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Monochrome
Block RG is a new indie watch brand with a vision to create high-end, futuristic watches unlike anything else on the market. The project was initiated by Romas Gimbutis, an entrepreneur with extensive expertise in watches, who brought together a collective of talented and creative minds to explore beyond the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. At the […]
SJX Watches
The invention of the hairspring was among the greatest breakthroughs in horology, since its inception suddenly made mechanical timepieces portable, transforming clocks into watches. This not only marked the start of precision timekeeping, but also set mankind upon the long road to perfecting the accuracy of mechanical watches, arguably the most sophisticated pieces of kit on Earth at the time, when such precision was paramount for fields as varied as navigation, warfare, and astronomy. The hairspring turned 350 years old in 2025 and we’re marking the occasion with a series of stories on the topic, including the story of the spiral hairspring and also the importance and evolution of the overcoil. Now we turn to temperature compensation and metallurgy in a two-part story covering the evolution of the hairspring materials up until metal alloys. More exotic materials and inventions will follow in Part II. Elasticity and thermal expandability One of the fundamental factors in hairspring function is ambient temperature, simply because metal alloys expand or contract uni-directionally with a change in temperature. As a result, watchmakers used calorimetry, the science of temperature effects, and material science, specifically metal alloys, to their gain in advancing hairspring technology. The equation below shows the relation between the initial length of a metal strip L0, measured at a given temperature and the final length LT after a certain change in temperature. The equ...
Time+Tide
In an act of patriotism, the Greek independent brand gives these watches to active service members of the O.Y.K.The post Ianos and the Greek Prime Minister honour the country’s most elite naval unit with 300 watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
We told you to sit tight and catch that wave when it comes around. Well, surf’s up, people, because today’s the day the frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic comes out in a limited edition of 100 watches. It’s the final “Surfer” of the trilogy and your last chance to catch […] Visit Hands-On With The Final “Surfer” - The Frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic to read the full article.
Revolution
With a career spanning seven decades, Pablo Picasso had a huge impact on 20th-century art, becoming one of the most sought after painters of the new millennium. An artistic rebel who grew fantastically wealthy within his lifetime, Picasso had a love of finery and beauty, which included his choice of wristwear.
Hodinkee
We spoke to the experts to spell out everything you need to know about the shifting value of your collection and how to protect it.
Teddy Baldassarre
Is there a contemporary field watch as beloved and versatile as the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical? At this point the illustrious military history of the Khaki Field watch has been thoroughly explored (and if you’re not familiar with it, our resident historian Mark Bernardo has written an encyclopedic guide here). In short, Hamilton produced over a million watches for the United States military during World War II with its field watch in specific garnering praise for its universally consistent quality. This predecessor to the Khaki Field was a 34mm-wide field watch done in a chrome-plated metal case with radium lume dials and a manual-wind Caliber 987 movement. The modern Hamilton Watch Company was bought by the Swatch Group in 1974 with much of the production already having moved to Switzerland in 1969. The brand’s reassertion as a bonafide, authentic maker of military tool watches with historical provenance proliferated as an entire collection under the “Khaki” umbrella. While it was still producing watches for actual military units in the 1980s and ‘90s, Hamilton had done well by marketing to civilians once again in the wake of the Vietnam War. These early post-war civilian Hamilton Khaki watches were co-branded with retailers like Brookstone, Orvis, and L.L. Bean. This was also the time during which the “Khaki” logo began popping up on their dials. In 2018, Hamilton released the Khaki Field Mechanical which has gone on to be one of the most popular and b...
Worn & Wound
British independent brand Farer is heating up the summer scene with a new line of dress watches: the Lissom collection. The result is fun, classy, and beautifully true to the brand’s bold design language. I had the purple dialed “Lindley” in for review, but there are five total watches in the Lissom collection, offering a great mix of bright color combinations and more traditional neutrals. Every watch in the Lissom line has unique characteristics, but they have one thing in common – each reference shares a name with influential figures in the fields of botany and the natural sciences. I learned that my review sample was named in honor of John Lindley (1799 – 1865), an English horticulturist whose research, botanical illustrations, and championing of a natural system of plant classification were influential in his field. The emphasis a first impression should have on watch purchase history should be studied. In my own collection, I have an array of watches with varying degrees of “love at first sight” influence – it doesn’t ultimately sway me one way or the other when deciding to purchase a watch. However, very few watches I’ve handled have elicited the audible gasp that accompanied my unboxing of the Lissom Lindley. In the name of science, much like its namesake, I’ve attempted to deconstruct why I was so immediately taken with this watch. At 38mm in diameter with a thickness of 7.95mm, the Lindley is svelte, sharp, and downright dreamy on the wr...
