Deployant
New and Reviewed: Watch Ho & Co X Selten Jui
Commorating the 2nd anniversary Watch Ho & Co X Selten Jui (聚) is a timepiece steeped in Cantonese tradition & camaraderie of the watch collecting community
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Deployant
SJX Watches
Omega Upgrades the Aqua Terra 150M Turquoise with a Ceramic Bezel
Omega continues its trickle of summer releases with the Aqua Terra 150M Turquoise, which has its smoked turquoise dial now matched with a black ceramic bezel for a cohesive look. Available in both 38 mm and 41 mm formats, the new Aqua Terra is pricier and arguably less versatile than the standard Aqua Terra, yet is strongly appealing – is the blue worth the green? Initial Thoughts The ceramic mania that gripped the industry a few years ago has cooled, but the material is here to stay, and this example is all the better for it. We’ve already seen this dial on a pair of bracelet-borne Aqua Terra earlier this year. Now it’s back with an integrated rubber strap and complementary black ceramic bezel. Even though this lacks the bracelet of the all-steel version, it’s more expensive, priced at about US$1,000 over the steel model on a bracelet. The retail price of US$7,300 is still affordable, and acceptable given the level of quality, but the value proposition is less clear. While the Aqua Terra’s boardwalk-to-boardroom versatility makes it a prime candidate for someone’s sole, “go anywhere, do anything” watch, the exotic colour palette and lack of a bracelet rule it out as such for most people. Instead, I imagine Omega is targeting brand fans who are less price-sensitive looking for a summer watch. Even for an owner of more than one Omega, the new Aqua Terra is different enough to make it interesting. Deja Blue While no longer novel, the fume turquoise dial rema...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition In Steel And Yellow Gold
I bet you’ve read the expression “When life turns you upside down, simply adjust your view!” before. The saying came to mind when the latest version of the Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition arrived at Fratello HQ. This steel and yellow gold monopusher chronograph has an open-worked movement, and this in-house caliber 16.26 […] Visit Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition In Steel And Yellow Gold to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
31 Crazy Unique Watches
Generally speaking, most watch consumers tend to prefer watch designs that are - for lack of a better term - approachable, the kind of style that can be worn every day without drawing an undue amount of attention. Class is often associated with being understated, after all. For most enthusiasts, design, craftsmanship, mechanical complexity, and value for dollar are all subjectively weighed in an effort to determine the most appropriate timepiece decision. Naturally, the result is that the watch industry focuses a great deal of its effort on practical designs intended to please a large percentage of the population in an ultimate effort to sell. Outliers and more novel designs are considered risky and are often left behind in the race for mass-market appeal. But what if, some independent watchmakers ask, you’ve simply had enough of brands cutting-and-pasting each other’s designs? We’ve all noted, “That’s more or less a Rolex Submariner,” one too many times when seeing the latest "new" piece. Let's say that sometimes you may want something different and maybe even a little bit crazy. And for the sake of argument, and for a more comprehensive list, let's also say you have a nice chunk of money to spend. Sure, you could take your cash and make an informed, reasonable decision to keep on fitting in with all the other watch nerds on your Instagram feed, but this list is for enthusiasts interested in the road less traveled, searching for different, interesti...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date with “Plasma” and “Fusion” Dials
Glashütte Original’s Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, introduced in 2014, captured the design groove of 1970s watches with TV-shaped profiles. However, instead of settling for an accomplished vintage-inspired watch, GO went that extra mile and equipped it with its signature Panorama date display and a sophisticated flyback chronograph movement. Unafraid of colour, the Seventies strides in […]
Worn & Wound
Five Underrated Watches Under $5,000
There’s a universal appeal to the idea of the hidden gem. Whether it’s a watch, a movie, or a vacation destination, we all enjoy reveling in the underrated to some extent. It’s part of that sense of discovery that draws us to an enthusiast pursuit in the first place. As the watch world, and enthusiasm around the hobby grows, it gets harder to identify watches that are truly underrated – every watch seems to have its moment in the sun. We thought it would be fun to identify a handful of watches that feel genuinely underrated at this particular moment, all under $5,000. Let us know your picks in the comments! Zach Kazan – Tudor Black Bay P01 It was surprisingly challenging for me to think of the right underrated watch to discuss here. One of the problems with the way we talk about watches in 2025 is that everything, from the most mundane, black dialed diver, to highly experimental haute horlology, is heaped with praise. It’s not that the praise isn’t always warranted – there are a lot of great watches out there – but the inverse of this question, the most overrated watches on the market, would probably be a little easier to respond to. But, in the interest of keeping things positive, we thought, for now, we’d try to shine a light on some watches that don’t get enough attention. Usually when we’re creating a group oriented list like this, my mind immediately goes to the independents. You could say I’m always trying to highlight the underrated s...
