Hodinkee
Introducing: The Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6 (Live Pics, Pricing)
The second of a five-piece limited series that started with Rexhep Rexhepi, the watch is far more than just a GMT – it's a work of art.
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
Introducing – Frosted Silver and Copper Dials for the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase
Glashütte Original’s Senator collection is populated with classical watches that evoke the grand Saxon watchmaking traditions of the 19th century. A slight evolution of the somewhat august Senator range, a sub-collection known as the Senator Excellence, was released in tandem with the brand’s calibre 36 in 2016. The Panorama Date Moon Phase appeared in 2018, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Glashütte Original Reveals New "Frosted" Dials for Senator Excellence
German luxury watchmaker Glashütte Original has been on a streak of masterful moon-phase creations in recent years, releasing some absolutely exquisite dial colors in its PanoMaticLunar model (including the green-dial model I review here) and unveiling the first PanoLunarInverse model toward the end of 2024. Today, the brand continues shooting for the moon, in a visual and horological sense, with the launch of two new versions of its Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase family boasting two eye-catching - and historically inspired - new dial colors. Both of the watches’ dials - one in frosted silver, the other in frosted copper, achieved in a galvanic process - are created in homage to the rich mineral deposits once mined in the Ore Mountains, near the state of Saxony and the watchmaking town of Glashütte. Their finely grained surfaces, meant to evoke the thin layers of ice on the mountain rock, play host to the familiar and elegant details of the Senator Excellence family - including hand-applied, blued Roman numeral markers in gold and blued, polished poire hands complemented by a central seconds hand with the brand’s “double G” symbol as counterweight. The watches’ signature functions occupy carefully chosen spots on the dial without disrupting its overall clean, harmonious look. The large “Panorama” date display settles snugly in a double window at 4 o’clock, while the moon-phase elegantly balances it in the opposite corner above, its ...
SJX Watches
Ressence Complicates Things with the Type 7 GMT
We’ve said it before, but 2025 is a big year for anniversaries in the watch business, with brands like Breguet and Audemars Piguet celebrating 250 and 150 years, respectively. But it’s not just the big brands that have something to celebrate; this year also marks the 15th anniversary of Ressence, which has just launched its first proper complication, the Type 7 GMT. At launch, the Type 7 is available in Night Blue or Aquamarine, the latter being an 80-piece anniversary edition. It’s also the first Ressence to come equipped with a bracelet, enhancing its versatility. Initial thoughts Time flies when you’re having fun, which must be why I was shocked to realise Ressence is turning 15 years old this year. The Type 7 keeps the good times going with several of my favourite Ressence features, like the oil-filled dial chamber and the compression lock system for the keyless works, creating what is arguably the brand’s most wearable and versatile watch to-date. The wearability starts with the new grade 5 titanium case, which is just 41 mm by 14 mm. While not a small watch, it’s the smallest Ressence to feature the brand’s proprietary locking system for the winding and setting mechanism, which to-date has only been available on the much larger 46 mm Type 5 dive watch. This endows the Type 7 with 50 m of water resistance, which means you can take the watch pretty much anywhere. This versatility is enhanced by the matching grade 5 titanium bracelet; a first for the bra...
Quill & Pad
Tim Mosso visits the Amelia Island Concours d’Elegance: Classic Supercars and Vintage Cars in Abundance
The Amelia Island concours d’elegance – “The Amelia” – has been held annually in the Florida region of the same name since 1996. For Tim Mosso, the diversity and quality of the classic metal on display demands both respect and reflection; this is a rare pleasure.
