Deployant
New: Vianney Halter x Massena Lab Old Soul
Introducing Old Soul, an interesting collaboration from Massena Lab with Vianney Halter, masterfully blending the legendary aesthetics of both.
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Monochrome
Introducing – The New & Vibrant M.A.D. Editions x Yinka Ilori “Grow Your Dreams”
Launched as a side project next to his main brand MB&F;, Max Busser created M.A.D.Editions first as a way to reward friends of the brand, long collectors and suppliers for their continuous support. There was no intention for it to become a brand on its own, but what followed saw an unprecedented momentum beyond the […]
Quill & Pad
New Release: M.A.D.Editions x Yinka Ilori: M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’
Color has always been a very important part of the M.A.D.Editions collection, but these new models by British-Nigerian artist/designer Yinka Ilori take color to a whole new level. These watches may have been inspired by nature, but rarely does nature look this vibrant . . . or this crazy!
Monochrome
First Look – The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite
Released in 2021, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport has been quite a success for the Le Locle-based brand. A versatile sports chronograph with enough arguments, visually and mechanically, to compete with the heavyweights of the category, it has been made in an array of different versions since its introduction. Ranging from classic to bold, we’ve seen […]
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin debuts new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin configurations
Two new grails courtesy of the Holy Trinity brand, Vacheron Constantin.The post Vacheron Constantin debuts new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin configurations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Striking New Hues for the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual
The recently launched 222 in steel may be the watch of the hour, but Vacheron Constantin continues to build out the Overseas line with a facelift for the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 4300V that gets new dials in burgundy and pink gold, both with pale blue accents. While the new pair are built on old bones, they remain competitive and appealing thanks to the extremely slim profile, great dials and well-appointed bracelets. Initial thoughts While the fad for integrated bracelet sport watches has cooled off, the genre remains remain popular and new contenders emerge every day, compelling established players to reinvent themselves. The Overseas Perpetual Calendar is definitely an established player in this segment and competitive with most of the market, at least for now. The thin movement inside has a proven track record by virtue of its age (the basic architecture debuted in 1967). Moreover, the Overseas perpetual also deserves praise for being very good looking, especially with the new burgundy dial. The blue accents work surprisingly well against the burgundy, though less so against pink gold. That said, the age of the movement is significant. It was easy to ignore the movement when the same was true of its peers. That is changing; Audemars Piguet overhauled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with an all-new movement earlier this year, which features an entirely crown-set calendar. While I think the difficulty of setting perpetual calendars with pushers is exa...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Piaget Altiplano 910P and Ultimate Concept Tourbillon in Khaki Green
As one of the main competitors in the battle for the thinnest watches, Piaget has had quite a few records on its hands, using the emblematic Altiplano watch collection as the vessel to deliver record-thin models. The Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) made some noise by becoming the thinnest mechanical watch ever in 2016, and the […]
Fratello
The People Have Spoken: The Rolex Datejust 1601 Reigns Supreme
After weeks of discussion among our editors and a single session of reader voting, the results are clear: the Rolex Datejust 1601 has emerged as the favorite in our editors’ Datejust lineup. While initially highlighted by Thomas van Straaten as his pick, the 1601 received 41% of the vote, demonstrating broad appeal among collectors and […] Visit The People Have Spoken: The Rolex Datejust 1601 Reigns Supreme to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Introduces the AIKONIC, a New Sporty Take on the Popular AIKON Models
Since its inception in 2016, the AIKON line has been Swiss watchmaker Maurice Lacroix’s bestselling collection. Nine years later, the brand is ready to kick it up a notch. The new aptly-named AIKONIC series packs updated mechanics and new materials into an upgraded case design with pops of color, promising innovation in the urban watch space while maintaining the original watch’s flavor. Does it land? Let’s take a look. The first new aspect of note for the AIKONIC collection is the 43mm case; while it retains the familiar six double-wide “arms” around the bezel, a tactile grip cover is added to the crown. Both the bezel and the crown cover are composed of matt ceramic, which promises scratch-free usage for years to come. And while the case remains steel, it features both brushed and polished surfaces for visual and tactile complexity. The carbon dial, too, is all-new on the AIKONIC. With carbon fiber strands running north to south in one direction as opposed to interwoven, each dial is slightly distinct from the next. Maurice Lacroix collaborated with a Swiss partner to create the dials, resulting in a construction that is fresh both structurally and aesthetically. The noth-south carbon pattern indeed gives each dial a vertical wave pattern, diversifying the design from both a textural and visual standpoint. Atop the dial sits silver text details, rhodium indices and second hand, and rhodium-facetted hour and minute hands. A sapphire crystal with anti-reflect...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph now in British Racing Green and Dune
Favre Leuba was never shy to bring colour and character to its watches, and the Chief Chronograph is no exception. Launched in 2024 as a modern revival of the brand’s 1970s designs, the new models got noticed with their distinctive looks and rather complex dial construction. Now, the line welcomes two fresh references, presented in […]
Time+Tide
Wren and Ben’s Watches unveil the Diver One Magma, a diver that epitomizes the modern watch community
Wrist Enthusiast founder Craig Karger's microbrand joins forces with the affable Ben Cook of Ben's Watches on a hot little dive watch.The post Wren and Ben’s Watches unveil the Diver One Magma, a diver that epitomizes the modern watch community appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold – Catrina Skull
Jaquet Droz releases the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold with a metiérs d'art dial featuring the Catrina Skull, an incarnation of the Mexican Day of the Dead.
