Deployant
Review: the new YEMA x Alain Silberstein Limited Edition
Alain Silberstein has done it again! This time, the quirky designer teamed up with the French based YEMA to launch a 500 pieces limited edition watch.
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Deployant
Fratello
Hands-On With The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik In Its New 34mm Size
You can almost hear the discussions at the Nomos headquarters in Glashütte. First, the 42mm Club Sport was introduced. It was the German brand’s first proper stainless steel sports watch. It was a well-received release but also a little big for some people, so the brand decided to introduce a smaller 37mm size for the […] Visit Hands-On With The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik In Its New 34mm Size to read the full article.
Fratello
Strap Review: Testing Out The New Delugs Sailcloth Straps
The new Delugs sailcloth-patterned rubber straps are a refreshing addition to the brand’s repertoire, especially for collectors looking to add a more refined version of the sailcloth strap. First things first: these are not your typical ultra-modern, sports-performance sailcloth-style straps. They’re made with a nod toward traditional aesthetics and construction. A few things stand out […] Visit Strap Review: Testing Out The New Delugs Sailcloth Straps to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Could This Be The Next New Rolex?
Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks. Could this be the next new Rolex? In today’s episode, we put ourselves in the shoes of the brand’s product developers and exchanged some pitches about what kind of watch we’d love to see Rolex release next. We fully acknowledge it’s practically impossible to guess The Crown’s next move. Still, […] Visit Fratello Talks: Could This Be The Next New Rolex? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Astrophotography For Beginners, By A Beginner
As the title implies, I am in no way, shape, or form a seasoned vet when it comes to astrophotography. I am lucky enough to have a close friend who also dabbles in hobby photography and has done a fair bit of nighttime shooting. So, when he sent me a random text message asking if I would be interested in backpacking during the next new moon for star photos, I jumped at the opportunity. This is not some epic story about plunging into the backcountry for some never-before-seen magical shots, but hopefully will provide those of you looking to try astrophotography a bit of a baseline. Just to get it out of the way, I will include my primary gear below and the camera specs I started shooting at. At the end of this article, I will also include a recommended gear list of other items we found useful. One other side note for those interested: I experimented on our second night with a different camera body and different lens, so stay tuned for that comparison. Gear Camera: Sony A7R IV Lense: Sony FE 14mm f/1.8 GM Tripod: Benro SystemGo Plus Aluminum Tripod Tripod Head: 3-Way Geared Head Settings ISO: 3200 Shutter: 13” F-Stop: 1.8 Self Timer Single Shot 2 Sec (to avoid shutter shake) With all of that listed out, go ahead and set up your camera with the widest lens you own, set your aperture to the lowest number possible, and go out and start shooting the night sky. A new moon was the key to the whole trip. The first lunar phase, a new moon occurs when the moon and sun have th...
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Patek Philippe, the Cubitus, and Elitism in Modern Watchmaking
Last month, Patek Philippe launched their first new watch collection in decades: the Cubitus. It was met with, as you’ve surely seen by now, a chorus of widespread skepticism and bewilderment. Ostensibly a replacement for the now discontinued stainless steel Nautilus, the Cubitus borrows the bracelet and dial treatment from that watch, and makes the case square. The consensus seems to be that they turned one of the most elegant luxury sports watches ever made into something ungainly, and they didn’t even take the time to do it in a thoughtful way. Words like “lazy” and “ugly” fill out the diatribes from commenters who disapprove. For me and the rest of the team at Worn & Wound, new releases from Patek Philippe are something of a spectator sport. I can’t speak for all of my colleagues, but feelings about the brand range from lukewarm appreciation for watches that are objectively well made and designed, to a more straight up boredom (that’s me), to some version of the “I don’t think of you at all” Mad Men meme (also me). It’s fair to say, though, that none of us are die hard Patek fans in the same way, for instance, that we follow new releases from brands like, I dunno, Grand Seiko, Christopher Ward, Armin Strom, Garrick, Tudor, and the like. The watches we get excited about span a huge range of accessibility both in terms of price and actual availability. But a good watch is a good watch. This is all to say, it shouldn’t be much of a surprise t...