Monochrome
Contemporary independent watchmaking thrives on unconventional ideas, but only a few creators dare to shape them with such sculptural poetry and technical finesse as David Candaux. His latest creation, the DC7 Blue Hawk, embodies his philosophy of a masterful fusion of mechanical virtuosity, architectural depth, and visual intrigue. Building on the vision first introduced with […]
Deployant
David Candaux releases another version of his so called "minimalist" watch - the DC7 with this new colourway which he calls the Blue Hawk.
Monochrome
Jack Heuer’s Carrera chronograph and its affiliation with the racing track is borderline legendary, but there is an earlier, lesser-known chapter of the late 1940s involving the development of a purpose-built watch for Abercrombie & Fitch, the upscale American sporting goods company. Still a student, Jack Heuer enlisted his physics teacher to collaborate in the […]
Monochrome
France’s golden age of horology during the 17th and 18th centuries produced notable figures like Julien Le Roy, Ferdinand Berthoud and Abraham-Louis Breguet. And it’s fair to say that had it not been for the expulsion of French Protestants following the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685 by King Louis XIV, Swiss watchmaking […]
Fratello
Timekeeping is a key element in most sports disciplines, so it should come as no surprise that the world of horology has long-standing ties to sports. In today’s episode of Fratello Talks, we look at that link and discuss the presence and influence of watch brands in sports. Nacho is joined by RJ and Lex, […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watch Brands In Sports to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
As longtime, mutually beneficial relationships in the world of high luxury go, the one between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. is perhaps the most quintessential. The esteemed Swiss watchmaker behind classic timepieces like the Calatrava and Nautilus and the elite retailer/jeweler renowned for its distinctive blue gift boxes have been partners for more than 170 years, and Patek Philippe watches with a Tiffany signature are among the rarest and most coveted items on a serious watch collector’s wishlist. In this feature, I explore the long and prestigious history behind Patek Philippe’s Tiffany watches and spotlight how the two world-famous brands continue to collaborate today. Patek Philippe: The Origin Story The company that would be known as Patek Philippe had its foundation laid in 1839, when a Polish watchmaker named Antoni Norbert de Patek and his business partner, Czech-born François Czapek, partnered to form Patek, Czapek, & Cie, in Geneva. The company produced pocket watches for a relatively brief period before disagreements between the two founders precipitated the dissolving of the partnership, and the firm, by 1845. That same year, Patek began a new partnership with a French watchmaker named Adrien Philippe, whose historical claim to fame was the invention of the keyless winding system for watches. Together, they established a new company, Patek & Cie., to continue making watches, which officially became Patek, Philippe, & Cie. in 1851. That year was pivo...
In the world of watches, simplicity is frequently overlooked. But the new Brew Metric Lite is proof that petite doesn’t have to mean pared-down. With clean lines, charming proportions, and an unapologetically unisex design, it hits that rare balance of effortless style and everyday wearability. It’s not a trophy watch, it’s a companion-to coffee dates, late nights, and everything in between. The Metric Lite reimagines Brew’s signature style as something more universal-stripped back, but still unmistakably “Brew.” It’s an automatic three-hander with no gimmicks, just good design. The case is compact but confident, sliding under cuffs or over bare wrists with equal ease. And with a softened rectangular silhouette and muted dial tones, it’s simple yet stylish, fun yet formal, small yet substantial, refined yet relaxed. The post Lookbook: Brew Metric Lite is Finessed Form, Function, and Fun… All In One appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
A 250th anniversary is already a remarkable achievement for a watch brand, but a 250th anniversary celebrating the undisputed horological star of the 18th century, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is quite another. Pulling out all the stops to commemorate this illustrious milestone, Breguet has released a series of anniversary editions, including the magnificent Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 […]
Worn & Wound
When the Zenith Defy Revival diver was released last year, I somehow missed it. I didn’t see it when it passed through the office, nor at any press events, and honestly, I just didn’t take notice of articles. I guess I was busy. While unfortunate in one sense, perhaps it was for the best, as my first in-person experience with it was with its follow-up model, the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow, and I was immediately taken. Small, dark, weird, vintage-y, and yet also with a 90s vibe, it sank its titanium teeth into me fast. I’m not surprised, to be honest, as the “shadow” watches by Zenith have been their coolest models in the last several years, at least to yours truly. An aesthetic outlier within their collection, these occasional brooding models utilize not just the best-metal-for-a-sports-watchTM, titanium, but also a unique micro-blasting, which gives them a charcoal tone that is more nuanced than black coatings. Light and dark in one package, I’m surprised I don’t already have a Shadow in my watch box. The Shadow Treatment But, even among the Shadow models, the Defy Revival stands out. It’s a remarkably compact, tough tool watch with unique vintage styling that comes to life with shocks of neon yellow. The only shadow model to use a color, Zenith wasn’t shy, and it paid off. A love it or leave it hue, it was a risk. This is the kind of unexpected design choice that will make me take notice of a brand. To use an expression I truly hate, “I see you,” Ze...
