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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
The Story of the Walter White Watch, from "Breaking Bad" to "Better Ca Teddy Baldassarre
May 19, 2023

The Story of the Walter White Watch, from "Breaking Bad" to "Better Ca

The sixth and final season of AMC’s prestige drama series Better Call Saul, the prequel to the award-winning Breaking Bad, dropped on Netflix back in April, and a wristwatch that appears prominently in the series finale has caught the attention of avid small-screen watch spotters. Some of them may remember - while others may have missed - seeing the watch for the first time in Breaking Bad, where it played an even more significant symbolic role in the storyline of its owner, Walter White, played by multiple Emmy winning lead actor Bryan Cranston. Here is the story behind Walter White’s watch and why it is so much more than just a prop. When we first meet Walter White, in the premiere episode of Breaking Bad on January 20, 2008, he is a somewhat pitiable figure: an underpaid, underappreciated high school chemistry teacher who drives a Pontiac Aztek (remember those?), wears a cheap digital watch, and struggles to support his small family, which includes caring for a son with cerebral palsy. In that same pilot episode, Walter learns he has terminal cancer - a diagnosis that triggers the desperate and increasingly ruthless quest for illicit riches and power that defines the arc of the series, as Walter evolves from hapless, nondescript educator to the crystal meth kingpin of Albuquerque, New Mexico. (Series creator Vince Gilligan has described its high concept as “Mr. Chips becomes Scarface.”) The first watch that we saw Walter wearing is a fairly humble one, a ...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thomas S. Worn & Wound
Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 May 19, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thomas S.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Thomas S. brings us a capable trio that isn’t afraid to step off the well beaten path. There’s new stuff, hard to get stuff, and kinda (but not really) old stuff, all bound by a great sense of style and practicality. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I’m a minimalist at heart. That doesn’t mean I always succeed. As far as watches are concerned, I certainly have more than three (though proudly less than ten). I’ve spent the last couple of years working towards attaining my own perfect three watch collection. These watches are the core of what I take traveling, and are the most worn of all of my watches. I find it a well-rounded collection, if still leaning towards being sporty. As my collection grows (and shrinks) over the years, I anticipate these three watches remaining at the forefront of my collection. Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 – $1000 The SARB017 was the first mechanical watch I ever bought myself. I picked it up just after Seiko quietly discontinued it, and was lucky enough to get it well under what they are selling for now, new or used. With the trusty and near-indestructible 6R15 caliber inside, the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 holds its own as a daily work watch beater. I should know, I wear it often when climbing and pruning trees as an arborist. The crown guards and second crown at 4 o’clock bely the A...

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Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab Worn & Wound
Boldr Go Prehistoric May 19, 2023

Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab

Boldr is an exciting young brand based our of Singapore and Malaysia and they really live up to their mantra of “Be Boldr”. With an impressive lineup of tool watches under their belt, Boldlr is becoming known for their serious value proposition, crafting spec-packed watches that fall within very reasonable price ranges. Today, we’re happy to announce that their newest collaboration with Nitecore is now in the Windup Watch Shop. Let’s take a look at this unique and fun meeting of the brands, where the result is a dinosaur-themed mashup that’s sure to bring out your inner child. Boldr is an exciting young brand based our of Singapore and Malaysia and they really live up to their mantra of “Be Boldr”. With an impressive lineup of tool watches under their belt, Boldlr is becoming known for their serious value proposition, crafting spec-packed watches that fall within very reasonable price ranges. Today, we’re happy to announce that their newest collaboration with Nitecore is now in the Windup Watch Shop. Let’s take a look at this unique and fun meeting of the brands, where the result is a dinosaur-themed mashup that’s sure to bring out your inner child. The post Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Is the rise of male jewellery fuelling our love for integrated-bracelet watches? Time+Tide
Piaget was May 19, 2023

Is the rise of male jewellery fuelling our love for integrated-bracelet watches?

