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The Vertical Collection: Three essential, most important watches from Chopard
It has been a while since we last added to our Vertical Collection series. Here is our fourth in the series - a favourite of ours: Chopard.
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Quill & Pad
Yes, You Must Declare Your Watches: Arnold Schwarzenegger held at Munich airport and Pays Taxes and Fine for Undeclared Audemars Piguet Watch for Charity
Arnold Schwarzenegger recently flew into Munich Airport en route to his native Austria with a Audemars Piguet watch that he planned to auction at a charity gala for organized by his climate foundation. However, he didn’t declare the watch to customs officials - ouch!
Time+Tide
Hamilton expands their most popular field range with additional Khaki Pilot Aviation references
Simplify, and add better leather straps seemed to be the brief at Hamilton.The post Hamilton expands their most popular field range with additional Khaki Pilot Aviation references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Industry News – Richemont Reports Sales up by 8% For Third Quarter, Jewellery Taking the Lead over Watches
Switzerland-based luxury conglomerate Richemont Group has just issued its trading update for the nine months ended 31 December 2023. The group, which includes brands such as Cartier, IWC, JLC and Vacheron, reports sales up by 8% at constant exchange rates and by 4% at actual exchange rates to EUR 5.6 billion for the last quarter […]
Time+Tide
Time+Tide 10 brought together friends, family, and founders
There are few better ways to celebrate a milestone than with the people that helped you get to that point. With more than 100 people crowding into our Melbourne Watch Discovery Studio, Andrew and Marcus took us through the years of Time+Tide. From the very first video the duo filmed together, to the chocolate-dipped Panerai … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide 10 brought together friends, family, and founders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Zenith’s First New Release of the Year is a Pair of Blue Dialed Boutique Editions from their Pilot Collection
After a period of relative quiet in the watch industry over the holidays, as we head into mid-January it’s clear that we are not being fully launched into New Release Season, with news coming across our desks about watch releases from some of our favorite brands. Some we can share now, and some will have to wait, but it’s clear whatever respite we had between Thanksgiving and New Years is, well, completely over. First out of the gate among the big Swiss luxury brands is Zenith, with news about an addition to their Pilot collection, which was their big launch in 2023. The Pilot collection took us by surprise last year. After several years of focusing on the Defy and Chronomaster lines, it felt like a left turn of sorts. But Zenith is rightfully incredibly proud of the Pilot and the heritage it represents. Zenith trademarked “Pilot” in 1904, and is famously the only watchmaker who can use the word solo on a watch dial. The watches we saw last year represented a new twist on a format we know well. They aren’t regurgitations of a historic reference, but feel like a modern realization of an aviation themed watch with contemporary proportions and materials. The new boutique editions seen here take the Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback and add blue dials, offering an alternative to the jet black seen on last year’s collection. According to Zenith, the shade of blue seen on these dials is meant to evoke the night sky as seen by a pilot, but blue is a commo...
Monochrome
Hands-on – All About the new Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8
Last Tuesday (of course), Omega presented its latest Speedmaster model, the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8. As an updated version of an existing model, the watch felt highly familiar at first sight. Presented in 2018 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the mission that first observed the other side of our satellite […]
Worn & Wound
Special Clock Highlight: Seiko Watch Dial Wall Clock
Welcome to the latest Chronicle! Here at the Windup Watch Shop, we know as well as anyone that time-telling doesn’t stop with wristwatches, and today’s piece is part of a larger series covering clocks and other non-watch timing instruments. Somewhat overlooked and underappreciated, wall clocks are far more than simple background pieces; they are functional decor with the ability to tie a space together while adding a touch of personalization. Today’s spotlight is on a special Seiko that is at once familiar and refreshing. Get your command hooks and hammer and nails ready, and let’s take a closer look. Welcome to the latest Chronicle! Here at the Windup Watch Shop, we know as well as anyone that time-telling doesn’t stop with wristwatches, and today’s piece is part of a larger series covering clocks and other non-watch timing instruments. Somewhat overlooked and underappreciated, wall clocks are far more than simple background pieces; they are functional decor with the ability to tie a space together while adding a touch of personalization. Today’s spotlight is on a special Seiko that is at once familiar and refreshing. Get your command hooks and hammer and nails ready, and let’s take a closer look. The post Special Clock Highlight: Seiko Watch Dial Wall Clock appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Value Proposition – The New Time-and-Date Dan Henry 1972 Maverick Automatic
Behind the Dan Henry Watches brand is a man known as… Dan Henry. An avid collector with great taste in vintage watches, he has used some of his favourite models to create a collection of timepieces inspired by the past but with an excellent price/quality ratio. Following a couple of cool automatic dive watches – […]