Monochrome
First Look – The Ming 57.04 Iris, A Destro Monopusher Chronograph Launching the Fifth-Generation Design
Independent watchmaking thrives on daring ideas, and Ming is one of the few modern brands that embody this spirit vividly. Since its debut in 2017, the collective led by designer and photographer Ming Thein has built an impressive catalogue of over 75 references, each exploring a distinct facet of horology. The early 17-series brought the […]
Worn & Wound
Ming Debuts their Fifth Generation Design Language with the 57.04 Iris
It comes up, somehow, in almost every article you read about Ming: they have an incredibly distinct design language all their own. How many times have you read something like, “you can spot a Ming from across the room!” I admit, we’re as guilty as anyone. But it’s undeniable that the look of these watches defines them, and that they’ve landed on something with that flying blade lug design that is both easily identifiable and well suited to building a supremely comfortable case. It’s something that’s always been there, but has slowly evolved over the course of Ming’s still relatively short history. Today, the brand announces the new 57.04 Iris, the first watch in what the brand terms as their fifth generation design. It’s at once both a radical departure from previous Ming designs, and very much related to all that’s come before. The new 57.04 is influenced rather unapologetically by Art Deco design cues, particularly the dramatic stepped lugs, still with the same flared design. Ming says that the lugs make use of nine separate pieces in what has to be one of the most complex case designs the brand has attempted to date. The top of each step is polished and sides (which have very small surface areas by design) are brushed. It’s a bold design for sure, and makes an immediate impression, and strikes me as being quite a bit more ornate than the inherently minimalistic case designs Ming has produced in the past. Still, the shape is unmistakably Ming. T...
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Ming 57.04 Iris Chronograph
The folks at Ming showed us a host of upcoming releases and conceptual drawings during our time with them at Time To Watches in Geneva. As the two biggest fans of the brand on the Fratello team, Balazs and I have had the difficult task of keeping our traps shut until these pieces are eventually […] Visit Hands-On With The New Ming 57.04 Iris Chronograph to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Interview: Breguet CEO Gregory Kissling on the Past and Future
Appointed to the top job at Breguet just under a year ago, Gregory Kissling trained as a movement constructor and spent most of his career leading Omega’s product development. A native of the Vallee de Joux, Mr Kissling is now in charge of one of the most revered names in watchmaking, which this year celebrates its 250th year. Aided by his background in product and long tenure at Swatch Group, the parent of Breguet, Mr Kissling is off to a running start. He has already made his mark with anniversary editions like the Classic Souscription, a simple but smart creation I rate highly, and holds ambitions to elevate the brand to where it should be. He was recently in Singapore to open Breguet’s new boutique in Ion Orchard, a mall on the city’s premier shopping street, and I got my first face-to-face with him since he assumed the role. We discussed his plans for the brand founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, ranging from an increased emphasis on artisanal craft, to Breguet design, and even one-off or custom watches. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: You have one of the most interesting and exciting jobs in the Swiss watch industry; you have taken over one of its greatest brands. Gregory Kissling (GK): It is a fantastic brand and every day I learn something new [about its history]. The heritage and legacy are immense. And also the fact that Breguet has a true manufacture – we produce everything in house but also thanks to the sister company of Swatch Grou...
