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A New Collection of King Seikos Make their Debut Just in Time for a Big Seiko Anniversary Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Feb 13, 2023

A New Collection of King Seikos Make their Debut Just in Time for a Big Seiko Anniversary

We’ve already seen a flurry of activity from Seiko and Grand Seiko in 2023 to celebrate the 110th anniversary of the first wristwatch to bear the Seiko name. In what might be the most exciting anniversary release of this young year, Seiko has added a quartet of new watches to their recently relaunched King Seiko line. King Seiko began to reemerge back in 2020 as part of the brand’s big 140th anniversary celebration with a recreation of the historic KSK, featuring many of the premium touches we normally associate with higher tier Seiko and Grand Seiko releases. A collection of new, vintage inspired designs appeared last year, and that basically brings us to today. You’d be forgiven for forgetting about the new King Seikos given the comparatively infrequent releases, but they’re the type of watches that always get collectors excited for their attention to small, historical details and overall bang for buck. The new batch of King Seikos is without a doubt the most compelling collection yet, and will hopefully serve as a building block for more regular releases in the future.  We’ll start with the SPB365, which keeps the same 37mm case as last year’s releases, but adds a special dial design featuring a hexagon motif. This design, known as the “Kikkoumon,” is meant to symbolize a tortoise shell, an animal that represents longevity in Japanese culture. The symbol is frequently used in samurai armor, as well. It’s also a subtle nod to the origins of King Seiko,...

VIDEO: 4 of the biggest Grand Seikos released at Baselworld 2017 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s released Apr 11, 2017

VIDEO: 4 of the biggest Grand Seikos released at Baselworld 2017

Grand Seiko had big news at Baselworld 2017 – and not just the epically proportioned (and named) Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s watch. No, the really big news was that for the first time since 1960, Grand Seiko would stand apart as its own brand. It was the logical next step for Japan’s premier watch brand, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 4 of the biggest Grand Seikos released at Baselworld 2017 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: A Beautiful Vintage Zodiac, a Pair of Affordable Seikos, and an Uncommon Seth Thomas Stingray Chronograph Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko lines Nov 17, 2023

eBay Finds: A Beautiful Vintage Zodiac, a Pair of Affordable Seikos, and an Uncommon Seth Thomas Stingray Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage 1970s Zodiac Automatic Day-Date w/ Mesh Zodiac Band  Zodiac is most well known to vintage watch collectors for their incredible Sea Wolf divers, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this early 1970’s sporty dress watch which has loads of vintage style. The silver dial has applied block steel markers, stick hands and a day date window at 3 o’clock that is opposite of the Zodiac script which gives the dial a nice balance. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and original finish, and the watch has the original signed crown to boot. A nice touch is that this gem comes on the original Zodiac signed mesh bracelet made by JB Champion. Really nice looking and subtly blingy piece.  View auction here Seiko 5 Vintage 5126-8110  Next up is a great looking vintage Seiko 5 from 1968. This model 5126-8110 has a little bit of everything. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and you can tell it is a distant relative of the Grammar of Design school of aesthetics from the King and Grand Seiko lines. The charcoal dial is super clean, with lume filled, applied steel markers and the usual day/date window at 3 o’clock. To me, the best part of this one i...

Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44 Time+Tide
Seiko s Feb 4, 2023

Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44

In the internet age it’s become almost impossible to find a real bargain. People who don’t know what they have, can easily find out an item’s value with a quick search, and then throw their ads online with a firm price. On one hand, it’s hard to be angry about sellers getting fair value for … ContinuedThe post Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

I bought four of my friends Seikos in 2019 – here’s how much they’re worth now Time+Tide
Seiko s Nov 3, 2022

I bought four of my friends Seikos in 2019 – here’s how much they’re worth now

I’ll admit that 2019 was a fantastic time for me personally. Not only was I blissfully unaware of the oncoming pandemic, but it was also the first time I was earning an expendable income. It may have only been minimum wage, but I decided that it was time to reimburse some of my close friends … ContinuedThe post I bought four of my friends Seikos in 2019 – here’s how much they’re worth now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 6 Seikos you need to know from Basel 2019  Time+Tide
Seiko s you need Mar 23, 2019

LIST: 6 Seikos you need to know from Basel 2019 

You can get a pretty good sense of the overarching themes of Baselworld by listening to the chatter in the halls, press centre and even the sausage cart outside. And, along with smaller crowd sizes and uncertain futures, one of the main conversational themes was the size of brand collections. In press conferences, words like … ContinuedThe post LIST: 6 Seikos you need to know from Basel 2019  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Quartz” Is No Longer A Dirty Word — All Is Forgiven, And It’s Time To Embrace The Battery Or The Solar Cell Fratello
Seiko set something Yesterday

“Quartz” Is No Longer A Dirty Word — All Is Forgiven, And It’s Time To Embrace The Battery Or The Solar Cell

When something happened way over half a century ago, it is now time to forgive and embrace. Not to forgive and forget, mind you, but forgive and embrace. With the introduction of the Astron in 1969, Seiko set something in motion that shook the traditional Swiss watch industry to its core. Its existence was in […] Visit “Quartz” Is No Longer A Dirty Word — All Is Forgiven, And It’s Time To Embrace The Battery Or The Solar Cell to read the full article.

