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Results for Côtes de Genève

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Côtes de Genève

Parallel-striped decoration on bridges and rotors; the Swiss (or Glashütte) finishing marker.
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a True Super Watch Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo I think Apr 24, 2024

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a True Super Watch

Each year at Watches & Wonders, we see a handful of novelties that I think can fairly be described as Super Watches. These are the truly audacious creations that are, effectively, out of reach for all but that 1% of the 1% that has the coin and the inclination to buy into something incredibly niche, that’s incredibly expensive, that (honestly) might be years away from actually being produced and successfully delivered. The Grand Seiko Kodo, I think, is a good example of a Super Watch. It stopped everyone in their tracks, had an eye watering price point, and was the ultimate artistic and mechanical expression of the brand that made it. This year had a few Super Watch candidates (including another Kodo) but I think the winner walking away was a watch from A. Lange & Söhne that took the radical step of combining all the things people love about the brand into one watch. A Super Watch, if you will.  The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” was easily my favorite watch name to say aloud during the show. When someone would ask me what my favorite watch of the week was (a question you’re asked about fifty times per day, minimum) I’d reflexively say “Oh, the Lange,” and then continue, probably looking skyward while counting out the watch’s cumbersome title on my fingers, like a school kid figuring out a math problem, “the Datograph, perpetual, tourbillon, lumen,” (I’d always screw it up here) “in honeygold!” I’d be really proud of myself f...

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Rolex GMT-Master II: The Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Apr 24, 2024

Rolex GMT-Master II: The Ultimate Guide

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most coveted luxury travel watches on the planet, and its predecessor, the original, non-numerical GMT-Master, basically established the template that other dual-time zone timepieces have been following for more than half a century. Here is a detailed look at the history and evolution of the GMT-Master II, from its aviation-inspired beginnings in 1954 to the iconic status it enjoys in the modern era, with all the major models spotlighted in between. 1954: “PEPSI” FOR PILOTS Rolex, the luxury watch firm founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, achieved one of its many milestones in 1953 with the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner, the first serially produced wristwatch with a case water-resistant to 100 meters and hence one of the first and most influential watches purpose-built for diving. If the watch community was wondering what Rolex could possibly do for an encore, they didn’t have long to discover the answer. The following year, 1954, saw the introduction of another trend-setting, genre-defining timepiece, the original Rolex GMT-Master (Ref. 6542, which actually hit the market in 1955), the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal ...

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First Look – The Subtle Upgrades of the Oris Aquis Date Collection Monochrome
Oris Aquis Date Collection During Apr 24, 2024

First Look – The Subtle Upgrades of the Oris Aquis Date Collection

During Watches & Wonders 2024, Oris unveiled a new generation of its Aquis Date, the brand’s best-selling dive watch. While radically altering the design of your best-selling watch dive watch could alienate your loyal customer base and create an incoherent identity, Oris has limited its intervention to subtle design tweaks. Enhancing the watch visibly and […]

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Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase Someday Apr 24, 2024

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase

Someday, a history of this period in affordable independent watchmaking will be written, and the chapter on Christopher Ward is going to be the longest in this hypothetical volume, for sure. They’ve been around since 2004, and in the ensuing twenty years have gone through just about every high and low a watch brand can experience. While the ultimate thrust of their story is one of incredible growth, those of us who have been around for a little while can probably remember a time when the thought of Christopher Ward winning GPHG awards and being the toast of the watchmaking town would have been fairly unheard of.  The Bel Canto, introduced at the tail end of 2022, changed all that, but the brand had been on an upward trajectory for years before. They’ve come a very long way from being one of the most hotly discussed watch forum brands (so hot, in fact, they have their own forum for C. Ward enthusiasts) know primarily for somewhat generic, but always well made, dive watches. Over the years, they’ve stepped up every facet of their business, with particularly large steps taken in case finishing and movement design. In a very low key way, they are capable of doing things at the higher end of their range that other brands at similar price points simply can’t equal.  While the Bel Canto deservedly gets a lot of the press, one my favorite little pockets of Christopher Ward over the last few years has been the inventive way they’ve incorporated the classic moonphase com...