SJX Watches
Prix Gaïa 2025 Awarded to Dr Helmut Crott for Scholarship
Awarded annually by the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), one of Switzerland’s leading timekeeping museums, the Prix Gaïa recognises individuals who have contributed to watchmaking in three categories. This year’s winner in the “History [and] Research” category is Dr Helmut Crott. Best known for having founded the eponymous auction house, Dr Crott is also an author, scholar, and former owner of Urban Jürgensen, amongst other roles. In 2021 he authored Le Cadran, an in-depth study of dials and dial making techniques of 20th century wristwatches. Le Cadran by Dr Helmut Crott Past winners of the Prix Gaïa include Reinhard Meis, Jonathan Betts, Pierre-Yves Donzé, Kathleen Pritschard, and Ludwig Oechslin, all scholars and authors who have contributed substantively to the body of knowledge in the field. Alongside Dr Crott, this year’s winners are Jean-Jacques Paolini for “Entrepreneurship”, and Roger W. Smith for “Craftsmanship [and] Creation”. As the successor to Georges Daniels’ brand of English watchmaking, Mr Smith now produces watches under his own name, with his achievements and timepieces well known. Jean-Jacques Paolini Mr Paolini, on the other hand, is less known outside the industry, but he is arguably most responsible for building the enterprise that’s the largest employer in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1980, Mr Paolini took over his family’s case and bracelet manufacturing business, developing its operations sufficiently that it was acq...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase now in Blue Editions
The Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase has long been one of Union Glashütte’s signature watches, combining Saxon craftsmanship with the appeal of a complete calendar and lunar display. In 2023, the Belisar Chronograph line received a welcome refresh with sleeker proportions, more angular bezels, and a renewed emphasis on legibility. This year, the usually classic Belisar […]
Fratello
A Return To Elegant Simplicity: Five Watch Options With Arabic Numerals
Arabic numerals are often recognized as one of the easiest means to read the time at a glance. For centuries, Roman numerals were the fashionable standard for time-telling. These days, Arabic numerals, alongside markers, are now considered more of a “standard” means of telling the time. This is particularly relevant in the digital age, when […] Visit A Return To Elegant Simplicity: Five Watch Options With Arabic Numerals to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition In Burgundy
A rattrapante, split-second, or double chronograph is not something you see every day. Such a chronograph, capable of measuring intermediate times without interrupting the ongoing measurement of a longer elapsed time, is a seriously complicated watch. For many, including me, the double chronograph is one of the most fascinating complications the world of Haute Horlogerie […] Visit Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition In Burgundy to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The new Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24
Headquartered in the historical centre of Delft, The Netherlands, Holthinrichs Watches, named after its founder Michiel Holthinrichs, is one of the rising stars of the indie watchmaking scene. The brand has a truly unique approach to design and manufacturing, combining advanced metal printing techniques (yes, 3D printed cases are THE signature feature there) with high-end […]
Fratello
Looking At The Rolex Gifted To Sir Edmund Hillary After His Everest Ascent
The ascent of Mt. Everest by Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953 is etched into Rolex folklore. British watch company Smiths was the official supplier of 15 watches to the British expedition involved in the 1953 ascent. It is highly likely that the Smiths watches, not Rolex Oyster Perpetuals, were worn at the […] Visit Looking At The Rolex Gifted To Sir Edmund Hillary After His Everest Ascent to read the full article.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – The Ceramic Edge with Five Scratch-Proof Chronographs
Continuing from last week’s Buying Guide, where we listed a series of titanium watches perfect for life during the summer, we return to the topic once more. But, to avoid repeating ourselves too much, now we take a look at another material perfectly suited for hot days: ceramic! Primarily known for its resistance to scratches […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Vs. Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”
It’s Sunday morning, so fire up the engines and prepare for a nice weekend drive. The question is, what is the racing chronograph of choice for today? Two suggestions go head to head in this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown. Mike’s pick is the classic-looking TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf in titanium. This lightweight version […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Vs. Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
New releases from Doxa, Maurice Lacroix, Time+Tide x Dennison and more
DateNights, Desert Kings and Billions of Oysters... We unveiled our first dress watch this week, but it wasn't the only collab that dropped.The post New releases from Doxa, Maurice Lacroix, Time+Tide x Dennison and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, and Gear: The Severance keyboard, Lancaster Watch Weekend, and more
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Lancaster Watch Weekend Lancaster Watch Weekend is almost here, and it’s an event that you should absolutely have marked on your calendar if you’re a fan of American watchmaking, and watchmaking history more broadly. Lancaster, PA is home, of course, to the original Hamilton factory and company headquarters, and the small Pennsylvania city remains a haven for watch lovers even decades after the brand moved to Switzerland. That’s largely thanks to the work of the NAWCC, whose museum resides in nearby Columbia, and will be hosting guests and special presentations throughout the weekend. You can also check out an open house at RGM Watch Co.’s headquarters in Mt. Joy (about a half hour from Lancaster) and hit up events at Lancaster’s Hamilton boutique over the course of the weekend. Lancaster Watch Weekend will run from September 26-28, in and around Lancaster. A full schedule of events can be found here. The MDR Dasher: An Innie’s Keyboard, for Your Outie In the midst of searching for retrofuturistic technology that would eventually be featured in Apple TV’s “Severance”, the product team rediscovered a 1970’s keyboard from Data General called ...
