Hodinkee
Introducing: Doxa's Updated SUB 750T, Now In The Brand's Signature Colors
On the heels of a Clive Clusser-themed 750T limited edition, the full lineup is finally here.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Gears and Gaskets: Spotting Mechanical Icons on Wrist and Road at the Lime Rock Historic Festival 43
Each Labor Day weekend for the last 42 years, the quiet hillsides of Northwestern Connecticut boom to life with sounds from a bygone era as vintage engines triumphantly roar to life on the circuit. This year, the 43rd Historic Festival, was my first year joining the action. Now, Lime Rock is not just a celebration of motorsports’ golden era spent staring at showpiece collector cars from behind a velvet rope, but rather a gathering of people for whom mechanical beauty and intricacy hold enduring appeal. David Von Bader with a late 1970s Heuer Montreal Ref. 750-503N As such, I entered under the assumption that while lifting bonnets, wrenching on bolts, polishing headlights, and lubricating gaskets, there would be some level of horological enthusiasm slipping out from under the cuff. Walking from the hillside into the paddock, it was immediately clear that the connection between car culture and horology held true. Breaking free from the distraction on track as the yellow pitbull 1965 Mini Cooper chased down a few vintage Porsches and BMWs, my eye snagged on a disk of gold glistening in the mechanics’ pit. There, wrenching away in a Jaguar mechanics jacket under a 1952 Jaguar XK120 propped up on stilts was James Alder from Reno, Nevada. Hands covered in grease, Jim was not gentle with the precious tool that slipped in and out of his cuff as he reached for engine fittings, trying to diagnose his firing problems. On his wrist sat a vintage Breitling Premier Chronograph from ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Flying Hours
Launched in 2015, the Pioneer collection has become H. Moser & Cie’s vision of an everyday watch: robust yet elegant, refined yet versatile, and water-resistant to 120m. Alongside it, the brand has also explored original ways of displaying time, like the Flying Hours, introduced in 2018 in the Endeavour line and marking Moser’s entry into […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: TAG Heuer Shoots For The Moon With The Carrera Astronomer (Live Pics)
An unconventional interpretation of a moonphase that's out of this world.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Bulgari Bronzo GMT and Bronzo Chronograph (Incl. Video)
Bulgari’s Aluminium collection erupted on the scene in 1998. Fusing design elements from earlier models like the 1975 Bvlgari Bvlgari with the twice-emblazoned brand name on the gold bezel, the slick Aluminium with its bold mix of lightweight aluminium and rubber accents was a runaway success. Making its much-awaited comeback in 2020 during Geneva Watch […]
Worn & Wound
Why YES Watches Deserve Your Attention (and A Slot in Your Watch Box)
When I started collecting watches many years ago, I vividly remember stumbling upon a blog discussing YES and their array of unique and technologically advanced watches. I’m typically not someone who utilizes many of the functions on a watch besides the basic time and date keeping, but when I saw how complicated the dial and modes were on these, I knew I would have to own at least one at some point. Now with two different models in my collection, I wish I could go back and thank the author of that blog for steering me in the right direction all those years prior. For those of you who haven’t seen or heard of YES before, allow me to shed light on them just like that blog did. A Brief History of the Company For a more in-depth rundown on how YES came to be, I highly recommend reading the writeup by the brand’s founder himself, Bjorn Kartomten, featured on their website. Here, I want to instead offer some insight on the brand’s models and technological innovations rather than the nuts and bolts of how the brand came to be. As I’m sure you’ve already been able to gather by the included photos thus far, these aren’t your typical three-handers. Throughout YES’ catalog are watches boasting equinox and solstice alerts, lunar phase information, daylight and nighttime readouts and estimates, sun and moon calculators to show lunar data for any locations between the years 2000 and 2100, high and low tide indicators, phase elapse countdown timers, compasses, alarms,...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Bold New Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 with Business Calendar
Oris has long defined itself as a maker of mechanical watches for “today’s world citizens”, with a clear commitment to function, value, robust engineering, supported by original looks. The new Big Crown Calibre 113 extends that philosophy by combining the brand’s historic pilot’s watch design with one of its most advanced hand-wound movements. Initially introduced […]
Fratello
Bringing Out The Popcorn With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase
I had to look twice at this new MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold edition, but it’s a new iteration of the watch introduced last month. In August, for the Sturgeon Moon, the MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold had a net-like design on the gold moon disc. This month, it’ll be a Corn Moon […] Visit Bringing Out The Popcorn With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM, A 1960s Design Icon Reimagined