Watches & Wonders: Credor Debuts on the World Stage with Two New Goldfeathers and a New Take on the Genta-Designed Locomotive Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko was once Seiko’s best-kept Apr 15, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Credor Debuts on the World Stage with Two New Goldfeathers and a New Take on the Genta-Designed Locomotive

If Grand Seiko was once Seiko’s best-kept secret, as it was for decades, Credor was even more enigmatic. Once positioned above Grand Seiko and crafted exclusively from precious metals, it remains rare outside of Japan to this day.  That changes now when Credor comes out from under its Seiko shadow to exhibit at Watches & Wonders for the first time with three novelties: two takes on the Goldfeather and a brighter, breezier dial on the Locomotive, one of Credor’s most significant watches - though in the 1970s you would have likely never heard of it.  Credor Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition GBBY967  The Seiko Goldfeather was hailed as a technological achievement when it was released in 1960 (still holding Seiko’s thinnest three-hand movement). Credor resurrected the Goldfeather name in 2023 with the same pursuit of mechanical thinness, plus beautifully detailed lacquer and enamel dials.  On the new GBBY967, the dial’s urushi finish is lacquered and polished dozens of times, resulting in a stunningly smooth dark blue gradient that turns into black around the edges, as if peering into the ocean depths. The dial’s baton indices and the Credor and Goldfeather logos are hand-applied with platinum powder in the taka maki-e style: a lacquer art that produces a three-dimensional effect. The ultra-thin (just 1.98mm!) Caliber 6890 hand-wind movement underpins this special Goldfeather, which is limited to just 25 pieces and at $47,000 each.  Credor Goldfe...

Pinion Brings Back The Pure In A New 38mm Case Fratello
Seiko Apr 13, 2026

Pinion Brings Back The Pure In A New 38mm Case

British independent brand Pinion revives one of its earliest designs for a modern audience. Founded in 2013, Pinion launched the Pure the following year. That period also marked my renewed interest in watches after wearing a titanium Seiko for 15 years. I still own that Seiko today. Back in 2014, watch design looked very different. […] Visit Pinion Brings Back The Pure In A New 38mm Case to read the full article.

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition GBBY967 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Apr 1, 2026

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition GBBY967

Although Grand Seiko is now firmly established on the international watch scene, Credor is still something of a niche brand. Founded in 1974 as the high-end division of Seiko Corporation, with a focus on refined, ultra-thin dress watches decorated with artisanal techniques, Credor was originally available only in Japan until the release of the Locomotive […]

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition GBCF997 Monochrome
Seiko s high-end brand created Apr 1, 2026

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition GBCF997

Founded in 1974, Credor is Seiko’s high-end brand created to showcase Japanese haute horlogerie, artistic finishing and ultra-thin watchmaking. Originally exclusive to Japan, Credor began its international expansion in 2024 with the launch of the Locomotive model, a watch originally designed by Genta, and will consolidate its position as it will soon be exhibited at […]

Doxa Introduces the SUB 200 II Diver Worn & Wound
Seiko Mar 25, 2026

Doxa Introduces the SUB 200 II Diver

Since its launch in 2019, the Doxa SUB 200 has been one of my favorite value oriented dive watches to recommend. When it debuted, it was under $1,000 and really stood out in a crowd of vintage inspired divers. It was a particularly compelling option for enthusiasts who were after something affordable and loaded with a bit of history and was definitely not a Seiko. They were also getting that vintage appropriate sizing right before the pendulum swung all the way back toward watches under 40mm – the SUB 200 measures 42mm but wears significantly smaller thanks to the short lug profile. It was and is a great wearing, classically styled dive watch from a truly important dive watch brand.  Doxa has just refreshed the SUB 200 and the watch that was revealed this week reflects a lot of what’s going on the industry at the moment, while also appearing to serve as a worthy heir (and complement) to the existing SUB 200. The new SUB 200 II sees Doxa making some unexpected refinements to the case and also offering the watch in a new suite of colorways and a novel case treatment. Taken together, it’s a significantly more contemporary execution of something we’ve all come to associate with pure vintage nostalgia.  We’ll start with the case, which now measures 44mm in diameter. I did a bit of a double take when I saw that particular spec – we’re deep in the era of brands downsizing their iconic sports watches to accommodate the current appetite for sleeker, small-to-medium ...

