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Time+Tide
Here's the history behind the compax name, and why many misuse the word bicompax.The post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: You’ve been misusing the word “bicompax” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The new Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Reinterpretation, or better known as the SLA065, is an addition to a long line of limited edition Prospex watches that have served as a platform for the brand to support various marine conservation programs. It’s a watch that houses multiple intersections of Seiko design and various historical instruments embodying the spirit of exploration during a point in time when what was beyond the horizon, and below the ocean’s surface, was virtually unknown. While resting on the shoulders of the 62MAS, Seiko continues the lineage of the archetypal diver through the SLA065, while simultaneously paying tribute to a time keeping device that predates the wrist watch. The overlapping circle design on the dial is inspired by a 6th century scientific instrument known as an astrolabe. Used for tracking time and astronomical observation, the astrolabe in its infancy was used to track the sun and other prominent stars in relation to the horizon (latitude) and the meridian (longitude). Naturally this information would prove useful for those navigating the seas, and so the astrolabe was modified to be sturdier and more aerodynamic by cutting some of the disc components away. Using a set of pin holes, a pivoting ruler, and a scale on the outer portion of the instrument, a seafarer would be able to determine their latitude, the height of the sun, as well as the time. As one prominent adventurer once put it, the distance you’v...
Time+Tide
Seiko’s attempt to clean up their back catalogue and simplify their product lines may have backfired as soon as they flooded the world with new releases across varying price points, but the Seiko Presage range has continued to be reliably impressive, housing some of the brand’s top finishing and movements. Even within that realm of quality, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SPB361 & SPB363 take inspiration from the break of dawn appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The personalization of high end watches will probably always be a hot topic in the watch community. As long as wealthy collectors are buying watches, some will have an urge to completely revamp them to make them their own. By the same token, the collecting community will always have a segment of purists who find that any tinkering with a brand’s original design amounts to a crime against horology itself. Regardless of your personal feelings and taste, however, I think it’s hard to argue that there are a handful of firms offering custom work at an extremely high level, and Artisans de Genève is certainly at or near the top of a very small list. If gaudy and out of control diamond and gem setting is what comes to mind when you think of custom watches, Artisans de Genève is worth a look, as their house style is rooted in traditional aesthetics executed at a very high level. Because Artisans de Genève doesn’t actually produce and sell their own watches (when browsing their website, you’re reminded at every turn that they aren’t affiliated with Rolex or any other brand, and that they offer custom work for individual clients who provide their own watches), it’s a little hard to get your arms around what they’re working on. That’s largely intentional on their part, of course, but from time to time they will highlight a custom job that is particularly unique or visually beautiful. The Honey Green Project, recently unveiled to the public, is one such example of a...
Deployant
The Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon draws inspiration from the eponymous supercar and the sixteen-cylinder piston engine that powers it.
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Quill & Pad
New year is traditionally a time for taking stock and wine lovers are no different. Many will review their own cellars, assess what is ready for drinking, what needs more time and in some cases, what might have passed its best window. They will also look to the future. What should they target? Ken Gargett shares his tips on the wines to consider adding to your cellar.
Time+Tide
Le Jour aren’t what you would typically consider a microbrand. They weren’t funded through a Kickstarter campaign, nor were they founded by a young visionary who wanted to shake up the watch industry. In fact, if the Le Jour brand name is familiar to you, it may be because they were quite a popular brand … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded by a duo who trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in transforming old pocket watch movements and installing them in custom-made wristwatches. Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry recently completed its third minute-repeating wristwatch, the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater. The Royal Symphony is powered by a movement from a 1910 pocket watch made by Haas Neveux & Cie., a Geneva-based watch brand known for its high-quality movements that active from the mid-19th century to the 1920s. In typical Molnar Fabry style, the movement was entirely reworked, not only to restore its mechanical function, but also entirely decorated to a high level that includes engraving on the bridges. Initial thoughts Each watch made by Molnar Fabry is unique and mostly made according to the client’s specifications since most are made to order. As a result, the brand’s house style covers a diverse aesthetic – it is certainly not for everyone – but the quality of work is always impressive. Being jewellers, the brand’s founders apply the same artisanal, manual techniques used in producing jewellery to their watches. Even in photos the artisanal nature of the work is apparent, ranging from the movement decoration to the hand engraving on the case back. However, Molnar Fabry’s work on the movement is primarily decorative rather than mechanical. As a result, the Haas Neveux calibre still has a balance staff without shock protection. That’s like a non-issue in a watch like the Roy...
