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Bernhard Lederer’s New Watch Is Insanely Cool…. and Inverted? | Bernhard Lederer CIC InVerto! Revolution
Dec 21, 2023

Bernhard Lederer’s New Watch Is Insanely Cool…. and Inverted? | Bernhard Lederer CIC InVerto!

Bernhard Lederer, a highly skilled Master Watchmaker of German origin, has established himself in the heart of Swiss watchmaking, Saint Blaise near Neuchâtel. His exceptional craftsmanship and innovative concepts stem from a unique perspective of “Thinking Different.” With a deep appreciation for the horological heritage and a profound respect for esteemed figures like John Harrison, […]

IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar Reference 3541: An Oft-Forgotten Eternal Gem – Reprise Quill & Pad
IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar Reference Nov 5, 2023

IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar Reference 3541: An Oft-Forgotten Eternal Gem – Reprise

IWC is a brand with a rich history, and it is in the fortunate position that each of its collections has an almost equal share in building this history. The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, developed by IWC's master watchmaker Kurt Klaus, was a horological revolution. And from it came this elegant Portofino variation of the 1990s.

Up Close with Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Micro-Rotor ‘Purple Reign’ Revolution
Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Oct 30, 2023

Up Close with Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Micro-Rotor ‘Purple Reign’

The colour worn by nobility was specifically Tyrian purple. It is this association with royalty that inspired our timepiece’s evocative sobriquet, wrote by Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution Watch, “Color has always held a special fascination for me, particularly in the way the subtle control and modulation of hue is capable of extraordinary expression.” Our […]

Atelier Wen and Revolution Team Up for a Second Time on a Gorgeous Perception Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Oct 11, 2023

Atelier Wen and Revolution Team Up for a Second Time on a Gorgeous Perception Limited Edition

Atelier Wen is a unique proposition in the watch industry. The brainchild of Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the 5-year old company has made its mark by presenting watches inspired by Chinese culture. Its second model line, the Perception, features a true guilloché dial hand-carved by one Chinese Master Cheng Yucai. This model – and the brand – have attracted attention for what is considered a rare level of handwork on a dial for its price point. The latest iteration of the Perception comes to us via a collaboration with watch media favorite Revolution. This is the Atelier Wen x Revolution Perception ‘Càn’. The first go around for Atelier Wen and Revolution was a hit. It was called the ‘Xi’, meaning ‘jubilation’ in Mandarin. That Perception was paired with a rubber strap and featured a glorious red dial. All 100 promptly sold out. This latest collaboration is called the ‘Càn’ (粲), meaning ‘brightness’ or ‘splendor’, and looking at the watch, it’s clear why. The Càn’s dial is a champagne sunburst flinqué giolloché, and it is striking. Story has it that Master Cheng Yucai was intrigued by the technique and art of rose turning pioneered by the English and Swiss but was unable to procure his own machine. Undeterred, he set out to design and build his own machine and filed several patents along the way. On a basic level, the rose turning machine enables a human to carve intricate designs and patterns on a dial. Notable watchmakers l...

Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Rado Brings their Ongoing Work Sep 18, 2023

Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions

When two masters in their respective industry collide, something magic is sure to happen. That’s exactly the feeling one gets when looking at Rado, the Master of Materials, and Le Corbusier, the master of design, as the two legacies meld into a release of new references. Adding three new colorways selected from the 63-shade Architectural Polychromy palette to the distinct True Square collection, we’re seeing a heightened look at craftsmanship and design that shows the sum is often greater than its parts. Rado has long had a relationship with the Foundation Le Corbusier for their True Thinline set of watches, but these three new releases from the brand are the first to utilize the sportier design of the True Square silhouette. This design is marked by a high-tech ceramic case coming in at a comfortable and discreet 37 x 43.3 mm, perfect for nearly any wrist size. The real beauty of this watch is the balance of technical precision and everyday use, mixing a Rado caliber R420 quartz movement with high-tech innovative ceramic that Rado has become known for within the industry. For the three colorways themselves, each taken from the Architectural Polychromy, they’re a sleek and subtle scheme that fits perfectly against the backdrop of both Le Corbusier’s and Rado’s Swiss heritage. This collection includes Natural Umber, Iron Grey, and Ivory Black. The use of ceramic perfectly matches the tonal qualities of these three references, as Rado has perfected color blending w...

