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Time+Tide
Oris has been experimenting with their dials, and have cooked up something really special.The post The Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser uses biomimicry instead of paint appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The first enthusiasts’ club in the United Arab Emirates, Dubai Watch Club (DWC) has regularly created limited edition for its members. The latest is the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Dubai Watch Club, a striking new take on the old-school El Primero A384. Initial thoughts Zenith has done many variants of the A384 remake, but the DWC edition is different, being both conspicuous and subtle. The yellow is hard to miss, particularly with the contrast-colour case and registers, but the Eastern Arabic numerals elements are subtle and practically invisible at a distance. It only reveals the distinctively local details up close, which gives it the appeal of an insider’s watch. More generally, the A384 remake that’s the base of the DWC edition is an appealing watch in itself because it retains practically all of the aesthetics of the original, including the compact case, but executes it in a thoroughly modern way in the form of a titanium case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC). Local details Founded by Emirati collectors including Adel Al-Rahmani and Nawaf Al-Abdooli, DWC started with 10 members in 2014, a tally that has multiple tenfold since then. Amongst the club’s past editions was the Cartier Santos-Dumont XL in 2021. The DWC El Primero is based on the A384 remake in titanium, with the dial being unique to the DWC edition. The dial is a bright yellow while the sub-dials and tachymeter scale in dark grey to match the case. Only up close do Middle East-inspired eleme...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After years of tiptoeing around it and covering releases from Oris, I have to say that the recently announced Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser may be the watch that conquers me. Back when Oris announced the original Pro Pilot X, I found the design compelling but at the same time, a little too industrial-looking for me. I say that even as someone who is affectionately drawn to aviation themes, which Oris does very well. But now, Oris just had to add frickin’ lasers to the equation, pulling me closer to the ProPilot X.
Quill & Pad
When the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awards presentation ceremony finished, I was among the many who thought: what happened to the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories? Why were no winners of those categories announced? There has been conjecture, but I didn’t hear anything that really made sense to me. Here's what happened and why it will not happen again.
Time+Tide
Night Surfer II, Dubai Watch Week, an event with Baume & Mercier... It's been a big week for T+T.The post Our first big event in the Time+Tide Discovery Studio, celebrating the Baume & Mercier Riviera, went off without a hitch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
In their efforts to provide the most bang for your buck, Brellum outfit the Pilot GMT in a green colourway.The post The Brellum Pilot GMT LE.3 is accessible luxury for pilots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
These days there is plenty of watch video content to check out on YouTube and social media, but we rarely get feature-length horological films. I can only name a handful, like The Watchmaker’s Apprentice, Keeper of Time, and Making Time. Over the last month, the independent watch brand Horage has been trickling out chapters of their documentary Chasing … ContinuedThe post You can now watch the Horage “Chasing Microns” documentary in full appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Another year of Windup Watch Fairs is in the books and we couldn’t have asked for a better end to 2023 than the New York City installment hosted just a few short weeks ago. After eight years of producing Windup Fairs around the US, it’s hard to imagine the show continually exceeding our expectations, but in 2023 we were once again pleasantly surprised. And needless to say, the foundation to this success are you, our readers. The Worn & Wound community is truly something special. You bring boundless enthusiasm to every Windup Fair and never make newcomers feel out of place. You show love to the participating brands, whether or not their specific products are your cup of tea. You make our team feel appreciated for all of their hard work, which makes our jobs that much more fulfilling. From everyone at Worn & Wound and everyone involved in the Windup Watch Fair, thank you! This year’s NYC Windup Watch Fair featured the most brands under one Windup roof ever. In total, over 80 brands showcased their goods, including watches over every style and price point, accessories galore, and, more than ever, non-watch products like pens, knives, flashlights, vintage print advertisements, and apparel. But all this product is nothing without an audience, and boy did we have an audience. This year’s show was the most well-attended Windup ever, with Saturday breaking all single-day records for attendance and product sales. To take a look back at the weekend’s festivities, we’ve...