Monochrome
Live Stream – Watch the GPHG 2024 Ceremony, the Oscars of the Watchmaking Industry
This is it, the 2024 Oscars of the Watchmaking industry, the so-called Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève or GPHG 2024, is about to begin and the best watches introduced during the year are about to be awarded. From ladies’ watches to chronographs and exceptional mechanical proposals, the entire spectrum of watch production is covered. For […]
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumiere
We expect, at this point, Christopher Ward to impress us with showstopper releases from time to time. Whether it’s the Bel Canto, the Twelve X, or something comparatively more sedate like the C1 Moonphase, it’s clear that the brand has entered an era where they are willing and able to flex, expanding the very idea of what Christopher Ward is capable of. But not every watch is a stake in the ground. This is still a brand that, at the end of the day, has a core idea behind it, and that’s to offer straightforward value to their customers, whether they’re enthusiasts or not. And that’s what makes the C60 Trident Lumiere one of this year’s big surprises. This is Christopher Ward operating squarely within their wheelhouse, but with little hints of the improved tech and manufacturing prowess that is highlighted in their marquee releases. The dramatic application of luminescent material is the highlight, but the case, dial, and bracelet represent years worth of incremental advancements the brand has made, and seeing them applied to a diver in their core collection could shift how you think about the brand. In this video, Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan discuss their impressions of the C60 Trident Lumiere, how it fits in with the rest of the Christopher Ward collection, and why this watch has struck a chord with enthusiasts. Christopher Ward The post [VIDEO] Hands-On with the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumiere appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex x The James Brand Titanium Automatic GMT ‘Emerald Edition’
Recently, Timex joined forces with The James Brand to release what many consider a game-changer in the world of affordable GMTs: a titanium-cased automatic GMT that married the utility-focused aesthetic of The James Brand with Timex's watchmaking expertise.
Fratello
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Limited Edition In Full Rose Gold Attire
The new stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph was among our favorite releases during Watches and Wonders 2023. The contrast between the clean blue/gray sunburst dial and the open-worked chronograph dial especially earned our admiration. Of course, the version with a rose gold case and indexes on its black sunburst dial was also very impressive. […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Limited Edition In Full Rose Gold Attire to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Moritz Grossmann Celebrates its 16th Anniversary with the Enamel Roman Vintage
Moritz Grossmann (1826-1855) was one of the founding fathers of Glashütte’s proud watchmaking tradition. However, his death in 1855 marked the extinction of the brand that was acquired by watchmaker Christine Hutter in 2008. Having forged its own identity with 16 in-house calibres and a commitment to Schönstes deutsches Handwerk (the most beautiful German craftsmanship), […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph, now in full Pink Gold
The classic Reverso Chronograph, a watch initially presented in 1996, is a piece of great historical importance. It was the first manually wound integrated chronograph to be developed in the post-quartz era, marking the return to classic watchmaking. Last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, a Duoface model looking back at this 1990s classic, […]
Fratello
Hot Take: Is Everything Right With The Panerai Luminor Destro Otto Giorni PAM01655?
Panerai recently released the Luminor Destro Otto Giorni PAM01655. What’s in a name? Well, the fact that it is a Luminor with an eight-day power reserve that is supposed to be worn on your right (destro, in Italian) arm. That pretty much sums up what this new Luminor is all about. So, is everything right […] Visit Hot Take: Is Everything Right With The Panerai Luminor Destro Otto Giorni PAM01655? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
What’s next for Seiko’s Australian limited-edition adventures?
Australia has been treated to quite a few limited-edition Seikos recently. What's next?The post What’s next for Seiko’s Australian limited-edition adventures? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Latest From Elka is a Limited Edition with a Whiskey Inspired Dial
Just hearing the brand Elka brings back nostalgic memories of my trip to Neuchatel back in 2019, a picture perfect Swiss town bordering a very large lake. It’s often known as the “land of watchmakers” and hosts the headquarters for some of the most renowned Swiss watch brands, including Elka Watches. Elka has launched a watch and whiskey collaboration with the limited release of 25 S series watches, each to be paired with their own unique bottle of golden hued Single Malt Whiskey. Many watch collectors, including myself, take pleasure in the opportunity to enjoy an evening dram of fine Scotch or Bourbon while gazing into the dials of our most prized watches. Oftentimes you can find us comparing notes from the liquor that complement the vibe of the watch, or even superficial aesthetic cues such as the color of the whiskey matching various earthy colors found on the watch – such is the case with this limited pairing from Elka. The Whiskey that comes with this new limited edition watch from Elka is not a Scotch, nor a Bourbon – but rather a single malt by the name of Loch Lat that has been distilled in Neuchatel and aged in Cognac casks. Whiskey that has not been distilled in Scotland lawfully cannot bear the official name of a Scotch (the same goes for Bourbon which needs to be made within the USA) and that’s the case here with this Swiss single malt not bearing either label. This new S series release from Elka is very elegant and dressy in appearance, but ...