Teddy Baldassarre
An Inside Look At The New Glashütte Original Dial Manufacture
Here’s the headline: this summer, the namesake and flagbearer of the Glashütte watchmaking region, Glashütte Original, has opened its own, dedicated dial manufacture. You might be asking yourself, “I thought G.O. already did everything in-house, what’s the deal?” And while you would be right to ask, the basis of the question is also correct. Glashütte Original, while owned by Swatch Group, does, in fact, “do everything in-house,” or to be more specific: 95% of everything. However, up to this point, the dials for G.O. watches were made in a facility six hours away in Pforzheim. This move has brought production to a 5,000-plus-square-foot facility that is just a quick float down the babbling Muglitz River - 450 meters, to be exact. In a market where collectors are placing increasing importance on “in-house” everything, this is a big move for a company that has been preaching the Homemade Gospel from the Saxon hilltops for decades. Not only does this allow for more agile production timelines, but it increases G.O.’s production capabilities as a whole. G.O. brought me to Germany to see the new facility and to tour the full manufacture as well. In addition to the photos here, which won’t tell the full story, we also have a full video touring the manufacture. This sort of care for detail and attention to craftsmanship is deeply ingrained in the region, and in Glashütte Original as a brand. The people at this manufacture take the namesake very seriously...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Nodus Contrail GMT 'Evergreen' and Duality II 'Drift Blue'
Two new affordable and purpose-built watches to get ready for a fall full of exploration and adventure.
Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces a 41mm Essence with a New Dial and Some New Features
Formex has a new watch, and, despite the name, it has absolutely nothing to do with the classic Hanna-Barbera character, or his eponymous talk show, Space Ghost Coast to Coast. Still, the Formex Essence “Space Ghost,” the latest addition to Formex’s seemingly ever-expanding Essence collection, is here, and brings a new dimension, a new dial, and some impressive new quality of life improvements to the incredibly popular line of everyday sports watches. The biggest headline here is that the new “Space Ghost” comes in at 41mm across, a new dimension for the Formex Essence, falling squarely between established 39mm and 43mm options.The new Essence is more than a hastily resized version of either of these pre-existing models though. The watch - which is powered by the same Sellita SW200-1 COSC-certified movement as its larger and smaller siblings - though unmistakably an Essence, entirely reworks the proportions of the model. The watch is still thin, at 10.6mm, and compact, with a 46.5mm lug-to-lug. It also keeps the 22mm lug width of the 43mm Essence, so most of their existing strap line will be compatible with the new watch. Two piece straps are all compatible with Formex’s existing carbon fiber deployment clasp with integrated, on-the-fly micro-adjust, but the real story on the wrist is the revised bracelet design. The new bracelet hosts a bunch of small upgrades, including new screws that eliminate the need for Loctite or any equivalents, but the most notice...