Exhibition: A.-L. Breguet and England at The Science Museum, London SJX Watches
Breguet Sep 12, 2023

Exhibition: A.-L. Breguet and England at The Science Museum, London

Abraham-Louis Breguet: The English Connection opens today at the Clockmakers Museum, part of The Science Museum in South Kensington, displaying an array of vintage Breguet clocks that illustrate the master watchmaker’s connection to the United Kingdom. Marking the 200th anniversary of Breguet’s death, the display cases are full of pieces brought together from private and public collections, with some pieces being shown in a museum setting for the very first time.  The poster for the exhibition. Image – The Clockmakers’ Museum. The headline exhibit is the four-minute tourbillon, no. 1297, made for King George III that sold at Sotheby’s in 2020 for £1.6 million (roughly $2 million) that many thought would never be seen in the country again after it crossed the auction block. However, thanks to the efforts of those at the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers and the Clockmaking Museum, it will be on display for an entire year alongside other rarely seen creations from Breguet.  The story behind this watch is worth digging into a bit, as it was bought at a time when England and France were at war with each other and so there was a ban on French goods entering the country. This is why you won’t see the name Breguet anywhere visible on the watch. Instead you have the name of the retailer the King went through inscribed in large lettering on the movement bridge. But if you pay close attention, Breguet signed his name in small letters on the tourbillon carriage, in the...

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos Time+Tide
HYT Aug 30, 2023

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos

The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” Jul 31, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline”

Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration Dial is starting to hit the secondary market. Shocker, it is priced high… Time+Tide
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration Dial Jul 26, 2023

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration Dial is starting to hit the secondary market. Shocker, it is priced high…

Rolex at Watches & Wonders this year can be described in two words: acid trip. Sure, there were the usual incremental updates to lines such as the GMT Master II and Rolex Daytona. And it was exciting to see the new 1908 have a sapphire caseback across all models and the platinum anniversary Daytona as … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration Dial is starting to hit the secondary market. Shocker, it is priced high… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Squale Teams Up with an Elite Italian Dive Squad for their Latest Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Squale Jul 3, 2023

Squale Teams Up with an Elite Italian Dive Squad for their Latest Limited Edition

We’re in the midst of a long Fourth of July weekend here in the US, which means summer has more than arrived, and if you weren’t already in full colorful dive watch mode, now’s the time to figure out what the poolside, cocktail sipping watch is going to be. Squale, with their new Master x Palombari del Comsubin diver with a bright blue dial, is a late entry in the ongoing summer watch sweepstakes. The watch combines a unique piece of Italian military heritage into its design, and represents a surprising first for the brand. It’s also likely that its impressive specs can handle time at the beach, the pool, waiting around at the airport, and a whole lot more this vacation season.  The watch is based on Squale’s Master Marina Militare platform, relaunched in 2022 but with roots going back to the 1960s. The overall design here is 100% tool diver, with a simple, unfussy case, and a dial that’s similarly focused on the important stuff, namely legibility and providing plenty of lume via a sandwich dial construction. The seal on the dial at 6:00 is that of the Comsubin dive team, an elite segment of the Italian Navy that specializes in the most complex underwater operations. The bright blue shade used for the dial is both a Squale signature and an homage to the Comsubin uniform, which is a similar tone. Squale says that the Comsubin played a key role in the design of the watch, which is specced to handle just about anything they might encounter – members of the team...

