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[VIDEO] Review: The Black Bay 54 – A Black Bay to Rule them All? Worn & Wound
Tudor launched Jul 6, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The Black Bay 54 – A Black Bay to Rule them All?

It’s amazing to look back to 2018 and see the utter excitement and disbelief I felt when Tudor launched the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, a sentiment that was shared by many. It seemed as though our hopes and prayers had been answered. Finally, a vintage-inspired dive watch with a great movement at a smaller size, by a brand with provenance. While that seems like daily news in 2023, a sub-40mm dive watch, at the time, from a major Swiss brand was still hard to come by. It was clear Tudor had a hit. And, as per usual, we expected they would capitalize on that hit. In the conclusion of my review from 2019, I say “…it’s likely they will expand greatly on the collection.” I was wrong, and this is where the story of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, and Tudor, takes a slightly different direction. Rather than doing what most brands do, including themselves with other models, they pumped the brakes. The rainbow of options never came, instead, there were a total of five variations broken down as two in steel, a silver model (still crazy), a solid gold, and a bronze boutique edition. Not what we expected. 37mm is just right Tudor then left the Black Bay Fifty-Eight behind for a while, coming out instead with a series of unexpected sports watches in new-ish platforms. The Pelagos FXD, while part of their larger tech diver line, featured a different case, modified dial and bezel designs, and a genuine military tie-in. The Black Bay Pro put their GMT and a date complication into a 39mm c...

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Hublot Introduces the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Jul 6, 2023

Hublot Introduces the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire

Hublot has once again partnered with its favourite contemporary artist for Only Watch 2023: the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire is a one-of-a-kind creation for the biennial charity auction that is entirely unique from case to movement. Not only it is the brand’s first-ever central tourbillon, the watch has a sapphire crystal case in the shape of a flower with a bezel set with rainbow gemstones. Initial thoughts While Hublot is sometimes made fun of for its often repetitive limited editions that are colour facelifts, the creation for Only Watch is entirely new and entirely unique. Hublot and the Japanese artist have collaborated in the past, but on watches that were variants of standard models. In contrast, the Murakami Only Watch  pushes boundaries even by Hublot’s extravagant standards with a case entirely in sapphire, and flower-shaped no less. The Murakami Only Watch is also interesting mechanically. The calibre inside has a 150-hour power reserve along with a large, central tourbillon on the front. And the movement is unique to the Murakami Only Watch, at least for now. The aesthetic and mechanical novelty of the Murakami Only Watch are impressive and certainly makes this one of the highlights of Only Watch 2023. While Hublot will almost certainly create variations of this in the future, the effort expended in creating Murakami Only Watch is commendable. The Murakami Only Watch has an estimate of CHF350,000 to CHF400,000, with the high estimate being a ...

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Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Jul 6, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch

A regular participant at Only Watch, Girard-Perregaux’s latest contribution to the charity auction, the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch 2023, revisits its innovation constant-force escapement. Girard-Perregaux (GP) first unveiled the Constant Escapement in 2013 as a wristwatch with a unique, dual-wheel escapement with an integral constant-force silicon buckling spring. Ten years on, the Neo Constant Escapement is a revamp of the original concept with incremental upgrades to the mechanism. Initial thoughts The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is not merely a rehash of the original. It is a technical evolution, which is at the very minimum an academically interesting take on an already exotic escapement. The Only Watch edition is dressed in predominantly monochromatic livery with a pink gold case and movement bridges – even the mainspring barrels are pink gold. The generous use of pink gold might be polarising, which arguably makes it perfectly suited as a one-off piece that will inevitably find an eager buyer at the auction. In the grander scheme of things however, the NCE Only Watch edition marks the beginning of GP reviving the Constant Escapement. Even by today’s standards of advanced tech in watchmaking, the Constant Escapement is an integrated design comprised of a double-wheel escapement with a remontoir spring, making it an escapement unlike any other. It is admirable that the escapement has been updated for better reliability, while preserving its original ide...