Worn & Wound
A Closer Look At The New Timex X Worn & Wound WW75 V3 Endless Summer
Affordable, mechanical, and stylish are why we’re excited to bring the third version of Timex x Worn & Wound WW75 into the world. When we first worked with Timex on this project a few years ago, we didn’t expect it to be an annual event, but we are absolutely thrilled that it is. Timex is a brand every watch fan, collector, and enthusiast knows and enjoys, whether they are just starting with this hobby or have every grail one could imagine. There is an undeniable charm to their fun designs and lack of pretension, two things we highly value at W&W;.The simple act of looking at a watch can do far more than reveal the time. It can inspire us to push our limits, it can bring back a memory, it can simply bring joy. Upon revisiting the Timex x Worn & Wound WW75 for the third and final time in this configuration, we wanted to create a watch that did more than look good, though that was achieved – we wanted it to take you from where you are and transport you back to the end of summer. Back to that time when the weather was first starting to turn, you realized the sun was setting sooner, and a bittersweet nostalgia seemed to creep in on the occasional cool breeze. Affordable, mechanical, and stylish are why we’re excited to bring the third version of Timex x Worn & Wound WW75 into the world. When we first worked with Timex on this project a few years ago, we didn’t expect it to be an annual event, but we are absolutely thrilled that it is. Timex is a brand every watch f...
Worn & Wound
Owner’s Review: the Rolex Oysterquartz 17013
When I began this journey, many years ago and aided by guiding voices from the wider watch community in its various guises, there seemed to be many arbitrary categories than one needed to ‘fill’ in order to have a complete collection. A diver, a dress watch, a chronograph, a beater. These are generally understandable distinctions, even though they are still fairly arbitrary categories which seem to be mostly designed as a justification for buying a new watch. Thankfully, a prevailing tide of “buy what you like” swept over my own journey, and I ended up creating my own categories. In some cases they are rather hard to define, but do the job of ensuring I don’t have too much overlap – meaning everything gets worn. One category I never bought into was the “birth year” watch. Why would it be important to own a watch that was made in the same year I was born? Unfortunately, as I have aged I have grown more fond of watches produced around that time, and I have also become more comfortable in embracing my age (but note that I’m still trying not to give too much away). As such, when a birth year Rolex Oysterquartz Ref 17013 listed for sale, appeared fleetingly on my Instagram feed as I opened the app (before disappearing from sight), I was drawn to it. Fortunately, I recognized the style and composition of the photography and quickly tracked down the watch at UK based reseller Kibble Watches. When I saw the production year, wheels set in motion in my brain about ...
SJX Watches
Editorial: Geneva Auctions Fall 2024
Perhaps the most surprising moment of the fall auction season in Geneva was when the hammer came down on an MoonSwatch at Christie’s for CHF69,300 including fees – exactly the same as a Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” that sold later in the day. But as is almost always the case with record prices at auction, there was a story behind the price and a method to the madness. The MoonSwatch was the unique “millionth” example conceived specifically for this auction, where all proceeds went to ELA, a French medical charity. The ELA sale was spearheaded by Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief of Kering, the luxury conglomerate that owns Christie’s, and certainly one of the most influential people in the luxury goods business. Sitting in the room and opening the sale was Mr Pinault’s fellow trustee at ELA, Zinedine Zidane, the French footballer better known as Zizou who’s regarded as one of the all-time best players and coaches. Christie’s auctioneer Rahul Kadakia with Zizou. Image – Christie’s Bidding via phone, the winning bidder of the MoonSwatch – which sold for over 150 times the retail price – announced to the room via a Christie’s rep that his winning bid was for “ELA and Zizou”. It was clearly a statement that he or she would have paid up for whatever watch was on sale, regardless if it was plastic or precious metal. It was a good deed done that was no bearing on the MoonSwatch or watches in general. To the moon MoonSwatch aside, the season was pos...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Race-Ready Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe
Ulysse Nardin has legitimate, historical maritime credentials, supplying more than 50 navies and merchant marine companies with precision marine deck chronometers in the 1870s. Proud of its seafaring past, Ulysse Nardin is back in the official timekeeping helm of the legendary Vendée Globe single-handed, non-stop, non-assisted round-the-world sailing race. To celebrate its second partnership with […]
Time+Tide
Blancpain rounds out the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe ceramic collection with new dials
Now you don't have to worry about which colour to choose when picking your ceramic Bathyscaphe.The post Blancpain rounds out the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe ceramic collection with new dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Expands with New Ceramic Models
A classic from Blancpain‘s range of sports watches, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is a sleeker and more daily-oriented vision of a dive watch. Available in a host of materials (titanium, gold or ceramic), in various sizes and with an array of complications, the brand now returns to classic functions with two new time-and-date editions and […]
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite: Global Travel Meets Outer Space
GaryG had the opportunity to borrow a Rolex GMT-Master II BLRO Meteorite from a long-time friend to photograph and wear. This watch's main event is the dial, a thin slice of metallic meteorite whose crystalline structure reflects the slow cooling process that took place as the meteor hurtled through space. Here he tries a variety of photographic techniques to learn which works best on the dial's unique structures. Which are your favorites?