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Now In The Shop - Handmade Crocheted Watch Rolls With A Story Fratello
Apr 24, 2024

Now In The Shop - Handmade Crocheted Watch Rolls With A Story

Today, in the Fratello Shop, we’re excited to bring you an item with a real story. These are watch rolls, but they’re a little different than the everyday, mass-produced holders found online. No, these rolls are handmade and come from a small village in Slovakia. The reason for their existence relates to one of our […] Visit Now In The Shop - Handmade Crocheted Watch Rolls With A Story to read the full article.

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Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue” SJX Watches
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Apr 24, 2024

Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue”

When Rolex surprised with the launch of the 1908 last year, we liked it – Brandon Moore wrote a positive review. Now Rolex has followed up with the Perpetual 1908 in platinum (ref. 52506) with an “ice blue” guilloché dial of notably high quality. Though identical in almost all respects to the versions in gold, the new 1908 is very different – and significantly more compelling. Initial thoughts Done the traditional way with a hand-operated machine, the guilloché dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The pale blue is also more modern and striking than last year’s colours, which were fairly old fashioned. At the same time, the dial has a slightly glossy finish that gives it an even brighter hue. The guilloché transforms the dial, which was fairly staid in the earlier models. I would still do away with the peculiar hands inspired by the Submariner and other sports watches, but the dial is attractive as it is. The dial is engraved on a hand-operated rose engine Not only does it look better, the platinum 1908 also feels more appealing. It has the same slim profile as the gold versions, but has more heft thanks to the denser case material. More generally, it has the same tactile quality as all Rolex watches – it feels tangibly well made despite the compact size. While the dial is impressive artisanal quality, the rest of the watch is outstanding industrial quality. Though the case is thin, it is exceptionally robust and solid, as is the screw-down ...

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Hands-On With The SpaceOne Jumping Hour Destro Forged Carbon Fratello
Apr 24, 2024

Hands-On With The SpaceOne Jumping Hour Destro Forged Carbon

A few weeks ago, after many months of nagging, I finally received a SpaceOne Jumping Hour for a hands-on review. As someone in constant communication with Guillaume Laidet, the brand’s founder, I was fortunate enough to have followed the project from the jump-off to the point where, last year, my much-deserved beer at the Grand […] Visit Hands-On With The SpaceOne Jumping Hour Destro Forged Carbon to read the full article.

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Fratello Favorites: Gerard’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases Fratello
Apr 24, 2024

Fratello Favorites: Gerard’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases

As with the years before, I looked forward to this year’s edition of Watches and Wonders. I looked forward to the buzz, the week-long immersion in top-shelf horology, the close cooperation with Fratello team members, and, of course, being reunited with several colleagues from the industry. Beforehand, expectations on what the brands should present weren’t […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Gerard’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases to read the full article.

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The 10 Best Hamilton Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Apr 23, 2024

The 10 Best Hamilton Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast

While it’s been making its timepieces in Switzerland since the 1970s, Hamilton Watch Company, founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, has few peers when it comes to being a vital thread in the historical tapestry of American watchmaking. The heritage brand, today a part of the Swiss Swatch Group conglomerate of companies, continues to lean heavily into its New World roots for its diverse collection of product families, which ranges from military tool watches to sporty divers, from elegantly appointed dress pieces to retro-futuristic curiosities - while also maintaining a price-to-value ratio for which the brand has long been renowned. It can fairly be said that there is a Hamilton watch for just about everyone, no matter what style they’re seeking. Here, in the tradition of our previous guide to the best Longines watches, we run down 10 of our favorite Hamilton watches that run the stylistic gamut from sporty to dressy, from high-tech to classically mechanical. For the Military Buff: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Price: $595, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 9.5mm, Lug width: 20mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Mechanical Hamilton Caliber H-50 Field watches are an enduringly popular category of timepiece, and without Hamilton, the style as we know it might not even exist. Hamilton basically invented the genre with the “trench watches” that it supplied to American troops during World War I, kicking off a long tradit...

