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Breguet Bestows a Luxe Touch on the Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch SJX Watches
Breguet Bestows Jul 14, 2023

Breguet Bestows a Luxe Touch on the Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch

Breguet has unveiled a unique version of its world time wristwatch for Only Watch, the highly anticipated charity auction. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 “Only Watch 2023” is dressed in striking, rich colours that are unusual for Breguet, bringing a new face to the jumping display, dual time sports watch with a dial that’s a twist on the traditional world map motif. The dial features a gilded globe that’s a representation of the lighted areas of the world at night. Initial thoughts Since its debut last year, the Marine Hora Mundi has remained a hidden gem. The watch boasts a clever jumping dual-time complication and it is also a luxury-sports watch, the most popular segment of watchmaking in recent years. While the production version of the Hora Mundi has a dial that feels relatively flat, the Only Watch edition is far more striking. The dial motif is a clever concept that has not been used before in watchmaking, where gilded accents are used to represent the world’s population. Moreover, the dial does away with the latitude and longitude lines found on the original, making the map and guilloche more prominent. Given the aesthetic appeal of this dial design, we hope that a similar design will be introduced for the regular production model following Only Watch. But for now, the charity auction will be the only chance to land this Hora Mundi. It carries an estimate of CHF70,000 to CHF80,000, a modest price estimate. It anticipated that this will be readily exceeded dur...

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The Grand Seiko GS9 Club for Australia and New Zealand is finally here Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GS9 Club Jul 14, 2023

The Grand Seiko GS9 Club for Australia and New Zealand is finally here

Oh the fear of missing out (or FOMO as the kids say) is real. As I scroll through Instagram stalking the GS9 Club events around the world, I can’t help but ask why? Why am I not there sipping on sake, fondling Grand Seiko after Grand Seiko? When is Australia launching our very own GS9 … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko GS9 Club for Australia and New Zealand is finally here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer Worn & Wound
Bulova Oceanographer Watch collecting has Jul 13, 2023

Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer

Watch collecting has a few rites of passage: Buying an Invicta on vacation. Eagerly purchasing too many watches and quickly filling a watch box. Experiencing buyer’s remorse and selling those watches to recover funds for future purchases. Seller’s remorse setting in, followed by repurchasing watches. With one exception, the Bulova Oceanographer helped me check all of those boxes. I purchased my first Oceanographer during the buying/selling frenzy many enthusiasts go through. Seeing watches in stores and at meetups is cool, but can’t compete with the experience of ownership. Ownership removes the fear of scratching a watch while learning how it feels in 90% humidity. It allows you to test if a bezel still turns after a day at the beach, and to find those annoying design flaws that only become apparent after a few days on the wrist.  $750 Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 821D Dial Black Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Bracelet/rubber strap Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 44 x 46mm Thickness 15mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $750 For a couple years, I had a watch coming and going every month. It was a constant game of hunting for opportunities, always selling, trading and buying. Sometimes I’d make $50, sometimes I’d lose $50. Sometimes I’d organize a trade on Reddit, and anxiously wait to see if the person on the other end of the deal was scamming me (they never were)...

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Ulysse Nardin UFO Final Edition: The unidentified floating object of my desire… Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin UFO Final Edition Jul 13, 2023

Ulysse Nardin UFO Final Edition: The unidentified floating object of my desire…

If you’re working from home right now and looking out over your barren desk, take a moment to stop and think about what your options are for sprucing the place up. You could put a bunch of flowers on there perhaps, maybe a picture of your family, Or that elephant statue your mother-in-law got you … ContinuedThe post Ulysse Nardin UFO Final Edition: The unidentified floating object of my desire… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar seamlessly integrates two of the most intricate complications in watchmaking with symmetry and classic elegance. It has undergone several facelifts since its introduction in 2013, including the champlevé enamel Handwerkskunst of 2017. Now, the brand has introduced the latest incarnation of the model that features a dial in “salmon” – officially known as “pink gold” – while retaining the traditionally constructed calibre in a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Initial thoughts Envisioning further improvements for the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is probably challenging due to its complexity and quality. The Handwerkskunst edition did it with lots of elaborate decoration. Now comes a salmon dial, something a little unexpected, given the lack of colour across the rest of the 1815 family, which sticks fairly rigidly to silvered dials, no matter the case metal. Perhaps the new dial colour is to add a bit more appeal to an otherwise under-appreciated (and slow-selling) complication.  Perhaps the only downside to this release is that it is just a dial change with no substantial changes to note. But the intrinsic quality of the watch itself in terms of finishing, construction, and complexity is already very, very high. So adding a new shade to the otherwise conservative 1815 line up is never a bad thing, especially when done in this limited fashion. New colourway, but the same calibre The dial is ide...