Deployant
As the Lunar New Year is around the corner, we are recommending six red watches that we reckon are great for the festivities.
Time+Tide
Is the term integrated bracelet often being misused in the watch world? Our Editor Zach makes the case that it is.The post Making the case: The term ‘integrated bracelet’ is being commonly misused appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hodinkee
The shockingly affordable C1 Bel Canto has captured collectors’ attention and plotted a new course for the brand. And if you missed it the first time, or the second time, you're about to get a third chance.
Time+Tide
What comes to mind when you think of Louis Vuitton? Is it leather bags and wallets? Cream coloured trim? Or maybe a set of high-end luggage for travelling around the world? What if I told you what you should be thinking of is a watch collection with an iconic and flexible design? That’s what we … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The mechanical watch industry has a long history of being cyclical. And with war, COVID-19, and inflation, is the bubble about to burst yet again? Ian Skellern shares his thoughts on what 2023 may bring.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko SKX is a watch that transcends its niche. If you type in “best entry-level watch” into any search engine, you will inevitably be unable to avoid seeing the SKX. The SKX009J1 we are looking at today – might just be the best value dive watch on the market. And that says along, given it was introduced in 1996.
Time+Tide
Blackpink star Lisa was made a Bulgari ambassador in 2020 Their new collaboration has a crazy triple-hue dial It features a loving tribute to her Swiss step-dad Not too long ago in 2022, my first exposure to South Korean stars in the realm of Swiss watches was a photoshoot with heartthrob Hyun Bin wearing the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Editor’s note: In our first Three Watch Collection for $5,000 of 2023, reader and fellow watch writer, Vincent Deschamps of Mainspring.Watch brings us a trio of classics from some of our favorite small independent brands. There’s a lovely and unique balance to these three watches and it’s one of the most creative we’ve come across yet. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. It wasn’t until I thought of submitting my ideas for a three-watch collection for $5,000 that I imagined myself as someone who could have a three-watch collection. While I tend to only wear the same watch everyday (the Lorier Falcon III,) I do see the massive benefit of having other watches for different purposes. As an enthusiastic support of independent watchmaking, below you will find my selection for a three-watch collection below. Each watch fulfills a particular need and use case and I believe each one does it quite well. Lorier Falcon Mark III – $499 At the top of my list is the Lorier Falcon Mark III released in late 2022, the archetype everyday sports watch. I’m a sucker for watches that can do 100% of what I need 95% of the time, and that’s what the Falcon is to me. It comes with a solid build, good specs, and an elegant figure that makes it work in most situations I find myself in. And it’s quite affordable coming in at $499. There are two things about this watch that make it work so well for me: it...
![[VIDEO] Tudor Black Bay Retrospective, A Watch The Launched An Era](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2020/07/TUDOR_BB58_BLUE_4.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Much has been said about the Tudor Black Bay, here and elsewhere, and it’s ushering in of a new era of heritage inspired watches that’s taken hold throughout the industry. The Black Bay family has grown to include a broad range of watches, from GMTs and chronographs, to two-toned 36mm field watches, but the charm of the classic divers remains as strong today as when they were first released more than 10 years ago. Most of us here, and presumably many of you reading, have seen a Black Bay or two come through our collection at some point over the years, and each year we hold out hope for a particular spec or version of the watch we’d like to see released. It’s just had that kind of an effect on enthusiasts. As luck would have it, we recently found ourselves with an abundance of Black Bay watches in the office, so we took the opportunity to get them together and discuss the impact it’s had on each of us over the years. Below find a selection of our Black Bay reviews that we’ve published, including some of our favorites like the Black Bay 58, the Black Bay Pro, and the Steel & Gold Chrono. How has the Black Bay impacted your collecting? Which examples have you owned or do you hope to own? Let us know in the comments and be sure to share your ideal Black Bay that you’d love to see Tudor release this year. Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue The Black Bay 58 in blue was a bright spot in an otherwise tumultuous 2020. This was the second version...