Worn by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Andy Warhol, Piaget was a brand that reeked of jet-set glamour in the 1970s. The launch of the Piaget Polo, the brand’s first integrated-bracelet watch, did little to dispel this aspirational image.  Released in 1979, the watch got widespread attention after it was photographed on the wrist … ContinuedThe post Is the rise of male jewellery fuelling our love for integrated-bracelet watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21 Time+Tide
Breguet x Frieze exhibition May 19, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21

On Wednesday afternoon in New York City, I returned to The Shed at Hudson Yards to check out the new Frieze exhibition of which Breguet is a proud sponsor. With eight floors hosting phenomenal artwork from renowned galleries and artists around the world, it is a great space to immerse yourself in various cultures and … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler May 18, 2023

The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate

A friend of mine has this saying. Whenever he would see something old, he would point at it and say, “Old but good”. A rusty old Land Cruiser, a guitar that has endured years of abuse on stage, whatever it is, it’s old but good. We have a fascination with objects that have taken on … ContinuedThe post The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Three Lasting Divers Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Tudor Sinn May 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Three Lasting Divers Under $5,000

We’ve been inundated with incredible dive watches in recent years, at a wide range of price points, but particularly under $5,000, where dive watches belong. There are three examples in particular that represent this trend, and all three have remained standard bearers in the subsequent short years since releasing. Each of these watches reveal something important about Tudor, Sinn, and Seiko, in that even when it comes to straight forward tool watches, they can still surprise us in the best of ways. We’ve written plenty about these three watches since their releases, and today we’re looking at how they’ve come to form the core of my own dive watch rotation. Recent trends point to something of an unraveling of the typical genre labels, as well as an embrace for watches that lean toward the formal end of that equation, at minimum alongside the more tool-ish watches that have enjoyed the spotlight in the recent past. However, there’s something comforting about a classic diver, like grilled cheese and tomato soup, that always keeps people like me coming back. These are the kinds of watches that I end up reaching for more than any other on the day to day, as practical (and handsome) companions for my lifestyle. These are the watches that seem to transcend style trends that shift from era to era in the most blunt of manners.  In this video, I walk through each of these watches and why they’ve remained in my own watchbox since their release, and how well they’ve sto...

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Out Of Office: Cruising the California Coast With The Grand Seiko SBGE285 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGE285 “Out May 18, 2023

Out Of Office: Cruising the California Coast With The Grand Seiko SBGE285

“Out of Office” is a series of stories accounting our experiences trying to find moments of solace outdoors, as well as our interaction with the gear that comes along with us, and that most certainly includes the watches on our wrist. Out of Office is an escape. It’s about finding an opportunity to put the world on pause, whether it’s the few minutes you take out of your day to read this article, or its the couple of hours you dedicate to getting out there. It’s where our experience meets our enthusiasm. Through this series we’ve already seen our authors do a hike in the local hills with a Sinn, explore a glacier via seaplane with a Citizen and a road trip through New England with a Rolex. Let’s continue this journey together and see where it takes us.” It’s no secret that I love the west coast. I might have been born in Tennessee, but my heart belongs in California. The ocean, the trees, the mountains…they just have my soul. I was recently in San Francisco for our annual Windup Watch Fair and decided to take a few days after the event to travel North up the Sonoma Coast, then back down to Monterey before heading back to Nashville. I expected a fun relaxing vacation with my BFF and that’s exactly what I got.  Before I dive into some of the places I visited on this trip, I want to quickly go over some of the gear I brought with me. My camera of choice for this vacation was the Panasonic Lumix S5II with the Panasonic 85mm 1.8 lens. This camera is on lo...

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Should watch brands cancel orders placed with the intention of immediately flipping them? Time+Tide
May 18, 2023

Should watch brands cancel orders placed with the intention of immediately flipping them?

Watch flipping. The practice, depending on which side of the coin you are on, poses one of the biggest problems or opportunities within the watch space today. With watches increasingly being looked at as an investment opportunity, and financial figures such as Kevin O’Leary endorsing the notion that investing in watches is better than investing … ContinuedThe post Should watch brands cancel orders placed with the intention of immediately flipping them? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” for Revolution & The Rake with Guillaume Laidet Revolution
Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” May 18, 2023

Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” for Revolution & The Rake with Guillaume Laidet

Wei sits down with Guillaume Laidet of Vulcain to discuss the new Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ limited edition for Revolution & The Rake. The Vulcain Cricket dates back to 1947 when it was introduced as the world’s first mechanical alarm watch, powered by the now-legendary caliber 120. The alarm worked with a hammer that struck […]

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Citizen Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Arena with the NJ015 Series “Tsuyosa” Worn & Wound
Citizen Enters May 18, 2023

Citizen Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Arena with the NJ015 Series “Tsuyosa”

