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Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15 SJX Watches
Hublot MP-15 Hublot unveiled Nov 22, 2023

Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15

Hublot unveiled its fourth collaboration with the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami – the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire. Demonstrating Hublot’s mastery sapphire crystal cases, the watch is the brand’s first central tourbillon in regular production. The MP-15 is a fusion of artistic expression and watchmaking, that pushes the boundaries of mechanics and design, with the nudging of Mr Murakami, who previously designed a pair of simpler watches for Hublot. Initial thoughts The MP-15 is an entirely new watch, from case to movement, that was constructed to embody  Mr Murakami’s signature style. It takes a fresh and playful direction away from the relatively tamer previous editions that were based on an existing model. First seen with the unique example produced for Only Watch, the latest collaboration between Hublot and Takashi Murakami seamlessly combines Mr Murakami’s artistic vision with Hublot’s watchmaking proficiency, resulting in a unique and expressive watch.  Notably, the MP-15 is not as big as expected. It’s 42 mm in diameter but has no lugs, while the strap is narrow, making it suitable for both men and women. The Only Watch edition The MP-15 is more than a watch; it’s arguably wearable art. The retail price of US$316,000 certainly puts it closer to Mr Murakami’s creations than a wristwatch, even with the tourbillon. It is a very expensive wristwatch, but not so expensive relative to Mr Murakami’s art. Though this is a relatively lar...

Christopher Ward Continues to Explore Aventurine with the C63 Celest Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Continues Nov 21, 2023

Christopher Ward Continues to Explore Aventurine with the C63 Celest

Last month, Christopher Ward announced the C1 Moonphase, which features a beautiful aventurine dial and a pair of oversized, fully lumed moon discs to track the lunar cycle from month to month. If you thought that watch was cool, but maybe you’re not particularly interested in a moon phase complication, the C63 Celest might be more up your alley. This new reference from Christopher Ward trades on the same style of aventurine dial, but dispenses with the moon altogether. The result is a more straightforward watch that puts the unique qualities of aventurine on center stage.  The C63 Celest is the first watch outside of Christopher Ward’s Moonphase Collection to feature an aventurine dial. Because the effect of aventurine often mimics a starry night sky, it’s used frequently in watches that feature a moonphase, but without this additional complication, one can admire the material more for what it is. Simply put, it’s a type of glass that’s formed by mixing multiple types of glass together during production, including metallic elements (usually copper) that wind up giving the material a specific tonality and the trademark “star” effect. In the “Galaxy Blue” aventurine used by Christopher Ward, cobalt is used to give the dial its flat, cool blue finish.  The Celest is built on Christopher Ward’s C63 platform, and measures a conservative 36mm in diameter. While this case was certainly conceived as a sports watch case through and through, there’s no doubt...

The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces Nov 21, 2023

The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material

I’ve long been on record as an appreciator and fan of the wilder designs from Bell & Ross. Few watch brands, in fact, have a wider design purview than B&R;, which has fairly traditional aviation inspired watches at one end of the spectrum, bronze skull watches on the other, and their standard square case instrument watches right in the middle. The LUM series, an ongoing collection of watches that use luminescent material in a manner that can only be described as Maximalist, sits somewhere near the skulls, I think. Watch enthusiasts, of course, are notable in that we tend to love inventive applications of lume, but bold designs centered around the stuff still feel fairly niche. The new BR-X5 Green Lum takes the brand’s experiments with lume to a new level, giving the case itself the full lume treatment.  Seeing the press release for this watch, I knew immediately that it was destined to be a new object of obsession for me, perhaps not unlike my beloved Multimeter. It takes the still relatively new BR-X5 platform, the brand’s most contemporary and forward looking case design, and gives it a visual and material transformation via the brand’s LM3D composite. This material is made from quartz fibers which are completely photoluminescent, giving off a pronounced green glow. The case is a combination of this material and DLC coated titanium, which effectively acts as a shell with large pieces of LM3D at the top and bottom of the case. The dial is matte black and serves to...

The New TTT Knievel from REC Watches is Pure Americana Worn & Wound
Nov 20, 2023

The New TTT Knievel from REC Watches is Pure Americana

Evel Knievel, born Robert Craig Knievel, was an American daredevil and cultural icon known for his audacious motorcycle jumps and stunts during the 1960s and 1970s. Born on October 17, 1938, in Butte, Montana, Knievel gained fame for his death-defying feats, often performed on customized motorcycles. His signature jumps included attempts over buses, cars, and even the fountains at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas. Knievel’s larger-than-life persona and fearless spirit captured the public’s imagination, making him a household name. Despite numerous injuries and crashes, Knievel’s tenacity and showmanship contributed to his status as a legendary figure in the world of extreme sports and entertainment. In an effort to retain the magic that was Knievel’s daredevil tricks, Danish brand REC Watches has released their TTT KNIEVEL. With only 736 pieces in total production, this watch is limited edition for one very special reason. Inside each of the KNIEVEL timepieces, a portion of the original handlebar clutch levers from the XR750, the final stunt bike used by Evel Knievel during his famous “Shark Jump” stunt in 1977, has been reforged for a new life. The little star at the 12 o’clock mark? Yeah, that’s pure Evel. With this watch, one is truly owning a piece of American history. While the subject matter here is playing on events of a bygone era, the watch itself is in line with much of the contemporary design language we all have come to appreciate from REC. The 316L ...

