Deployant
Six watches for survival in the urban jungle
For this week’s musings, we suggest six watches to help you survive the urban jungle. With watches from Bell & Ross, Chopard, Citizen, GO, Zenih and Piaget.
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Deployant
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Why the new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won me over with its quiet luxury appeal
This year the Bulgari Octo Roma received a long overdue makeover that brings it more in line with its more flashy sibling Finissimo. Not only do the changes add welcome continuity across the collection, but also a little extra elegance to the collection’s more affordable but no less delightful offering. I would hazard a guess … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Why the new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won me over with its quiet luxury appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition
The notion of a nature-inspired watch is nothing new for Grand Seiko, it is certainly their M.O. But when the Grand Seiko SBGJ269 “Pink Flannel Flower” Limited Edition was released last year it was a huge deal for multiple reasons. Firstly, the SBGJ269 was the first-ever Australian limited edition from Grand Seiko. Secondly, the 50-piece … ContinuedThe post UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Longines send you over the moon with their newest Flagship Heritage
Longines’ classic Flagship line gets a handsome new 38.5mm Heritage model in three colourways The new models feature both a moonphase and calendar function on a well-balanced dial The original Flagship made its debut in 1957, and was one of Longines’ first wristwatch collections Longines are one of the oldest watch brands in the world, … ContinuedThe post Longines send you over the moon with their newest Flagship Heritage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart
Seiko’s Presage lineup falls into an interesting place within the wide world of Seiko. Between Seiko 5 Sports, Prospex, Astron, King Seiko, and the separate Grand Seiko, there’s a lot to take in. The Presage line is meant to highlight Seiko’s watchmaking chops by combining a traditional Japanese sense of aesthetics with traditional techniques. The result is a lineup of watches that are elevated over your standard Seiko offerings with more advanced finishing and dial work, most of which tend to lean a bit dressy. The SPB417 we’re taking a look at today is right at home in the Presage lineup, with some really intriguing dial work, crisp applied indices, and an angular case that shows off a variety of finishing techniques. Let’s take a closer look at this brand-new offering from Seiko and all it has to offer. $ The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Case Stainless steel Movement 6R5J Dial Aitetsu blue with asanoha pattern Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 10 bar Dimensions 40.2 x 47.4mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty Yes Price $ Case Measuring 40.2mm wide by 47.4mm lug-to-lug, the SPB417 fits firmly in the mid-sized category. I would say that the measurements and case architecture line up, as the watch wears how the dimensions would imply. The watch is part of the “Sharp Edged” series, which debuted back in 2020 and has since grown to include several different models. One of the important fe...
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Longines Spirit COSC Pilot Watch - The Best Finishing in Class - L888 Automatic - L3.811.4.93.6
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Rolex Rainbow Day-Date, A Vacheron Constantin With A Gold Movement, And The Anti-Magnetic Omega Seamaster 'Bumblebee'
Plus a throwback Breitling Re-edition LE and a Breguet Moonphase in this week's curated selection of what the Hodinkee Shop has to offer.
Worn & Wound
Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch
If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. The post Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm is a no-gimmick joy for smaller tastes
The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm shrinks down the crowd-favourite dive watch. Despite its reduced size, it retains all necessary diving specifications. Three models are available in black, blue or grey with a gold PVD case. Given the sheer amount of dive watches which get released every day, it’s pretty common for them to include some … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm is a no-gimmick joy for smaller tastes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
One To Watch: Hervé Schlüchter's 'Tree of Life' Project Uses The Purest Watchmaking To Imagine Time Across Generations
With decades of experience, and tutelage from one of the best, Schlüchter just announced his first of a line of creative and emotional watches covering past, present, and future.