The year 1969 is etched in Zenith’s history as the birth of El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre. It was also the debut year of the Defy, a rugged sports watch nicknamed the “vault” for its robust construction and avant-garde angular design. Over the past few years, Zenith has revisited these late-1960s […]
SJX Watches
Style and Substance in Greubel Forsey’s QP Balancier
Greubel Forsey repackages its cutting edge perpetual calendar in a sleeker, more accessible format as the QP Balancier. It’s still a highly legible calendar that adjusts forward and back via the crown without need of tools or fear of damage. Despite the simpler styling, the QP Balancier retains the high-end movement decoration the brand is known for. Initial Thoughts Greubel Forsey was arguably a latecomer to the world of complications, spending its first decade on chronometry, refining the tourbillon. The brand’s first complication, the GMT presented in 2011, applied an unfamiliar approach to a familiar complication. That set the tone for the brand’s first perpetual calendar four years later – the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation. At its heart was a “mechanical computer” programmed with 48-month leap year cycle that allowed the calendar to be adjusted forward and back without issue, all from the crown. The Quantième Perpétuel à Équation of 2015 While the result is not novel, – Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. have bi-directional perpetual calendar as well – the method certainly is. Greubel Forsey paired the mechanical computer with a similarly sophisticated in-line display – using four layers of stacked disks – making its perpetual as easy to read as it is to use. The new QP Balancier is a more focused watch than its predecessor, as it does away with the 24-second inclined tourbillon and equation of time. While wider, the case is also slimmer an...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Tag Heuer Announces High Tech "TH-Carbonspring" Harispring Via Limited Edition Monaco And Carrera Models
The result of over a decade of work at the TAG Heuer Lab, the "TH-Carbonspring" is a new oscillator that relies on carbon rather than silicon – and it will soon be available in a pair of limited edition models.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Doxa SUB 750T Series, Now a Permanent Collection
Since 1967, the Doxa SUB series has been a benchmark in underwater timekeeping, bringing the cushion-shaped case, patented no-decompression bezel and high-contrast dials to professional and recreational divers alike. In 2002, the brand introduced the SUB 750T, a bolder, oversized companion built for extreme depths. For its 20th anniversary, Doxa paid tribute to one of […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Doxa Sub 750T
Well, it’s not a huge surprise that Doxa has opted to follow up its recent Sub 750T Clive Cussler limited edition with regular editions of the same model. Still, nothing is guaranteed in life, which is why we jumped at the chance to see the new collection in the metal at Fratello HQ. While we […] Visit Hands-On With The New Doxa Sub 750T to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Naissance d’une Montre 3 by Ferdinand Berthoud, a Top Contender for The World’s Best Watch
Naissance d’une Montre 3 by Ferdinand Berthoud is a series of 11 completely hand crafted watches powered by a unique combination of a split bimetallic temperature-compensated Guillaume-type balance wheel and a constant-force fusee-and-chain transmission system.
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin’s Entry-Level Freak in Crystalium
The latest iteration of Ulysse Nardin’s most affordable Freak is the Freak X Crystalium, a limited edition that blends the disruptive Freak aesthetic with a novel decorative element in the form of a dial in Crystalium. Though it has an almost organic look, Crystalium is actually the result of crystallised ruthenium deposited via physical vapour deposition (PVD). The advanced, unusual material is decorative, yet harks back to the Freak’s origins as a materials pioneer. Initial thoughts The Freak has been a core collection in Ulysse Nardin’s roster since the first model was launched back in 2001. The line has been defined by disruptive and bold technical construction and a pioneering use of silicon. But lately it feels watered down; the Freak X dials back on the exotic tech to make the iconic design more attainable. And the many iterations of the Freak X don’t help its case. But paradoxically the new Freak X is a return to one of the core values of the Freak series: materials science. Ulysse Nardin experimented with all sorts of materials over the years with the Freak as a platform, ranging from the DIAMonSIL escapement to silicon movement bridges to mono block oscillators. The Freak X Crystalium employs new material, but this time it serves an aesthetic function as opposed to a mechanical one. The large rotating disk which serves as the dial’s foundation is covered in an organic-seeming, quartz-like glittering surface that’s the result of years of research. ...