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Introducing: New Omega Speedmaster 38 Models In Full Gold And Steel Fratello
Omega Speedmaster 38 Models Apr 23, 2024

Introducing: New Omega Speedmaster 38 Models In Full Gold And Steel

On this (Speedy) Tuesday, Omega is introducing a sparkling new bunch of Speedmaster 38 models. Two are in Sedna Gold, two are in Moonshine Gold, and four variations are in stainless steel. If any of you are looking for a sport-chic, diamond-set watch with firm roots in chronograph and space history, your time might be […] Visit Introducing: New Omega Speedmaster 38 Models In Full Gold And Steel to read the full article.

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[VIDEO] The Dial as a Canvas: Our Favorite Artistic Dials Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Arcanaut Apr 23, 2024

[VIDEO] The Dial as a Canvas: Our Favorite Artistic Dials

Of all the watch collecting niches, few are more curious (and potentially divisive) than watches that are completely (or almost completely) without any markers and branding. In our hobby, legibility and a relative ease of use are often seen as high priorities, so what happens when a watchmaker decides to forego these things entirely in favor of pure artistic expression?  We’ve noticed an increase in dials of this type from brands as diverse as Christopher Ward, Arcanaut, and H. Moser recently, and it’s interesting to consider what each is attempting to accomplish. These watches fly in the face of the idea as a watch as a practical tool, and lean toward a more overtly artistic style of watchmaking. But that doesn’t necessarily make them impractical.  In this video, Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan look at a number of watches that prioritize the artistic vision of the maker by eschewing traditional markers, or other dial indicators that make it easy to precisely note the time at a glance. The post [VIDEO] The Dial as a Canvas: Our Favorite Artistic Dials appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Up For Auction: Apollo 12 Astronaut Richard Gordon’s Omega Speedmaster Professional BA145.022-69 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Professional BA145.022-69 Another Apr 23, 2024

Up For Auction: Apollo 12 Astronaut Richard Gordon’s Omega Speedmaster Professional BA145.022-69

Another gold commemorative Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 1969 “Tribute to Astronauts” is coming up for auction. This one belonged to NASA astronaut Richard F. Gordon Jr. (1929–2017). Gordon’s commemorative gold Speedmaster Apollo 11 Omega presented only 34 of these watches to NASA astronauts in 1969 and the years after. Occasionally, these gold Speedmaster models […] Visit Up For Auction: Apollo 12 Astronaut Richard Gordon’s Omega Speedmaster Professional BA145.022-69 to read the full article.

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Hands-On With The New Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - The Return Of A Zenith Dive Watch Fratello
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - Apr 23, 2024

Hands-On With The New Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - The Return Of A Zenith Dive Watch

Zenith introduced two new models worth discussing this year for different reasons. The brand’s Defy Skyline Chronograph was a logical next step for the series. It even felt like the watch had been part of the collection for some time. It just seems like a natural progression for the Defy Skyline. The second big new […] Visit Hands-On With The New Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - The Return Of A Zenith Dive Watch to read the full article.

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Amida Returns with the Digitrend SJX Watches
Apr 23, 2024

Amida Returns with the Digitrend

Amida, a historical brand recently brought back to life, has introduced its first watch in more than 45 years, the Digitrend. Based on a historical design from 1976, the new Digitrend features an upright digital jump-hour display and a retro-futuristic design. While the formula for reviving dormant brands is nothing new, the team behind Amida, led by designer Matthieu Allègre and also includes Clément Meynier and Bruno Herbet, has managed to hit all the right aesthetic notes at a reasonable price. Initial thoughts I’ve always been attracted to retro-futuristic design, and watches like the original Digitrend have a distinct appeal. Unfortunately, the quality of the originals left much to be desired. In this context I appreciate what Mr Allègre and his team have accomplished. Specifically, they’ve managed to improve the design, including the small details like the typography, without diluting the original aesthetic. Additionally, the build quality has improved over the original. The brushed steel case of the new Digitrend is simple but done well. Most importantly, they’ve installed a much higher quality movement, which is comprised of a Soprod P092 base movement with an in-house designed jump-hour module that adds just nine additional parts. This minimalist approach is commendable and should aid reliability and serviceability. The hour and minute discs rotate in the same plane as typical hands, but are then ‘projected’ to the vertical time display with a sapphir...