Hodinkee
Nearly the same size with an improved profile and a few other features, the Nivada Grenchen Mark II joins a stacked integrated-bracelet but makes its (second) mark.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Doxa name is certainly among the superstars of the classic dive-watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional, as well as the black-dialed Sharkhunter version, as worn by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. But Doxa’s diving history predates the 1967 introduction of the 300, and today we’re looking at a watch that harks back to those earlier models, specifically those with twisted-lug cases that preceded the tonneau-shaped Sub 300 we associate most with the brand. This is the Doxa Sub 200, specifically the Sharkhunter variant, and it’s a fantastic-looking callback to the early ‘60s. Best of all, it represents the entry point into the modern Doxa lineup at just a shade above $1,000 retail, and if you’re not a fan of black dials, the brand known for its colorful divers has seven other colorways to choose from. But today, we’re going to take a closer look at the 200 that most closely resembles its vintage inspiration, the black-dialed Sharkhunter model. In its most basic black form, the dial is a slice of midcentury perfection. This is the watch Mad Men's Don Draper would wear on a weekend getaway to Palm Springs. Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Case: You'd be forgiven if you thought the case of the Sub 200 was influenced by a vintage Omega Seamaster 300, but it turns out that the look of the case is a direct callback to Doxa's history. The lyre-lugged design is a direct descendant of the vintage...
Fratello
Last December, I had a chance to go hands-on with the Diver One Snow from Wren Watches. This brand is the brainchild of Wrist Enthusiast founder Craig Karger, and the first efforts went over very well with watch fans. Labeled as a passion project, the Diver One and its success might lead to something much […] Visit Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam to read the full article.
Monochrome
We’ve said it on many occasions, the combination of a dive watch with a GMT function is possibly the best summer watch you can get. Capable of tracking multiple time zones while also able to withstand aquatic activities, these watches are the all-rounders you should consider. In this field, where not so many watches are […]
SJX Watches
Sportier and a little more affordable than its more elegant cousin, Parmigiani’s Tonda PF Sport was originally available only in steel. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet swaps out that conventional alloy for a case of cermet, a composite of ceramic and metal. Notably, the entire case – bezel, case middle, pushers, and crown – is in cermet. Initial thoughts Parmigiani has iterated its popular sports into many variations, perhaps too many, but the Tonda PF Sport in cermet is one of the most interesting so far. While the material is not new to watches, it is usually employed for one or two components, typically the bezel. The new Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is almost all cermet, which is gives it an appealing a single-tone appearance that goes well with the clean styling. The new chronograph is available in Milano Blue (left), and London Grey Material aside, it is essentially identical to earlier versions of the Tonda Sport PF Chronograph. Though it is little changed in fundamental terms, that’s not necessarily a bad thing as the PF070 movement inside ranks amongst one of the most sophisticated chronograph calibres, especially in sports watches. The only downside of the new material is the price hike. The cermet model is basically a 50% premium over the steel version, which the brand will not doubt justify in terms of machining and polishing complexity, but it is still difficult to rationalise. The PF070 Ceramic and metal Cermet is a composite of ceramic and...
SJX Watches
Building on the Russian watchmaker’s signature Joker timepiece, the Behrens x Konstantin Chaykin Ace of Hearts blends the European court jester with its Chinese counterpart – contained with Behren’s ultra-light, trapezoid wristwatch that was first launched in 2023 as the Ultra-Light 11G. Initial Thoughts One of a new breed of inventive Chinese watchmakers, Behrens has always excelled at novelty watches, thanks to a combination of creativity and competitive pricing. This sets it apart from both its domestic and international competition. European manufacturers in the same price range simply can’t develop base movements or even custom modules for small production runs, at least economically, while only a few other Chinese brands have built enough credibility outside the country to sell five- to six-figure watches internationally. The Ace of Hearts exemplifies what Behrens does well – while also being a collaboration with an established European independent watchmaker. The brand’s earlier collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin was well received, but didn’t stand out from other Wristmon models in terms of styling, so it’s good to see a new direction with the Ace of Hearts. In fact, the Ace of Hearts stands out even in comparison to the ever-growing Wristmon family. I find the sapphire case models most interesting, as the transparent case suits the airy construction of the movement and importantly, they are priced reasonably compared to Swiss brands. Movement The...
