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Time+Tide
Five years is a drop in the ocean for a heritage watchmaker, but for a brand like Depancel the wooden anniversary is truly significant. The spirit of racing runs through them much deeper than their short existence may suggest, and they manage to stand out in a truly flooded market of motoring-inspired watches. Their best … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Complicated Reversos are almost always interesting given the space constraints and commercial implications in developing rectangular movements, and the Tribute Chronograph is no exception. The new chronograph is a remake of sorts that honours one of the brand’s signature watches from the 1990s. While the original Reverso Chronographe Retrograde was a 500-piece limited edition in pink gold from 1996, the Tribute Chronograph is a regular production watch available in both pink gold or steel. Both versions feature a sun-ray brushed primary dial and partially open-worked chronograph dial on the reverse. Initial thoughts As a fan of the original Reverso chronograph, I am excited to see this concept brought back to life. The key elements that made the original unique, namely the distinct styles of the two faces and the compact, rectangular chronograph movement, have been retained and updated. Both the steel and pink gold references are attractive, but the pink gold version is arguably the most appealing with its gold-on-black livery that brings to mind vintage “gilt” dials. That said, there are a few trade-offs that give me pause. The large case of the Tribute Chronograph is potentially problematic for some wrists, and the simplified dial feels generic (whereas the original had a guilloche dial). I am also conflicted about the movement. On one hand, it’s gre...
Revolution
Considered to be one of the greatest and most influential living watchmakers of our time, François-Paul Journe, most known by the name F.P. Journe, started his brand in 1999. Combining the elegance in the design of late-18th-century with creativity modernism and innovation, F.P. Journe manages to harmoniously bring together brilliance in design and create mechanical […]
Time+Tide
Two new variants, the SPB415 and SPB417 join the Seiko Sharp Edged Series The 6R5J movement debuts with 72 hours of power reserve New details can be found on the case finishing and the dial Seiko’s Presage collection is known for its versatility, offering everything from higher-end Masterpiece models to more affordable Cocktail Time timepieces. … ContinuedThe post A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
One of the great things about the current state of the watch world is the insane variety of watches that are available. We’re at a point (or at least approaching one) where brands of all stripes are willing to get creative in ways we haven’t seen in years. We’ve come out of a long period of time dominated by vintage inspired watches that all felt cut from the same cloth, and it feels like we’re now at the beginning of a new movement where makers large and small are aiming for narrower and narrower niches. I’m lucky to have seen some of the watches coming from brands we all admire later in the year, and I’m confident that when the dust settles we’ll be talking about a sea change toward more adventurous designs and a level of watchmaking once reserved for the super wealthy being made accessible to new customers for the first time. This is why I’m more interested than ever in the micro indies I’ve discussed in these pages previously. It feels like there’s a nearly infinite opportunity for brands to create special, unusual, innovative, and original watches for an audience that’s simultaneously incredibly broad and highly specialized. There’s no shortage of collectors interested in getting something unique – a byproduct of the aforementioned decade of lookalike black dialed divers. And yet, each individual watch forces you to ask, “Who is this for?” That’s a question that most of us wonder everytime we look at an MB&F; or De Bethune, and the answe...
Worn & Wound
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The post The Roundup – Value-Packed Field Watches, a Unique Desk Accessory, and a No-Brainer Update to Your EDC appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
The latest news to come from our friends at Massena LAB doesn’t actually concern a new watch, but rather an entirely new retail operation. Last week, William Massena, the founder of the NYC based creative studio that has produced a string of popular limited edition watches over the last three years, announced Massena HOUSE, which he describes as a new community and retail concept that will focus on independent watchmaking. We seem to be heading toward a period where interest in independent brands across the pricing spectrum is at a fever pitch, so the timing here would appear to be ideal on Massena’s part. What’s more, the first brand announced to be sold through Massena HOUSE is a real coup. Daniel Roth, having recently been relaunched, is the first brand Massena has announced will be retailed through his Massena HOUSE operation. To paraphrase a quote that is sometimes heard in the political realm, this is a very big deal indeed. Daniel Roth’s eponymous brand is one of the origin points of the modern independent watchmaking movement that is currently flourishing worldwide. It’s been owned by Bulgari for years, and thus wrapped up in the LVMH corporate structure, but earlier this year after a great deal of speculation it was confirmed that the brand would reappear with an assist from La Fabrique Du Temps, Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking arm. It would be a mistake to write La Fabrique Du Temps, or Louis Vuitton for that matter, off as part of a larger “fashion b...