Worn & Wound
Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer
Watch collecting has a few rites of passage: Buying an Invicta on vacation. Eagerly purchasing too many watches and quickly filling a watch box. Experiencing buyer’s remorse and selling those watches to recover funds for future purchases. Seller’s remorse setting in, followed by repurchasing watches. With one exception, the Bulova Oceanographer helped me check all of those boxes. I purchased my first Oceanographer during the buying/selling frenzy many enthusiasts go through. Seeing watches in stores and at meetups is cool, but can’t compete with the experience of ownership. Ownership removes the fear of scratching a watch while learning how it feels in 90% humidity. It allows you to test if a bezel still turns after a day at the beach, and to find those annoying design flaws that only become apparent after a few days on the wrist. $750 Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 821D Dial Black Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Bracelet/rubber strap Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 44 x 46mm Thickness 15mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $750 For a couple years, I had a watch coming and going every month. It was a constant game of hunting for opportunities, always selling, trading and buying. Sometimes I’d make $50, sometimes I’d lose $50. Sometimes I’d organize a trade on Reddit, and anxiously wait to see if the person on the other end of the deal was scamming me (they never were)...
Video
This is the Grand Seiko You’ve Been Waiting For (Better than a Rolex)
Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin UFO Final Edition: The unidentified floating object of my desire…
If you’re working from home right now and looking out over your barren desk, take a moment to stop and think about what your options are for sprucing the place up. You could put a bunch of flowers on there perhaps, maybe a picture of your family, Or that elephant statue your mother-in-law got you … ContinuedThe post Ulysse Nardin UFO Final Edition: The unidentified floating object of my desire… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Rolex Daytona gets a skeletonised remix in white ceramic at the hands of 2 Chainz
The rapper 2 Chainz is called “2 Chainz” because of his predilection for wearing, you guessed it, two chains. In other words, the hip-hop artist clearly takes his accessories very seriously. And that passion extends to his wristwear, too. “I like to carry around seven watches, because there’s seven days in a week,” he once … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Daytona gets a skeletonised remix in white ceramic at the hands of 2 Chainz appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial
The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar seamlessly integrates two of the most intricate complications in watchmaking with symmetry and classic elegance. It has undergone several facelifts since its introduction in 2013, including the champlevé enamel Handwerkskunst of 2017. Now, the brand has introduced the latest incarnation of the model that features a dial in “salmon” – officially known as “pink gold” – while retaining the traditionally constructed calibre in a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Initial thoughts Envisioning further improvements for the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is probably challenging due to its complexity and quality. The Handwerkskunst edition did it with lots of elaborate decoration. Now comes a salmon dial, something a little unexpected, given the lack of colour across the rest of the 1815 family, which sticks fairly rigidly to silvered dials, no matter the case metal. Perhaps the new dial colour is to add a bit more appeal to an otherwise under-appreciated (and slow-selling) complication. Perhaps the only downside to this release is that it is just a dial change with no substantial changes to note. But the intrinsic quality of the watch itself in terms of finishing, construction, and complexity is already very, very high. So adding a new shade to the otherwise conservative 1815 line up is never a bad thing, especially when done in this limited fashion. New colourway, but the same calibre The dial is ide...
Teddy Baldassarre
Frederique Constant Review: Brand History and All the Major Watch Coll
Frederique Constant has been making watches for only 35 years, but the Geneva-based brand’s list of accomplishments, and its impressive and diverse roster of timepieces, might well convince you that it has been at the horology game much longer. In this feature, we trace the history of Frederique Constant, showcase its plentiful milestones over the course of three-plus decades, and introduce you to the standout models in the current Frederique Constant collection. 1988: The Foundations When Dutch entrepreneur Peter Stas and his wife Aletta Stas-Bax set out to establish the Swiss watch manufacturer Frederique Constant in 1988, they were rolling the dice on a business plan that was anything but a sure thing. The Quartz Crisis that had ravaged the traditional Swiss watch industry since the 1970s was still ongoing and the return of the luxury mechanical watch to prominence and collectibility had yet to ramp up in a major way. However, both the timing of the launch and the underserved niche that it targeted - affordable, elegant watches with Swiss mechanical movements for enthusiasts with relatively modest budgets - proved to be wise, as evidenced by the company still going strong in its 35th year, with an impressive string of milestones under its belt, which we’ll touch on below. Frederique Constant is today one of the largest Swiss watchmaking firms; the company doesn't disclose production numbers, but Peter Stas stated in 2019 that the goal was to increase capacity fr...
