1,773 articles · 72 videos found · page 51 of 62
Deployant
The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde combines the magic of a floating tourbillon with the logic of a date hand that reverts to its starting position and the power of a 7-day in-house calibre.
Deployant
The history of dive watches date back to 1950s, when Blancpain and Rolex came up with the Fifty Fathoms and the Submariner respectively. These are not just mere devices that tell time; they are tool watches that provide information to assist people in carrying out their work. They were also immensely popular, due to their robustnessRead More
Revolution
The Antoine Martin Slowrunner that was released about a year ago came with a stupendously large balance wheel that beat at an astounding 1Hz. This was a watch that not only offered a very unique complication, but also came with a bunch of other useful everyday features. A date and a power reserve indicator came […]
Revolution
Baume & Mercier CEO Alain Zimmermann speaks to us on the new pieces from the Clifton Collection at SIHH 2014 where we see extensions to the very well received line launched last year. Among the highlights, a Flying Tourbillon, Chronograph, Retrograde Date and new Ladies watches. Interviewed by Wei Koh. Read Revolution International Digital […]
Revolution
The standout novelty for A. Lange & Söhne at SIHH 2014, the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna” is a complicated watch that features a constant force 14 day power reserve, a regulator style dial and the trademark Big Date. The real surprise though is on the back of the watch, with the beautiful and logical […]
Revolution
The first wave of introductions from the 2014 SIHH are out and from one of our favorite houses of haute horlogerie –A. Lange & Söhne –comes the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna.” By the numbers, here’s what we’ve got: a perpetual calendar regulator-dial watch, with instantaneous jumping month, day,leap year, and big date indications; there’s […]
Revolution
Last night we were privileged to be present for the launch of the latest version of the legendary Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002 from Patek Philippe. The most complicated wristwatch every produced by Patek, the Sky Moon Tourbillon features a perpetual calendar with retrograde date, a star map rotating once per sidereal day, and indication […]
Revolution
The Rotonde de Cartier is one of the newer models (or better to say not vintage models) in the Cartier collection and dates back to 2006, when Cartier introduced this new mens model, as a ‘Time Only’ with Grande date. At the time it was introduced, the collection needed a universal case for the men’s […]
Deployant
The Lange Arkade is an underated watch. The movement is beautiful…magnificent even. The case unique, the outsized date was an outrage when it was first introduced in 1994. In many sense, this is an outstanding watch…with one small print…it is a ladies timepiece. The ladies watch market, sadly, is dominated with quartz watches, which featureRead More
Revolution
With November 9th (Skyfall’s release date) around the corner and gentlemen worldwide engaging in ardent debates (we imagine) over Her Royal Majesty’s choice of timepiece for the British Navy and Special Air Services, we have been hard at work to uncover definitive information on the diver’s watch wars. The two traditional camps have always been […]
Revolution
A. lange & Söhne’s saxonia thin is the manufacture’s slimmest watch to date In what must count as one of the biggest comebacks since the mechanical wristwatch reinvented itself in the post-quartz era as a luxury necessity, the thin dress watch - once driven underground and nearly into extinction by the dinosaurian dimensions toward which […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Happy birthday, A. Lange & Söhne. It’s October 24th, which marks another anniversary since the name was revived in Glashütte watchmaking in 1994. For the past few years, the brand has often used this milestone day to release a heavy hitter or two—the 30th-anniversary Lange 1s and the second-generation Zeitwerk come to mind. Today, Lange is dropping something absolutely nuts—a 50-piece limited edition of the Datograph Perpetual in platinum, with a diamond-baguette-adorned dial and a platinum bracelet. Yes, that’s right. Odysseus aside, this is A. Lange & Söhne's first commercially available watch with a bracelet since the long-gone Wellendorf days. And boy, is it a doozy. The dial retains the familiar layout seen in past iterations of the Datograph Perpetual, with the oversized date window at twelve o’clock, the two offset subdials below, and a moonphase at six o’clock. The subdials, which convey both information for the chronograph and the calendar complications, feature two small interruptions (subdials on top of subdials, basically) by way of a day/night indicator and the perpetual calendar’s leap year pointer. Aside from those two elements, the month, day of the week, running seconds, and thirty-minute counter are all contained within these two areas. What immediately stands out (and even more so in person) is a big twist that feels quite different from typical Lange—baguette-cut diamonds are used in place of baton indices for the hou...
