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Testing A Master: Omega And Swiss Federal Institute Of Metrology Announce New Certification Process Revolution
Omega Dec 11, 2014

Testing A Master: Omega And Swiss Federal Institute Of Metrology Announce New Certification Process

A Swiss watch is great, but a Swiss Chronometer is even better; for many customers there is added appeal in a COSC-certified watch. No surprise that some of the largest Manufactures in Switzerland, also have incorporated the Chronometer certification for the majority of their collections. Omega thought it was time to step up the certification […]

The SJX Christmas Wishlist SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Dec 23, 2019

The SJX Christmas Wishlist

I rarely write “listicles” but the holidays are always a good excuse for one: a run through of the year’s wants. It’s a wish list of watches I desire, and in a handful of instance bought, and not about the most significant or notable watches (which will be published just before the year’s end). Surprisingly the list is a pretty short one, and heavier on affordable watches than top of the line ones. That’s perhaps reflective of both the state of the industry – often saturated and occasionally unimaginative – and the fact that I’ve seen quite a lot. That being said, sometimes it’s the simple and affordable that surprises, like the Tudor P01, or something from an expected corner, like the Chanel Monsieur Edition Noire. High hopes Even for a price-is-no-object list there are barely any must-haves. The list of candidates was long, but most were crossed out for one reason or another. That also in part reflects the fact that the more expensive a watch is, the higher the standards it should be held to. The Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, for instance, is exceptionally interesting and smartly conceived, in fact, it’s one of the year’s best watch in terms of mechanics, but the design is a bit of a let down. Even in a more affordable tier of complicated watches, the wants come with caveats. The Hermes L’Heure de la Lune is unconventional and poetic, typically Hermes in style. Though its face is elegant, the case profile is less so; it is a ...

Parmigiani’s Mastery Showcased in Dragon Chiming-Automaton Clock SJX Watches
Jan 16, 2024

Parmigiani’s Mastery Showcased in Dragon Chiming-Automaton Clock

Originally presented in 2012 to that Year of the Dragon – and reputedly priced at over US$3 million at the time – the Parmigiani Le Dragon et la Perle du Savoir has been restored just in time for this Year of the Dragon that soon begins in February 2024. Now renamed Tempus Fugit, the automaton made up of a dragon chasing a flaming pearl, a traditional motif in Chinese culture. Initial thoughts This exemplifies Parmigiani’s mastery of ultra-high-end automatons and clocks that were a key part of its offerings in the 1990s. During that period, only Parmigiani and Gerald Genta specialised in such extraordinary creations. Although this was produced in 2012, it certainly evokes the sculptural automaton clocks of that earlier period. Such extravagant automatons clocks are rare today – only Van Cleef & Arpels regularly creates such one-offs now – but are undeniably impressive. Like its peers, the dragon automaton combines goldsmithing, gem-setting, automata construction, and of course clockmaking, all techniques mastered by Parmigiani thanks to its restoration department, which was historically the best in Switzerland. Naturally, the brand’s affordable and relatively more ordinary wristwatch offerings don’t possess the same extravagant craft, but it is good to know the scope of the brand’s capabilities. The dragon chasing a pearl A familiar motif in Chinese folklore, the dragon chasing a flaming pearl represents the pursuit of wisdom, prosperity, or power. Here it ...

Urwerk AMC: This Atomic (Clock) Mechanical Control Is A 21st Century Version Of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Sympathique Clocks But Much, Much Better (Geiger Counter Not Included) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet s Sympathique Clocks But Mar 7, 2021

Urwerk AMC: This Atomic (Clock) Mechanical Control Is A 21st Century Version Of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Sympathique Clocks But Much, Much Better (Geiger Counter Not Included) – Reprise

Here’s a prediction by Ian Skellern: the relatively nondescript AMC movement Urwerk presented at the 2018 SIHH will not only become one of the horological highlights of the decade, but will take its place among history’s most significant timepieces ever. That’s a bold statement. Here Ian explains why he thinks AMC is so important.