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Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48. All the Colors of the Rainbow (This Year’s Auction Theme) Quill & Pad
Jul 6, 2023

Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48. All the Colors of the Rainbow (This Year’s Auction Theme)

Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet. This year the theme is rainbows: some brands ran with that superbly, while others took a different path. Here Ian Skellern highlights Lots 33-48.

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The Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Editions show off the FXD’s potential Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Jul 6, 2023

The Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Editions show off the FXD’s potential

The Tudor Pelagos FXD was born as a modern successor to the Marine Nationale Its case distinguishes itself with fixed strap bars (no springbars) Two new “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” Editions are released with new carbon composite case material and first-ever Pelagos FXD Chronograph I think it is fair to say that Tudor are really killing … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Editions show off the FXD’s potential appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Seiko Announces Jul 5, 2023

Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch

How many times can you go back to the well? If you’re Seiko, and the well is the 62MAS, the answer, apparently, is as many times as you’d like. Or, six. By my rough count, that’s how many re-editions of the historically important Seiko diver we’ve seen since 2017, when they began to really lean into the iconography of their first professional dive watch with the SLA017 along with the SPB051, setting a template for both limited edition, higher priced versions of the 62MAS reedition for collectors, and a more value oriented approach for everyday watch enthusiasts, an approach that was arguably perfected with the SPB143 and its many, many variants. Now, just announced, Seiko has revealed a new re-edition of the 62MAS that might be the closest yet to the aesthetic of the original, with a higher end movement that brings the watch into luxury territory.  The headline here is that the case size of the new SJE093 is the closest approximation yet to the original watch from 1965. It gets the diameter exactly right at 38mm, and, crucially, comes in at just 12.5mm thick. Those are nearly identical measurements to the original 62MAS, and a whole lot more slender than the reissues, and it’s thanks to a new caliber making its debut in this very watch.  The new caliber is the 6L37, which shares an architecture with the 6L35, but has been upgraded to be more durable and resistant to shocks. Seiko says this caliber was made expressly for divers. The “L” series movements are ...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On With The Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ in Steel Worn & Wound
Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ Jul 5, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On With The Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ in Steel

Last month, Oris introduced a followup collection to their incredibly popular Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection, this time rendered in 38mm steel cases. The bright dials and steel bezel works just as well here as they did in the bronze case variants from last year. These new dial colors feel right at home in the 38mm steel case, which is a first for a regular production Divers Sixty-Five watch. It should come as no surprise that the watches retain their big personality in person, which we discover in this first look at the new summer ready batch of Diver Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection. We haven’t been shy about our preference for this case size in the Diver Sixty-Five range, and we’re happy to see it make its way into a steel configuration. The bright dials feel fresh and modern, creating some potential conflict with the riveted three link bracelet that’s on offer. Thankfully that’s an easy opportunity to create a vibe of your own with a different strap, or even the perlon fabric strap that’s also offered by Oris for these watches. It’s a look that could take a number of forms depending on the strap choice. As fun as the Cotton Candy collection is, seeing this case size take hold in the regular production range of the Diver Sixty-Five offers an exciting prospect of seeing other variations take shape in the same size. It feels like only a matter of time before we see a regular black or blue dial or even a complication make its way over. Either way, t...

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Jean Arnault tells the story of the new Louis Vuitton Tambour Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Jul 5, 2023

Jean Arnault tells the story of the new Louis Vuitton Tambour

To most people an entry-level watch would be something like a Casio, Seiko, or maybe a Hamilton if you want to go Swiss. However, Louis Vuitton have made a significant declaration that they’re not interested in catering to ‘most people’. Although the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has included some true technical marvels, the air of … ContinuedThe post Jean Arnault tells the story of the new Louis Vuitton Tambour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Second Skin: Part One, The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo with Laurent Picciotto Revolution
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Jul 5, 2023

Second Skin: Part One, The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo with Laurent Picciotto

In this three-part series, we explore the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo with three esteemed guests, all amazing and respectable in their own rights. For the first instalment, Wei chats with Laurent Picciotto, a well-known and highly respected figure in the world of luxury watches. Picciotto is the founder of Chronopassion, a renowned watch boutique located in Paris, […]

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G-SHOCK Looks to the Northern Lights for Inspiration in New MTG-B3000 Aurora Oval Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jul 4, 2023

