Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Celebration Dial’ Came To Party
The new OP design is a totally unexpected move from the kings of traditional watchmaking. That's exactly why it's so marvelous.
Results for The Quartz Astron Launch
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Adds an Attractive Blue GMT to the Collection
Bell & Ross has expanded their offering of GMT equipped watches at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the BR 03-93 GMT Blue. A GMT complication is perhaps the most natural additional feature for a watch that’s so tied to aviation. The iconic square case shape of the BR 03 is modeled after what you might find on an instrument cluster in an aircraft. For this new reference, Bell & Ross is employing a combination of colors that are not frequently seen together, at least within the Bell & Ross catalog, but they complement each other incredibly well. The story here starts with the dial, which is a gorgeous shade of bright blue with a sunray finish. Bell & Ross tells us they’ve designed the dial with pure functionality in mind, thinking through the complementing colors in terms of legibility. Large Arabic numerals at the cardinal positions combined with big lume filled hands immediately orient the wearer of the watch to the local time at a glance. The oversized red arrow on the GMT hand is also lume filled and meant to be similarly immediately identifiable. As is the custom for Bell & Ross with recent releases, lume has been emphasized and applied liberally across the various dial furniture. Everything on the dial is big and well defined, and one can imagine it would be hard to confuse local for GMT time, and vice-versa. The case is classic Bell & Ross, rendered in stainless steel and measuring 42mm across. Rather than a traditional blue and red bezel, Bell & Ross ...
Worn & Wound
A New 3D-Printed Carbon Fiber Composite Case and an Upgraded Mechanical Altimeter Takes The Oris ProPilot Altimeter to Greater Heights
I think it’s safe to say that we’re past the initial shock and awe moments from the first couple of days of Watches & Wonders. As we all digest the barrage of releases, the next day or so is my favorite because now we really get to sift through each and every novelty to discover the watches that may have been overshadowed by the preliminary excitement. To look past the first glass case surrounded by all the fancy lights and signage to find the brand’s deep cuts from this year’s showing. Oris came out of the Watches & Wonders gates in a playful way by featuring their ProPilot x Kermit Edition, but a more serious, utilitarian ProPilot that has legitimate expedition-watch chops has also garnered some of our attention. Compared to its ProPilot predecessor, it’s significantly lighter and capable of pushing to greater heights – it’s the new ProPilot Altimeter. The Oris ProPilot Altimeter confidently stands as the only wristwatch at Watches & Wonders, and the world, to utilize an integrated mechanical altimeter. By way of some ingenious engineering and a series of numerals and markers located within the segmented dial cut-outs, as well as a metric scale (either feet or meters depending on the reference you opt for) on the rehaut, an accurate reading of your current altitude can be read. The crown at 4 o’clock signed with an “ALT SET” wordmark manages the entire altimeter system. Unscrewing the crown activates the altimeter by allowing air to enter the case. On...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Salmon-Dialed MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar
Max Büsser knows how to give the fans what they want.
Revolution
Meet the new Montblanc Iced Sea, Geosphere 0 Oxygen, Unveiled Secret and Unveiled Timekeeper watches
Laurent Lecamp, Montblanc’s Managing Director for the Watch Division, introduces new Iced Sea watches, which are inspired by maritime expeditions and sport glacier pattern dials created using a traditional technique called gratté-boisé. Next, he showed Revolution Founder Wei Koh the new additions to the Montblanc 0 Oxygen series. Inspired by mountaineers like Nimsdai Purja and […]
Video
Why do we love the iconic JLC Reverso Classic 🔥 #shorts #shortsvideo
Time+Tide
The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph is inspired by racing timekeepers of old
Chopard's L.U.C chronograph combines elements of vintage stopwatches and racing chronographs in an exhilarating and elegant package.The post The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph is inspired by racing timekeepers of old appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of the very first L.U.C
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of their first L.U.C watch, with many modern improvements The salmon dial is crafted from a gold plate, and does away with the unnecessary date display Chopard’s Lucent steel is made from 80% recycled material, and is also harder and brighter than regular stainless steel Chopard’s first wristwatch … ContinuedThe post The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of the very first L.U.C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R
The Patek Philippe 4997/200R Calatrava brings a vibrant purple dial into their ladies’ Calatrava catalogue The dial is made up of over 50 layers of lacquer on an embossed dial The Calibre 240 is visible from the sapphire display caseback, and is beautifully finished Patek Philippe have been taking design risks for decades, but there’s … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications
The Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications pays tribute to their Geneva home The Grand Feu cloisonné section of the dial depicts a steamship from the Belle Époque fleet that has been cruising Lake Geneva for over a century The calibre R 27 HU is equipped with world time and minute repeater complications Technical mastery is … ContinuedThe post Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy colours to the Calatrava
Patek Philippe brings a surprising jolt of colour to the Calatrava for Watches & Wonders 2023 The time and date reference gets 3 new dials in bright yellow, red, and blue The design harks back to the limited edition 6007A, but gets a case upgrade to polished white gold The new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007G … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy colours to the Calatrava appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Is this the ultimate salmon-dialled Trinity Perpetual Calendar?