Monochrome
In-Depth – The Impressive Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3 (Incl. Video)
What follows is not just the story of a watch, but also that of an extraordinary project – the Naissance d’une montre 3 or Birth of a Watch 3 in English. The Naissance d’une Montre started as a collaborative initiative launched in 2009 by the Time Æon Foundation to preserve and transmit traditional watchmaking techniques. […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Gérald Genta Minute Repeater
Now in the hands of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, alongside Daniel Roth, watchmaking brand Gérald Genta came back on the scene last year with one of the boldest and least expected creations, the Gentissima Oursin collection. A watch paying tribute to the man’s bold designs, it will be joined this year by a […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Artistic Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari
If you are attending the sixth edition of Geneva Watch Days, don’t miss Bulgari’s retrospective of the Octo Finissimo’s impressive trajectory in the ultra-thin watchmaking arena since 2014. Alongside the record-breaking models is a new Octo Finissimo collaboration model made with Korean artist Lee Ufan, the latest in a long line of artists and architects […]
SJX Watches
In-Depth: TAG Heuer Achieves Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation
TAG Heuer is marking the rollout of its new-and-improved, and in-house, carbon hairsprings – timed to coincide with the 350th anniversary of the hairspring’s invention – with a pair of chronographs: the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring. More than just two new watches, the TH-Carbonspring is a notable technical achievement that might promise an entirely new generation of TAG Heuer movements equipped with oscillators that boast all of the advantages of silicon, but with added robustness. Protected by several patents, TH-Carbonspring is also the result of a fascinating process of research and development to overcome a surprising problem. Kitted out in carbon composite dials and cases, the two watches are centred on TAG Heuer’s latest-generation carbon-nanocomposite balance springs, with each being a limited edition of just 50 pieces Initial thoughts Both models serve as a launch platform for TAG Heuer’s improved and industrialisation-ready carbon hairspring. While the brand has been flirting with carbon hairsprings since 2019, its use of the technology has been intermittent and on limited scale. TAG Heuer explains previous attempts at carbon springs were not up to the brand’s standards, which is to say the hairsprings did not perform as expected and could not be produced at scale. The new TH-Carbonspring indicates TAG Heuer has perfected the technology to make reliable hairsprings, which m...
SJX Watches
Gérald Genta Strikes the Right Note with the Minute Repeater
The reborn Gérald Genta has just unveils a simply-titled complicated watch, the Minute Repeater. Although a new design, the striking timepiece harks back to Gérald Genta’s golden age in the late 20th century, in both style and quality of execution. The case takes a clean, cushion-shaped form, while the dial is glossy black onyx. And inside ticks the GG-002, a hand-wind movement derived from the longstanding repeater movement made by Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the parent of Gérald Genta. Though not a limited edition, the yearly output will be limited to 10 pieces. Initial thoughts Big-name brand revivals are not always successful endeavours, since it is often difficult for new patrons to recapture the spirit and style of the original, while also making it financially viable. Gérald Genta is clearly an exception. It was relaunched in 2023 by Louis Vuitton, allowing it to lean more towards genuine quality rather than a flash in the pan. The Minute Repeater is a welcome and original addition to the brand’s collection, embodying the late Genta’s instinctive design flair and aesthetic sensibilities, while being a new(ish) design. An especially pleasant surprise is the original case shape that certainly looks very Gérald Genta, but wasn’t previously in the catalogue, though Genta did pen similar cases in the past. In other words, this is not a remake. The shape sits between an ellipse and a rounded rectangle, capturing the gist of the 1970s design we...
Fratello
TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco And Carrera Models Equipped With The Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring
Watch brands are constantly pushing the boundaries of new materials. Several brands have proprietary ones that they use for cases, dials, and hands, but using new materials for calibers happens far less frequently. Today, TAG Heuer introduces a carbon hairspring as a revolutionary next step in material use for watch movements. The innovative TH-Carbonspring was […] Visit TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco And Carrera Models Equipped With The Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer
For Geneva Watch Days 2025, TAG Heuer has brought a surprising number of new models. One of the favorites is the subject of this article. The Carrera Astronomer is a new addition to the lineup and is available in three references. As we’ll soon see, one is destined for serial production, while two are limited […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer to read the full article.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer debuts two chronographs with revolutionary carbon hairsprings, a technology they’ve been developing for almost a decade
Have TAG finally perfected carbon hairspring technology, and will this be a game changer - for them and the rest of the watch industry?The post TAG Heuer debuts two chronographs with revolutionary carbon hairsprings, a technology they’ve been developing for almost a decade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The New Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon in Teal Green (Incl. Video)
Laurent Ferrier is among the most laureled independent watchmakers in recent years, and for good reason. The brand seems to effortlessly blend shapes, colours and mechanics into fascinating yet elegantly discreet watches, even if we’re dealing with a world timer or a tourbillon watch. A prime example is the Sport Auto, one of Frank Geelen’s (our […]
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Different Ways To Approach Watches As A Hobby
Have you ever wondered if you’re approaching the watch hobby in the way that suits you best or if social media has influenced how you do so? Today, on Fratello Talks, we’re following up on some of Thomas’s recent thought pieces with a more formal discussion. There are nearly infinite ways to approach the watch […] Visit Fratello Talks: Different Ways To Approach Watches As A Hobby to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Furlan Marri Disco Diamonds Onyx – A New Affordable Entry Into Subtle Gemsetting
A natural onyx dial and lab-grown diamonds combines with a modernized take on the Disco Volante for an attractive-and limited-release. We look at the history of precious stone indices and historical takes on the "flying saucer" design.