Worn & Wound
Longines Returns to the Flagship and Adds a Moonphase
As watch names go, I’ve always thought “Flagship” was a pretty good one. Every brand, I think, strives to have a watch they can comfortably refer to as a flagship model, and Longines, beginning in the late 1950s, went ahead and took a clever shortcut by naming their line of elegant dress watches the Flagship. It makes a lot of sense if you step back and think about it. A brand’s flagship model should be something that defines them – the type of watch that you conjure in your mind’s eye when you think about the brand. Longines of course has a heritage with a ton of variety, making watches in every conceivable genre over the years, but I think it’s fair to say a watch with a certain casual elegance and is really their sweet spot, and the Flagship Heritage models (first introduced in 2017) do a great job of reminding us of what the brand has always excelled at. For their latest release, they’ve returned to the Flagship Heritage concept with three new watches that build on the previous executions, this time with a classic complication included. The original Flagship Heritage releases of six years ago were lessons in classic understatement – watches that were well considered, beautiful, and completely competent, but not flashy, attention seeking, or attempting to jump on any particular trend. The new Flagship Heritage models are very much made with that same sensibility, but include a moonphase complication, further tying them to watches they’re based on f...
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4 of The Best Rolexes Money Can Buy.
Worn & Wound
Behind-the-Scenes with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Anniversary Model
When the Worn & Wound team was asked to create a video production for the new Citizen 50th Anniversary Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer, we were completely stoked as we were such big fans of the original. Our vision aligned with Citizen on this project making for a solid collaboration for this fun revival. One of our favorite aspects of the shoot was demonstrating the watch on both a male and female wrist. Our female model certainly rocked the Tsuno Chrono with style and grace! If you’re not familiar with the origin, this piece was inspired by the original Citizen Bullhead from 1973, the uncommon chronograph features a 45mm two-tone stainless steel case secured by a sleek brown leather strap. Take a look at our behind the scenes video below to see how our amazing team put together this big launch. When the Worn & Wound team was asked to create a video production for the new Citizen 50th Anniversary Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer, we were completely stoked as we were such big fans of the original. Our vision aligned with Citizen on this project making for a solid collaboration for this fun revival. One of our favorite aspects of the shoot was demonstrating the watch on both a male and female wrist. Our female model certainly rocked the Tsuno Chrono with style and grace! If you’re not familiar with the origin, this piece was inspired by the original Citizen Bullhead from 1973, the uncommon chronograph features a 45mm two-tone stainless steel case secured by a sleek brown leath...
Time+Tide
Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear
With all of the streaming platforms at our disposal, there is a fair bit of comfort-food garbage shows for us all to guiltily binge. But, when people ask me what is a good show, a genuinely good show, to watch, FX on Hulu’s The Bear is definitely at the top of the list. For many … ContinuedThe post Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf, Now In White Hot Ceramic
Announcing the new and summer-ready Zodiac Super Sea Wolf models in white ceramic. Check out photos, pricing, color options, and more!
Time+Tide
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 Dakar introduces a new material to watchmaking
There’s an old adage in motorsport that to finish first, first you have to finish. In no event is that truer than the Dakar Rally - a gruelling drive through desert dunes and scorching heat. An average of 62% participants don’t make it to the end of the rally, with amateurs and professionals alike succumbing … ContinuedThe post The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 Dakar introduces a new material to watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Citizen 'Fujitsubo' Is Back in Black Super Titanium
The classic-styled diver swims against the current of the rest of Citizen's lineup, but sometimes that's exactly what's needed.