Revolution
VIDEO: The incomparable Laurent Ferrier’s Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties
Laurent Ferrier is a third-generation watchmaker, who graduated from École d’Horlogerie de Genève in 1968 and worked 37 years in Patek Philippe. Hailed by many as the master of sector dial watches, Laurent Ferrier was 63 when he started his eponymous watch brand in 2010. At Watches and Wonders 2023, he introduces three new novelties […]
Worn & Wound
Should this Watch Exist? The Solid Gold Aquaracer is a Surprise Watches & Wonders Highlight
Ladies and gentlemen, I have a new obsession. Zach Weiss already told you about the latest Carreras from TAG Heuer, and they are undoubtedly pretty great. But the watch that stole the show for me from the TAG presentation was a solid gold Aquaracer. Yes, a solid gold Aquaracer. It wasn’t too long ago that we were universally kind of gobsmacked by a solar powered titanium version of this very same watch. Now, if you’d like, you can have a pair in two very different metals, which give very different impressions. The key to this Aquaracer is the complementary nature of the rose gold case and the degrade dial, which is a warm blend of brown and gray. The bezel and tops of the lugs have a sandblasted finish that mimics the utilitarian look of titanium reference, but there are polished accents that really make the precious metal pop, and that’s kind of what you want on a watch like this. Aside from the solid gold case, though, this is the Aquaracer we know and love (but just, you know, elevated to an insane degree). Inside ticks a TH31-00 automatic movement, a new caliber built by AMT, Sellita’s high end division. It has 80 hours of power reserve and has been COSC certified, so in terms of specs it’s highly competitive with calibers found in other high end divers. The case still measures a tidy 40mm in diameter. The horizontal ridged pattern that the Aquaracer’s dials have adopted recently is also present, and I can’t understate how well the tone of that dial w...
Revolution
VIDEO: Panerai’s Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties pay tribute to the rich heritage of the Radiomir
This year, Panerai shines the spotlight on the historic Radiomir, which is one of four major Panerai collections alongside the Luminor, Luminor Due and Submersible. In this video, Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué presents new novelties like the Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar, Radiomir California, Radiomir Otto Giorni and Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech to Revolution’s Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto […]
Revolution
VIDEO: Jeremiah gets his hands on the new UR-102 designs of 2023
At Urwerk’s atelier, Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor, got to know the back story of the iconic UR-102 in detail. As you might be aware, the UR-102 is inspired by the Sputnik satellite, and this unconventional timepiece played a fundamental role in launching Urwerk to success, along with paving the way for futuristic independent watchmaking. […]
Revolution
VIDEO: The new Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, and L.U.C. 1860
Discover the L.U.C. 1860 with Lucent Steel case and solid-gold guilloché dial, together with Chopard’s Ken Koshiyama and Revolution Founder Wei Koh, followed by the extra thin Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF.
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Sky-High Comfort: The Best Private Jets of 2023
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Roma, Now With A Chronograph Too
The entry point into the Octo collection gets refreshed and refined (and gets a chronograph).
Worn & Wound
The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco!