Fratello
Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial
What I love about Farer is that you recognize their watches instantly. Over time, the English brand has developed a collection with a very distinct style. The dial colors, the font types, and the colorful overall presence of the watches have gained Farer many fans. The latest addition to the line-up is the new Integra […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – Omega Launches Two New Seamaster Aqua Terra Turquoise with Ceramic Bezels
Since its introduction in 2002, the Seamaster Aqua Terra has gained the status of the all-terrain watch by Omega, as its name suggests. Despite its clear nautical inspiration, this watch is your perfect everyday all-rounder, capable of tackling most environments and still look classy when needed. By now, the collection has grown to include virtually […]
Fratello
Introducing: New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Turquoise Watches In 38 And 41mm
Calling the new Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Turquoise watches in 38 and 41mm summer watches would sell them short. Because of the vibrant turquoise dial with a black gradient effect, these two newcomers don’t look like “Ibiza watches,” but more like timepieces in the style of Terceira Island in the Portuguese archipelago of the Azores. […] Visit Introducing: New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Turquoise Watches In 38 And 41mm to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Omega tweaks the turqouise fumé Seamaster Aqua Terra with an ultra-cool ceramic bezel
Summery yet sultry, the addition of a black ceramic bezel to these turquoise fumé-dialled Aqua Terras makes a surprising difference.The post Omega tweaks the turqouise fumé Seamaster Aqua Terra with an ultra-cool ceramic bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Formex Essence Space Ghost 41mm Automatic COSC
Formex’s Essence line, introduced in 2018, quickly earned respect as the brand’s versatile, go-anywhere sports watch, combining sharp case architecture, great engineering, and chronometer-certified accuracy. In 2020, the collection took on a cosmic turn with the debut of the Space Rock editions, featuring dials cut from the ancient Muonionalusta meteorite. Over time, these rare cosmic […]
Fratello
Turning Visual Brilliance Up To Eleven With A White Gold Rolex Datejust With A Burl Wood Dial
Since we’re celebrating the 80th birthday of the Rolex Datejust, we thought it would be a good idea to have Fratello writers pick their favorite one of all time. The biggest challenge of writing an article in the tail-end of this Datejust series is that other writers have already claimed some of my favorite picks. […] Visit Turning Visual Brilliance Up To Eleven With A White Gold Rolex Datejust With A Burl Wood Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches?
This week, on Fratello Talks, RJ, Thomas, and Nacho are asking the question: Does storytelling still sell watches? For decades, brands have built emotional bridges to their customers with tales of adventure, endurance, and achievement. Think of the watches strapped to astronauts on lunar missions, divers exploring the ocean’s depths, or pilots navigating across continents. […] Visit Fratello Talks: Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Business News: Audemars Piguet Advances Vertical Integration with Inhotec
Audemars Piguet (AP) has just announced a majority stake in Inhotec, a supplier of components for high-end mechanical movements. Long a supplier to AP, Inhotec produces parts ranging from base plates to springs, in both raw and fully decorated states. The value of the deal was not revealed, but founder Alexandre Eme will retain a minority stake and continue to serve as chief executive of Inhotec, which was founded in 2011. According to the announcement, AP will “provide strategic and financial support” while leaving Inhotec to retain “operational autonomy” over “managerial decisions, industrial activities and commercial relationships”. Lucas Raggi, the chief industrial officer of AP, explains the acquisition “is about consolidating key strategic skills and supporting the continuity of an expertise that is essential to the future of haute horlogerie“. AP’s acquisition of Inhotec reflects two trends. One is the longstanding and continued development of AP’s production capabilities, exemplified by the recent inauguration of the expansive Arc manufacture in Le Brassus. The other is macro, a slowdown in business for specialised suppliers across the watchmaking value chain.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Ultimate Guide To The Seiko 5 'SKX' GMT (2026)
If you’ve been in the watch game for long enough, there is a better-than-zero chance that you’ve owned, had someone recommend for you to own, or have at least come across the Seiko SKX series. The Seiko SKX (notably the black SKX007 and Pepsi-style SKX 009) once served as the go-to value proposition in all of watches. You can still find them trading on the open market for upwards of $500, but there was a time where one could be had easily for $150-$200. A 42mm, ISO-certified, bona-fide dive watch, the SKX represents the last vestige of a true tool watch that predates hype and everything that comes with it. I own one, and continue to wear it, scratch it and bang it around fearlessly. Seiko filled the dive-adjacent void once filled by the SKX, now discontinued, with a series of Seiko 5 models in all manner of colors that resemble the SKX but never quite took the idea across the finish line. And that’s because the SKX was a cult classic for a reason. It married function and form (except for accuracy, but that’s hardly why you buy a sub-$300 diver) in a way that we only hear about in tales from our “elders” who used to buy Rolex Submariners and GMT-Masters for $150 five decades ago. It’s been a number of years now since the SKX has been a production model in the broader Seiko lineup. But just two summers ago, the venerable, vertically integrated, Japanese juggernaut of a brand unveiled something new in the Seiko 5 range – a travel-ready, SKX-looking release ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the Rolex Daytona “Alcaraz” 126518LN with Turquoise Lacquer Dial