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Hands-On With The Impressive Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph Fratello
Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph It Apr 23, 2024

Hands-On With The Impressive Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph

It is no secret that I was impressed by a specific model in Cartier’s Watches and Wonders 2024 drop. After all, I wrote the introduction article and featured it in my W&W; favorites article. In case you missed both, I am talking about the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph. I have had a chance to go […] Visit Hands-On With The Impressive Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph to read the full article.

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Oris Aquis Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Apr 22, 2024

Oris Aquis Buyer's Guide

The Oris Aquis collection of sporty dive watches is one of the Swiss brand’s most popular - and notably hosted the first Oris watch outfitted with the in-house Caliber 400 - even though it traces its history back just over a decade, to 2011. Like many watch models that catch on strongly with both collectors and casual fans, however, it actually represents the successful evolution of several models that preceded it. Here’s everything you need to know about the Oris Aquis, from its history, to the most prominent models available now, to its central role in Oris’ environmental sustainability initiatives.  ORIS ORIGINS AND AQUIS EVOLUTION Oris, one of the watch world’s few remaining major independent brands, traces its history back to 1904, when it was founded in Hölstein, in the German-speaking Swiss canton of Basel-Landschaft, by Paul Catlin and Georges Christian. The company, which the co-founders named after a brook near the factory, expanded throughout the early 1900s, at one point becoming the largest employer in Hölstein, with over 300 employees and factories throughout Switzerland. In 1925, Oris began making wrist watches, and in 1928, under the leadership of Christian’s brother-in-law Oscar Herzog, a new era of expansion and innovation began. Oris started making its own escapements in the watershed year of 1938, which also saw the release of the brand’s iconic Big Crown watch with pointer date function. The first automatic Oris watch was launched i...

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Let’s Get Integrated: Five of Our Favorite Integrated Bracelet Sports Watches at Around $10,000 Worn & Wound
Cartier Starting Apr 22, 2024

Let’s Get Integrated: Five of Our Favorite Integrated Bracelet Sports Watches at Around $10,000

Not everyone loves a nice integrated bracelet watch in their collection, and there’s a few reasonable reasons why that may be. For one, you’re going to be stuck with the same bracelet for the rest of the watch’s natural life unless there’s an OEM leather or rubber equivalent offered by the brand (or perhaps on the aftermarket). Secondly, the integrated bracelet look can be somewhat of an acquired taste, not everyone is into that – and depending on the model the watch can appear dated, reminiscent of those oval cased watches of the past like the Universal Geneve Ultra-Slim Shadow on the Milanese bracelet.  But, for those of us who have caught the integrated bug, there’s no telling the depths we will explore in order to find that perfect integrated bracelet watch. This is a segment that will require a little more patience and finesse to discover. Once you buy the watch you have your sights set on, you can’t change much about the look afterwards, and the saying buy once, cry once really fits this category here.  Santos De Cartier Starting the list off with an absolute classic, and if you want to start here – and end here, I’d have a hard time disagreeing with you. The Santos De Cartier is an absolute icon in the watch world, dating all the way back to 1904 when it was designed by Louis Cartier for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Its roots are deeply ingrained in the evolution of aviation and it retains the title of the world’s first pilot wa...