Last year, after a brief hiatus, the Windup Watch Fair returned to San Francisco to a new venue with more brands than ever before. The venue and show were a big hit, so the team here at Worn & Wound has decided to double down on San Francisco this year with twice as much space and twice as many brands. Held at Terra Gallery (511 Harrison Street), the same venue as last year, the Windup Watch Fair will play host to a huge assortment of 60+ brands. Among these participating brands will be our Lead Sponsors, namely: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. Each of these will be sharing new and exciting watches for the very first time in the metal at Windup San Francisco. Please join us on Friday, April 28th through Sunday, April 30th. You won’t want to miss it! In addition to our amazing Lead Sponsors, we’ll have a combination of the popular brands you already know and love, as well as a slew of new brands and first-time participants. Here’s a full roster of participating brands. For the first time ever-along with panels, giveaways, happy hours, and food trucks-there will be an entire section of the Fair dedicated to accessory and everyday carry items. We’re calling this section ‘EDC Alley’ and it will feature some of our favorite pocket knife, pen, and boot brands, among so much more. Once you need a break from all the watch and EDC goodness, grab a drink and take a break in the Complecto Lounge. We’re honored to support the Complecto community...
Revolution
VIDEO: The iconic IWC Ingenieur returns at Watches and Wonders 2023
Join Chris Grainger, CEO of IWC, and Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, as they discuss the latest by IWC. At Watches and Wonders 2023, IWC shines the spotlight on the new Ingenieur. Originally designed by the late great Gérald Genta in 1976, this 40mm amagnetic timepiece is available this year with black, silver or aqua […]
Revolution
VIDEO: The new Oris Propilot X Kermit Edition, Oris ProPilot Altimeter and Oris Big Crown Calibre 473
Rolf Studer, CEO of Oris, shows Oris’s Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties to Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution. If you’re a watch fan, you might have heard about the Oris Propilot X Kermit Edition, designed by Oris’s creative director Ken Laurent and Disney’s The Muppets. A short film was made about this special watch, which […]
Revolution
VIDEO: New versions of the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph
Besides the new Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, and L.U.C. 1860, Chopard also introduced several stunning versions of the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph at Watches and Wonders 2023. Inspired by the legendary Mille Miglia race, this 40.5mm Lucent Steel timepiece is now available in colors like light […]
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The Best $1000 Diver...So Why Did I Mod It?
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Reinvents an Icon with the Carrera Chronograph 39mm “Glassbox”
Does the TAG Heuer Carrera really need an introduction? Well, I suppose to be thorough. One of the iconic motorsport chronographs, it was launched in 1963, deftly combining the sleekness and excitement of the sport that inspired it. While over the decades there have been many variations and evolutions to the Carrera, the original 2447 from 1963 has always served as a source for the brand to go back to when reinvigorating the line. This year is the 60th anniversary of the Carrera, which they already began celebrating back in January with the release of a model that stayed very close to that original reference, though with general modern updates. While that model goes literally back to the Carreras roots, the newly launched Carrera 39mm “glassbox” mixes modern and vintage details into one of the most attractive packages from TAG in some time. There are three models to the collection, two 39mm three-register chronos, and a 42mm chrono-tourbillon. Focusing on the former, the fact that these non-revival, non-limited Carreras are at 39mm is the first aspect to celebrate. This size, while not small by today’s standards nor the same as the original (it was 36mm), is small for TAG, whose modern chronographs are generally 41 – 45mm. I suspect, however, there is a reason for this. As the title “glassbox” literally states, these Carrera’s have large domed sapphire crystals. Like, really large. While it is said they are inspired by the domed Hesalite crystals of 70s Carre...