Worn & Wound
There’s a certain level of homeland pride in every way that Bremont operates. It’s apparent in their designs and palpable throughout their entire company from top to bottom. The Giles brothers have made it their life’s mission to produce beautifully British-made mechanical watches and if there needs to be any more confirmation of how successfully that’s going, then let “The Wing”, Bremont’s vast campus and headquarters in Henley which has subsequently brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores, put any queries to bed. As Bremont ambassador and now friend of Worn & Wound, Alex Bescoby eloquently put it in a recent interview, “Bremont is all about beautifully putting together traditional and British design, and celebrating that.” Well, for the folks living across the pond, there’s lots to celebrate as this past weekend, in front of 2,200 ceremony attendees and millions watching around the world, King Charles III was crowned as Great Britain’s new monarch. It’s only fitting that Bremont, who already has an ongoing partnership with the Ministry of Defence (MoD) to honor His Majesty’s Armed Forces, has released two limited edition models that marks a moment in history with the coronation of His Majesty. The MBII King Charles III Limited Edition largely retains the familiar design cues of the Martin-Baker collection – dual crown configuration, internal rotating bezel, a distinct knurled barrel design and internal case reinforcements. As every other Bremo...
Deployant
Hands-on comprehensive review of the new Jaeger-LeCoultra Reverso Tribute Chronograph released recently at Watches & Wonders 2023.
SJX Watches
One of the most talked-about and contentious releases of the year, the IWC Ingenieur 40 is a reinterpretation of the vintage Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta. By sticking closely to the design of the 1976 original – and thus catering the current fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches – IWC is positioning the Ingenieur as a key part of its line-up, despite several unsuccessful attempts to reboot the collection in recent years. Initial thoughts With past revivals of the Ingenieur diverging further and further from the 1976 model in terms of styling, enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting the return of the original design. And the recent popularity of integrated bracelets made such a comeback all the more likely. Now the Ingenieur has returned – in undoubtedly the correct guise. Though the design has been well received, there has been criticism of the movement and price. By staying faithful to the original design, the Ingenieur 40 gets it right. The construction shows attention to detail in the essential elements, including the patterned dial and bezel secured by polygonal screws, along with a slim case profile. These elements echo the vintage original, while still making it obvious the Ingenieur 40 is a new design. Despite the visual and tactile appeal, the Ingenieur 40 is burdened with significant drawbacks. The first is the cal. 32111, a movement found in entry-level models like Mark XX, which cost quite a bit less than the Ingenieur 40. Because the cal. ...
Time+Tide
There are many celebrities who are watch collectors and enthusiasts that get talked about extensively – such as John Mayer or Jay Z – but someone who isn’t discussed that much amongst watch lovers is Canadian R&B; singer Daniel Caesar. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Daniel Caesar (@danielcaesar) The … ContinuedThe post R&B; singer Daniel Caesar is a serious watch geek and his Patek Philippe album cover is the stone-cold proof appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Reviewing the affordable Dryden Heartlander automatic field watch. Read to view hands-on photos, specs, pricing, and more.
Time+Tide
Watches & Wonders is obviously a great time to get introduced to some of the biggest novelties of the year across 40-plus brands. But, it is also a rare moment each year where our global team finds themselves all in one place together. Last year, you let us know you really enjoyed our meet the … ContinuedThe post KISS, MARRY, KILL: The Time+Tide team reveal their picks from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Smiths Watch Company traces its history all the way back to 1851, the year that its founder, Samuel Smith, Sr., opened his watch and clock shop on Newington Causeway in London. Like other horological concerns in the late 19th Century, the family firm, originally dubbed S. Smith & Sons, specialized in pocket watches. It was quite successful, eventually moving its headquarters to a larger venue on London’s bustling Strand and opening shops in the fashionable Piccadilly and Trafalgar Square marketplaces. By the early 20th Century, S. Smith & Sons had staked out a substantial spot in British watchmaking history, producing in 1900 the groundbreaking “mileometer,” a device that combined a speedometer and an odometer; and becoming a trusted purveyor of timepieces and other instruments to the Royal Family in 1904, when King Edward VII commissioned a speedometer from the firm for his personal Mercedes motorcar. It was the rise of the automobile, in fact, that brought Smiths much of its expansion in the coming decades. Another company, Smiths Motor Accessories, opened up in 1914, run by Samuel Smith Sr.’s grandson Allan Gordon Smith, which produced carburetors, speedometers, and other accessories for the growing automotive industry. With the onset of the First World War, the company also started making onboard instruments for aircraft and fuses for bombs. The Smiths added another offshoot company, devoted to making English clocks, in 1931, and acquired, among other fi...
Hodinkee
A "gold" dive watch that does the trick without the weight.
Hodinkee
The next generation of the enthusiast-favorite annual calendar chronograph is reintroduced by one of its original designers.