G-SHOCK Looks to the Northern Lights for Inspiration in New MTG-B3000 Aurora Oval

A new MT-G from G-Shock brings a stunning selection of vibrant colors to the case, dial, and strap in a full embracing of its inspiration, the aurora borealis as seen from space. The watch is the MTG-B3000, and it uses a stainless steel recrystallization and deep-layer hardening processes with a rainbow IP coating applied to the surface that brings the shimmering ROY G BIV tones to life on the bezel and case. The result is an ever changing vibrance paired with blacks, reds, and purples to round out the effect. This is a watch that uses every surface, nook, and cranny to express the theme, and it makes a unique impression as a result, even for an MT-G.  Taking inspiration from nature is nothing new of course, as we’ve seen executed beautifully by the likes of Grand Seiko and others, generally in the form of a dial texture or the color palette at use. In typical G-Shock style, they’ve embraced the inspiration of the aurora in a unique manner thanks to their material processes and treatments. The aurora borealis is not a static event, occurring when charged particles collide with the earth’s atmosphere, causing billions of flashes to occur in sequence, giving the appearance of ‘dancing’ across the sky in an organic manner. Recreating this effect in a material was the goal for G-Shock, and one they achieved in a way that is unfortunately incapable of being captured in photographs. The process of creating the bezel begins with the stainless steel base, which undergoe...

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CronotempVs & TAG Heuer Collaborate To Celebrate 60 Years of the Carrera With New Carrera CC Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Collaborate Jul 4, 2023

CronotempVs & TAG Heuer Collaborate To Celebrate 60 Years of the Carrera With New Carrera CC

The collectors group known as CronotempVs has revealed their latest project, and it’s with none other than TAG Heuer in conjunction with the 60th anniversary of the famed Carrera chronograph. The open collaboration done with the collector community uses the modern 42mm Carrera case, and dials in plenty of special details in the process on the dial and the movement. The watch is called the Carrera CC (CronotempVs Collectors), and it takes inspiration from the 1974 Carrera ref. 1153BN, aka the ‘Yachting’ so named for the orange segments within the minute totalizer.  CronotempVs and TAG Heuer have created a fitting modern tribute to the 1153BN with the Carrera CC, incorporating the same character of the original in the modern Carrera chassis. This is not the 39mm ‘glassbox’ template that we were quite fond of when we saw it in Geneva (and are currently working on our long term review), but it does bring the caliber TH20-00 into the equation via the modern Carrera case we’ve come to know and (maybe) love. This platform  captures a specific fan favorite reference and highlights its versatility, as well as the timelessness of the design language as a whole. The original 1153BN was presented in a cushion case, with a dark blue dial and orange accents, and these are the starting blocks of the Carrera CC. The contrasting chapter ring and orange accents have been put to use brilliantly here, at once honoring the original while taking it into a new direction altogether....

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Bravur Releases the La Grande Boucle III Chronograph, their Latest in an Ongoing Series of Cycling Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Bravur Jul 4, 2023

Bravur Releases the La Grande Boucle III Chronograph, their Latest in an Ongoing Series of Cycling Inspired Watches

Every year, the Tour de France captivates the imagination and competitive spirit of those who are interested in cycling. While many Americans probably associate the sport with Lance Armstrong, there is an entire population of cycling enthusiasts who watch with bated breath as some of the top athletes in the sport traverse 2,115 miles over 23 days across France. It’s a spectacle of dedication, athleticism, and, yes, a bit of national pride. Swedish watch brand Bravur has tapped into the enthusiasm of the sport with the release of their series of watches dedicated to the Grand Tours, the top three most prestigious cycling events of the year. With the 2023 Tour de France upon us, Bravur has just released their third edition of Le Grand Boucle. The latest in the series to honor the Gallic event, Bravur has taken design elements of previous versions, while making the Le Grand Boucle III entirely new.  Starting with the visuals, the latest from Bravur is a vibrant pairing of yellow (long associated with the Tour winner) and a ceramic black coating on the case, giving it a sporty look that still remains sophisticated. The small details of this watch show that Bravur has done their homework, including the frosted white dial features and dot markers, reminiscent of the legendary polka dot patterns found on the King of the Mountains jersey, awarded to the race’s top climber. Further design themes that nod to the Tour’s history include an inverted “13” on the chapter ring,...