Teddy Baldassarre
Mido Ocean Star: A Complete Guide To The Historic Dive Watch
Mido is not one of the more widely familiar watchmakers in North America - though its watches have enjoyed a longstanding popularity south of the border, in Latin America - despite the fact that the brand, now owned by Swatch Group, has been around for a long time. It was founded on November 11, 1918, the same date of the armistice that ended World War I, by watchmaker Georges G. Schaeren (below) in the Swiss town of Biel-Bienne. Its name comes from the Spanish phrase Yo Mido, meaning “I Measure,” which may or may not indicate that Schaeren had always intended his products to appeal to a large Spanish-speaking audience. What is indisputable is that the Mido brand contributed some significant innovations to watchmaking in the 20th Century, few of which are often acknowledged. The company came up with one of the first solutions to waterproofing watch cases in 1930, developing a sealing system (below) that installed a watertight gasket made of cork between the crown and the case; Mido later named this invention “Aquadura.” The Mido Multifort, still produced today, debuted in 1934 and became the first antimagnetic watch with automatic winding. In 1945, Mido unveiled the Multi-CenterChrono, the first chronograph watch with a central display for the elapsed time, and in 1954 developed the Powerwind automatic winding system that increased efficiency by reducing the number of parts in the mechanism. Of all these milestones, it was the Aquadura waterproofing technolog...
Worn & Wound
Creating Cultural Moments at the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom with the “Giles” Film Premiere
When we first opened the doors to our Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn-based showroom in December of last year, the idea was simple: create a space where people could engage with watches and gear in a more meaningful way. Over the past nine months, that idea has grown into something larger-a cultural hub where community, creativity, and horology all intersect. Recently, the showroom took on a new role as a screening space for the documentary short Giles. Directed by filmmaker and documentarian Taylor Scott Mason, and featuring the work of photographer-turned-watchmaker Giles Clement, this doc dives into the process of designing and building a watch from scratch. On the night of the premiere, the showroom transformed into a small theater with seating for our special guests. Collectors, enthusiasts, and friends of the brand gathered for the screening, which was followed by a live Q&A; with both the director and subject of the film. The conversation offered a behind-the-scenes look not only at the making of the film, but also at both the creative and quirky ups and downs of bringing a watch concept to life in Brooklyn. Taylor Scott Mason brings a rich, global perspective to the film. Originally from Washington state and now based in Brooklyn, Mason moved to New York City in 2006 and has since built a diverse body of work across documentary, commercial, and editorial filmmaking-working in over 50 countries and highlighting his robust experience in storytelling through visual ...
Worn & Wound
Czapek Introduces the New Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R.
It’s hard to think that the first Antarctique is just five years old. In that time, what started as a bit of a surprise from a relatively unknown independent brand has become core to our understanding of independent sports watches, and the Antarctique in particular has become one of watchmaking’s most compelling platforms. Whether it be interpreted as a compact time-only sports watch or a highly complicated marvel, the Antarctique has been hard to ignore. Now, Czapek is bringing back one of its most notable variations - with a bit of a twist. The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante ‘R.U.R.’ builds on what may be the most compelling Antarctiques to date (the GPHG Nominated Rattrapante Ice Blue), but brings in a bit of sci-fi to turn it into something fun and different. The new grey and blue colorway is a big part of this, as is the use of a fictional robotic language inspired by the Predator movies, but the most notable addition when compared to the Rattrapante Ice Blue is undoubtedly the inclusion of a robot’s head at 12 o’clock. This micro-sculpture - which, in titanium, is hand-polished, laser-engraved, and micro-painted to achieve an impressive amount of fine detail and depth - was made for Czapek by MD’Art, who previously collaborated with Czapek to make the mirror-finished dial used on the Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition last year. The robot head sits just above the column wheel on the dial side of the watch and has eyes that cha...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New De Bethune DB25xs Starry Varius, A Celestial Beauty in a More Compact Form
When De Bethune first unveiled the DB25 Starry Varius, it quickly became one of the brand’s most poetic and recognisable creations. A starry sky rendered in shimmering blued or polished titanium, dotted with hand-fitted white gold pins and illuminated by the Milky Way in delicate 24-carat gold leaf, it was, quite literally, a firmament on […]