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grand Seiko Mar 9, 2026

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026

Each year I find it surprisingly difficult to crystalise what I want to see from Watches & Wonders – perhaps I find it hard to hope for things I know will never come. Sometimes dreams aren’t logistically possible. For example, a compact Spring Drive chronograph probably isn’t reasonable given Grand Seiko already has its hands full scaling production of another new Spring Drive movement. At other times, imagination is bound by brand strategy: Cartier could easily steal the show with a quartz Crash Must priced along the same lines as a Tank Must – but never will. But I believe that the following watches, which I’d like to see from Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko and Credor, and Tudor are plausible enough to hope for. The following images were created without the use of generative AI. Patek Philippe In 2023, Patek Philippe launched the ref. 5316/50P, a minute repeating tourbillon with retrograde perpetual calendar and smoked sapphire dial. It remains among the brand’s best complicated offerings, other than the ref. 6301p, at least in my view. Last year Patek Philippe followed up with the ref. 6159G, which featured a smoked sapphire dial and the same perpetual calendar on a more pedestrian base movement. But if there is one reference more deserving of the smoked sapphire treatment than any other, it is the ref. 5236p in-line perpetual calendar, as imagined below in platinum. In 2021, Patek Philippe revived the historic in-line perpetual calendar, which is strongly asso...

In-Depth: Orient Star’s Smart Silicon Escape Wheel SJX Watches
Seiko Epson’s massive industrial base Feb 26, 2026

In-Depth: Orient Star’s Smart Silicon Escape Wheel

While silicon mechanical movement components have swept across Switzerland, adoption has been slow within the Japanese watch industry, stymied by Swiss patents and professed concerns over the material’s durability. To this day, it remains the unlikely domain of Orient Star, a small brand with priority access to Seiko Epson’s massive industrial base. This positions Orient Star to capitalise on consumer demand for increasingly long power reserves, without sacrificing performance. Thanks to an ultralight and geometrically efficient escape wheel with a patented design, Orient Star is able to deliver a 70-hour power reserve without resorting the same counter-productive trade-offs to balance energy made by some Swiss peers – here’s how it was done. A silicon wafer of escape wheels. Image – Seiko Epson The quest for longer power reserves Recent consumer demand for longer power reserves has sent the industry’s engineers scrambling for ways to increase the autonomy of existing movement platforms. A movement’s power reserve is dictated by the length of the mainspring, which unwinds at a constant rate. That is why using a chronograph doesn’t cause a watch to run down faster – usually. Of course, you need to find somewhere to fit that extra length of mainspring while maintaining the movement’s dimensions, such as by thinning out the barrel walls, narrowing the inner barrel arbour radius, or, reducing the thickness of the mainspring. However, while decreasing the ma...

Introducing – The Orient Star 75th Anniversary M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition F6 Date 200m Monochrome
Grand Seiko Feb 19, 2026

Introducing – The Orient Star 75th Anniversary M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition F6 Date 200m

Using the analogy of Grand Seiko and Seiko, Orient Star is the premium division of Orient watches (both part of Seiko Epson since 2017). Established in 1951, Orient Star produces more refined watches featuring complications and a characteristic Japanese balance of quality and value. Celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star reimagines the design of its […]

First Look – The New Yema Wristmaster Slim Small Seconds, Including a Surpising Camo Version Monochrome
Seiko until Feb 19, 2026

First Look – The New Yema Wristmaster Slim Small Seconds, Including a Surpising Camo Version

Founded in 1948 by Henry Belmont, Yema was France’s top producer and exporter by the 1960s. Renowned for legendary models such as the Superman, which appealed to professional and amateur divers alike, Yema went the way of many other mechanical watch brands during the quartz crisis and changed hands, including a stint with Seiko, until a French […]

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Porcelain Dial GCBY991 Monochrome
Seiko Group was founded Jan 8, 2026

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Porcelain Dial GCBY991

Credor, a high-end division of the Seiko Group, was founded in 1974 with a focus on refined, ultra-thin timepieces that emphasise artistic and artisanal techniques. Originally catering to the Japanese domestic market, Credor has begun to expand internationally only recently (mostly with the Locomotive, based on a Genta design) and will make its debut at […]

Year in Review: Watch of the Year 2025 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Dec 31, 2025