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TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hits Jul 13, 2023

TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph

These are the kinds of midweek surprises I can get on board with. TAG Heuer has revealed a new Carrera Skipper chronograph in the 39mm chassis we saw (and loved) earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. This is a regular production variant of the Carrera that makes excellent use of the sublime Skipper colorway we first saw in the late ‘60s, and most recently in the 2017 limited edition Carrera Skipper for Hodinkee. The color scheme feels right at home in the modern Carrera shoes, with plenty of small details to discover along the way. Best of all, it doesn’t feel like a vintage recreation, it feels purely modern through and through, taking full advantage of the new ‘glassbox’ design of the Carrera.  The latest Carrera sports a range of blue, green, and orange hues in a reflection of the original colorway which made the watch so distinctive. The base dial is a deep blue with contrasting seafoam hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and multicolor minute totalizer at 3 o’clock, which splits the counter into 5 minute segments to more accurately find your position going into the start of a yacht race. The final five minutes, as well as the timing seconds hand, are rendered in orange, denoting their importance to the operation. There is a running seconds hand within a third, almost hidden sub dial appearing at 6 o’clock, which isn’t framed and thus is the same color as the base of the dial. Only the indexes and the hand itself give its position away. The unique new ‘gl...

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The new TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges the coveted reference with new Glassbox format Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges Jul 12, 2023

The new TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges the coveted reference with new Glassbox format

Once enough collectors discover a vintage reference, prices can really drive up as their collectability rises. Due to the age of a watch, and how perspective has shifted on how to appropriately maintain or service a watch, the available number of collector-grade condition watches can be rare. One such coveted, historic, and rare watch is … ContinuedThe post The new TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges the coveted reference with new Glassbox format appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Longines Returns to the Flagship and Adds a Moonphase Worn & Wound
Longines Returns Jul 12, 2023

Longines Returns to the Flagship and Adds a Moonphase

As watch names go, I’ve always thought “Flagship” was a pretty good one. Every brand, I think, strives to have a watch they can comfortably refer to as a flagship model, and Longines, beginning in the late 1950s, went ahead and took a clever shortcut by naming their line of elegant dress watches the Flagship. It makes a lot of sense if you step back and think about it. A brand’s flagship model should be something that defines them – the type of watch that you conjure in your mind’s eye when you think about the brand. Longines of course has a heritage with a ton of variety, making watches in every conceivable genre over the years, but I think it’s fair to say a watch with a certain casual elegance and is really their sweet spot, and the Flagship Heritage models (first introduced in 2017) do a great job of reminding us of what the brand has always excelled at. For their latest release, they’ve returned to the Flagship Heritage concept with three new watches that build on the previous executions, this time with a classic complication included.  The original Flagship Heritage releases of six years ago were lessons in classic understatement – watches that were well considered, beautiful, and completely competent, but not flashy, attention seeking, or attempting to jump on any particular trend. The new Flagship Heritage models are very much made with that same sensibility, but include a moonphase complication, further tying them to watches they’re based on f...