Five years ago, if someone were to ask me for advice on an affordable, reliable, all-purpose watch with some enthusiast/collector credibility, I’d definitely have Seiko on the tip of my tongue, and probably Timex and G-Shock as well. A brand that I might not have been as quick to mention would be Citizen, which is perhaps a bit ironic for me personally, because a Citizen is literally the first watch I can remember picking out for myself, years and years before this would become a hobby, let alone a profession. But something is happening at Citizen that is truly compelling. They’ve always had an expansive catalog, but recently they’ve been able to zero in on the stuff that really makes them special. Affordable, tactical divers are one avenue where they’ve had some success, and I’d argue they currently have a slight edge on Seiko in that department, overall. And with the recent release of the NJ015 “Tsuyosa” collection (the word means “strength” in Japanese) Citizen is making a play at the competitive “sporty, everyday casual” segment of the market with a colorful integrated bracelet option. Coming in at less than $500, these seem destined to appear on “recommended” lists. What we have here are straightforward, time and date automatic watches in stainless steel cases with integrated bracelets. The design is vaguely vintage inspired, but this type of watch is so common right now, it feels completely contemporary. The obvious point of comparison is Ti...

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Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts We round May 18, 2023

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having concluded its Geneva sales that included an F.P. Journe thematic auction, Christie’s will soon open its spring sale season in Hong Kong. The auctioneer’s watch offerings include an impressive line-up of watches assembled over two decades by an Asian collector. Christened The Ultimate Collection, the selection is composed of 107 timepieces – almost all modern – ranging from Rolex to F.P. Journe. Although the watches are diverse, the collector’s keen eye can be discerned. The catalogue includes classic must-haves like various examples of the Rolex Daytona and GMT-Master II, but also rare and special watches from F.P. Journe as well as possibly-unique Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts. We round up nine notable picks from the sale, including the headline lots from F.P. Journe – a Chronomètre à Résonance “RTA” with a mother-of-pearl dial and the Tourbillon Souverain Coeur de Rubis. The “Coeur de Rubis” dial Other highlights including a Patek Philippe Dome Clock that was originally owned by Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot and Blancpain fame, along with uncommon variants of the landmark Lange 1, including the Lange 1A and ref. 101.027X. The Ultimate Collection takes place on May 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) – the catalogue is available here. Lot 2537 – F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Anniversaire “Hong Kong”  In 2016, F.P. Journe marked the 10th anniversary of its first ever boutique (which was in Tokyo) with the ...

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The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 May 18, 2023

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 tames the beastly watch into a friendlier package. The case has been refined for comfort and accessibility. Its dial has also been simplified for a calmer appearance with no loss of spirit. The Hamilton brand has a long-standing history in supplying both militaries and Hollywood with task-specific watches, and … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile” SJX Watches
Raketa May 18, 2023

Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile”

A Soviet-era watchmaker, Raketa has been rejuvenated by investors and a team advised by Manuel Emch, the former chief executive of Romain Jerome. The brand has brought back designs from its archives, while also producing new models inspired by its past. Falling squarely into the latter category, the Avant-Garde “The Horophile” takes it cues from Communist art while the palette comes courtesy of Amr Sindi, the Swiss-based watch influencer known as The Horophile. Initial thoughts In a relatively short time Raketa has managed to create a distinctive identity with its unique aesthetic. Precisely because of their Soviet-era style, many of the brand’s watches might seem drab. The new Avant-Garde, in contrast, stands out with its bright colours. It will certainly appeal to someone who appreciates the Raketa design but wants something more lively. Price-wise the Horophile edition is no different from the standard model. At €1,650 before taxes, the watch is reasonably priced, although Raketa movements generally could do with a bit more window dressing, even at the price. The purple rotor in the Horophile edition goes some way in improving the view from the back. Bolshevik art The dial of the Avant-Garde is inspired by Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, one of the best-known works by artist El Lissitzky, one of the proponents of the Russian avant-garde movement that flourished from the late 19th- t0 early-20th centuries. A 1919 propaganda poster, the work shows a red wedge ...

