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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
RECOMMENDED VIEWING: NBC reports on the threat of a watchmaker shortage Time+Tide
Mar 19, 2023

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: NBC reports on the threat of a watchmaker shortage

If you are reading this, then in all likelihood you are passionate about watchmaking – or, at the very least, on the path to being a watch enthusiast. But, in order for us to report on watches, and for all of us to be able to purchase and have our watches serviced when needed, this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: NBC reports on the threat of a watchmaker shortage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector Mar 18, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector

The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector brings attention to negative space in a refreshing way. The new anthracite dial is inspired by the clear and dark skies of Antarctica. The use of titanium means the whole watch weighs only 95g. Reviving an extinct watch brand can often lead to the creative trap of rehashing vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: The LEGO Icons Classic Land Rover Defender 90, NASA’s New Spacesuit, & The WESN Bornas Knife Worn & Wound
Mar 18, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The LEGO Icons Classic Land Rover Defender 90, NASA’s New Spacesuit, & The WESN Bornas Knife

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: LEGO LEGO Icons Classic Land Rover Defender 90 To celebrate Land Rover’s 75th Anniversary, LEGO has announced a 2,336 piece Land Rover Defender 90 set as a part of their Icons Classic collection. There’s lots to love about this one. The LEGO Land Rover Defender 90 comes in its familiar straight-line, boxy body adorned with the classic green and white top. The model will also come along with a roof rack, engine snorkel, offroad front bumper, and all the miscellaneous gear your LR Defender would ever need for its next overland adventure. Needless to say, this will look perfect on the shelf right next to the LEGO Land Rover Defender Technic set. Another cool touch to all of this is a video that features explorers, Roha Moharrak and Aldo Kane as they attempt to race to “The Hardest to Reach LEGO Store in the World” in their very own Land Rover Defenders – Moharrak, the first Saudi woman to ever summit Mt. Everest in the classic yellow Camel Trophy Defender and Kane, an extreme & remote locations expert trekking around in a no-fuss Defender 110. And once at t...

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What’s happening to the value of your watch? New report delves into the secondary watch market Time+Tide
Mar 18, 2023

What’s happening to the value of your watch? New report delves into the secondary watch market

Whether it’s to justify your latest splurge or make a fast buck, the issue of resale value looms large in the mind of the contemporary watch buyer.  Selling a watch in order to fund another purchase is nothing new. But as the secondary market for luxury watches has heated up in recent years, more and … ContinuedThe post What’s happening to the value of your watch? New report delves into the secondary watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The watches James Brittain-McVey of The Vamps took on the band’s European tour Time+Tide
Mar 18, 2023

The watches James Brittain-McVey of The Vamps took on the band’s European tour

James Brittain-McVey of The Vamps fame is a true rock-star in every sense of the word, bar one. Instead of sex, drugs and rock and roll, he’s seriously addicted to watches.  For those not in the know, James is the lead guitarist for the UK band who are currently in Europe finishing their World Tour. … ContinuedThe post The watches James Brittain-McVey of The Vamps took on the band’s European tour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned Mar 18, 2023

The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

A historically important Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 with full calendar and moon phase will soon be offered at Phillips, but the news isn’t so much about the watch itself but the story behind it. While extraordinarily rare in itself, the ref. 96 quantieme lune is exceptional for its provenance: its original owner was Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China and heir to a 4,000-year old imperial throne. As the final ruler of the Qing Dynasty, Puyi was arguably a hapless individual overcome by circumstances and overtaken by history – a life dramatised in the Bernardo Bertolucci’s film The Last Emperor – leaving him with a mixed reputation and legacy. The ref. 96, however, makes clear his appreciation of mechanical timepieces. Yet this long-lost imperial watch is extremely flawed on its face. But the heavily-aged dial, seemingly severely damaged, also echoes the tale of Puyi’s brief reign, a turbulent time when an empire met its end and a feudal dynasty was transformed into a modern nation. Image – PaddleWaves An Emperor’s timekeeper Ascending the throne at age two in 1908, Puyi was destined for a life of absolute power. But shortly after, the child Emperor witnessed the collapse of Imperial China and his family’s four century-old dynasty in the wake of the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 that gave birth to the Republic of China. In 1932, perhaps unwitting or naive, he became the titular ruler of Manchukuo, the puppet state of Manchuria that was controlle...

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Nivada Grenchen Breaks the Mold by Teaming Up with Fratello on the Brand-New Racing Chronograph Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Breaks Mar 17, 2023

Nivada Grenchen Breaks the Mold by Teaming Up with Fratello on the Brand-New Racing Chronograph

Nivada Grenchen’s formula for success is quite simple. Since the brand came back bursting onto the scene by re-releasing collection mainstays in the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver and the Antarctic in 2020, Guillaume Laidet and Remi Chabrat has continued to tap into the brand’s expansive vintage catalog full of no-fuss field watches, funky divers and bold chronographs. Bit by bit, Nivada Grenchen has given us a full-on history lesson with a steady cadence of re-releases built for the modern day wearer and enthusiast. The brand has also made more of a concentrated effort by providing more affordable options with the same charming vintage aesthetic. I think I can speak for everyone when I say, we welcome all of this with open arms (especially the affordable part). But Nivada Grenchen isn’t just a one trick pony. We’ve seen the brand take more of an open-minded approach via their collaborations. Heck, we got a flurry of them to close out 2022, with each special edition piece embracing what their collaborative partner brings to table, while simultaneously encapsulating the brand’s 70’s vintage design language. I’ve said this plenty of times, and I’ll say it again, collaborations allow brands to let their hair down. To step outside of the box. To try something entirely new. And the result is something quite refreshing for us enthusiasts. That’s exactly what we’ve been getting from Nivada Grenchen and their forays into the collaborative space. Now Nivada Gren...