Time+Tide
2024 Omega Speedmaster Apollo 8 Dark Side of the Moon – what is actually new?
Is a little titanium rocket all there is to add to the new DSOTM?The post 2024 Omega Speedmaster Apollo 8 Dark Side of the Moon – what is actually new? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon
It’s proving to be a bumper crop year for dragon-themed watches, and brands from all walks of life are deploying their creativity to create something inspiring for the upcoming Year of the Dragon. While it’s only natural to associate Roger Dubuis‘ Excalibur collection with the wonderfully over-the-top Arthurian-inspired Knights of the Round Table editions, it […]
Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces a New Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 with a More Detailed Lunar Surface Inspired Dial and a Saturn V Seconds Hand
A January launch of a new Speedmaster (on a Tuesday, of course) has become a bit of a tradition for Omega over these past few years. Today, Omega has announced a new Dark Side of the Moon Speedmaster, which at first glance (and maybe a second and third glance) will look a whole lot like an earlier iteration of the popular ceramic version of the chronograph. The newest addition, though, has a few little updates that are likely to appeal to the most hardcore Speedmaster collectors. “Little” is the operative word here for at least one of them, which also might be the most technically impressive. The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 is a follow up to the first edition of this watch, which was released in 2018 to mark the 50th anniversary of the mission. That original Apollo 8 watch was an immediate hit. It combined a lot of the modern tech and materials of contemporary ceramic Speedmasters with the familiar and highly regarded manually wound movement that is so much a part of the Speedy’s DNA. The rendition of the lunar surface on the dial was also particularly well executed and impressive. The new Apollo 8 features an updated movement, Calibre 3869, which is analogous to Calibre 1869 used in the previous version. This new movement has been specced to match Calibre 3861, the manually wound caliber at the heart of the current Moonwatch. It’s a significant upgrade from the older movement, and has been fitted with a co-axial escapement and meets all the requir...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Updated Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8
The connection between Omega and space exploration isn’t to be demonstrated anymore. While born as a racing chronograph, the 1957 Speedmaster is now known by all as the official watch of astronauts, as the watch worn by Apollo 11 crew members… It’s nicknamed the Moonwatch for a reason. Yet, there’s more than this specific version […]
SJX Watches
Parmigiani’s Mastery Showcased in Dragon Chiming-Automaton Clock
Originally presented in 2012 to that Year of the Dragon – and reputedly priced at over US$3 million at the time – the Parmigiani Le Dragon et la Perle du Savoir has been restored just in time for this Year of the Dragon that soon begins in February 2024. Now renamed Tempus Fugit, the automaton made up of a dragon chasing a flaming pearl, a traditional motif in Chinese culture. Initial thoughts This exemplifies Parmigiani’s mastery of ultra-high-end automatons and clocks that were a key part of its offerings in the 1990s. During that period, only Parmigiani and Gerald Genta specialised in such extraordinary creations. Although this was produced in 2012, it certainly evokes the sculptural automaton clocks of that earlier period. Such extravagant automatons clocks are rare today – only Van Cleef & Arpels regularly creates such one-offs now – but are undeniably impressive. Like its peers, the dragon automaton combines goldsmithing, gem-setting, automata construction, and of course clockmaking, all techniques mastered by Parmigiani thanks to its restoration department, which was historically the best in Switzerland. Naturally, the brand’s affordable and relatively more ordinary wristwatch offerings don’t possess the same extravagant craft, but it is good to know the scope of the brand’s capabilities. The dragon chasing a pearl A familiar motif in Chinese folklore, the dragon chasing a flaming pearl represents the pursuit of wisdom, prosperity, or power. Here it ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Unexpected Delma 1924 Tourbillon, Marking the Brand’s 100th Anniversary
Delma has rightfully earned its recent reputation for producing highly capable, functional, and accessible dive watches. However, the brand’s history, tracing back to its establishment in 1924 by brothers Adolf and Albert Gilomen as A. & A. Gilomen S.A. in Lengnau and currently operating from the same Swiss town, reveals a broader range of offerings […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ06 Wandering Star