Worn & Wound
While it’s true that it’s certainly Dubai Watch Week as I sit here and write, an argument could be made that we’re in the midst of an unofficial Seiko Week as well. Recent new product announcements run the gamut from the affordable and fun to the ultra niche collector focused limited edition. Today’s announcement might be the one that ultimately gets enthusiasts most excited, however. After some teasing through social media earlier in the week, Seiko has unveiled the new generation Seiko Prospex Marinemaster, officially dubbed the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation. This is technically a product line that has been available for a while in the Japanese domestic market, but Seiko is pointing out with this launch that the Prospex Marinemaster is now global, and represents the top tier of Seiko dive watches worldwide. The broad strokes here will of course be familiar to anyone who has strapped a Seiko diver to their wrist over the years. The format here is based on the original Seiko dive watch, the 62MAS from 1965, a watch that Seiko has returned to over and over again for inspiration through the years. Particularly in recent years, a crop of divers in the “SPB14X” range (which we’ve covered extensively) have become mainstays in enthusiast watch culture by presenting themselves as affordable dive watches in the spirit of the 62MAS without being direct recreations (but if it’s a recreation you want, Seiko has you covered). The ...
Worn & Wound
Oris expands their ProPilot X collection this week at the Dubai Watch Week event, with the introduction of the ProPilot X Laser. The watch continues with the theme of the ProPilot X, bringing the same trim titanium case and bracelet to the party, but this time mated to a very different dial experience than we’ve seen before in this collection. There are big changes and some smaller ones that we appreciate seeing here, as this represents the biggest departure from the standard trio introduced last year. Oris has never been afraid to wade into experimental waters with their dials, and this ProPilot X continues that trend in a new way. The latest ProPilot X is called Laser thanks to the technique used to create its dial, a method which Oris claims has not been applied in watchmaking before. Oris enlisted the help of a research lab affiliated to the prestigious ETH Zürich university to bring the concept to life. The result is something bordering ethereal in person, with a constantly changing palette of colors rendered in the unique texture. The iridescent effect is quite powerful and Oris has demonstrated a deft hand in making sure it’s the focal point of this watch. We’ve been spoiled by some truly amazing dial creations in recent years from the likes of Grand Seiko, Czapek, Arcanaut, and yes, even Oris. My first thought upon seeing a truly compelling dial is to how it fits in with the rest of the watch. For instance, the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite boasts a unique color...
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Hodinkee
A new laser treatment introduces a kaleidoscope of colors to the Pro Pilot X.
Worn & Wound
The Longines Legend Diver is a perennial contender insofar as enthusiasts are concerned, and it truly feels like it has always been relevant. Dual crown case, distinctive hands, inner rotating bezel – these have really come to define a model that has become a core of the Longines sport watch lineup. Indeed, it was part of the opening salvo of vintage-inspired tool watches that shifted an entire industry towards that genre over the last decade; in fact there is a non-zero chance the timepiece you are wearing as you read this exists thanks in part to the Legend Diver. Lately the Spirit line has garnered a lot of attention (and for good reason) but Longines has not left its dive watch to languish. After 16(!) long years since Longines reintroduced the model back in 2007, they have refreshed their most famous dive watch. Spoiler alert: there’s a lot to like. Updates to the Legend Diver have been made both inside and out. There’s no need to bury the lede here: the most notable change is that the case has been redesigned and downsized from 42mm to 39mm. More on that in a moment. It still utilizes Longines’ exclusive L888 movement, which is now COSC certified. Longines claims their movements are cased then tested continuously for 15 days across three temperature levels and numerous positions before certification. Another notable change is that the date at 3 o’clock is now nowhere to be found. This is part of Longines’ effort in achieving ISO 6425 certification, whi...
Hodinkee
Refreshing the brand's mid-century diver for 2023 with a smaller case size and two dial colors.
Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin decks out the Freak One OPS in mil-spec colours.The post Tactical green for the new Ulysse Nardin Freak One OPS appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Bulgari shows off their marquetry savoir faire with a collection of peacock-inspired dials.The post Tickle your fancy with the feathers of Bulgari’s Divas’ Dream Peacock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
Waxing poetically about moon phases got Joshua excited enough to take a trip through certain “phases” of engineering excellence. So here he brings you the ten most accurate moon phase displays fitted into a wristwatch as of 2020. Join us on this odyssey through space and time.
Time+Tide
The Swiss independent has unveiled arguably their two most desirable models yet at Dubai Watch Week 2023.The post Norqain release their most luxurious watch yet, the Wild One Gold, as well as the murdered-out Wild One All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly that. It’s incredible considering that 40 years have gone by since Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision became a reality. Story has it that Ibe began to conceptualize what a truly shock-resistant watch could be when his own mechanical watch fell and shattered on the ground after a collision with a fellow pedestrian. In the early 1980s, a specialized team at Casio, nicknamed “Team Tough”, began to test and develop prototypes. During this time, Ibe famously found inspiration from a rubber ball on a playground. Eventually engineers incorporated this rubber core idea into the very first G-Shock, model DW-5000C, in 1983. Four decades of innovation and iteration later, Casio is proud to present the culmination of the latest and greatest in technology, material science, and coloration: The 40th Anniversary Full Carbon 5000 Limited Edition. Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly...