In recent years, basically since the introduction of the ceramic bezel on the steel edition (the 116500LN), the Daytona has become the hottest watch in Rolex’s portfolio, but also remained a fairly conservative model, with a rather parsimonious use of colours. This hasn’t always been the case, though, and in the past, we’ve seen wild […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase
Now into the second half of its second century, Piaget unveiled the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase, an eccentric entrant in the crowded field of luxury sport watches. The charm of the watch lies in its unusual feature set: an extravagant dial and easy wearing format, which includes interchangeable rubber and leather straps. Housed in a sleek, 44 mm titanium case, the Polo Flying Tourbillon is the most complicated watch in the Polo collection since the underrated Polo Tourbillon Relatif introduced two decades ago. Initial thoughts I have a soft spot for watches like the Polo Flying Tourbillon that don’t fit neatly into any pre-conceived category. It’s risky to make watches like this; watches that look a bit odd on the spec sheet but feel good on the wrist. On one hand, it’s overtly sporty with a titanium case, a rubber strap, and a robust 100 m water resistance rating thanks to dual gaskets in the crown. Looked at from another perspective, it’s a piece of true industrial-haute horlogerie with a flying tourbillon and a thoughtfully executed pointer-style moonphase indicator, sans date. This last detail stands out to me, because the date and moonphase complications usually go hand-in-hand. To be clear, I don’t miss the date; its absence contributes to the care-free nature of the watch. The 44 mm titanium case looks large on paper, and indeed, the diameter is accentuated by its 9.8 mm case height, which is on the thinner side as such things go. But the Polo wears w...
Worn & Wound
G-SHOCK Enters the Metaverse with The Sandbox
There was a period of time in 2020 and 2021 when it felt like you couldn’t have a conversation with someone without hearing about cryptocurrency, the blockchain, or the metaverse. I mean, Facebook literally changed the name of the company to reflect what all signs pointed to being the future of the internet. Of course, watch brands got involved as well, with a variety of projects that sought to integrate watches (physical objects) with the digital world. I actually purchased a watch during that time period that, unbeknownst to me when I handed over the credit card, came with an NFT. The watch is gone, but somewhere on the blockchain, I guess, is an NFT tied to my watch and my watch alone. Thankfully, in my opinion, metaverse mania has slowed a bit in the watch world. It’s been a while since I saw a press release that really touted any sort of blockchain specific features. But last week, some news from G-SHOCK caught my eye. It’s not a new watch release, but rather the implementation of a new virtual G-SHOCK themed world in the metaverse, produced in partnership with The Sandbox. The Sandbox. I’ve learned, is a blockchain-based open world game that launched in November 2021. The Virtual G-SHOCK in The Sandbox project is effectively a G-SHOCK themed Sandbox experience, where you can purchase an avatar to play as based on classic G-SHOCK watch designs, play games that take you through G-SHOCK history. According to the brand, the gameplay involves “shock resistan...
Monochrome
Introducing – Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Unveils the Double Balance Wheel
Long considered a low-end production site for accessible timepieces (which is still partially true), the Chinese watch industry is fast changing and evolving in a positive direction. Besides industry giants such as Peacock and Seagull (the latter capable of making split-second chronographs), there’s a burgeoning indie scene that needs to be explored. We can name […]
Fratello
US Import Tariffs On Swiss Watches-How They Affect Watch Brands And Enthusiasts
I am sure that most of you have read about Switzerland being hit with the harshest tariffs of all European countries last week. A whopping 39% tariff on goods imported to the US from the Alpine country came into effect on August 7th. The watch world is shaking as a result. Today, I would like […] Visit US Import Tariffs On Swiss Watches-How They Affect Watch Brands And Enthusiasts to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Affordable Excellence: How High End Watch Brands are Creating Accessible Options for the Enthusiast
It is a global phenomenon: some of the most exclusive independent watch brands have in the last five years created more accessible and more affordable sister brands or collections. These are undoubtedly linked to the main brand thanks to similar design features and a similar spirit. Just look at MB&F; and its M.A.D.Editions in Switzerland, Grönefeld and Grøne in the Netherlands, and Hajime Asaoka with Kurono Tokyo. Their normal offering is in the tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars, and now their sister brands offer watches for a few thousand – and you don’t have to wait for years to get a watch. Why are they doing this? What effect does it have on the general perception of the main brand? What are the collectors’ reactions to the more accessible offerings? Occasionally, it goes in the other direction. The Finnish brand Leijona’s Heritage 1907 Collection punches above its weight. It shows that a quartz based, mass market brand can make Swiss Made mechanicals together with a legend like Kari Voutilainen. We’ll get back to that. Just as we’ll get to Swatch’s recent collaborations with its fancier siblings within the Swatch Group. This phenomenon is all but new. Just look at Rolex and Tudor, the latter registered in 1926. “It was exactly the same as what we see today. Rolex founder (Hans) Wilsdorf wanted to offer high-quality watches at more affordable prices,” said watch expert Gianfranco Ritschel. Another example, half a century removed, is Cartie...