I always look forward to checking out a new release from Direnzo. There’s always more than meets the eye, and the DRZ06 Wandering Star is no exception. The watch is a marriage of the familiar and the unexpected. In this case, the ‘familiar’ is an evolution of Direnzo’s retro-futuristic design language, including a dish-shaped dial, bold colors, and organic-feeling markers cut into a sandwich dial. The ‘unexpected’ is the presence of a mystery dial. It’s now some years since I wrote about the originals and heyday of the Mystery Dial here, but it’s still a feature I’d like to see more of. I guess many watchmakers might be deterred from attempting this as it’s difficult to avoid the mystery being the interesting thing about a watch and therefore becoming little more than a gimmick. Perhaps the reason it has been implemented successfully as part of the DRZ06 Wandering Star is that we just have a mystery sub-dial for the running seconds, with a lone red dot slowly spinning around against the lumed backdrop. Last summer I spent some time with Direnzo’s previous release – a reworking of one of their earliest models. The case of the new DRZ06 is similar in shape to that of the DRZ02 Aerolite, but with some subtle changes that blend to give a different character. For starters, the brushed steel bezel is larger in every way. Despite the main watch case being a soft square shape, this strong bezel makes the watch feel far rounder. The Wandering Star still pull...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Accessible Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80 20th Anniversary Edition
I won’t hide the reality: finding a genuinely elegant watch at a fair price isn’t the easiest of tasks. Dress watches, while often free of any complications, are not the most represented timepieces within the portfolios of accessible brands. Naturally, there are some candidates to consider, but finding an affordable dive watch is far easier. In […]
Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve with Subtle Updates
Many in the watch community are predicting that 2024 will be year where we see a wider adoption of avant-garde and modern design as the pendulum continues to swing away from vintage inspired classicism. This is a good thing, and worth celebrating. But there will always be a market for elegant, classic designs. The kind that have been nailed down and perfect for decades, and define the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mentality. There isn’t a brand out there that is more in tune with this style of watchmaking than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Similar to Rolex, they iterate slowly, and don’t adhere to the (false) notion that buzzy new releases are required as part of an industry cycle. They just kind of do their thing, and it almost always results in a beautiful object. Their latest, the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, is familiar in many ways but has several small changes that make it even more refined. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra thin watches are a niche of a niche unto themselves. For years, even before the current Thinness Wars really took shape, JLC has been adept at getting the best possible performance from impossibly thin movements, and taking advantage of their diminutive dimensions by housing them in exceedingly well designed watches that take full advantage of their size. For the new Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, JLC’s Caliber 938 has been reworked slightly to increase the total power reserve to a healthy 70 hours without drastically changing the movement...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, with Green Enamel Dial for 2024
In 2012, Blancpain introduced the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, an extremely complex watch fusing the Chinese and Gregorian calendars, complete with a moon phase complication that coincided with the Year of the Dragon. Twelve years have passed, and the dragon is back in the limelight again. To mark this twelve-year cycle, Blancpain’s latest interpretation of […]
Time+Tide
How the humble honey bee helps keep Jaeger-LeCoultre’s high watchmaking buzzing
Can making honey also help you make super-high-end watches? JLC certainly seem to think so.The post How the humble honey bee helps keep Jaeger-LeCoultre’s high watchmaking buzzing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001
Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Blue Enamel Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon
Jaeger-LeCoultre‘s Master Thin collection is home to sophisticated, understated, ultra-thin dress watches ranging from time-and-date to moon phase models and more complex proposals like tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Offered with understated beige or sunray decorated dials, JLC introduced métiers d’art dials to the collection at the end of 2018. First appearing on the Master Ultra […]
Time+Tide
The many layers of the Constellar Origin
An intricate dial, compact case, manually wound movement, and some laser-engraved finesse - there's a lot to like here.The post The many layers of the Constellar Origin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Fly Fishing in Scotland with Al Peake of Twin Peakes
Having relocated to Deeside, Scotland, Colin Alexander Smith fulfilled a lifelong ambition of fly fishing on local rivers and fisheries. For some insights into fly fishing in Scotland, he talked to Alastair Peake who, with his twin brother Will, runs the aptly named Twin Peakes Fly Fishing.