Worn & Wound
We’re a little more than a year into the life of the Wild ONE, Norqain’s ambitious sports watch featuring their proprietary Norteq material. In a catalog of watches that are mostly inspired by classic, vintage watch design cues, the Wild ONE stands out as being unapologetically modern, both in terms of its aesthetics and the raw materials. This watch is part of an ongoing turn within the industry to alternative materials based in carbon fibers, plastics, and uncommon metals and alloys. According to Norqain, the combination of Norteq and rubber used in the case allows for a watch that can be rated to an unreal 5,000g shock test, which would likely create an impact that the wearer would have a hard time walking away from. Norqain has been framing the Wild ONE all along as a pure sports watch, but with these latest variants, I continue to wonder if it’s really more of an incredibly impact resistant design object. To be clear, I like this watch as a design object. I’m not taking it mountain biking, rock climbing, skiing, or anything else that the Norqain team thinks I might want to do with it. But I do like the way it looks and the way it’s made, and I think the latest releases seen here expand on the design language in a fun way. First up is the first Wild ONE to make use of solid gold, the aptly named Wild ONE Gold. The top section of the case is crafted from polished 18-carat red gold, with the base section made of black Norteq. The middle features the Wild ONE...
Hodinkee
Drawing on Büsser's love of 1960s design, the new watch has more rooms than a New York City apartment and is one of the most fascinating MB&F; designs yet.
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SJX Watches
MB&F; has introduced its latest Horological Machine, the HM11 Architect, inspired by 1960s futurist architecture. Featuring a central flying tourbillon surrounded by four polished titanium lobes, three of which contain dials, the HM11 offers a novel rotating case that pulls double duty as an enormous winding crown. Designed by longtime collaborator Eric Giroud, the HM11 takes cues from habitology, an architectural movement of the late 1960s that challenged conventional norms for domestic buildings, preferring organic forms to straight walls and rectangular windows. Initial thoughts As someone who favours traditional design, I usually find Horological Machines a tad large and a bit ostentatious. But the HM11 is more compact and sleeker than its specs suggest. In fact, the HM11 is the most traditional Horological Machine yet on the wrist, with a round 42 mm case and simple lugs. It has a surprisingly small footprint on the wrist, though it is tall, standing 23 mm at its highest, so it’s not for the faint of heart (or the long-sleeved). Yet even by the sculptural standards set by previous Horological Machines, the HM11 feels ambitious, particularly in the case construction. The complex form of the case, for example, requires 19 gaskets to ensure 20 m of water resistance. There are also numerous hidden details, like a proprietary shock dampening system adapted from the aerospace industry, that contribute to an overall package that is deeply satisfying; the longer you look...
Deployant
MB&F; adds to their Horological Machine collection with the new HM11 "Architect", and introducing their 21st caliber, inspired by architecture of the 1960s.
Hodinkee
Auctions, independents, the GPHG, and so many incredible watches.
SJX Watches
Unveiled barely a week after the reasonably traditional Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref. 5260 is unexpected, over the top, and entirely logical. It’s available in two variants, the simpler ref. 5260/355R-001 on a strap and the no-expense-spared ref. 5260/1455R-001 that’s set with gemstones on practically every surface, even the hour and minute hands. Now the most expensive ladies’ watch in the Patek Philippe catalogue – the ref. 5260/1455R-001 on bracelet costs CHF2.5 million with taxes – the ref. 5260 is a first in several ways. It’s the first Patek Philippe sports model with a minute repeater, and also the first ladies’ sports model with a “grand” complication. In fact, the ref. 5260 is the most complicated sports model of any kind, with the next-most-complicated being the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740. The ref. 5260/1455R-001 Initial thoughts I can certainly comprehend the appeal of the ref. 5260, even though it’s evidently not a watch catered to me. As far as crazily over-the-top ladies watches with impressive sertissage and impeccable horological credentials go, it doesn’t get any better than this. Mechanically the ref. 5260 is identical to Patek Philippe’s revered minute repeating models since it is powered by the R 27, the longstanding self-winding movement found in the current ref. 5178 and all the way back to the ref. 3979. In acoustic and watchmaking terms, the Aquanaut repeater...
Time+Tide
Two years after the original, the sequel drops, with a fresh El Primero-derived movement.The post The sequel is here – Zenith x Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton Night Surfer El Primero appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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