Fratello
How The Black-Dial Zenith Chronomaster Original Changed My Collecting Perspective
When Zenith first introduced this black-dial version of the Chronomaster Original in September 2023, it felt like a déjà vu. At first glance, it immediately felt like a dial variant that the brand would have released in the early ’70s. We know that didn’t happen, but here we are, 50+ years later, with a dial […] Visit How The Black-Dial Zenith Chronomaster Original Changed My Collecting Perspective to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Contemplating Complications
Simply put, not all complications are created equal. In today’s episode of Fratello Talks, we discuss many of these horological elements adjacent to a watch’s most essential time-telling function. Nacho, Thomas, and Lex begin by defining terms before listing their favorite complications and ending up with some they don’t like so much. They also discuss the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Contemplating Complications to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator Lumint
The Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulators were designed to push the boundaries of expectation. They weren’t your standard fare, even for Brew, a brand known for creativity and out-of-the-circle designs. A rare combination of an uncommon regulator layout, a stopwatch complication, color, and texture, the Metric Chrono Regulators were a series of watches that said, “I’ve seen it all before, I want something new, and something fun.” Today, we’re excited to announce the follow-up to the first series, a singular model, the Metric Chrono Regulator Lumint. The post Introducing the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator Lumint appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Speake Marin Ripples Gold
The Ripples Collection was presented as Speake-Marin‘s vision of a luxury sports watch with an integrated design, blending the brand’s signature aesthetic with a modern case and a distinctive dial, standing apart with its unique visual identity and refined details. When Speake-Marin celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2022, it marked the occasion with a special […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Crash: The Ultimate Guide to the Oddball Icon
As the enduring popularity of pre-worn and “distressed” denim should prove, fashion sometimes embraces wear and tear, or at least the illusion of such, as a bold stylistic statement. The phenomenon can also occasionally be found, albeit perhaps less overtly, in the world of watches. Consider the fascinating case of the Cartier Crash, a watch whose wildly unconventional, “banged-up” shape has made it not just a curiosity but one of the world’s most collectible timepieces - a quirky icon from a watchmaker with no shortage of iconic designs to its credit. The Crash has been around, mostly floating along the periphery of the watch-industry mainstream, since the 1960s, in various iterations, and while it has never achieved the household-name popularity of Cartier watches like the Tank and Santos, it has also never really gone out of style, either. Here is a primer on the Cartier Crash, and perhaps even a little insight on how it has stayed relevant in the marketplace, nearly six decades after its debut. Photo: Bonhams Let’s start at the beginning, with one of the main sources of the Crash’s multigenerational appeal, its decidedly lurid and now-debunked origin story. As legend had it, the Crash’s curvy, bent case design was inspired by a fatal automobile accident: the owner of a Cartier Baignoire Allongé - an oval-cased watch, example above - was wearing it when he perished in a fiery car crash (hence the name) and the watch, once recovered from the wrecka...
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Urwerk UR-101 T-Rex Edition
As indicated by its name, the UR-101 was – together with its sister piece, the UR-102 – the watch that started it all at Urwerk. The foundation, the watch that defined a style, a display, and that made an impact on almost 30 years of unleashed creativity after. The inaugural UR-101 and 102 featured distinctive […]
Deployant
New: Urwerk UR-101 T-REX
Urwerk resurrected the UR-101 with another uber cool transformation of the original model with a textured skin, scaly armour of the T-REX.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Trilobe Une Folle Journée Rhodium-plated Editions in Blue, Green and Black
Trilobe is a young, independent watch brand founded by Gautier Massonneau in 2013. The brand debuted its first timepiece, Les Matinaux – French for The Morning Ones and a tribute to René Char’s poetry collection – in 2018. Distinguished by its unconventional time display, Les Matinaux introduced an original system developed by Jean-François Mojon of […]
Fratello
Exploring Evergreens: Thomas Goes Hands-On With The Original Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A
After spending time with the Rolex Submariner ref. 5508 and the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph, I get yet another chance to explore a personal grail watch today. Yes, life can be good when you have special access to some of the world’s finest watches. This time, I got to strap on a 1978 […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: Thomas Goes Hands-On With The Original Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Blancpain Journeys “In The Lost Land” in New Film: an Interview Featuring George R.R. Martin, Paul W.S. Anderson, and Milla Jovovich
More now than ever it seems, watch companies fight their way onto the big screen through influencer programs or partnership deals with film production companies. Sometimes the partnership feels natural and complements the film, though the savvy enthusiast can still spot a brand deal when it is played out in front of them. However, there are the rare occasions where a watch is chosen by the actor, the director, costume designer, or even the writer. Those instances are special as they better integrate into the final piece and add a bit of fun watch spotting for the enthusiast. I recently had the opportunity to join the Blancpain team in Santa Fe, NM for a special world premier screening of the new George R.R. Martin story directed by Paul W.S. Anderson, In The Lost Land. The film takes place in a dystopian reality and stars Milla Jovovich and Dave Bautista with the Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Chronographe Flyback taking center stage with a prominent feature as an ancient and coveted relic. Watching the movie, the casual enthusiast may be left with questions such as why they chose this particular watch, how did Blancpain work their way on set, and was it a real watch at all? Well, we had the opportunity to sit down for a roundtable interview with George R.R. Martin, Paul W.S. Anderson, and Milla Jovovich to try and answer these questions ourselves. Perhaps most interestingly, this partnership is one that reaches back quite a long time ago while the film was v...