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Countdown to Spring with some great deals from the Shop Worn & Wound
Mar 17, 2023

Countdown to Spring with some great deals from the Shop

It’s that time of year again. Watches and Wonders is around the corner. And with that, your purchasing prowess finds itself in hibernation while you eagerly await what your favorite watch brand is going to release. But what does that mean for your current collection? Should those watches hide in fear of possibly taking that long trip to sales land. We at the Windup Watch Shop say no! It’s that time of year again. Watches and Wonders is around the corner. And with that, your purchasing prowess finds itself in hibernation while you eagerly await what your favorite watch brand is going to release. But what does that mean for your current collection? Should those watches hide in fear of possibly taking that long trip to sales land. We at the Windup Watch Shop say no! The post Countdown to Spring with some great deals from the Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Ressence Adds a Sage Green Dial Option for the Entry Level Type 8 Worn & Wound
H. Moser coated entirely Mar 17, 2023

Ressence Adds a Sage Green Dial Option for the Entry Level Type 8

When I think back to last year’s Watches & Wonders, there are only a handful of watches and experiences that really stand out in my memory now that time has done its thing. The one-off Streamliner that H. Moser coated entirely in Vantablack comes to mind, as does that giant purple Hublot that has become a point of personal obsession.. As I reflect back though on my first Watches & Wonders, there’s another meeting that stands out, somewhat surprisingly, from all the others, and that’s our experience with Ressence. I’ve always admired Ressence and had limited hands-on experience with them in boutiques and at meetups prior to seeing them in Geneva, but it was another thing entirely to have a whole bunch of them laid out on a table with brand founder Benoit Mintiens personally taking us through the collection. These watches are truly special, quite rare, and try them all on in rapid fire succession was just a lot of fun. The big new release at the time, the Type 8 C, made a particularly strong impression as the new entry level Ressence. It was lightweight, beautiful, and approachable in a way that no other Ressence had felt like to me.  Now, just in time for Watches & Wonders ‘23, Ressence has introduced another Type 8, this one in a gorgeous shade of green. The new Type 8 S (for “sage green”) has exactly the same specs as last year’s version in blue. That means it still has a lugless 43mm case made from grade 5 titanium, that’s just 11mm tall. It has a flyi...

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The new Bamford B80 collection offers colourful value-driven titanium daily wearers Time+Tide
Mar 16, 2023

The new Bamford B80 collection offers colourful value-driven titanium daily wearers

Bamford London presents new Bamford B80 lineup Three expressions, seven configurations, all cased in titanium The Adventure, Heritage and Modern models have their own distinct dial expressions Most watch collectors are familiar with the name George Bamford and the Bamford Watch Department due to their pioneering efforts in watch customisation. But, these days, while Bamford … ContinuedThe post The new Bamford B80 collection offers colourful value-driven titanium daily wearers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[VIDEO] The Rolex Explorer Hits the Collector’s Roundtable Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer Hits Mar 16, 2023

[VIDEO] The Rolex Explorer Hits the Collector’s Roundtable

The Explorer has a way of sneaking up on you. It’s not all that flashy, has no real complexity to speak of, features slightly strange looking numerals at 3, 6, and 9, and clocks in at a diminutive 36mm in diameter. Yet, it’s a watch that gets under the skin over time and exposure. At least that was the case for the trio of Explorer owners at Worn & Wound. In this collector’s roundtable, Kat Shoulder, Zach Weiss, and Blake Buettner sit down to discuss three different references of the Explorer that have managed to find a spot in each of their collections.  Three references that represent two different generations of the Explorer, and two generations that manage to tell two very different stories about where Rolex is, and where they’ve been. Yet, somehow, these watches share an obvious core DNA that binds them. In this video, we find the modern references 124270 (steel), 124273 (steel & gold), and the 114270 (steel) from the early ‘00s. Each has their own unique appeal, and each says something specific about us as collectors. Don’t miss our full review of the Explorer 124270 from back when it’s retail price was $6,450. It’s safe to say the watch made a good enough impression to become a permanent part of the collection. Share your thoughts on these references or the Explorer in general in the comments below or on YouTube, and while you’re there, be sure to subscribe for more content like this.  The post [VIDEO] The Rolex Explorer Hits the Collector’s Ro...