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” Nov 19, 2023

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong

Having explored the best of independent watchmaking, we now pivot to the artisanal masterpieces at Christie’s Hong Kong sale on November 26, ranging from a 1950s cloisonné Omega by Nelly Richard to a Patek Philippe Dome Clock. Amongst the more esoteric is the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”, the quartet of timepieces each featuring a miniature sculpture replicating tribal masks in Geneva’s Barbier-Mueller Museum.  The auction on November 26 is made up of two parts, starting with Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) at 1 pm  – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lots 2224-2227: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” set One of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive Metiers d’Art creations, “Les Masques” is a literal description of the watches – each contains a miniature sculpture that deftly reproduces tribal masks from around the world that are part of the primitive art collection in the renowned Barbier-Mueller Museum. Each of the three years from 2007 to 2009 saw the launch of a “Les Masques” set made up of four watches, with each watch representing one of the four continents of Asia, Oceania, Africa, and the Americas. This present set is from 2009 and depicts masks from Gabon, Mexico, Indonesia, and China.  The masks were micro-sculptures of 18k gold that were intricately engraved and coloured by hand, and then...

The Arts and Forms of Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin alongside other enamelled works Nov 18, 2023

The Arts and Forms of Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After exploring the independents in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, our attention now turns to watches that focus on unusual aesthetics, namely timepieces defined by complex decoration or unusually shaped cases. Amongst the artisanal selection, here is one of Muriel Sechaud’s avian creations for Vacheron Constantin, alongside other enamelled works from the workshop of Anita Porchet. Muriel Sechaud’s rendition of Audubon’s birds And amongst the form watches is the Patek Philippe ref. 5013R-013, a tonneau-shaped grand complication in pink gold with a black dial, of which only three are known.  The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 859: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060 by Muriel Sechaud Renowned enamelist Muriel Sechaud collaborated with Vacheron Constantin to create a collection inspired by the illustrations of Jean-Jacques Audubon, a French-American artist, naturalist, and ornithologist. Audubon’s work, ‘Birds of America,’ served as the primary inspiration for this collaboration. The Swiss watchmaker, known for its commitment to craftsmanship and artistic expression, commissioned a series of cloisonné enamel dials to reproduce Audubon’s intricate bird illustrations faithfully. This artistic union reflects the fusion of horological expertise with the beauty found in natural history illustration. The current reference...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque: 11 Complications (Plus Flying Tourbillon) are Impressive, But the Fact that it’s So Wearable is The Real Magic – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre Nov 18, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque: 11 Complications (Plus Flying Tourbillon) are Impressive, But the Fact that it’s So Wearable is The Real Magic – Reprise

It wasn't until Ian Skellern had the opportunity to handle the four-faced Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 for himself that he understood the sheer scale of JLC’s achievement and gazed in newfound awe. Even though he had read the dimensions of Calibre 185, they were just numbers: in reality, it was much smaller and more wearable than he was expecting. Calibre 185 is by no means a small watch, but, as he reports, it is small for the sheer amount of complications packed inside.

The Best of the Indies at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 17, 2023

The Best of the Indies at Christie’s Hong Kong

Christie’s autumn sale season in Hong Kong is led by Important Watches, a 146-lot sale featuring independent watchmaking, reflecting the genre’s current popularity. Notably, the season will also feature the first sale of the OAK Collection belonging to French collector Patrick Getreide.  In this compilation, we examine nine lots by independents ranging from watchmakers that are practically establishment now, like Voutilainen and F.P. Journe. Amongst the highlights from the OAK Collection are several unique watches made for past Only Watch auctions, one of the rare occasions these one-off watches are returning to market. Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begins at at 1:00 pm on November 26 – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection sale (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Both sales take place at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Lot 2242: Gerald Genta Arena Mickey Mouse  With the revival of Gerald Genta by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), there has been a renewed interest in the timepieces it crafted in the past. Watches produced during the era when the brand was owned Bulgari have received less attention, although some are equally interesting, like this Arena Mickey Mouse. Gerald Genta debuted its Fantasy line featuring Disney characters in the 1990s. That evolved into the Arena Fantasy in the 2000s, which included this particular 80-piece edition made in around 2009. The watch combines the fami...

Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership with the Type 1 DX3 SJX Watches
Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership Nov 17, 2023

Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership with the Type 1 DX3

At this year’s Dubai Watch Week, Ressence and its Middle East retail partner, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, have unveiled their third and final edition – the Type 1 DX3. This unique timepiece puts a distinctive twist on the minimalist Type 1, featuring a dial inspired by Arabic geometric patterns, echoing the aesthetic of the pair’s past collaborations. Initial thoughts This limited edition for the Dubai retailer resonates with me – and is arguably one of the most outstanding recent watches from Ressence – illustrating the potential to blend modern aesthetics while grounding the watch in the region. It manages to stand apart from Ressence’s minimalist watches, which have been iterated in a multitude of variants to date. The DX3 sticks to the outline of the standard Type 1 Round, but its standout feature lies in the copper-tone dial that’s embellished with captivating rose motifs reminiscent of Islamic art and architecture, and further accented with Super-Luminova that glows green. The Type 1 DX3 retails for CHF23,600, will be limited to merely 35 pieces and accompanied by a copy of Arts & Crafts in Motion, the brand’s first book that’s published jointly with Seddiqi. Considering the dial decoration, this undeniably presents a more alluring proposition in contrast to the standard production models. However one can hope that Ressence will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating it later on. A cloisonné dial with Arabic patterns The DX3...