Here, I want to instead offer some insight on the brand’s models and technological innovations rather than the nuts and bolts of how the brand came to be. As I’m sure you’ve already been able to gather by the included photos thus far, these aren’t your typical three-handers. Throughout YES’ catalog are watches boasting equinox and solstice alerts, lunar phase information, daylight and nighttime readouts and estimates, sun and moon calculators to show lunar data for any locations between the years 2000 and 2100, high and low tide indicators, phase elapse countdown timers, compasses, alarms,...
Monochrome
Oris has long defined itself as a maker of mechanical watches for “today’s world citizens”, with a clear commitment to function, value, robust engineering, supported by original looks. The new Big Crown Calibre 113 extends that philosophy by combining the brand’s historic pilot’s watch design with one of its most advanced hand-wound movements. Initially introduced […]
Fratello
I had to look twice at this new MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold edition, but it’s a new iteration of the watch introduced last month. In August, for the Sturgeon Moon, the MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold had a net-like design on the gold moon disc. This month, it’ll be a Corn Moon […] Visit Bringing Out The Popcorn With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase to read the full article.
Monochrome
The year 1969 is etched in Zenith’s history as the birth of El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre. It was also the debut year of the Defy, a rugged sports watch nicknamed the “vault” for its robust construction and avant-garde angular design. Over the past few years, Zenith has revisited these late-1960s […]
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