Hodinkee
If you were in NYC last week for watch week, there was a chance I saw you there. Yes, I actually showed my face in public – and it kinda felt good? Yeah, I think it did. And that got me thinking – what if I actually paid attention to the auctions again, like I used to! Not just from a professional standpoint, but from my perspective as a watch lover and occasional watch buyer. So I opened up some catalogs and started digging – and here are the ten watches I'd actually spend my own money on coming up for sale over the coming weeks – and don't worry, our actual auction savant, Mark, will be here over the next few days to give a much more in-depth take on what's happening this season. 1. The Earliest Known Lange 1, Ever A closed caseback Lange 1, without its caseback, reveals movement number....10. Did I mention it comes with a full set, dated to January of 1995, and with its original sales receipt? Photo courtesy of Auktionen Dr. Crott. Photo courtesy of Auktionen Dr. Crott. Photo courtesy of Auktionen Dr. Crott. You guys know about closed caseback Lange 1s – I love 'em. I've owned 'em. But I've never owned, or even heard of, a Lange 1 this early. Over at Dr. Crott, who also has a great PLM in platinum and from whom I sourced my Steel Lange 1 over ten years ago, and who has a history of great Lange watches – there is a remarkably early L1. How early? Movement number 10. Beyond that, it comes with paperwork dating it to January 1995, and an original handwritten...
Hodinkee
What We Know The idea of a 'Seaweed' dive watch isn't new—in fact, I used to own a diver that carried that nickname from collectors. But today, Oris offers a much more literal take on that idea with the Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition. No, Oris did not make a dial out of literal kelp. But the overall aesthetic is strongly inspired by underwater nature, thanks to an idea from Francis Pérez, an award-winning underwater photographer and Oris ambassador. © Francis Pérez It's another of Oris's sustainability-focused designs, as the brand continues to raise awareness for various environmental efforts. Think Oris' Bracenet Aquis, with a dial made from melted recycled fishing nets, or its Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition introduced this spring. Some of these editions will see a contribution of proceeds to a specific organization. Others, like this Kelp Forest edition, are meant to be conversation starters, giving purpose and meaning to a design beyond purely aesthetic goals. It's something Oris has done for many years, and this one continues that trend. Specifically, the story of this watch focuses on raising awareness of the deforestation of underwater kelp forests—which absorb carbon and provide shelter and food for a wide range of marine wildlife. While most people have probably thought about global overfishing and rising sea temperatures at some point in their lives, I think this issue gets much less talked about, if at all. This marketing story leads to an unsur...
Monochrome
Breguet’s maritime pedigree dates to 1815, when Louis XVIII appointed Abraham-Louis Breguet as watchmaker to the French Royal Navy. Although Breguet did not invent the marine chronometer (that was John Harrison), he improved its robustness and precision, enabling sailors to calculate longitude at sea more accurately. It wasn’t until 1990, though, that the brand tapped […]
Hodinkee
What We Know It seems as though Raymond Weil has been everywhere this year as the Geneva-based, family-owned independent brand celebrates its 50th anniversary. The company entered the integrated-bracelet sport watch realm in June with its A.R.T. collection, launching a lovely chronograph—The Fifty—featuring a vintage, new old stock Valjoux movement from the year the brand was born, 1976. But RW is marking another milestone this year. Today, on October 10th (also World Watch Day, btw), Raymond Weil himself would have turned 100 if he were still with us. A frequent and enthusiastic traveler, the brand is paying tribute to its founder with a limited-edition model, the Freelancer World-Traveller. The star of the show for this run of 260 pieces is, most certainly, the dial. It's a relief-rendered world map in the style of the Mercator projection, rendered in textured champagne, against a dark blue background, representing the oceans. Rather than the brand logo, Raymond Weil's signature sits at 6 o'clock and above the date window. The indexes are applied and surrounded by a 24-hour scale in blue for the evening and beige for the daytime. The outer ring of the dial features 24 world cities and their corresponding time zones. Turning the knurled bezel rotates the city ring to allow for shifting time zones or tracking. The local time display features tapering baton hands filled with Super-LumiNova, while the GMT hand, which can be manipulated by moving the screw-down cro...