Quill & Pad
Which Rolex Models Might Become Future Classics? Watchbox’s Tim Mosso and Mike Manjos Answer that Question with Analytics and Trends (Video) – Reprise
Which Rolex models will be most sought after by collectors in the future? That’s not a trick question. And Watchbox’s director of media Tim Mosso and global head of trading Mike Manjos are here to answer it for you in the second episode of Watchbox’s new video series “Around the Crown,” which is dedicated to future classics from the Rolex catalog.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Three Black-Dialed Gold Treasures From Patek Philippe, Akrivia, And A. Lange & Söhne – Reprise
When GaryG recently took a good look at the current state of his watch collection, he was surprised by the large proportion of dark-dialed pieces in the mix. He has enjoyed – and photographed – each of three of these watches a great deal, but it isn’t until recently that he pulled them together in one place for side-by-side shooting and direct comparison. The results (and the watches) are simply stunning.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: the Sopranos Turns 25, Rolling Stone Ranks the Best Sci-Fi, and the Best Gadgets from CES 2024 that You Can Buy Right Now
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com The Sopranos Turns 25 This week marked a major anniversary for Sopranos fans – it’s been 25 years since the show premiered on HBO, and quite literally changed television forever (mostly for the better, we’d argue). There’s been no shortage of retrospectives this week looking back on the show, its stars, and the many amazing TV moments we’ve all enjoyed over the course of 6 seasons and too many rewatches to count. But one of our favorite pieces this week was found in the New York Times, and focuses on the distinctive production design and real New Jersey locations used for filming. There was a level of authenticity that was always apparent in the The Sopranos that felt markedly different from other mafia stories told on the screen, and a huge part of that is the cast (made up largely of local NJ and NY actors with Italian ancestry) and the lived-in, familiar locations. Check out the story here. The 150 Greatest Science Fiction Films, According to Rolling Stone Whatever you think of the modern incarnation of Rolling Stone, you have to admit one thing: they have become experts at...
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon
Bell & Ross is a watch brand that is known for its aviation-inspired timepieces and the iconic square dash gauge case design. The latest addition to their collection is the BR 05 Artline Dragon, a limited edition model that features a dragon motif on the dial and the case. The dragon is a symbol of power, wisdom and luck in many cultures, and it is also a tribute to the Chinese New Year of the Dragon in 2024.
Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin celebrates Lunar New Year with the Blast Tourbillon Dragon
After getting their Freak on in 2023, UN go for a slightly more conventional approach to the Year of the Dragon.The post Ulysse Nardin celebrates Lunar New Year with the Blast Tourbillon Dragon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – Maturo Competition Cars Builds New Born Lancia 037 Rally Icons
Legends are created whenever something is achieved that was deemed impossible before that point in time. It happens through sheer determination, or the perfect coming together of all variable circumstances to allow someone, or something, to make a statement that lasts on for years, decades even. Throughout racing history, there are countless legendary events, drivers […]