Worn & Wound
Breitling Acquires Gallet
After several weeks of speculation, Breitling has made an official announcement that they have acquired Gallett, the Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots back to 1826. The news was first reported by Tony Traina and a small handful of other outlets back in February, but this is the first time Breitling has acknowledged the deal in a public way. Breitling had previously announced their acquisition of Universal Genéve in 2023, a move that immediately led many to wonder of Georges Kern, Breitling’s CEO, might be looking to make additional expansions to bolster his business. Now, with the Gallett acquisition, his plans and those of the Partners Group (the investment firm which has had a stake in Breitling since 2017) appear to be coming into focus. “This acquisition is a natural next step in Breitling’s expansion,” Kern said in a statement. “We are reviving Gallett under the umbrella of Breitling’s expertise and craftsmanship. Our vision is long-term – reviving Gallett as a strong brand in watchmaking, while honoring its legacy and innovation in chronographs.” Unlike watches in the upcoming Universal Genéve collection, it is expected that Gallett will be sold alongside Breitling in the brand’s boutiques and, presumably, other authorized channels. This will provide potential Breitling customers with a lower priced option and is something of a tacit admission that the asking price of a new Breitling has crept up to a level that some new customers might...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Citizen Promaster Land U822
Ushering in the latest generation of Citizen's Ana-Digi do-it-all sports watch.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Chronoswiss Pulse One, a Brand-New Sports Collection in Titanium
Founded in 1983 by Gerd R. Lang in München, Germany, Chronoswiss quickly became the main advocate of the regulator display – it was, in fact, the first brand to release a serially-produced regulator wristwatch in 1987. Since then, the brand has launched watches with such a display in practically every possible form, ranging from traditional […]
Worn & Wound
The Highly Anticipated M.A.D.2 is Here
The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.2 is finally here. This is, perhaps, the most inevitable release of the year. It’s like starting your series of space operas with “Episode IV,” you know that at some point V is coming (and, indeed, I-III, but we’ll save that conversation for another day). Following up one of the most discussed watches of the last few years is certainly no easy task, and the M.A.D.2 comes to market at a very different time than its predecessor, at least in terms of what’s desirable at the moment. At this point, we all know the story: Max Büsser, in an effort to make something for his friends and collaborators who could likely never afford the high priced watches they helped him create, created a small batch of watches with an inverted rotor and an unusual time telling apparatus read from the side of the case. The M.A.D1 became a viral hit in the watch community, spawned a bunch of variants, and an improved “S” model just last year. Along the way, the M.A.D.Editions project became a brand unto itself, generating around 20% of MB&F;’s total revenue in 2024. And in the three short years since the first M.A.D.Editions watches appeared, the appetite for avant-garde and experimental designs at approachable price points has increased dramatically. In other words, M.A.D.Editions is no longer the only game in town (but they’re still the only affordable way to get a little bit of that Max DNA in a watch without spending tens of thousands of dollars, or mor...
Deployant
New: ArtyA Purity Wavy HMS Mirror
Interesting new release from ArtyA featuring a claimed fully in-house caliber designed to be showcased in front of a full mirror on the dial side.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar
Thanks to the accomplished vintage design of its successful Millesime collection, Raymond Weil is emitting a stronger signal on the watchmaking radar. While the brand has been active since 1976, it really came to the fore with third-generation members of the founding Weil family and their winning bet on the Millesime. Determined to bring the […]
Fratello
From Scotland With Love: The Latest Artistic And Artisanal Watches From AnOrdain And Paulin
Charlotte Paulin is the founder of Paulin Watches, and Lewis Heath is the founder of anOrdain. At the same time, they are also husband and wife. Can you imagine the dinnertime conversations in that household? Or maybe they’re one of those couples who can keep work and private life perfectly separated. Anyway, their brands recently […] Visit From Scotland With Love: The Latest Artistic And Artisanal Watches From AnOrdain And Paulin to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Business News: Breitling Adds Gallet to Portfolio
One of the badly kept secrets in Swiss watchmaking has just come true: Breitling has acquired Gallet. Backed by Swiss private equity firm Partners Group, Breitling has been slowly building itself into a group of brands. The Gallet acquisition comes a little over a year after Breitling took over Universal Genève. According to Breitling chief executive Georges Kern speaking to Fratello Watches, Gallet will be positioned in the sub-CHF3,000 range, topping out at CHF5,000. This puts its squarely in the segment of established brands like Tudor and Longines, which enjoy unparalleled economies of scale, as well as online-only micro brands that lack the overhead of established brands. The rationale of acquiring Gallet is clear. As Mr Kern mentions in his Fratello interview, it gives Breitling a stronger position vis a vis third-party retailers since the brand can now offer products across the price spectrum, with Universal Genève at the very top. This is particularly relevant as many brands owned by luxury groups like Richemont continue to withdraw from third-party retailers. Another factor that is left unsaid in the interview is the enlarged group presumably improves the odds of an exit for Breitling’s private-equity backers. Partners Group bought a majority stake in Breitling at end 2022 from CVC Capital, another private equity firm that bought Breitling in 2017. According to news reports at the time, CVC divested part of its Breitling stake at over five times the 2017 valua...