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, Ianos, the Greek microbrand best known for its Greek history and culture-inspired dive watches like the Avyssos and the Dytis, is back with a new dive watch that was never meant to be. When Ianos introduced the Dytis last year, it was noted as the last in a trilogy of dive watches from Ianos, after which they would move on to the next thing. Well, Ianos is still mostly sticking to that story, but in the meantime, we have the Ianos Amfivios, a civilian edition of a special-edition watch Ianos produced last summer for Greece's Underwater Demolition Command. The new watch, built on the same dive-watch platform as last summer's Dytis (which TanTan went hands-on with here), is a solid next step for a brand that has iterated gently, even as it's taken big aesthetic swings in developing its collection. And truly, few, if any, other watches on the market scratch the same itch as Ianos's watches do. That said, the Amfivios is about as mass-appeal a watch as Ianos has produced, thanks to the military-demanded touches that set it apart from the Dytis. The Amfivios is, for example, the first dive watch since the original Avyssos to include any kind of scale on the rotating bezel. And where previous Ianos watches have used the small seconds subdial as a visual gag, here it is a functional subdial, with hands, markers, and everything. That's not to say Ianos has purged all that makes these watches, frankly, a little funky, though. The unique date at 12 remains, with ...
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, amongst a slate of other launches and re-releases, Gallet — now a part of the Breitling "House of Brands" — lifted the curtain on the Gallet Multichron Pilot. The new watch takes the recipe of the original 1969 Multichron Pilot and updates it, and the result is a watch that is recognizable but also, arguably, the most contemporary model in the very fresh Gallet lineup. The new watch does borrow heavily from its namesake, and seeing the two watches next to each other highlights the similarities. The new Multichron Pilot is still a tri-compax chronograph, with a bi-directional twelve-hour bezel, pump pushers, stick hands, and cut-off arrow-shaped markers. By way of comparison, a vintage Gallet Multichron Pilot. Image, courtesy Analog Shift. But there are definite differences too, many of which are concessions to modern taste. For one thing, those cut-off arrow-shaped indices are now lumed instead of polished, but there's also a date — visible through an aperture at 6 o'clock — and while the telemeter remains on the new watch, the tachymeter (which appeared as a second scale on vintage examples) is omitted. The watch is also bigger than vintage Multichrons. The new watch has been upsized from 38 to 42mm, is 11.3mm thick, and measures 45.59mm lug-to-lug. At that size, the new Multichron Pilot is the largest watch in the new Gallet catalog but is still quite reasonable and a far cry from some of the oversized watches that still seem to populate Bre...
Hodinkee
What We Know Mixed in with the new releases from Gallet today is the Gallet Multichron Sport. The watch, which, instead of modeling itself on any specific Gallet model, draws its inspiration from mid-century Gallet chronographs as a whole, is meant to act as a general-purpose, automotive-inspired, everyday, and "all-terrain" sports chronograph. What does that mean? Well, largely, it just means that the Multichron Sport is exactly what it says it is on the tin. It's a reasonably sized (by modern standards), reasonably priced (again, by modern standards), straightforward, to-the-point, legible, contemporary chronograph. It's a watch that will withstand anything a reasonable buyer throws at it. It's also the only watch in the lineup without a directly corresponding heritage model for comparison. That said, when lined up next to the other new offerings from the new Gallet, it still makes a lot of sense. Practically speaking, the Multichron Sport measures 41 mm across, 13.87mm thick, and 49.20mm lug-to-lug. Like the slightly larger Multichron Pilot and slightly smaller Flying Officer Chronograph, the Multichron Sport is powered by the Gallet 23 chronograph caliber. That movement, based on the Sellita SW510, is a cam-actuated chronograph with a 62-hour power reserve and a date at 6 o'clock. The Multichron Sport is available today in two configurations: a black and silver reverse panda dial with a silver tachymeter ring, and a blue dial with black subdials and a black tachymeter ...