SJX Watches
Zenith Beefs Up the Retro Defy Diver
Chunky and water resistant to 600 m, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is based on the Defy A3648 of 1969. It shares the distinctive styling of the vintage original, but the Extreme Diver is modern in construction and specs. The case is titanium while the bezel is black ceramic. Originally introduced with either a black or blue dial, the Extreme Diver now gets a silver dial while retaining the signature bright orange flange. Initial thoughts Zenith’s catalogue includes several sports watches, including the Chronomaster Sport, but the Defy Extreme Diver is arguably the most distinctive design. With historical roots in the vintage Defy A3648, the Extreme Diver is also original. And the watch also manages to look entirely modern, despite preserving most of the design elements of the vintage original, including the angular case and 14-sided inner bezel. The Extreme Defy is one of Zenith’s pricier time-and-date watches at CHF10,900, but is still a reasonable value proposition considering the in-house movement and overall build quality. Stars Rated to 600 m just like the vintage A3648, the Extreme Diver has a case of brushed titanium measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm in thickness. Around the trademark 14-sided inner bezel is a unidirectional black ceramic bezel with fluted edges for grip. Large titanium crown guards protect the fluted screw-in crown at three. The dial is finished in silvery-white with sunburst brushing. Like other Defy models, the dial is decorated wit...
WatchAdvice
Hands On With The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Australian Limited Edition
As part of the 140th Anniversary celebrations, Breitling has released a limited edition Chronomat 42 just for the Australian and New Zealand market, with 140 pieces available. As an Australian publication, we just had to get our hands on it! What We Love: The “Arctic White” dial is fresh and clean The Rouleaux-style rubber strap is comfortable and so easy to wear Size is great and will wear well for most wrist sizes What We Don’t: The way the strap is reversed and threads through towards the body The chronograph pushers are slightly on the stiffer side The anti-reflective coating can be easily seen looking at the watch and dial Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Breitling’s Chronomat has been around for a little while, 82 years in fact, and the original watch resembled a Navitimer more than the modern Chronomat we know today. In fact, the Chronomat was Brerilting’s first slide rule watch and was designed for mathematicians to do complex calculations with the watch – hence the original name CHRONOgraph for MAThematicians, Chronomat. At the time, is was a world first, and what Breitling dubbed, the worlds first “Smart Watch”. It’s a nice play on words and back in 1942, it was revolutionary and was one of Willy Breilting’s most loved products. An original Chronomat from 1942, complete with slide rule. If you think this looks like a Navitier, you would be correct as this was the first watc...