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A Prototype Turned Bonafide Addition to Martin-Baker Collection: Introducing the Bremont MB Viper Worn & Wound
Bremont MB Viper Bremont May 17, 2023

A Prototype Turned Bonafide Addition to Martin-Baker Collection: Introducing the Bremont MB Viper

Bremont and ejection seat manufacturer Martin-Baker have been working with another for over a decade now, and they’re partnership has laid the groundwork for innovation in both the testing and watchmaking process. These two British companies are most certainly birds of a feather, producing their own specialty products with a stamp of dependability that signifies the extensive testing and meticulous quality control that goes into each and every component. They both are constantly pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in their respective industries. It’s no surprise that when Bremont brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores with its series of Caliber ENG300 movements, they tapped into Martin-Baker’s intense equipment and performance testing program. That idea has evolved to what is now the foundation of Bremont’s MB range and created a whole new category of testing, as well as set a brand new standard for the pilots watch. Bremont and Martin-Baker’s latest collaborative project looks forward by looking back – not at their rich history in engineering and technical ingenuity, but at the MB testing program itself and the actual test instrument used by Bremont. In order to test the viability of their Caliber ENG300 movement series, Bremont created a special housing that was attached to the dashboard of an ejection simulator. Bremont then went a step further by affixing a set of carbon fiber lugs to that special housing and strapped it to the wrist of a test mann...

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The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Freak One May 17, 2023

The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic

Ulysse Nardin’s original Freak shook the watch-o-sphere to the core when unveiled at Basel in 2001. It was like nothing anyone had seen before; a complete reimagining of how a watch can function and display time where there was no crown, no dial and no hands. Seemingly so complex with a gear train sprawled across … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Audubon” featuring May 17, 2023

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After round up the best examples of independent watchmaking on offer at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, let’s turn to notable complications and artisanal timepieces in the sale that takes place on May 24 and 25.  Amongst the highlights are easy choices like the Patek Philippe ref. 5016P, the most complicated watch made by the Geneva watchmaker at the time of its launch. Others might go under the radar (and perhaps be good buys), like the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mystérieuse with its transparent time display and floating hands. As for the artisanal, a highlight is undoubtedly the Vacheron Constantin “Audubon” featuring a cloisonné dial done by the famed Anita Porchet, arguably the best enameller in watchmaking.  Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 836: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060/000J-8434  by Anita Porchet Enamelling at its highest level is an art form equal to the best of complicated watchmaking. Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s earliest but also best known enamelled watches is the series inspired by drawings from Birds of America by John-James Audubon. The 19th century American naturalist documented most of the continent’s birds in the landmark tome, the pages of which served as inspiration for the series of watches. For the “Birds of America” series, Vacheron Constantin turned to the best enamelers of the day, including Muriel Sechaud and of course Anita Porchet. Going by t...

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Omega Debuts New Models of the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer SJX Watches
Frederique Constant or Montblanc May 17, 2023

Omega Debuts New Models of the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer

Omega expands the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer collection with one in steel and an all-new model in titanium. Dressed in restrained colours of greys or greens with gilded accents, the new pair combines modern styling with a traditional, Cottier-style world time. Initial thoughts Though superficially similar to earlier versions of the Aqua Terra travel watch, a close examination reveals notable differences between the new models and their predecessors.  The titanium model is executed in shades of grey and black, save for a gilded, relief world map, giving it a striking appearance that elevates the world time concept. In contrast, the map motif feels more integrated into the design on the steel models, allowing the map to recede into the background resulting in a more low-key appearance..  The new models are priced slightly higher than their predecessors, with the steel on strap starting at US$10,200 and about 10% more for the titanium. Compared against the competition, the Aqua Terra Worldtimer is one of the few world time watches at that price point – most are either pricer or less expensive – and its quality certainly justifies its price premium over comparable watches from Frederique Constant or Montblanc for instance. Eye-catching colourways Omega’s latest Aqua Terra Worldtimers continue the brand’s sporty reinterpretation of the classic complication invented by Louis Cottier. The dial features a relief map of the Earth as seen from the North Pole, ringed b...

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Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels Time+Tide
Omega revisits May 16, 2023

Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels

Three new configurations for the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Titanium makes its debut in the collection, new green dial for stainless steel, all use coloured ceramic bezels for the first time Titanium model is US$2.6K more expensive than the original steel, new steel models US$1K more expensive due to new bezel and 18K moonshine gold … ContinuedThe post Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model – but it is not limited! Time+Tide
May 16, 2023

New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model – but it is not limited!

The Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki” will be the last Calendrier I produced As an Anniversary model the watch is not a limited edition, it is time limited with all successful orders honoured The first Kurono dial to be made of phosphor-bronze, the case’s water-resistance is raised to 50m Cards on the table, I have … ContinuedThe post New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model – but it is not limited! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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