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Behind-the-Scenes with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Anniversary Model Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Jul 12, 2023

Behind-the-Scenes with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Anniversary Model

When the Worn & Wound team was asked to create a video production for the new Citizen 50th Anniversary Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer, we were completely stoked as we were such big fans of the original. Our vision aligned with Citizen on this project making for a solid collaboration for this fun revival. One of our favorite aspects of the shoot was demonstrating the watch on both a male and female wrist. Our female model certainly rocked the Tsuno Chrono with style and grace! If you’re not familiar with the origin, this piece was inspired by the original Citizen Bullhead from 1973, the uncommon chronograph features a 45mm two-tone stainless steel case secured by a sleek brown leather strap. Take a look at our behind the scenes video below to see how our amazing team put together this big launch. When the Worn & Wound team was asked to create a video production for the new Citizen 50th Anniversary Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer, we were completely stoked as we were such big fans of the original. Our vision aligned with Citizen on this project making for a solid collaboration for this fun revival. One of our favorite aspects of the shoot was demonstrating the watch on both a male and female wrist. Our female model certainly rocked the Tsuno Chrono with style and grace! If you’re not familiar with the origin, this piece was inspired by the original Citizen Bullhead from 1973, the uncommon chronograph features a 45mm two-tone stainless steel case secured by a sleek brown leath...

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Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear Time+Tide
Breitling makes Jul 12, 2023

Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear

With all of the streaming platforms at our disposal, there is a fair bit of comfort-food garbage shows for us all to guiltily binge. But, when people ask me what is a good show, a genuinely good show, to watch, FX on Hulu’s The Bear is definitely at the top of the list. For many … ContinuedThe post Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands On With The New Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – A Modern Classic! WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – Jul 12, 2023

Hands On With The New Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – A Modern Classic!

Raymond Weil recently released their new limited edition Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph, and as the official launch partner, we’ve had the pleasure of testing it out over the past couple of weeks. Here’s the results… What We Love Vintage StylingThe multi-faceted dialFlyback functionality What We Don’t Stiff strap and clasp designNo date windowOverhanging lug design Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8/10 Initial Thoughts Sitting in a café in Sydney a few weeks ago, my colleague and I laid eyes on the the Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph for the first time. We knew they were releasing a new pilots watch to add to the Freelancer Chronograph line, and having only seen the press pics, in person it looked the goods, especially the dial. Playing around with it for a little while, it seemed solid and well done, and being a limited edition of just 400, with a price point of AUD $6,995 for a good-looking flyback chronograph that was well built, seemed fair to us based on the competition and price points out there now. And if you missed our article on the release of this watch, before you dive into this review, check out all the details with more live pics here. The Design The design of the new Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph is quite multifaceted, to say the least. Raymond Weil has used different design cues and inspiration to craft the watch to look and feel vintage, but it is anything but. The...

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The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 Dakar introduces a new material to watchmaking Time+Tide
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 Dakar Jul 12, 2023

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 Dakar introduces a new material to watchmaking

There’s an old adage in motorsport that to finish first, first you have to finish. In no event is that truer than the Dakar Rally - a gruelling drive through desert dunes and scorching heat. An average of 62% participants don’t make it to the end of the rally, with amateurs and professionals alike succumbing … ContinuedThe post The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 Dakar introduces a new material to watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in Chicago This Weekend… Worn & Wound
Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Jul 11, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in Chicago This Weekend…

Now in its ninth year, and second in Chicago, the Windup Watch Fair is quickly becoming a fixture of the Chicago watch community. This weekend, enthusiasts, collectors, and newbies alike will gather to shop and talk watches-and this year, there are even more events to participate in! Not only are there over 60 brands to check out at the Fair, as well as a full slate of FREE panels and programming. Read through the full rundown of special events below, but first, let’s remind everyone of the basics. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support of our presenting partners and, most importantly, our Lead Sponsors. This year’s Lead Sponsors include Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and Zodiac. All of these brands will have a significant presence within the Fair, with dynamic booth spaces and special events. Throughout the days, attendees can expect the latest watch releases, a live auction, a full cash bar, dedicated lounge spaces, outdoor space, as well as an on-site watchmaker to adjust and swap straps for your newest or favorite collection pieces. We’re beyond excited to be joined by over 60 presenting brands this year. The full roster of brands includes: And as a reminder, the event location and hours are as follows: Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 14: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Now, ont...