Video
The Bulova Sinatra is as classic as old blue eyes himself
![[VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/05/SeikoPresageSharpEdge_SPB415_3.webp)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417
Seiko expanded their popular Sharp Edge family earlier this year with the release of an open heart design in the reference SPB415 and SPB417. The Sharp Edge is a series we’ve been curious about since it was first introduced in 2020, and this latest release has finally given us a chance to go hands-on. Our full review on this watch (from our Ed Jelley) is coming soon, but we took the opportunity to get a quick first reaction when the watch landed in our office, and it wasn’t without a few surprises. Chief among them is that dial texture, which hits very differently than the press images. Open heart dials are a bit polarizing, but Seiko takes an interesting approach here with the design of the section over the aperture. It feels elevated somehow. The dial is downright perplexing, taking on a different personality at varying angles and lighting situations. But in use, the case itself presents what might be the most compelling feature here, with large geometric surfaces and a mixture of finishes breathing life into the ergonomic profile. How that stands up to further scrutiny remains to be seen. This watch may not have fully won me over on the open heart concept, but it has made me quite keen on the Sharp Edge collection as a whole. Stay tuned for the full review coming later this week to for Ed’s feelings. Seiko. The post [VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Collaborates with the Alpine F1 Team for a New Take on the BR 05 Chronograph
The latest in the ever expanding lineup of the Bell & Ross BR 05 collection, their popular integrated bracelet sports watch, is a new chronograph reference featuring the colors of the Alpine F1 team, a Bell & Ross partner since 2016, when the team operated under the Renault banner. This is a follow up to a trio of 2021 releases marking the inaugural year of Alpine’s involvement on the F1 circuit, a set of chronographs that still make a lot of sense given the motorsport connection. The new watch builds on the aesthetic established by those that have come before it, combining the distinctive Alpine colorway with an integrated bracelet platform that has proven to be surprisingly durable and adaptable since it was launched in 2020. The phrase that comes up over and over again in Bell & Ross marketing materials for the BR 05 is “sport chic,” and we have to admit, it fits the bill. These are not pure sports or tool watches in the sense that we’ve always understood them. They’re made, primarily, to look nice. They have well executed integrated bracelets, eye-catching finishing with dramatic transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and an overall slender appearance. That’s the “chic.” The “sport” comes in the form of the watch’s specs, which put it on equal footing with its more tool watch focused companions in the Bell & Ross collection. The case and bracelet are made from stainless steel, water resistance is rated to 100 meters with a screw down c...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
CWC Watch Review: The Mellor 72
A quick hands-on look at the vintage-correct CWC Mellor 72. Check out the review for specs, pricing, photos, and more.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Celebrating The AP Royal Oak Offshore's Anniversary With Some Music And A Bit Of 37mm-Sized Bling
AP goes from tasting the rainbow to dishing out a healthy dose of salmon and a few other options in between.
Worn & Wound
Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time
Itay Noy, the Israeli watchmaker known for creative and whimsical calendar complications that take a philosophical view to the concept of time, is back with his latest creation, the Seven-Day Cycle. Announced just days ago and officially launching later this week at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, the Seven-Day Cycle is inspired by the idea of looking at the passing of time on a weekly, as opposed to daily, scale. The centerpiece of the collection is the “Rest Day” watch. Rather than focusing on a daily progression of time, the watch seeks to visualize a weekly cycle. The day is indicated via skeletonized text around the dial’s perimeter, but instead of the day of the week, Itay Noy has given the days numerical values (first day, second day, third day, and so forth). The seventh day (by default) is marked as the “rest day” at the 12:00 position. Itay Noy notes that different religious traditions observe different rest days, so the rest day on the dial can be customized to the owner’s preferences. Dials are available in blue or white for this reference. The Seven-Day Cycle watch is also available in versions that name the days of the week in a more traditional way. The format, though, is largely the same, with skeletonized apertures spelling out the days of the week that are highlighted day by day as the week progresses. The blue and white dials seen in this version of the watch have dividing lines that should aid a bit in legibility, but all watches in the ...
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