Hodinkee
Business News: The Swiss Watch Industry Just Had Its Best Year Ever, With The USA Leading The Way
Smiling a discreet Swiss smile of satisfaction, all the way to the bank.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary Silver Panda
Reviving or reinterpreting classic icons is usually a safe bet for watch manufacturers, speaking to both longstanding fans as well as newcomers seeking vintage vibes in the modern era. For the 60th Anniversary of the beloved Autavia line, TAG Heuer has reached into their rich archives to introduce a new take on one of their … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary Silver Panda appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the All-New 37 mm Royal Oak Ref. 15550
With 2022 being the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet has already launched a slew of new models barely a month into the year. While the headline watches are no doubt the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and its skeletonised sibling, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm ref. 15550 is a more accessible watch, both in terms of price and availability. It too gets an upgrade for the 50th anniversary in the form of a new movement, the cal. 5900, along with a revamped case, dial, and bracelet. Initial thoughts As familiar as it might seem, the ref. 15550 received as complete a makeover as possible while still retaining the trademark design. Individually the changes are minor but together they create a watch that looks and feels better than the previous version of the mid-size Royal Oak. The tweaks can be spotted even at arm’s length, including the streamlined dial that has been cleaned up to reduce the text, giving it a look similar to that found on the latest-generation Royal Oak 41 mm ref. 15500. The newly minimalist dial works especially well with the mid-size case, with the empty space looking just right. In contrast, the dial style seems almost bland on its larger counterpart. Two lines of text have been eliminated: “AP” at 12 o’clock and “AUTOMATIC” at six The case and bracelet also get their own nips and tucks, though the alterations are far more subtle. Amongst the changes are slightly wider bevels along the edge of the case, making it seem to tap...
Quill & Pad
Chess Moves: What The January 2022 Sale Of Ulysse Nardin And Girard-Perregaux Have To Do With Brioni
On January 24, 2022, two Swiss watch brands, Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux, were reorganized in response to men’s fashion developments in Rome, Italy. In a vacuum, it is hard to see how one would lead to the other: their connection is the Kering group. And then there's LVMH, but how does that group fit in here? Professor of economics Brendan Cunningham offers some thoughts on how all of this might just go together.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger”
With 2022 being the Year of the Tiger in the Chinese Zodiac, tiger-themed watches started to proliferate since late last year. One of the most striking tiger-themed watches is also one of the most discreet, revealing its roaring tiger only on the reverse. The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” is a sharp but simple on the front, while its reverse depicts a tiger leaping out of the clouds. Unusually, the decoration combines both enamel and engraving, making it more elaborate than the typical enamelled Reverso. Initial thoughts The quintessential enamelled Reverso is a miniature painting in polychrome enamel – a specialty of Jaeger-LeCoultre since the 1990s. The Reverso “Tiger” in contrast, is a stately black and gold. Even though the “Tiger” dials back on the colours, it is a striking and beautiful watch. The simplicity at a distance gives away to detail when you examine the roaring tiger on the back, which is executed in low relief. It leaps out of a black background that is actually fired enamel. At the same time, this combination of figurative engraving in addition to enamel is a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre, at least in recent years, making the “Tiger” a rather special watch. Naturally the elaborate decoration comes at a price – €90,000 before taxes to be exact. That’s about US$100,000 and about the same as past Reverso models with miniature enamel paintings. Delicate work The engraved tiger takes form after the back has been enamelled. So the process ...