Hodinkee
What We Know Tudor's North Flag has always been something of an outlier. It was originally launched in 2015 at Baselworld and was the first Tudor to feature one of the brand's in-house movements. Only ever available in two specs, on a bracelet or on a leather strap, the North Flag (91210N) was discontinued in 2021. Today, the Northflag (now one word) returns, evolving the 2015 offering with a single reference that sports a 24-hour hand for a second time zone. The new Northflag, ref. 9140G1A0U, uses 316L stainless steel for its 40mm case and integrated bracelet. The case is 12.7mm thick and 48.8mm lug-to-lug. Compared with the 40 x 13.3 x 50mm of the original North Flag, this new model should be more compatible with smaller wrists thanks to its more compact dimensions. The water resistance is 100 meters, and it has a domed sapphire crystal up front and a display caseback. Inside, and viewable via that display caseback, is Tudor's MT5652-U automatic movement. It's a 4Hz METAS-certified Master Chronometer with a stated accuracy of -0 to +5 seconds/day. For those keeping track, this is the same second time zone-equipped movement found in the Pelagos FXD GMT. Both the date and the GMT function are set via the crown, and adjusting the second time zone is done by jumping the local hour hand to a new time zone (such as when you land at your destination) in standard "flyer" GMT functionality. Like its predecessor, the second-gen Northflag's dial is black, with minimal text an...
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, Glashütte Original introduces two new flyback chronographs, replacing the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date models currently in the collection. While both models fall under the brand's Senator line, the new Senator Chronograph and Senator Chronograph Navigator could not be more opposed in aesthetics and spirit. First is the new Senator Chronograph Navigator, which departs significantly from the Senator line's overarching classical design language. With only a few exceptions, you're most likely expecting to see at least a few Roman numerals on any Senator dial. But the Navigator takes the chronograph down a much more utilitarian route, with what I believe is the brand's only conventional tool-watch design outside the SeaQ dive watch lineup. The matte black dial features three-dimensional, solid, luminescent applied Arabic hour numerals, while the rest of the dial text is printed in white to provide sharp contrast and improve legibility. The large subdials for the running seconds and elapsed minutes are snailed in texture, while a recessed faceting frames the oversized Panorama Date at six o'clock. The sword hands here are filled with a generous proportion of Super-LumiNova, and the remaining hands are all finished in white lacquer. The Senator Chronograph, sans Navigator, streamlines the layout of the outgoing Senator Chronograph Panorama Date for a more conventional look while still feeling familiar. A galvanic silver dial in soft white holds solid-gol...
Teddy Baldassarre Videos
Although basically superfluous nowadays, there is something endearing about the moonphase complication. For one, it speaks the same romantic language of the craft, all while managing to seamlessly fit into broader watch designs without distracting. We have heard people complain, "Why did they put a date on a watch?" B
Fratello
Recently, one of our readers asked me for an update on my ownership of the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321. He also wanted to know how often I wear it compared with the stainless-steel Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch introduced the following year (2021). They’re fair questions, and I’ll do my best to answer them today. Over […] Visit The Definitive Modern Speedmaster — Six Years With The Calibre 321 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The 250th anniversary of the founding of the United States did not escape notice from the nation’s fledgling watch industry. To mark the occasion, 1776 Atelier released the Liberty 250, a watch credibly claimed to be more than 90% US-made. The brand’s most American-made and technically ambitious watch to date, the Liberty 250 also illustrates the difficulty of building a complicated mechanical product without an established domestic supply chain. Its HP 917 movement is the product of extensive iterative development, incorporating newly manufactured components, a free-sprung balance and a markedly more elaborate finishing programme. We sat down with the brand’s co-founders, Jason Lu and Zach Smith, to unpack the 90% figure, discuss the challenges of manufacturing watches in the United States and understand what the Liberty 250 means for the future of the brand and American watchmaking more broadly. The Liberty 250 is the most American-made product yet from Atelier 1776. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Brandon Moore (BM): Why start a watch company in the United States, particularly given the limited domestic supplier network and the additional cost involved? Jason Lu (JL): Because this is where we live, and this is where we wanted to build it. The United States was founded on ingenuity, and American watchmaking has a remarkable history. The fact that much of the former infrastructure no longer exists does not mean it cannot be rebuilt in a new form. Th...