Deployant
Its Friday! And today we take a quick comparison between the Alpa 12 Plus and the Phase One XT camera - both highly capable technical cameras .
Time+Tide
Although the French brand Yema have never stopped producing watches since their inception in 1948, their lapse into relative obscurity during the ‘80s-‘00s has to qualify them among the best brand revivals of the 21st century. Professional divers, racing chronographs, and even space-faring pilot pieces are classics of the Yema catalogue, but the Yema Urban … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Yema Urban Field combines a premium feel with vintage vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As soon as Tudor was founded as an affordable offshoot of Rolex, their cult popularity began. Even so, I don’t think many people could have predicted just how far things would come. The introduction of the Black Bay series in 2012 really accelerated Tudor’s journey out from Rolex’s shadow, and the last handful of years … ContinuedThe post Five alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay 54, since you already can’t get one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
One of the big hits of the recently completed Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco came from Vero, a brand we’ve been covering for years. The transformation that Vero has made as a company doesn’t get enough coverage. Longtime readers might remember the time we took a look at how Vero was manufacturing watches at their Oregon headquarters, but since that time, the brand has changed their strategy and found their groove with an entirely new aesthetic. In 2021, with the launch of the Open Water diver, Vero made a hard pivot toward outsourcing their manufacturing to trusted Swiss partners, and refocusing the brand on customer service (they now offer a ten year warranty) and shifting the design language into something a little bolder and more colorful. The Open Water and Workhorse Chrono have proven to be durable hits on the microbrand scene, each spawning multiple new references since they made their debuts, and now they’re joined by the Meridian, a handsome manually wound piece that is a completely Vero take on the classic field watch. Vero characterizes the Meridian as a “weekend watch,” which is borne out in the casual color schemes of the two models that recently launched the collection. First up is the Rambler, a bright blue dial with a red and white outer track, and easy to read black Arabic numerals at each hour. We also have the Rally, which is something of an inversion of the Rambler with its cream colored dial and accents in the perimeter in blue and r...
Time+Tide
RZE’s best-selling case is now paired with four ice-cold dials. Each colour is inspired by a different glacial region. It’s powered by the Seiko NH35 and made of solid titanium. RZE’s offering of high-tech and capable sports watches is second to none in the microbrand world, especially when you consider their quality versus their affordability. … ContinuedThe post The RZE Endeavour Glacier collection breaks the ice in style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Franck Muller’s latest venture into unorthodox case materials is a pair of watches with cases and dials in Damascus steel. Available only at the brand’s stores in Asia, the Vanguard “Damas” and “Damas Racing” retain the tonneau-shaped case of the brand’s bestseller but enhanced with the texture and depth of Damascus steel. Initial thoughts The use of Damascus steel gives the Vanguard a new and appealing look. Because the model has been iterated numerous times, the Vanguard line is made up of an almost endless range of variants, but mostly in conventional metal alloys or carbon composite. The Damas models easily stand apart, making them instantly recognisable. The case metal is particularly suited to the skeletonised Damas Racing – the open-worked dial contrasts against the graining of the Damascus steel, making it a perfect complement to the case material. And its open-worked numerals in Damascus steel are an especially pleasing detail. The Vanguard “Damas Racing” Both Damas models, however, are pricey relative to other Franck Muller offerings. The Vanguard “Damas” costs just over US$13,000 (and the open-worked model is almost double), making it twice as expensive as a comparable time-only Vanguard in a conventional steel case. That’s true even compared to the competition. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet, which features a similar case material, costs about the same as the open-worked Vanguard “Damas Racing”, but it’s a chronograph in...
Time+Tide
Chopard’s Alpine Eagle honours Japan with a blacked-out Shikkoku dial. The sapphire display caseback has also been tinted a dark grey. To further chase simplicity and zen, the date display has been removed. After the Chopard Alpine Eagle was introduced in 2019, putting a contemporary twist on a 1970s design, it quickly became one of … ContinuedThe post Black magic: The Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Late last year, Maurice LaCroix debuted the stealthy Aikon Master Grand Date Black, a tasteful amalgamation of their integrated steel sports AIKON collection and their more refined Masterpiece collection, fittingly dressed in black on black attire. Assisted by the gentle use of white dial accents and emblazoned with an open heart display, the AIKON Master Grand Date Black features a distinguishable off-center dial, grand date complication, and a small through-dial window partially revealing their in-house ML331 movement. It’s most certainly a significant step for the brand in terms of blending their different design languages, but a conservative step in regards to the monochromatic aesthetic. We are most certainly aware that Maurice LaCroix knows how to let loose when it comes to the application of vibrant colors throughout their entire range, and with warmer weather and sunny skies afield, it was only appropriate that ML released a more playful take on their AIKON Master Grand Date. The Maurice LaCroix Grand Date Technicolour comes in four different colorways that taps into the vibrancy and playful use of color in their AIKON #tide collection. Now with a wider color spectrum at their disposal, accompanied by high-end watchmaking at its core and a sport watch build, you can in-arguably make the case that the Grand Date Technicolour touches on all design aspects of the brand. The Grand Date Technicolour retains the asymmetric dial configuration that makes these types of w...