Year in Review: Watch of the Year 2025

Our annual Watch of the Year post is here, and as always it’s a celebration of the diversity and strength of the enthusiast community. There’s a little of everything represented here, from the platonic idea of the Seiko diver, to highly experimental and ultra-modern, to emerging microbrands offering incredible value. But it’s not just about the watches themselves – every year has individual watches that are successful in the ways that get them onto lists like these. It’s the way our team assesses them, and gets to the heart of what makes a watch great, or interesting, or challenging.  We hope you enjoy our roundup of our team’s favorite watches of 2025. Let us know yours in the comments below, and Happy New Year!  Christoph McNeill  For my Watch of the Year this year, I of course went with a Seiko. I know, no surprise there, but consistency is a good thing right? What can I say, I absolutely love Seiko. And I’m not just a homer, they really do put out killer stuff year after year. I nearly picked one of the amazing and beautiful Grand Seikos (the SLGW007 ‘birch’ dial), but I’ve written about the Grand Seikos a lot, and as stunning as they are, I’m a dive watch guy at heart and there is one Seiko diver that really blew me away this year. I’m talking about the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 Limited Edition “Shinkai” diver. For brevity’s sake I’ll just refer to it as the Shinkai from here on out. The Shinkai diver is modeled after the OG ...

Year in Review: the Best Travel Watches of 2025 Worn & Wound
Seiko NH34 have made including Dec 24, 2025

Year in Review: the Best Travel Watches of 2025

Travel watches have been on the absolute rise in recent years. Where dive watches were once the default option for a first sports watch, GMTs, dual times, and world timers have been making a credible play for wrist time with enthusiasts of all strata. There are practical reasons for this - movements like the Miyota 9075 and Seiko NH34 have made including a GMT complication in a watch more affordable than ever - but I think practical reasons only scratch the surface of this precipitous rise. To tell the whole story, you have to look for the romantic. There’s an inherent appeal in travel watches. They’re optimistic and remind us to stay interested in the world even when we’re stuck at home, or work, or in the myopia of day-to-day life, when the little things around us stop us from looking further. I think this appeal was only reinforced by a mandatory two-year stay inside, at home, and I don’t think it’s by chance that our collective release back into the world post-COVID coincided with the rise of the travel watch. I mean, sure, in a world where our phones automatically adjust to new time zones, and most people’s preferred travel watch is an Apple Watch, mechanical travel watches (or, really, analog - there are some pretty stellar quartz offerings to be had, you don’t need to look further than the Timex Q Continental GMT for evidence of that) may be more talismanic than necessary, but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. So, with all that ...

Best of 2025: Value Propositions Below US$10,000 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko moved up beyond Dec 22, 2025

Best of 2025: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

It was a mixed year for affordable watches, led by segment stalwart Tudor. While appealing offerings from brands like Grand Seiko moved up beyond the US$10,000 mark, the gap was filled by a slate of interesting releases from so-called micro-brands. Here is a selection of affordable releases under US$10,000 that stood out this year. Tudor Ranger 36 - SJX I’m a fan of Tudor – I own several – because its watches are well made and priced even better. But the brand is increasingly appealing because of its gradual evolution towards enthusiast-friendly designs. The Ranger 36 illustrates that. The original Ranger was a little bit too large for this vintage-inspired design. Tudor doubtlessly received feedback to that effect. It took the brand a while, but now the 36 mm version is pretty much spot-on. The compact size fits the design well and the watch also feels good on the wrist. And because the case and bracelet are both entirely brushed, the Ranger 36 also has a low-key look that makes it a practical watch in almost any situation. The “dune white” dial is also a nice touch; it’s a nod to the “albino” dials found on some vintage sports watches (from Rolex rather than Tudor, but that’s a distinction without a difference for most of the brands’ histories). And importantly, the Ranger 36 is the most affordable Tudor with an in-house movement. It’s a solid entry into Tudor’s world of sports watches with high-spec movements. As an aside, Tudor clearly excels ...

Orion Watches Founder Nick Harris on Growing His Brand Through Adversity Worn & Wound
Seiko modder Dec 15, 2025

Orion Watches Founder Nick Harris on Growing His Brand Through Adversity

I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that most of you reading this right now won’t know the name Nick Harris. Don’t worry, I’m not calling anyone out; if you weren’t a dedicated Seiko modder on the right forums at the right times, it’s not a name you’re likely to have come across. Nick, despite being an accomplished watchmaker and avid enthusiast, just isn’t as well-known as the brand he created, Orion Watches. It’s not a huge surprise. As enthusiasts, we tend to have a better memory for brands and watches than we do for people (how many of us have pulled some variation of the classic, “I can’t remember his name, but he had that great vintage Sub”), and that tendency easily extends to brands, even small ones. It’s easy to forget that many of the brands we talk about on Worn & Wound, and so many of the watchmakers that get us excited, aren’t really “brands” in the typical sense. Many of our favorite brands aren’t machines operating with marketing departments, state-of-the-art production facilities, and overflowing C-Suites. What we broadly call “brands’ are usually the result of the passionate work of one, or maybe two, dedicated creators, their brand names and logos serving more as a personal maker’s mark than as an identifier for a sprawling and impersonal corporate structure. The consequence here is that it can be easy to conflate these small one-man shops with their more established brethren. That can make it particularly diffi...