Fratello
Making a dive watch stand out today is genuinely tough. The archetype has been reinterpreted so many times that most releases blur together. The Aera D-1 Diver, however, managed to catch my attention with its less-is-more design philosophy. This modern diver uses fairly minimalist visual cues and combines them with a beautifully sculpted case. Add […] Visit A Promising First Encounter With The Updated Aera D-1 Diver to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, British microbrand Studio Underd0g, known for its uniquely conceived and constructed dials, introduces the second-generation update to its 02Series time-only field watch-ish design. Though new dial colors kind of feel like the brand's major schtick, there are a few surprising changes this time around. First, and a change that's sure to appeal to everyone, is a slight reduction in the case height of the 02Series. It's not the craziest of reductions, going from 12mm to 11.5mm, but shaving off this much is still a welcome improvement, especially considering the case itself is 9.4mm without the pronounced crystal. The new case measures 37.5mm in diameter, with the new 11.5mm thickness and a 46mm lug-to-lug. Yes, the diameter has also increased by half a millimeter, but the revamped proportions should work well across a large variety of wrists. The tighter tolerances also mean that the dial is now closer to the crystal, and this was accomplished thanks to the brand's acquisition of assembly workshop Horologium, now transformed into Studio Underd0g's own in-house workshop, aptly titled The D0ghouse. The caliber inside has also received a subtle update—the Sellita SW210 has been replaced by the SW200-2 M Power+. It's a mouthful, but what that means is an extended power reserve, increased from 42 hours to 63 hours. But in keeping with the execution of the previous generation, the rotor is removed to keep this second-generation manually wound. Across the four ...
WristBuzz
Bell & Ross just dropped a helicopter-yellow ceramic BR-03, Breitling did a Tour de France Top Time in Merckx yellow, Tudor scaled the Bumblebee Chrono down to 39mm. Yellow dials, yellow bezels, yellow rubber. Here's why summer belongs to yellow watches this year.
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, Longines follows up its 2024 release of the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve with a new colorway, adding a light blue opaline dial to the mix. Yes, this one's just a new dial color, but it offers a completely different feel from the three previous models in the very conservative shades of cream, grey, and black. The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve serves as an homage to a 1959 model from the brand with the same kind of power reserve indication, but you can bet that they weren't doing light blue in this watch back in the day. The hue on the front is a refreshing change, but the styling on the dial otherwise remains the same, with a sector dial framing the unique power reserve indicator right in the center. What makes it interesting is that the power reserve isn't just displayed by a rotating pointer, but rather by a dance between the two discs of the power-reserve hours track and the inner pointer. This means that, depending on how you've wound the watch, the positioning of the pointer from full to empty may not always be the same on the dial. This certainly makes for a less intuitive setup, though in all fairness, this piece of information is probably secondary compared to the time and date, for things you'd need at a glance. A date window sits at twelve o'clock, nicely framed in an appliqué, and is accompanied by applied hour markers throughout. The case is well-proportioned for a wide range of wrist sizes, although rather tall for a ...
Time+Tide
Sometimes, small improvements are all it takes to turn a good watch into a great one. Baltic brings back the Scalegraph in the permanent collection in an array of colours, Sartory-Billard dedicates a SB04-E to the Time+Tide Studio in NY, and Grand Seiko brings the long-awaited bracelet updates to many of its staple, fan-favourite pieces. … Continued
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, Blancpain has downsized its ultra-thin Villeret Ultraplate dress watch, with new options in 38mm for greater wearability. The previous 40mm options of the 'Golden Hour' series, which I covered last October, remain, but the 38mm options are going to be much more appealing all around as proper dress watches. The case still remains incredibly thin, especially for a self-winding watch, at 8.35mm, but the 38mm downsizing now offers a short 43.35mm lug-to-lug measurement for small wrists and those who prefer the more traditional proportion of how a dress watch should look on the wrist. Here, four options are presented within these new measurements: three with stainless steel cases, and one in 18K red gold. The dial design continues the visual update introduced last October in the Villeret series, with simplified Roman numerals, the applied "JB" logo at 12 o'clock (standing for Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, who the brand credits as the founder), slim but still lumed leaf hands, and a skeletonized rotor. In stainless steel, there are three dial colors available. Salmon is a first for the Villeret collection, with a copper-hued dial paired with anthracite-coated 18K gold numerals. My favorite of the lineup, the Villeret Ultraplate featuring a warm champagne-hued dial with 18K yellow gold numerals set within a steel case with a green nubuck strap, will be offered as a boutique exclusive. More classic pairings of white gold numerals in a steel case and red gold numeral...
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