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 - Seiko SBDY077 Tuna x Neighborhood (#2)
Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. As we near the summit, it’s the Seiko SBDY077 Tuna x Neighborhood at number 2… Sexy red details combined with vintage … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – Seiko SBDY077 Tuna x Neighborhood (#2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Hublot launches three new scratch-resistant iterations of the Big Bang Sang Bleu II in ceramic and Magic Gold
Hublot have never had any issues with realising bold, eyeball-grabbing designs and exploring a range of colours and materials that other brands have yet to even attempt to tackle. But sometimes two minds are greater than one. Once again, Hublot has partnered with Swiss tattoo artist Maxine Plescia-Buchi to continue their saga of Sang Bleu … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Hublot launches three new scratch-resistant iterations of the Big Bang Sang Bleu II in ceramic and Magic Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022
Unless you’ve been marooned on a desert island for the past several years, you’re probably all too aware of the rainbow colourway boom in the horological world. And let’s face it, some of these timepieces are, shall we say, aesthetically more harmonious than others. For every rainbow Daytona out there, there are twice as many … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
All of the 42 new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th anniversary releases of 2022
Editor’s Note: Audemars Piguet did not hold back this week, starting off 2022 with a revamped Royal Oak Collection in honour of the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak. So we’re offering a quick overview of all the new novelties we are allowed to share from the AP Social Club event – touching on each new reference … ContinuedThe post All of the 42 new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th anniversary releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Rafael Nadal Wears A Richard Mille RM 27-04 As He Plays In The Australian Open 2022
If you’ve been watching the 2022 Australian Open (as Elizabeth Doerr has), you may be wondering about the prominent watch seen on Rafael Nadal’s right wrist (he’s left-handed), which has been a constant companion no matter what he’s doing – even while playing his grueling matches on court. It's a Richard Mille RM 27-04 with an innovative mesh tennis-string-style "plate" as Elizabeth explains here.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A Sleeper Hit In The Making: The Newly Minimalist 37mm AP Royal Oak
It's an anniversary renovation, from the dial to the movement.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Small Tweaks And Big Impact In A Design Evolution For the Royal Oak Chronograph
The 38mm and 41mm offerings get subtle tweaks for the Royal Oak's 50th birthday.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked, With The New Caliber 7124
The first openworked Jumbos in eight years, and my, they're eye-openers.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Reference 16202 Jumbo
The peak Royal Oak hits the half-century mark with a whole new reference. It's a mild but meaningful upgrade to a bona fide icon.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204
Alongside the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202, Audemars Piguet has just unveiled the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204 for the 50th anniversary of its iconic octagonal watch. The skeleton “Jumbo” is naturally offered with a brand-new movement, the cal. 7124. Extra revealing and extra thin – even thinner than the cal. 7121 found in the standard “Jumbo” – the cal. 7124 boasts a striking, cohesive aesthetic thanks to having been designed from the ground up as an open-worked calibre. The steel variant with a low-key, almost monochromatic palette Initial thoughts Striking, original, and impressive, the “Jumbo” Openworked is clearly a cut above standard “Jumbo” ref. 16202. It is arguably a more comprehensive upgrade over the equivalent, earlier-generation model than the ref. 16202, given the nature of the new calibre. Everything attractive about a skeleton Royal Oak can be found in the “Jumbo” Openworked, namely the meticulous hand finish of an ultra-thin movement inside the elegantly flat and wide case. The visual details of the earlier-generation skeleton movement that were unappealing – namely the meandering bridges that seemed almost messy – have been eliminated. Instead, the cal. 7124 brings with it an architecture that’s contemporary and geometric with strong, flowing lines, while remaining intricate enough to capture the feel of an old-school skeletonised movement. Starting at US$90,400 in steel and rising ...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 with new in-house calibre 7121
Anniversaries are monumental moments in all aspects of life and they’re certainly no different in watchmaking. It has been no secret that this year marks the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, originally conceived by Gérald Genta and manufactured by Audemars Piguet in 1972, and that a successor of some form was on the horizon. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 with new in-house calibre 7121 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 16202
Audemars Piguet’s opening act of the year is straightforward but significant: the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Created to mark the 50th anniversary of its quintessential octagonal watch, the new “Jumbo” is arguably the first truly new version of the original Royal Oak, as it contains a latest-generation movement. the cal. 7121 replaces the cal. 2120/2121 that’s been in service since 1972. Naturally the ref. 16202 makes it debut in the quintessential combination of a blue-grey dial and steel case. And the line up also includes three precious metal versions that are arguably more striking (and certainly more expensive). The cal. 7121 Initial thoughts With the retirement of the ref. 15202 announced last year, an all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” became inevitable. And the fact that this year is the 50th anniversary of the model makes it even more so. It happened and fortunately, the new “Jumbo” lives up to expectations. It’s still very much the same – the case dimensions remains unchanged – but revamped just enough to it a substantively new watch in technical terms. And then there are the gorgeous smoked dial finishes, which set it apart from past models and make it the “Jumbo” of the 21st century. Especially delicious in yellow gold The highlight of the ref. 16202 is the cal. 7121. Still ultra thin like its predecessor, the cal. 7121 boasts a modern construction that promises superior timekeeping over a longer period as well as better r...