Quill & Pad
New Release: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph
Foudroyante, which is French for lightning bolt), chronographs have always been very rare because in measuring fractions of a second by driving a hand that rotates every second uses a lot of energy. With the Nano Foudroyante: Greubel Forsey has solved the inherent drawbacks in foudroyante chronographs by using nanotechnology to reduce power consumption by an incredible 1,800 times!
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – The MGA Roadster Redefined, By Frontline
Built in the hundreds of thousands, if not millions, the British two-seater sports car is an automotive genre in itself. It comes in many guises, but the recipe is pretty much the same every single time: compact, lightweight, a curvaceous exterior and room for two plus a bit of luggage (or tools and parts). But […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Solar Watches
Solar watches are an eco-friendly alternative to traditional quartz watches with lithium battery-powered movements. Watches with solar-powered movements still maintain the accuracy and reliability of quartz technology, which makes them much more precise than any mechanical watch. Here's a brief history of solar technology in watchmaking and a selection of notable solar watches on sale now. Solar Watch Technology - A Brief History In the late 1960s, the Swiss watch industry was on the precipice of a technical revolution that would ultimately threaten the very existence of traditional mechanical watchmaking while simultaneously ushering in the dawn of mass-produced electronic watches. By the 1970s, quartz movements had won out over a handful of other early technological approaches to producing electronic watches (you can delve a bit more into that history here), giving rise to the era now known known within the industry as the Quartz Crisis. Experiments with using solar power to charge watches, however, go all the way back to the '60s, to the development of the first solar-powered movement by American engineer Roger Riehl. This technology was introduced to the market in 1972, with the first prototype called the “Synchronar” and the first production piece, the Synchronar 2100, released later that same year. Priced at nearly $500 (about $3,200 in today's money), the Synchronar 2100 was considered something of a luxury product and struggled to compete in...
Worn & Wound
Review: the LÖBNER Steelracer Chronograph
There are two kinds of tool watches out there. There are the tool watches we typically think of: sporty, rugged types, often divers or field watches, that can take a beating. And then there is the other type of tool watches, which are simply watches that resemble tools. No, not in the human sense, but rather technical items like gauges and other instruments. Germany’s LÖBNER’s current watches firmly fit in the latter category, though they are not unwelcome in the former. Founded in 1862, LÖBNER specialized in precision timing equipment, such as stopwatches that could time to 1/100th of a second, as well as military chronoscopes that went all the way to 1/1000th of a second. They were a timekeeper at the Olympic Games, and worked closely with motorsports. The brand ceased operation in 1944 and was revived in 2023 with the launch of both three-hand and chronograph models. Designed by Emmanuel Dietrich, also of the eponymous brand Dietrich, for its relaunch, LÖBNER set out to create luxury timepieces that speak to this heritage while pursuing a distinct personality through a strict design language and novel functionality. The resulting models, a three-hander with an internal bezel called Sledge and a chronograph called Steelracer, feature angular integrated bracelet designs and dials with a graphic sensibility. LÖBNER was kind enough to send both over to check out, though for the sake of brevity, this review focuses on the Steelracer chronograph. Featuring an integrat...