Fratello
Last month, I had the opportunity to attend Soccer Aid, a charitable football match held at Old Trafford in Manchester. Norqain was the official timing partner of the event and invited a group of people to see the game and hear about the brand’s official UK launch. During the evening, we sat down with CEO […] Visit Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Ask and ye shall receive, dear readers! Well, within reason. Quill & Pad reader and frequent commenter Greg has been after GaryG for a while to write a piece on his Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph, most recently in response to Gary's article on three “keepers” from his collection that don’t get a lot of wrist time. Gary didn’t include the Deep Stream on that list as it is a quite frequent wearer for him, but now its time in the spotlight has come.
Fratello
Some days, you just feel like not adhering to the rules, right? I have to say, I’m quite a goody-goody, and I don’t break the rules that often. When I do, though, it feels kind of good and gives me a kick. The best example is when I run a red light on my bicycle […] Visit Live Life On Your Terms With Swatch’s New No Rules Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
As watch fans, we’re relatively accustomed to hearing about technical innovations. Normally, these result in benefits in timekeeping accuracy, power reserve, or shock resistance. However, many of these watches use traditional mechanical movements. Armin Strom’s claim to fame is its mastery of the Resonance movement. Today, we’ll provide an overview of the technology behind these […] Visit While My Watch Gently Resonates: How Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the Windy City for what promises to be our biggest and boldest Chicago event yet-and this time, we’re celebrating a major milestone: 10 years of Windup. From July 11–13, Windup returns to Venue West for three full days of hands-on watch experiences, exclusive launches, engaging panels, and some unexpected surprises. This year’s show features over 40 exhibiting brands, including exciting first-time participants like Tudor, DOXA, Celeste, and Watch Craft. There will also be raffles, giveaways, a Scotch tasting bar, and much more. The event is completely free and open to the public, so whether you’re a seasoned collector, a curious newcomer, or somewhere in between, there’s a place for you at Windup. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 11 – Sunday, July 13, 2024 Venue West 221 N Paulina St Chicago, IL 60612 Free and open to the public. Thanks to Our Lead Sponsors We’re thrilled to welcome back our Lead Sponsors, each bringing something exciting to the table-some quite literally. Atelier Wen returns with the Perception, a stunning example of East-meets-West horology. The watch’s intricate guilloché dial, crafted by hand in China, is a modern feat of mechanical art. Casio is showing off their G-SHOCK MTGB4000, a robust, high-tech statement piece loaded with both analog soul and digital brains. Even more exciting? We have it on good authority that Casio will be launching something completely new on day one of the ...
Worn & Wound
On a warm and sunny Saturday in June, I visited the inauguration ceremony for DUG workshop. DUG (Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte) is the eleventh company to establish itself in the watchmaking town of Glashütte. The last brand to open a workshop in this town were young independent duo, Kallinich Claeys. The DUG workshop is just around the corner from Lange HQ, across from Glashütte Watch Museum, and on the steep road leading up to one of Nomos’s workshops. The building previously belonged to C.H. Wolf, and there is still some old signage around the building. It is a modern and fairly large building for a micro-brand to occupy. It has tall ceilings and a row of new watchmaker benches along with a few administrative and conference rooms. It could easily host a medium size watch company. The DUG workshop Toni Brodführer, founder and Managing Director of DUG, is planning to move in there before the end of the year with three watchmakers. He is also open to sharing the space with other small watch companies. At the opening ceremony, I was pleased to run into Thibault Claeys and Johannes Kallinich, who were impressed by the building and seemed to like what Toni is doing. Before I get back to my observations about the brand and the newest watches, I interviewed Toni to get some background and context of owning and operating a new micro-brand in Glashütte. Toni’s journey of DUG began with a personal passion for watches. He had been fascinated with watches since his...
Hodinkee
In steel with a blue dial, this marks the final production of one of Greubel Forsey's most successful models-though the brand promises exciting developments ahead.
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