SJX Watches
Raúl Pagès Introduces the Régulateur à détente RP1
Independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès is best known for the Soberly Onyx, which housed a highly-decorated movement that was originally a humble Cyma. His latest creation however, marks a significant step forward – a movement he developed and largely manufactures himself. A time-only watch with some fascinating details, the Régulateur à détente RP1 serves as a strong testament to Mr Pagès’ capabilities: it has a regulator display while the movement has a detent escapement of his own design. And of course, it is finished to the same high standard as his earlier work – or perhaps even better. Initial thoughts The RP1 is intriguing in many ways. It is well-executed both in terms of technical features and finish. The most obvious element that sets it apart is the detent escapement. Due to the technical quirks in implementation, the detent escapement is an uncommon regulation mechanism that contrasts with the Swiss lever escapement that is ubiquitous even at the highest end of watchmaking. It is clear that Mr Pagès designed the movement around the escapement, as the movement bridges expose enough to proudly showcase the mechanism. But the RP1 isn’t only about the movement, as its qualities appear all-encompassing, as demonstrated by the equally well-finished dial. Despite the simple appearance at a glance, the regulator dial is replete with fine finishing details. While the colour scheme may be too quirky for some, I wouldn’t be surprised if Mr Pages accedes to re...
Time+Tide
Moonfall is the latest big-screen cameo for the Omega Speedmaster. Here are 5 more of the watch’s memorable roles at the movies
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is apparently not content with being one of the most iconic watches ever to be buckled onto a wrist. Sure, it was the first watch to make it onto the moon on July 20, 1969 after being the only chronograph that NASA deemed tough and accurate enough to meet their exacting … ContinuedThe post Moonfall is the latest big-screen cameo for the Omega Speedmaster. Here are 5 more of the watch’s memorable roles at the movies appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko Revives the King Seiko
Introduced just over a year ago, the King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation SJE083 was the surprise comeback of the King Seiko label that had been dormant for decades. Though it was a limited edition, the SJE083 hinted at the possibility of King Seiko returning as a regular production offering. Perhaps quicker than expected, that has happened with the introduction of the King Seiko. A single model that’s in four variants, the new King Seiko is effectively vintage in both size and style, being modelled on the original KSK of 1965. The original King Seiko KSK of 1965 Initial thoughts Sitting in between Grand Seiko and the Seiko Presage in both price and positioning, King Seiko is the brand’s affordable entry into vintage-inspired design – while incorporating Grand Seiko vibes – with its sharply faceted case and, for the first time, a bracelet. The bracelet gives the new King Seiko something of an integrated-bracelet feel, which puts it in competition with more modern offerings, including the Citizen Series 8. But the new King Seiko stands out for its old-school design that’s faithful to the original. The strict adherence to historical design is the norm for Seiko remakes, although most of the brand’s remakes have been limited editions. Because King Seiko a regular production offering, it is far more accessible, both in terms of price and availability. It does away with the date, unlike the earlier SJE083 The only possible drawback is repositioning of King Seiko,...
Revolution
Introducing the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date
Bronze is not new to Oris, but for the first time, it’s releasing a Big Crown Pointer Date in full bronze, in a smattering of dial colors.
Time+Tide
OPINION: Five reasons why a dive watch is the ultimate must-have in any collection
It’s that time of year in Australia where you can hear cricket blasting from people’s living rooms as you wander down to your local beach or pool. The heat (in Sydney) can get so great at this time of year that when it rains you can see steam coming off the asphalt streets. The rain streaks … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Five reasons why a dive watch is the ultimate must-have in any collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Embraces The Rainbow In New Defy 21 Chroma (Live Pics, Pricing)
The most colorful Defy 21 yet.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: TAG Heuer celebrates the Autavia’s 60th Anniversary with a dynamic trio
The Autavia is one of TAG Heuer’s most storied collection. Yes, it gets lost sometimes with all the noise made by the Monaco and Carrera. But with this latest release in celebration of the Autavia 60th anniversary, it’s going to be hard to lose sight of this line any longer. TAG Heuer has blessed us … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer celebrates the Autavia’s 60th Anniversary with a dynamic trio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only
While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...
Deployant
TAG Heuer Aquaracer reborn as the new Professional 200
TAG Heuer returns the Aquaracer with the new Professional 200. We get up close to the novelty and bring you this hands-on review.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only brings 40mm to titanium, ceramic and 18K yellow gold
With Hublot, the most intimidating barrier for me was often the larger sizing their references were typically produced in. Hublot, unapologetically, favours larger diameters as the canvas for their bold personality and mastery of materials. Personally, I felt excluded from the party at times, liking the brand’s novelties but not being prepared to tackle their … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only brings 40mm to titanium, ceramic and 18K yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Oris Sun Wukong Artist Edition
Oris Aquis forms the basis of a second watch to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the animated classic The Monkey King: Uproar in Heaven.
Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: A Benrus That Really Works (To Replace The One That Never Did)
It's often said that watches are about more than telling the time. Here's a story that proves it.
Hodinkee
Introducing: TAG Heuer Returns To Form! Say Hello To The New 40mm Aquaracer 'Outdoors' (Live Pics, Pricing)
The new Professional 200 collection is a modern interpretation of an entry-level classic.