Monochrome
Review – The Magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold
The Odysseus disembarked at A. Lange & Söhne in 2019, making a big splash as the brand’s first serially produced stainless steel luxury sports watch with an “integrated” steel bracelet and 120m water-resistance. Thanks to its unique personality and unmistakable provenance, the Odysseus rowed against many stylistic conventions established by top-tier luxury sports watches. During […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex GMT-Master II Review: The Bruce Wayne Rolex
Before getting into the so-called "Bruce Wayne Rolex," let's establish some context. The Rolex GMT-Master is one of the Crown’s most popular models when it comes to the Professional line. It’s been an icon going back to its release in 1954, born out of a partnership with PanAm (in reality, it was a masterfully executed piece of marketing) that gave way to a new jet-setting, time-zone-malleable timekeeper. Since then, the GMT-Master (now the GMT-Master II, incorporating an even more user-friendly dual-time indication) has stood alongside the Datejust and Submariner as a core icon for the brand. It has also represented a platform for innovation for Rolex, being the first model line to see the brand transition to its “Super Case” format and its use of Cerachrom bezel tech. This paved the way for the introduction of a new, steel GMT-Master II in the late aughts with a black Cerachrom bezel insert, a green GMT hand, and green dial text. This stood for years as the most under-the-radar option for potential GMT-Master II buyers that didn’t feel comfortable slapping on a "Batman" or a "Pepsi." However, like many other popular models, it was discontinued. We saw echoes of its design materialize in form of the “Lefty” GMT, with its bi-color green-and-black bezel and matching green GMT hand. But the “Sprite” didn’t strike the same chord as that discontinued OG. Then the 70th anniversary of the GMT-Master rolled around in 2024, and Rolex surprised us all when it re...
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The New Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver Collection
Unimatic has been busy introducing a string of clever new releases. Only last week, I did a hands-on review of the brand Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver from a series of nice vintage-inspired models. Today, we get treated to a new trio of models who are taking a different road. The three Modello Uno ProDiver […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver Collection to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Unimatic Introduces the New Prodiver Collection
While minimalism may be as trendy as ever these days (one look at any modern car interior will tell you that) a lot of brands miss the mark when it comes to balancing that aesthetic with function, or the lack thereof. Not so with Unimatic’s all-new Prodiver line, which promises both a streamlined design language and robust mechanical functionality. But do the watches actually pull it off? Let’s take a deeper dive and find out. Perhaps the biggest factor in Unimatic’s favor here is the Italian brand’s penchant for design cohesiveness across their lineup. Even before taking the new Prodiver into consideration, Unimatic watches share aesthetic hallmarks, namely chunky, round indexes, sans serif typefaces, and symmetrical dial balance. Even models that deviate from this norm, like the UT1 and UT4, which feature hour numerals instead, carry a uniformly round and hardy profile, which gives each Unimatic watch friendly-yet-tough dimensions. This is all personal conjecture, of course, but rarely does a brand manage to maintain consistency in design across their entire lineup quite as well as Unimatic does. Back to the Prodiver, though; like most other watches by the brand, it also bears the signature round indexes, though it adds some legitimate dive watch pedigree, too. Each of the three new Modello Uno models sports a democratically-sized case, measuring at 40mm in diameter and 49mm lug to lug. The case thickness is a healthy 14.4mm with the domed sapphire crystal, and...
Time+Tide
Best watches for kids if you want to start ’em young
The romance of wearing a wristwatch is a passion we all want to pass on to the next generationThe post Best watches for kids if you want to start ’em young appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Fratello On Air: The Watches For New Collectors Entering The Hobby
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we answer a listener’s question about the watches new collectors should consider when entering the hobby. It’s a question that has been asked many times, but, frankly, it’s been a while since we’ve tackled it. For our listeners, the watch talk begins after 23 […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Watches For New Collectors Entering The Hobby to read the full article.