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The Horological Society of New York unveils six lots for their 2023 charity auction Time+Tide
Jul 4, 2023

The Horological Society of New York unveils six lots for their 2023 charity auction

While the field of watch enthusiasts, collectors, and buyers is rapidly growing, the number of watchmakers is unfortunately not. Most young children continue to aspire to be astronauts, Navy Seals,  athletes, or Tik Tok influencers. It would be a very surprising moment for a parent to hear their child say: One day, I want to … ContinuedThe post The Horological Society of New York unveils six lots for their 2023 charity auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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What Its Like To Have A Holiday On Your Wrist With The New Tissot Sideral! WatchAdvice
Tissot Sideral! Over Jul 4, 2023

What Its Like To Have A Holiday On Your Wrist With The New Tissot Sideral!

Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been playing around with the new Tissot Sideral collection, and at first I wasn’t sure of what to make of them. But after trying them on and wearing them, I now get it! What We Love Bright colours really popSuper comfortable to wearTotally unique look What We Don’t Strap fastening systemBezel action is roughNot an everyday watch or for everyone Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 7.5/10 Initial Thoughts When I first saw the press release on the Tissot Sideral collection (Which we covered here), I wasn’t sure what to make of them. A colourful re-invention of a sports watch from 1971 with a regatta timer – would it work? The short answer is yes, it does! A fun and playful watch, these are not to be taken seriously. Whilst the original was a serious watch 50 yeas ago, the 2023 Sideral takes that seriousness and flips it on its head. The new Tissot Sideral collection – colourful and playful! At $1,550 AUD, these are not overly expensive pieces in comparison to the larger world of luxury watches where many pieces are now into the $10,000+ range. And I’ll go out on a limb here and say these are not entry level either, despite their price. Why? Because they’re not an everyday wearing watch, they are designed to have fun with, and in my opinion, this is a watch that even seasoned collectors can add to their collection for that reason. After having all three models for a couple...

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Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Enamel Blue SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Jul 3, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Enamel Blue

Ulysse Nardin is introducing a more classical iteration of its affordable Freak to mark the 15th year of PMT The Hour Glass, a luxury watch retailer in Thailand. The Freak X Enamel Blue maintains the avant-garde styling of the model while introducing a touch of old school elegance with a captivating blue enamel dial embellished with vibrant guilloché. Initial thoughts Ulysse Nardin, known for its experimental designs, pleasantly surprises by integrating a champlevé enamel dial into a watch that is otherwise unabashedly modern. The standout feature is the dial that combines the artistry of enamelling and guilloché, made possible by the brand’s in-house dial factory. This infusion of classicism into the inherently contemporary watch results in an understated and surprisingly harmonious aesthetic. As is always the case with a novel limited edition, hopefully Ulysse Nardin will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating too much in future models. The Freak X Enamel Blue carries a price tag of US$40,100, almost twice the cost of the standard model. While the dial is traditional enamel – painted and fired by hand in other words – the construction and movement remain unchanged over the standard model, making the price hard to rationalise. 15th anniversary The Freak X edition commemorates the fifteenth anniversary of PMT The Hour Glass, a joint venture between local jeweller Prima Times (PMT) and Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass. Establish...

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Vintage-inspired pieces from Furlan Marri are the latest newcomers to the Time+Tide Shop Time+Tide
Furlan Marri are Jul 3, 2023

Vintage-inspired pieces from Furlan Marri are the latest newcomers to the Time+Tide Shop

Throughout the last few weeks, we’ve brought you funky, affordable, sporty, vintage-inspired and some cult classics to the Time+Tide Shop. However, as a hub of some of the best independent brands in the business, it just wouldn’t do without Furlan Marri – one of the most impressive horological stories of the last few years. Combining … ContinuedThe post Vintage-inspired pieces from Furlan Marri are the latest newcomers to the Time+Tide Shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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