Worn & Wound
This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph, and if you thought TAG Heuer was going to let even a month go by without acknowledging what is perhaps their most famous and admired watch, well, you must be new. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is exactly what you probably want to see if you’re a fan of classic Heuer racing chronographs, as it’s modeled after one of the most legendary Carrera references, the 2447 SN, and matches it detail for detail. Reinterpreting classic watches in a modern package is something TAG probably doesn’t get enough credit for, but if you really want to feel like you’re wearing a vintage watch made with meticulous care, there are few brands doing it better than TAG right now. TAG Heuer is positioning this new release as a watch for the serious collector. It’s limited to 600 units, and the brand is well aware of the high profile of the 2447 SN. Back in early 2020, TAG celebrated the 160th anniversary of the brand with the similarly positioned 160 Years Silver Limited Edition, a recreation of the all silver 2447 S. That was a hugely popular release at the time, but you can imagine collectors grumbling about a preference for the more dynamic panda dial of the 2447 SN. Now it seems likely that TAG was wisely saving the SN for the Carrera’s big 60th birthday party, and we can see the full picture of their strategy take shape. It’s hard to find something new to say about a watch like the Carrera. Do...
Time+Tide
It’s nearly impossible to distil and encompass the variety and unique features of last year’s best complication into only five picks, but we’ll do our best to try, while having to include only a couple honourable mentions. Like any other year, established players in mainstream high-end watchmaking like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne … ContinuedThe post The 5 best high complication watches of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An annual award that seeks to recognise and support promising watchmakers, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is open for submissions until February 1, 2023. The entry criteria is straightforward: watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from any country who have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”, but professional qualifications or training are not necessary. The prize is a CHF20,000 grant meant to finance tools or a watchmaking project. The contest will be judged by a panel including Francois-Paul Journe himself and Giulio Papi, who will select the winner based on originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on Fpjourne.com from now until February 1, 2023.
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Time+Tide
While it may only be the second week of the new year, we already, in this past week alone, have a ton of new novelties to explore. Much of this can be attributed to LVMH Watch Week, that just wrapped up in Singapore, but Grand Seiko also threw their hat in the ring as well. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What’s cooler than being cool? Well, if you’re Outkast, the answer is “ice cold!” (alright, alright, alright), but if you’re a watch collector, there’s a good chance the answer is the Grand Seiko ‘Snowflake’. When first introduced, watch fans were dazzled by the ultra-fine finishing of the titanium case, wowed by the technological prowess of … ContinuedThe post Why the Grand Seiko “Snowflake” captivated the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Dial in the clouds and not a care in the world.
Worn & Wound
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional has taken significant strides over the past couple of years in both design and form, while simultaneously offering multidimensional models across the entire collection. Examples include the green dialed titanium diver with the Aquaracer Professional 300, a fully lumed dial with the Aquaracer Professional Night Diver, and the introduction of the Aquaracer Professional 200 line, which packaged their flagship dive watch into a tidy 40mm case and refined some of the design elements in the process. With all of these signs pointing in the right direction for the brand, the table is set for TAG Heuer to continue their momentum in 2023, and boy, do they do so with the release of the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. TAG Heuer takes the Aquaracer Professional 200 further by going lighter with this new iteration of the Solargraph. All of the case components, including the case body, bezel, and caseback, as well as the accompanying bracelet, are built from grade 2 titanium. Unlike the more refined versions of the Aquaracer Professional 200, there isn’t a hint of polish on the case. Instead, every millimeter of the case and bracelet gets a sand blasted finish giving this diver a more resolute and utilitarian aesthetic. Differentiating Lume The bezel maintains the signature twelve-sided shape with each facet housing a set of six bezel teeth. The black numerals and markers are displayed in-relief, once again keeping the same design language wi...
Hodinkee
Recent arrivals to the shop that deserve a moment of your attention.
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