Had a watch stolen? Use this Premier League footballer’s tactic to get it back… Time+Tide
Rolex May 24, 2023

Had a watch stolen? Use this Premier League footballer’s tactic to get it back…

In March this year, Premier League footballer Rico Henry was in a London hotel when he somehow managed to lose his Rolex. The watch had apparently fallen out of his pocket. When Henry discovered that his Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHMR was missing, the Brentford left-back was understandably distraught. But when he checked with the … ContinuedThe post Had a watch stolen? Use this Premier League footballer’s tactic to get it back… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Prototype Turned Bonafide Addition to Martin-Baker Collection: Introducing the Bremont MB Viper Worn & Wound
Bremont MB Viper Bremont May 17, 2023

A Prototype Turned Bonafide Addition to Martin-Baker Collection: Introducing the Bremont MB Viper

Bremont and ejection seat manufacturer Martin-Baker have been working with another for over a decade now, and they’re partnership has laid the groundwork for innovation in both the testing and watchmaking process. These two British companies are most certainly birds of a feather, producing their own specialty products with a stamp of dependability that signifies the extensive testing and meticulous quality control that goes into each and every component. They both are constantly pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in their respective industries. It’s no surprise that when Bremont brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores with its series of Caliber ENG300 movements, they tapped into Martin-Baker’s intense equipment and performance testing program. That idea has evolved to what is now the foundation of Bremont’s MB range and created a whole new category of testing, as well as set a brand new standard for the pilots watch. Bremont and Martin-Baker’s latest collaborative project looks forward by looking back – not at their rich history in engineering and technical ingenuity, but at the MB testing program itself and the actual test instrument used by Bremont. In order to test the viability of their Caliber ENG300 movement series, Bremont created a special housing that was attached to the dashboard of an ejection simulator. Bremont then went a step further by affixing a set of carbon fiber lugs to that special housing and strapped it to the wrist of a test mann...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch by Philippe Dufour SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch May 5, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch by Philippe Dufour

Arguably the master of movement decoration, Philippe Dufour is revered for the impeccable finishing of his wristwatches – along with a handful of pocket watches, including the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch that sold in 2021 at Philips for CHF2.33 million including fees. But the first timepieces Mr Dufour made never bore his name on the dial. They were a series of five grande sonnerie pocket watches created for Audemars Piguet (AP) that he began in the late 1970s and completed in 1988. The very first of the five, the Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch no. 1 – by Philippe Dufour for Audemars Piguet – will go under the hammer at Philips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 13 and 14, 2023. (Video courtesy of Phillips) Initial Thoughts Having slowly gone out of fashion starting in the early 2000s, pocket watches tend to go under the radar when set against comparable wristwatches. In 2021, Philippe Dufour’s own Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for more than double his grande sonnerie pocket watch – in the same auction. However, anyone who understands independent watchmaker and Mr Dufour’s work will appreciate the significance of this pocket watch. This not only predates the Philippe Dufour brand, but the series of five watches made for AP was the impetus for him to strike out on his own. Because of what he perceived as deeply disrespectful behaviour by AP executives, Mr Dufour vowed never again to make watches for others after completing the five watches for AP. ...

The new Maurice Lacroix AIKON Grand Date is emboldened with bright colours Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix AIKON Grand Date Apr 30, 2023

The new Maurice Lacroix AIKON Grand Date is emboldened with bright colours

With the Northern Hemisphere summer approaching, Maurice Lacroix reinvents their Aikon line with the introduction of four new colourways of the Master Grand Date. The model debuted in 2021 with a blue dial and an Only Watch appearance, before being presented in a stealthier configuration the year after. These new releases take the best aspects … ContinuedThe post The new Maurice Lacroix AIKON Grand Date is emboldened with bright colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss Time+Tide
Rolex Milgauss Coming up Apr 19, 2023

Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss

Coming up to Watches and Wonders, many were excited to see a new Rolex Milgauss model or an updated version of the one running since 2007. Rumours even circulated about an all-titanium Milgauss. Watches and Wonders ended, brand new Rolex models came, and the Milgauss disappeared from the brand’s website without a trace. The Yacht-Master … ContinuedThe post Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.