Fratello
Fratello On Air: How We Feel About Revitalized Watch Brands
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we discuss our feelings about revitalized watch brands. The retro trend has been strong for over a decade, meaning that long-dormant names have been brought back to life. Are all successful? Enjoy one of our lengthiest episodes yet. For our listeners, the watch content […] Visit Fratello On Air: How We Feel About Revitalized Watch Brands to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm, a New Era for the French Manufacture
From our recent look into Pequignet, we learned the brand’s new vision. Now, the first timepiece offering a glimpse into the future of the company has arrived. It’s named the Royale Paris 39.5mm, it retains the impressive in-house movement of the brand, but it’s been tastefully redesigned with cleaner aesthetics. Soon to be unveiled at […]
SJX Watches
Business News: Jean-Marc Pontroué Departs Panerai, Emmanuel Perrin Takes Over
Panerai chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué has just revealed he’s stepping down in a post on his personal Instagram account. He took up the job almost exactly seven years ago, after six years as chief executive of Roger Dubuis and over a decade at Montblanc, where most notably he led the brand’s high-end watchmaking efforts (that were dialled back under subsequent managers). Mr Pontroué’s successor, effective April 1, will be Emmanuel Perrin, currently head of Specialist Watchmakers (SWM), essentially the watch division of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that also owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. According to insiders, SWM will continue to exist, but at a regional level, rather than the group-level entity it is now. Emmanuel Perrin Mr Pontroué landed at Panerai with big shoes to fill: his predecessor, Angelo Bonati, led the brand for over two decades, taking it from essentially nothing to one of the hottest brands in the 2000s. Panerai’s impressive momentum had begun to slow towards the end of Mr Bonati’s tenure, and despite his best efforts Mr Pontroué never managed to recapture the magic. Amongst the initiatives launched by Mr Pontroué at Panerai was sustainability in watchmaking materials and packaging, as well as a renewed engagement with Paneristi, the community of dedicated Panerai fans – underlined by historically inspired new launches coming in 2024. The brand’s direction will now be determined by Mr Perrin. During his spell leading SWM, Mr...
Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer
Omega has had a string of interesting releases since the white dialed Speedmaster became, if only for a minute, one of the hottest watches in the industry. That watch, released just about one year ago, set off a series of new product announcements that saw Omega embracing the watches and properties that make them one of the two or three most important brands in the world. They had, by all accounts, a great Olympics, and followed up a busy summer with a pair of enthusiast focused, Bond adjacent releases. They also gained quite a bit of traction with a new First Omega in Space and a well received (if expensive) Bronze Gold Seamaster. Omega was a brand that we had often talked about as being in something of a slump, but the last year saw them break out of that, at least somewhat. We’ll forgive them the Speedmaster Pilot. Last week, then, was like taking a time machine back just a few years, when the most exciting thing Omega could muster up was a collection of watches in different shades of blue. The new Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer is a true mish-mash of ideas and spare parts, a huge watch that could only be produced by a brand of Omega’s gargantuan size. Part of the Planet Ocean “Deep Black” sub-collection, these watches use the same 45.5mm platform. The case is a solid block of brushed ceramic and measures 18.99mm tall and 52.4mm from lug to lug. For anyone who mourns the era of the big watch, please point them this way. The Worldtimer functionality is bor...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer 'Deep Black'
For the first time ever, the most elegant of travel complications finds a home in Omega's toughest collection.
Time+Tide
Why everyone from Muhammad Ali to Andy Warhol fell for the Cartier Tank
How did this discreet piece of Gallic perfection reach icon status? Read on - the origin story of the Cartier Tank may surprise you.The post Why everyone from Muhammad Ali to Andy Warhol fell for the Cartier Tank appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Seiko’s Advanced Astron Collection Gets Four New References
If you like your watches complicated and your timezones varied, chances are you’re already aware of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar line, first launched in 2012. No, the watch doesn’t shout haphazard driving directions at you. Instead, its latest models use GPS technology and a solar-sensitive dial to automatically update the time according to your geographic position up to twice a day. But Seiko wasn’t done there-almost exactly a year on from the introduction of the Caliber 5X83, the first pairing of Dual-Time tech with a chronograph function, Seiko has unleashed four new Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs. Each of the four new watches-references SSH175, SSH177, SSH179 and limited-edition SSH180-features a titanium bezel with a sapphire crystal insert, adding a touch of practicality and elegance to the already robust profile of the Astron. An imposing 44mm mirror-polished titanium case houses the Caliber 5X83 movement, which promises a litany of advanced features, most prominent of which is the aforementioned GPS-controlled time and time zone adjustment. A world time function, perpetual calendar correct to the year 2100, automatic DST adjustment, AM/PM and signal reception indications, accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, and more round out the slate of functions. Of course, the titular chronographs also loom large on the dial, with a 1/20th second counter at 12 o’clock and a 12-hour counter with hours and minutes at 6 o’clock during chronograph operation...