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A YEAR ON THE WRIST: How I fell in love with the IWC Ingenieur and became a one-watch guy Time+Tide
Casio n Mar 16, 2023

A YEAR ON THE WRIST: How I fell in love with the IWC Ingenieur and became a one-watch guy

A lot can change in the space of a year. It was exactly this time last year, as I was preparing to attend my first Watches and Wonders, that I decided to mark the occasion with a new watch. I’d worked through a few different references during the 12 months prior and nothing had really … ContinuedThe post A YEAR ON THE WRIST: How I fell in love with the IWC Ingenieur and became a one-watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer brings GMT functionality to the party Time+Tide
Mido Mar 15, 2023

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer brings GMT functionality to the party

One of the most instantly lovable watches of 2020 was the Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961, a dive watch blazing with pastel hues that drew a goofy smile from even the most hard-hearted watch nerd. Here was a revivial of Mido’s mid-century cult classic, the Powerwind “Rainbow” diver, brought up to modern sizing and … ContinuedThe post The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer brings GMT functionality to the party appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition has our hearts racing Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Mar 15, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition has our hearts racing

I am not going to beat around the bush here. With the holy trinity ushering in the era of crazy demand for integrated sports watch designs, and their unobtanium status in terms of purchasing at retail, the search for alternatives has grown and grown over the last decade. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato is constantly a part … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition has our hearts racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Citizen Introduces the Eco-Drive 365 SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 15, 2023

Citizen Introduces the Eco-Drive 365

A pioneer in solar-powered watches, Citizen has hundreds of such models in its catalogue. But the brand’s latest solar-powered offering, the Eco-Drive 365, is different. Distinctly 1970s in style, the oversized and chunky case is modelled on the Quartz E.F.A. of 1973, one of the brand’s first quartz watches. Named after its 365-day power reserve, the Eco-Drive 365 makes its debut in three variants: a pair of regular-production models in muted colours as well as a limited edition remake of the Quartz E.F.A. that celebrates the 1970s with its ruby-and-gilt dial. From left: The Eco-Drive 365 in steel, black-coated steel, and the limited edition with synthetic ruby markers Initial thoughts Most Eco-Drive watches are either chunky sports watches or conservative and plain. The Eco-Drive 365, on the other hand, is bold and retro. In other words, it is a different solar-powered watch. Almost over the top in style, the large case easily evokes the chunky forms typical of the 1970s. On its face the combination of 1970s design and a solar-powered movement might seem peculiar, but the styling makes this far more interesting than the typical Eco-Drive. Citizen would certainly do well to install the Eco-Drive movements in more watches like this. I’ve yet to see the Eco-Drive 365 in the metal, but assuming the build quality is on par with similarly priced Citizen watches, it should have good tactile feel, particularly for the US$500-ish price tag. And while it costs slightly mor...

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Atelier de Chronométrie Partners with The Lavish Attic on Ultra Limited AdC33 Worn & Wound
H. Moser Mar 13, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Partners with The Lavish Attic on Ultra Limited AdC33

Earlier this year, we saw the debut of a new ‘in-house’ caliber from Atelier de Chronométrie called the M284 within a beautiful watch called the AdC22 which we introduced to you right here. Today we’re getting a glimpse at the next chapter for this movement in the form of the AdC33, a limited edition collaboration with The Lavish Attic, a Hong Kong based collective that curates exclusive high craft products and experiences, serving as area distributors for Urwerk and H. Moser. Here, the outfit is collaborating with Atelier de Chronométrie on an exclusive watch that offers buyers a few interesting choices, including white “Grand Feu” enamel dials with ancient Chinese characters, and an alloy called Gray Gold.  Precious metal cases have expanded beyond the likes of just yellow and rose gold, with stuff like tantalum, black platinum, and proprietary mixes like Omega’s Moonshine offering a wide selection of pricey yet tantalizing choices when it comes to cases. Let’s add gray gold to that list, a gold alloy with high palladium content that apparently lands somewhere between white gold and platinum in appearance. In the case of the AdC33 seen here, it takes on the stepped 37mm case in beautiful fashion, and it’s offered alongside more traditional yellow and rose options. Not to be outdone by the case, the dial brings plenty of intrigue as well thanks to its finish as well as the markings at the 3, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. The white grand feu dial is ins...

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Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42 Worn & Wound
Laco Aachen 42 You’ve just Mar 13, 2023

Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42

You’ve just purchased that watch you always wanted. The size is perfect. The color is exactly how it looked online. And for days afterwards, you find yourself in utter bliss. However, like most people on this earth, you end up wanting something different. Something more. And it’s at that point in time you start looking at straps. You’ve just purchased that watch you always wanted. The size is perfect. The color is exactly how it looked online. And for days afterwards, you find yourself in utter bliss. However, like most people on this earth, you end up wanting something different. Something more. And it’s at that point in time you start looking at straps. The post Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Review: The New Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003 Deployant
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003 Mar 13, 2023

Review: The New Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003

In 2020, the world bore witness to something off the beaten path from Grand Seiko: an openworked, concept movement which incorporates a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. This was the T0 Constant-force Tourbillon concept movement. While impressive, the T0 was an uncased, unwearable movement; it was not aRead More

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