Worn & Wound
Zurich based brand Maurice de Mauriac has added a new watch to their Chrono Modern collection inspired by their participation in the grueling North Cape Expedition. The 11 day expedition took a team to the northernmost point on the European continent, the tip of Norway, across the 71st parallel and into the Arctic circle. The task was undertaken by the Alpineracer team in a BMW E30 (with a Genesis GV70 coming along as a support vehicle), and Maurice de Mauriac created a special version of their toughest chronograph to mark the occasion. If you’re from a part of the world where there is significant snowfall in the winter, and you happen to also sometimes need to drive a car in those conditions, you know that even a few minutes on icey, snow covered roads in freezing weather can be anything from a nuisance to absolutely terrifying. It’s certainly not something I look forward to, and generally try to avoid when I have the opportunity to do so. Now imagine driving into increasingly more difficult and dangerous conditions for over a week. According to Maurice de Mauriac, the Alpineracer team experienced the requisite challenges with weather (hail, snow, and freezing rain, to start) and a handful of mechanical issues with the car, but ultimately they made it, and the photos that came out of the trip that you can see here are truly breathtaking. For participants (in both body and spirit) a watch connected to the journey feels like a fitting memento. The Chrono Modern Nort...
Hodinkee
With the NBA Playoffs set to tip off, we look at a collection as versatile as Harris's game.
Time+Tide
The Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium brings lightness to the original Excalibur design A case-matching multi-link bracelet completes the monochrome design Equipped with a micro-rotor, the calibre RD720SQ is an utterly avant-garde take on a time-only movement You may be surprised to learn, as I was, that Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur collection is coming up on nearly two … ContinuedThe post The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers a subtler take on the brand’s avant-garde designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The program, announced in December, will begin its U.S. rollout at Tourneau | Bucherer this month.
Worn & Wound
I must admit that I have been admiring this LA-based microbrand from afar for quite some time. I promise I will try to avoid the easy pun about taking “Nodus” despite my Dad status and love of cringy, unfunny jokes. Although Nodus watches have been a regular feature on my Instagram feed and at RedBar events, I haven’t had the chance to try them on or examine them closely myself. So when Nodus reached out and offered me a sneak peek at their new Unity line of watches, I jumped at the opportunity. Soon after, my curiosity got the best of me and I asked for a review sample. After seeing the watch in photographs, I was intrigued by its unique concept and bold use of color. It struck me as distinct from anything else in the Nodus catalog, particularly in contrast to their previous Duality Unity with its dual crown and inner rotating bezel. Still, I had reservations about where a watch like this could fit into my collection. A few days later, it arrived, and the timing couldn’t have been better. I wore it during a sunny Easter weekend and for a few days at the beach, and my initial intrigue quickly turned into fondness. The attention to detail, comfort, and playful color scheme charmed me. $700 Hands On with the All New Nodus Unity Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Pink/Blue Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 150 Dimensions 36.5 x 43.5mm Thickness 11.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $700 The first...
Worn & Wound
Pardon the pun, but some things in the watch industry tend to happen like clockwork. Every spring, brands seem to understand that a selection of bright colors is going to put us in just the right mood heading into the warmer months, and we see releases from brands across the horological map opting for a rainbow of pastels and brighter tones that make you want to get outdoors, smell the flowers, fight your allergies, and all of the other springtime rituals we can’t get enough of. I’m not complaining: I love color, and I especially love thawing out of those long New Hampshire winters, so a release like the new Timex T80 Hyperbrights just puts a smile on my face. The Hyperbrights collection takes the classic T80 format and puts it through what is almost a psychedelic lens. What we have here are a trio of watches, each featuring a multi-tone dial and gradient resin straps that shifts from the dominant color to adjacent hues as it wraps around the wrist. The Blue Haze features a stainless steel case and complementary tones of light blue and green, and the Purple Haze is the latest watch to include what I think is clearly the color of the moment, along with darker tones of blue. Rounding out the trio we get the Pink Haza, which matches elements of the strap to the gold tone case for a rich, warm look. Timex does a great job of introducing new concepts and themes through watches that are familiar, and that’s exactly what they’ve done here, taking an 80s classic like the...
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