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Privé Tank Normale
Cartier has long mined its extensive archives for inspiration, particularly for the Privé collection of historically-inspired watches. Having revived the Tank Asymetrique and Cloche, the jeweller now turns to the first-ever Tank with the Privé Tank Normale. Like past Privé models, the new Normale faithfully adheres to the historical original, but unlike other Privé models, it is offered with the option of a matching, precious-metal bracelet. Initial thoughts Like last year’s Privé Tank Chinoise, the Tank Normale is less familiar than say, the Tank Cintree, having been discontinued for some time. Although the Tank Normale was the original Tank design of 1917, it has been out of the catalogue for long enough to have some novelty. The Tank Normale stays true to the original in almost all respects. The case, for instance, is marginally larger than vintage examples but compact enough it feels like a vintage watch. Even the bevelled sapphire crystal mimics the glass on the originals. But the watch incorporates modest tweaks that set it apart as a modern watch, like the expanded railway minute track. These design updates reveal a good attention to detail in updating the watch without changing too much. Especially noteworthy is the bracelet, an option rarely offered by Cartier for its high-end men’s watches. It’s executed well in both design and build, while also being acceptably priced as such things go (although pricey in absolute terms). The OG Tank The Tank Norma...
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54
In 2012, Tudor broke the ground by introducing the Black Bay, a steel dive watch whose attractive design and price point have always offered a value proposition for enthusiasts. Through the years, the format has been updated from its larger 41 mm case down to 39 mm, as seen in the Black Bay 58. Today, the brand has dropped the Black Bay 54 with a new, smaller 37 mm case. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Black Bay makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The 37 mm size of the new Black Bay 54 really sets it apart – perfect for those who prefer a classic look and slimmer watches. Its sophisticated simplicity makes it appropriate for both genders without sacrificing the utilitarian styling that has made the lineup popular through the years. As is typical for Tudor, the value proposition is outstanding. At CHF3,450 in steel on a rubber strap (and slightly more with its matching bracelet), it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. The combination of vintage-inspired design, excellent build quality, and affordable price point makes the new Black Bay 54 a winner. Vintage-inspired but in a more compact case While the original Black Bay was 41 mm, the 54 is considerably smaller but wears well on the wrist. It takes inspiration from an earlier diver from Tudor’s history, the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922 that was issued primarily to the French and American navies but was later used by civilian tech...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R
Adding to its diverse line-up of travel watches, Patek Philippe has just taken the wraps off the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R. A bold design, the ref. 5224R is Patek Philippe’s most novel travel watch to date. It is notable for having a 24-hour display inspired by the Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches made for Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early twentieth century. Initial thoughts The ref. 5224R is instantly striking thanks to the high contrast between the dial colour and rose gold case, busy dial design, and large, thin case. Though it is in essence a three-hander with an extra second time zone hand, it is far more interesting, even intimidating due to the 44 applied indices that give the dial something of an instrument-like appearance. The 24-hour display elevates the quirkiness of the design, which arguably strengthens the overall aesthetic. Admittedly, this comes at a cost of legibility – it is not the most intuitive watch to read. It takes a while to get used to, so reliability will be an issue if one is rotating between different watches in his or her collection. More surprising is the case size, which at 42 mm is massive for Patek Philippe. It is also unusual given the traditional case design, although the large case emphasises the slimness of the case. The large size is likely intentional to provide space for the applied numerals, and is perhaps rooted in the large size of the Gondolo pocket watches. Still, one wonders if ...
SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces the DB Eight
While De Bethune is best known for its avant-garde designs and signature spring-loaded floating lugs, the brand’s early years were characterised by more traditional styling. Fresh off the press, the DB Eight calls to mind the brand’s early products, most notably the DB1 mono-pusher chronograph from 2002, but adds many of the technical refinements that De Bethune has become known for. Dressed in a polished titanium case and guilloché dial, the DB Eight fills a hole in the brand’s current line-up by offering collectors a simple, manually wound mono-pusher chronograph, albeit one that lacks the technical and decorative refinement collectors expect at this price point. Thanks to its wide but slim case and narrow bezel, the DB Eight will likely wear larger than its 42.4 mm diameter would suggest Initial thoughts I’m probably in the minority when it comes to my preference for De Bethune’s more classically styled models like the original DB1. Given this preference, I naturally I gravitated towards the new DB Eight more than I have to some of the brand’s other recent offerings like the DB28XP. But while I like the design of the DB Eight, the substance does not meet my expectations for the brand. Let’s start with the good news. De Bethune has addressed the cross-eyed look of the DB1 with a new movement that offers an instantaneous 60-minute counter for the elapsed time at six o’clock. This creates a balanced look that at first glance might even pass for a time-...
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