Fratello
Collector’s Story: My Omega Speedmaster Mark 4.5 Financed By The Spy Who Loved Me
We often receive great personal stories from our readers about their watches. Some of them stick with us for a long time, like this story submitted by Nick about his Speedmaster Mark 4.5 and its connection to the Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me. We published this article nearly 10 years ago, but in […] Visit Collector’s Story: My Omega Speedmaster Mark 4.5 Financed By The Spy Who Loved Me to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Tutima Mara Safari Chronograph
Tutima, founded in 1927 in Glashütte, earned its wings with its famous 1941 Flieger flyback chronograph. Following the destruction of its manufacture and eventual relocation to the West, in 1984, it resumed its flight path with chronograph ref. 798, the official pilot’s watch for the German Air Force and NATO. Returning to Glashütte in 2011, […]
Worn & Wound
Subverting Expectations: the Papar Watch Company and their Debut GMT, the Anillo
As a journalist in the watch industry for over a decade, I’ve received dozens upon dozens of emails, DMs, LinkedIn messages, and even WhatsApps from unknown numbers pitching me on new watches and brands. I remember the thrill of these messages early in my career, but after twelve years and thousands of timekeepers later, it’s hard not to become a bit jaded. A couple months ago, one of these messages popped up in my inbox about a new brand coming to market and the model that would be their debut offering. After a few weeks of writing back and forth, I begrudgingly relented and agreed to get together over drinks to see what the brand and watch were all about. Admittedly, I walked into the meeting ready to be thoroughly underwhelmed with the arrogance that I’ve already seen it all, and it would take a lot to really blow my socks off. I was prepared to politely nod and smile, provide a few encouraging words welcoming the brand to the community, and be on my way to the event I had later that evening. But after just a few minutes with Josh Blank, founder of Papar and creator of the Anillo, the brand’s inaugural timepiece, I was eating my words. Josh’s watch story and approach to watchmaking is anything but ordinary. He’s a lawyer who splits his time between his home in the Berkshire Mountains of Massachusetts and San Miguel de Allende, Mexico-a lifestyle he and his wife/business partner Emily have built for their daughters to be bilingual. These elements of p...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Certified Pre-Owned
Vacheron Constantin (VC) has just announced its Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) programme. Focused on recent VC timepieces, the CPO offerings will all be certified and serviced by the brand, and accompanied by a two-year warranty. The CPO programme will also allow clients to trade-in their VC timepieces for a new model. The CPO programme is making its debut with Watchfinder, the pre-owned watch merchant owned by VC’s parent company, the Swiss luxury group Richemont. In time to come, it will progressively be rolled out at VC boutiques, third-party retailers, and even auction houses. Each CPO watch will be accompanied by a two-year international warranty, a “Digital Passport”, and an VC guarantee letter. Watches sold through the CPO programme will be delivered in a VC pouch with a VC seal tag. Strictly speaking, CPO programme isn’t the first time VC is offering pre-owned watches. For several years, select boutiques have carried watches from Les Collectionneurs, vintage VC watches restored and certified by the manufacture. Practically all of the Les Collectionneurs watches are over 40 years old. On the other hand, the CPO programme is distinct as it covers more recent timepieces, including current models.
SJX Watches
Andreas Strehler Debuts Hand Engraved Faune et Flore
Andreas Strehler, known for his complex movements, recruited master engraver Roman Houdek for a collection of floral-themed watches, the Faune et Flore. With each made to order, the timepieces of Faune et Flore are presented in Strehler’s signature ovoid Papillon case and powered by an in-house calibre. The dials are open worked and intricately hand engraved by Mr Houdek. Initial thoughts Though the new line is a departure from the brand’s usual focus on complications, free-hand engraving is no less of an achievement. An art that requires tremendous skill, it is refreshing to see Strehler attempt something different. Elaborate in style, the Faune et Flore departs from Strehler’s traditional aesthetic. While that may not appeal to technical-minded enthusiasts at first glance, the quality of the engraving is easily apparent and complements the case shape. Unsurprisingly given Mr Strehler’s technical talent, the engraved dials are not actually traditional dials. The engraved 18k gold plate serves as a functional bridge for the movement, supporting part of the going train and the two barrels. As a result, there are jewels set into the plate, which form decorative elements in the engraving. Because the engraved plate is functional as well as decorative, this construction requires even more careful work than a conventional engraved dial, in order to ensure the open-worked sections don’t compromise with integrity or flatness of the bridge. That in turn has to be balance...
Fratello
Talking Watch Design In 2024 With Max Resnick And Emmanuel Gueit
Isn’t it fascinating how your life’s trajectory can hang on decisions you make early in life? I picked a subject profile in high school that would later mean I did not qualify for Industrial Design school. If I had picked differently at age 15, there is a good chance I would have become a designer. […] Visit Talking Watch Design In 2024 With Max Resnick And Emmanuel Gueit to read the full article.