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Introducing – The BBS-Inspired Union Glashütte Noramis Date Deutschland Klassik 2024 Monochrome
Glashütte Original Union Glashütte Apr 22, 2024

Introducing – The BBS-Inspired Union Glashütte Noramis Date Deutschland Klassik 2024

Part of the Swatch Group and close to sister brand Glashütte Original, Union Glashütte is a slightly more accessible take on German watchmaking, with a younger, sportier appeal – but still with great horological content. Over the years, the brand has built a strong connection with the world of classic cars. A partner of the […]

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Hands-on – Arnold & Son’s Take On The Integrated Sports Watch, the new Longitude Titanium Monochrome
Arnold & Son Apr 22, 2024

Hands-on – Arnold & Son’s Take On The Integrated Sports Watch, the new Longitude Titanium

Since joining Manufacture La Joux-Perret in 2010, Arnold & Son has been known for crafting impressive timepieces that exude elegance and sophistication. With their meticulously crafted dials, whether openworked, metiers d’art, or adorned with exquisite elements, these watches seemed almost too delicate to be subjected to anything other than adorning the wrist for a stylish […]

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Imperial Oceanguard GMT Review Two Broke Watch Snobs
Apr 22, 2024

Imperial Oceanguard GMT Review

Now that we're through the craze of Watches & Wonders 2024, I've gotta say that getting my thoughts down on the new Imperial Oceanguard GMT has been a real treat. Last year, I had a chance to review the brand's first release-the Royalguard 200-and I've been eager to see what the brand would follow things up with. After a bit of teasing on social media, the Imperial Oceanguard GMT was revealed this year in a run of four different colorways, each limited to 25 pieces. The one you see here is the model in "Jet Wash White" and it's one of the few remaining versions that haven't sold out. As a GMT lover, this one was a ton of fun to handle and I think it's a great buy at under $600.

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Fratello Favorites: Nacho’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases Fratello
Apr 22, 2024

Fratello Favorites: Nacho’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases

It’s been a week since we flew back from Watches and Wonders 2024. These last seven days have served well in processing everything we saw during the show. As much as the consensus might be that this year was a bit slower than the last two, there were still plenty of new watches. Brands seem […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Nacho’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases to read the full article.

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The Roundup: Limited Editions Galore and Much, Much More Worn & Wound
Formex Worn & Wound VERO Apr 21, 2024

The Roundup: Limited Editions Galore and Much, Much More

This week we throw the spotlight on some special and limited editions, including partnerships between Formex, Worn & Wound, VERO, G-Shock, and even Warner Brothers! The watches range from hardcore mechanical sport watches to playful digital timepieces. We haven’t forgotten about gear either: the RIV from Giant Mouse is a huge EDC upgrade. This is this week’s Roundup; enjoy! This week we throw the spotlight on some special and limited editions, including partnerships between Formex, Worn & Wound, VERO, G-Shock, and even Warner Brothers! The watches range from hardcore mechanical sport watches to playful digital timepieces. We haven’t forgotten about gear either: the RIV from Giant Mouse is a huge EDC upgrade. This is this week’s Roundup; enjoy! The post The Roundup: Limited Editions Galore and Much, Much More appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Established Apr 21, 2024

Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Established in 2015, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is an annual affair to recognise the next generation of watchmakers. Applicants present a timepiece of their own design and construction, which is judged by on its complexity, craftsmanship, and aesthetics by a jury including Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, and Francois-Paul Journe. While last year’s winner was a Swiss-Italian clockmaker, this year’s winner is 23-year-old Frenchman Thomas Aubert, who entered his wristwatch Séléné, a unique piece crafted in his final year at the Edgar Faure High School in Morteau, France. Amongst the standout features of the Séléné is its key-winding and -setting as well as the clever “shooting star” display on the back. The Séléné pays tribute to classical watchmaking in both style and technique, but each reinterpreted with a modern twist. As is often the case with such school watches, the movement is based on the Unitas 6497, although it underwent extensive reworking. For example, the timepiece doesn’t feature a crown; instead winding and time-setting are done via a key that goes into dedicated slots on the case back.  The front of the Séléné is classical and tastefully done, with a “grated” finish on the dial that is set on a frosted plate backdrop. The exposed balance bridge is mirror polished and chamfered. The screwed balance beats at 2.5 Hz and features a prominent Breguet overcoil hairspring. Mr Aubert is fascinated by astronomy, a passion that he...

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