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[VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417 Worn & Wound
Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417 Jul 11, 2023

[VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417

Seiko expanded their popular Sharp Edge family earlier this year with the release of an open heart design in the reference SPB415 and SPB417. The Sharp Edge is a series we’ve been curious about since it was first introduced in 2020, and this latest release has finally given us a chance to go hands-on. Our full review on this watch (from our Ed Jelley) is coming soon, but we took the opportunity to get a quick first reaction when the watch landed in our office, and it wasn’t without a few surprises. Chief among them is that dial texture, which hits very differently than the press images.  Open heart dials are a bit polarizing, but Seiko takes an interesting approach here with the design of the section over the aperture. It feels elevated somehow. The dial is downright perplexing, taking on a different personality at varying angles and lighting situations. But in use, the case itself presents what might be the most compelling feature here, with large geometric surfaces and a mixture of finishes breathing life into the ergonomic profile. How that stands up to further scrutiny remains to be seen. This watch may not have fully won me over on the open heart concept, but it has made me quite keen on the Sharp Edge collection as a whole. Stay tuned for the full review coming later this week to for Ed’s feelings. Seiko. The post [VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Bell & Ross Collaborates with the Alpine F1 Team for a New Take on the BR 05 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Collaborates Jul 11, 2023

Bell & Ross Collaborates with the Alpine F1 Team for a New Take on the BR 05 Chronograph

The latest in the ever expanding lineup of the Bell & Ross BR 05 collection, their popular integrated bracelet sports watch, is a new chronograph reference featuring the colors of the Alpine F1 team, a Bell & Ross partner since 2016, when the team operated under the Renault banner. This is a follow up to a trio of 2021 releases marking the inaugural year of Alpine’s involvement on the F1 circuit, a set of chronographs that still make a lot of sense given the motorsport connection. The new watch builds on the aesthetic established by those that have come before it, combining the distinctive Alpine colorway with an integrated bracelet platform that has proven to be surprisingly durable and adaptable since it was launched in 2020. The phrase that comes up over and over again in Bell & Ross marketing materials for the BR 05 is “sport chic,” and we have to admit, it fits the bill. These are not pure sports or tool watches in the sense that we’ve always understood them. They’re made, primarily, to look nice. They have well executed integrated bracelets, eye-catching finishing with dramatic transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and an overall slender appearance. That’s the “chic.” The “sport” comes in the form of the watch’s specs, which put it on equal footing with its more tool watch focused companions in the Bell & Ross collection. The case and bracelet are made from stainless steel, water resistance is rated to 100 meters with a screw down c...

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The Hublot Big Bang Unico Azur is nautical but nice Time+Tide
TAG Heuer ContinuedThe post Jul 11, 2023

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Azur is nautical but nice

Hublot extend their “Hublot Loves Summer” campaign to the Hublot Big Bang Unico Azur The blue and white ceramic case evokes a classic sailor’s outfit Limited to 50 pieces, it’s only available at the Monaco and St Tropez boutiques The French Riviera tends to get a lot of love from watchmakers. From the TAG Heuer … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Big Bang Unico Azur is nautical but nice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time Worn & Wound
Jul 10, 2023

Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time

Itay Noy, the Israeli watchmaker known for creative and whimsical calendar complications that take a philosophical view to the concept of time, is back with his latest creation, the Seven-Day Cycle. Announced just days ago and officially launching later this week at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, the Seven-Day Cycle is inspired by the idea of looking at the passing of time on a weekly, as opposed to daily, scale.  The centerpiece of the collection is the “Rest Day” watch. Rather than focusing on a daily progression of time, the watch seeks to visualize a weekly cycle. The day is indicated via skeletonized text around the dial’s perimeter, but instead of the day of the week, Itay Noy has given the days numerical values (first day, second day, third day, and so forth). The seventh day (by default) is marked as the “rest day” at the 12:00 position. Itay Noy notes that different religious traditions observe different rest days, so the rest day on the dial can be customized to the owner’s preferences. Dials are available in blue or white for this reference. The Seven-Day Cycle watch is also available in versions that name the days of the week in a more traditional way. The format, though, is largely the same, with skeletonized apertures spelling out the days of the week that are highlighted day by day as the week progresses. The blue and white dials seen in this version of the watch have dividing lines that should aid a bit in legibility, but all watches in the ...

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