Doubling down on the rainbow – the Franck Muller Double Mystery Time+Tide
Franck Muller Jun 10, 2019

Doubling down on the rainbow – the Franck Muller Double Mystery

Franck Muller’s tagline is “the master of complications”, and this watch delivers on that promise in dazzling style. This fully set Franck Muller Double Mystery from their Round collection (which goes to show that there’s more to the brand than Curvex cases) is a great example of working smart. The movement on show is the … ContinuedThe post Doubling down on the rainbow – the Franck Muller Double Mystery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This Isn’t Just Another Octo – This is Art for the Wrist Worn & Wound
Bulgari s Octo Finissimo line Sep 18, 2025

This Isn’t Just Another Octo – This is Art for the Wrist

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has become synonymous with its technical prowess and record-breaking, ultra-thin designs (and for good reason). The collection has notched a whopping ten world records in just over a decade. However, we’ve also seen a softer side to the Octo through Bulgari’s more artistic interpretations of the iconic design.  The most well-known are likely the sketch editions. As the name suggests, these models celebrate the original sketches of the design rendered by the brand’s Product Creation Executive Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Yet, these more playful and aesthetic-focused editions have also been molded through collaborations with a wide array of co-creators from architects like Kazuyo Sejima and Tadao Ando to conductors and composers like Lorenzo Viotti.  Among the Bulgari Octo mashups, the most striking have come from artists themselves. One of the earliest editions came back in 2015 with the Chinese artist Simon Ma. His collection of 13 piece unique watches explored the horse motif of the Chinese zodiac using traditional Chinese calligraphy techniques handpainted on the dial. Three years later, Bulgari enlisted the Japanese painter Hiroshi Senju to interpret a watch with his signature exploration of waterfalls. The resulting design employed mother of pearl on the dial to create a waterfall effect. Next, the Roman Maison took a more contemporary approach, tapping the Japanese artist Tatsuo Miyajima. This collaboration took a le...

Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Clocks Rock! But Should They Even Be In This Category? Quill & Pad
Oct 11, 2021

Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Clocks Rock! But Should They Even Be In This Category?

So what do we have here? A watch with an innovative escapement style, two minute repeaters, an ultra-thin timepiece, and two clocks: the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève has never seen such a wildly different bunch in one category – not even the Mechanical Exception category, which is kind of a fun free-for-all in terms of mechanical creativity. Join our panel's discussion right here.

Interview – Konstantin Chaykin on Making the World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch, and the new ThinKing Mystery Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Apr 2, 2026

Interview – Konstantin Chaykin on Making the World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch, and the new ThinKing Mystery

In 2024, indie watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin unveiled the ThinKing watch as a bold attempt to set a world record: an exceptionally thin mechanical wristwatch measuring just 1.65mm. Holding this watch in your hand is simply incredible – the extreme slenderness is astonishing, and the technical achievement behind it is truly impressive. Since then, he has […]

Introducing: Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Collection Hodinkee
May 20, 2026

Introducing: Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Collection

What We Know Awake is launching three new watches today, along with a new visual identity for the young brand. The three references—"Sunset," "Alba," and "Borealis"—take their names and color palettes from celestial phenomena: an ocean sunset, an incandescent dawn, and the Northern Lights, respectively. "Alba" The dials are the story here, and the story behind them is quite fascinating. The process begins in Hanoi, Vietnam, where master lacquerers apply multiple ultra-thin layers of Sơn Mài lacquer—derived from the sap of the Rhus Verniciflua tree—then meticulously polish each coat to build up the dial's color. Sunset gets pink, violet, and blue.  Alba gets red, yellow, and orange. Borealis gets green and yellow. Once the lacquer work is complete, the dials travel to Italy, where they're handed to the Renzetti family—one of the last workshops in Europe still practicing hand guilloché—who work them on traditional rose and straight-line engine lathes, entirely by hand, for approximately 15 hours per dial. Each groove is unique to the individual artisan and the individual piece. "Sunset" The hands and indices are constructed with a steel cap system finished in polished, brushed, and engraved textures, filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9. The result is a lume solution that's discreet in daylight but comes alive in the dark, casting a soft halo over the lacquer and guilloché beneath. All of this sits inside a new 38mm stainless steel case, a first for Awake. It fea...

First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Lahej Limited Edition Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Nov 19, 2025

First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Lahej Limited Edition

Attaining iconic status in the world of watchmaking is no easy feat. This, however, is what Bulgari has achieved in just ten years, with the bold contemporary Italian design and sophisticated Swiss mechanics of the Octo Finissimo lineup. Its impressive lineup turned the Roman Maison into a master of ultra-thin mechanical watchmaking, as the brand has […]

In-Depth – 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch? Monochrome
Bulgari Create Nov 7, 2025

In-Depth – 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch?

At this point in watchmaking history, we can say, without taking too many risks, that Bulgari has become the undisputed master of ultra-thin horology. Breaking one record after another, the Italian/Swiss manufacture has been at the forefront of creativity and ingenuity, and while we are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with […]