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Results for NOS (New Old Stock)

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Introducing: TAG Heuer, Team Ikuzawa, And Bamford Return With A Second Collaboration Hodinkee
TAG Heuer Team Ikuzawa Jul 30, 2026

Introducing: TAG Heuer, Team Ikuzawa, And Bamford Return With A Second Collaboration

What We Know It feels like eons ago, but it was only three years back when TAG Heuer first collaborated with Team Ikuzawa and Bamford to release a Carrera chronograph. Just like Tetsu Ikuzawa in a Porsche 906 back in 1967. Oh, how time flies. Now the trio is back with a second collaboration from the minds of Tetsu's daughter and the team's principal, Mai Ikuzawa, brought to life by Bamford and TAG Heuer. With the compact 39mm Carrera "Glassbox" shape and the team's white-and-red accents, the watch draws on Mai Ikuzawa's decades of experience blending design, fashion, and motorsports. First things first. The watch is 39mm by 13.86mm in brushed and polished stainless steel, with that domed "glassbox" crystal that magnifies the dial and creates a 3D effect on the flange. The dial is white with a really unexpected Clous de Paris finish, the Team Ikuzawa branding at 6 o'clock, just above a date window with red text, and red text for TAG Heuer and Carrera at 12 o'clock. The edge of the dial has black-printed minute markers and numerals. The 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock has an unusual pinball-and-roulette-wheel design, and the hands have touches of red with luminous filling. Even the crown has a red stripe around it—the whole thing is unabashedly bold. Inside the case is the TH20-10 movement, with an 80-hour power reserve and a 4Hz frequency. You can see the automatic movement through the caseback, but it's slightly obscured by printed branding on the caseback for Team Ikuzaw...

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast Fratello
Bianchet Jul 30, 2026

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast

I will admit it: when Bianchet first launched quietly in 2017, the idea of another openworked tourbillon watch wasn’t overly intriguing. Then again, as a traditionalist, I tended to dismiss watches like this in the past. But, as they say, the past is the past. Now, I enjoy more theater in my timepieces. Painstaking finishing, […] Visit The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast to read the full article.

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck Jul 28, 2026

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold

Astronomical watches are part of Ulysse Nardin‘s identity, and Dr Ludwig Oechslin, like no other, shaped this chapter of the manufacture’s history. Shortly after entrepreneur Rolf Schnyder acquired the brand in 1983, he challenged the Swiss astronomer, mathematician and watchmaker to create a wristwatch capable of displaying the movements of celestial bodies. The result was […]

The Seiko Star Time: A 1 of 1 Masterpiece Built to Track One Million Hours WatchRider
Seiko Star Time Jul 23, 2026

The Seiko Star Time: A 1 of 1 Masterpiece Built to Track One Million Hours

When a watch brand celebrates a milestone with a high-profile ambassador, we usually know exactly what to expect: a limited-edition colorway, a signed caseback, and a predictable marketing campaign. But to celebrate 10 years with Los Angeles Dodgers superstar Shohei Ohtani, Seiko threw out the playbook entirely. They didn’t just design a new dial. They spent three years engineering a completely bespoke, 1-of-1 mechanical marvel called the Seiko Star Time. The Inspiration: Shohei Ohtani’s Existential Question The Star Time wasn’t built for a catalog; it was built for Los Angeles Dodgers superstar Shohei Ohtani.   To mark Ohtani’s 10th anniversary as a Seiko brand ambassador, the company set out to build a true piece unique. The concept was sparked by a philosophical question Ohtani himself asked: “How much time do I have left in my baseball career?”   Instead of a traditional chronograph that measures elapsed seconds, Seiko spent three years developing a watch that tracks the steady, relentless accumulation of time.  How Do You Count to a Million? It uses a newly architected in house movement to drive a highly unusual display of five concentric rotating discs. As the discs rotate, the numbers pass beneath a red line on the inner surface of the heavily domed sapphire crystal.  One million hours equates to just over 114 years of continuous tracking. The outer discs move so slowly that their motion is entirely imperceptible to the naked eye. Seiko design...

Reference Points: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch You could Jul 23, 2026

Reference Points: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch

You could make the argument that, among all brands, models, and complications, the Patek Philippe split-seconds wristwatch is one of the most overlooked, underappreciated, and least understood in any catalog. "That's because no one ever sees them," said Ben, when I made that very argument in the office recently. True. It's hard to call a watch underappreciated when the entry point for buying one is in the low six figures. But let me explain. The Patek Philippe ref. 5373. Think about this: the first chronograph wristwatch Patek ever made was a split-seconds. The first. Oh, and it was the first made by any brand. And while people are clamoring for perpetual calendar references like the 2497, 3448, and 3940, Patek has made at least 44 different perpetual calendar wristwatch models over the years (not counting different case materials, gems, or the 3971). How many serially-produced split-seconds references? Well, about 12 or 13, depending on how you count them.  It wasn't until recently that the reference 5004—the first modern serially produced perpetual calendar split-second watch from Patek—began to receive its due at auction, and it finally broke a 13-year-old record for the reference. A 1436, the first serially produced rattrapante, can still be had for less than an F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu. That, frankly, is ridiculous. They're rare birds, and it's all the more impressive that we have nine of them on the table today, all from the same owner. The Patek Philippe r...

A Difficult Question That Needs Answering: When Are Watches Art? Fratello
Jul 23, 2026

A Difficult Question That Needs Answering: When Are Watches Art?

During lunch with Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi from the auction house Phillips, I started wondering out loud, “When are watches art?” What sparked my question was last month’s Phillips auction, which was the highest-grossing watch auction in US history. The sale made a record US$75.8 million, and every single lot was sold. No fewer […] Visit A Difficult Question That Needs Answering: When Are Watches Art? to read the full article.

The Ruhla UFO: A Memento of Mod and The Cold War Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Disco Volante 5093 took Jul 22, 2026

The Ruhla UFO: A Memento of Mod and The Cold War

The Gebhard Duve-designed Audemars Piguet Disco Volante 5093 took the horological world by storm in the mid-1950s, and there’s no denying that it remains an exemplar of well-executed watch design today. With the combination of the ongoing Space Race and Mid-century futuristic design movement came an influx of wildly shaped and uniquely proportioned wristwatches throughout the middle portion of the 20th century. One of the most popular designs was the UFO, with brands like Omega, Timex, Zenith, Gruen, and Ruhla employing this case architecture in their 1950s, 60s, and even 70s catalogs. While I’ve had the chance to own a Timex UFO model and handle an Omega Dynamic, it’s the Ruhla you see pictured above that really caught my eye. Why? Let’s dig in. Brief History of Ruhla and The UFO Model Ruhla’s watch production, initially named “Gebrüder Thiel GmbH,” began in 1892 with its “Fearless” pocket watch, becoming the first mass-produced timepiece put to market. Fast forward decades later to 1952, and the company is renamed “Uhren und Maschinenfabrik Ruhla,” or Ruhla for short, and continues production of watches and movements for both the domestic East German and international markets. Ruhla quickly found great success throughout this era, with their plant becoming one of, if not the, world’s largest watchmaking factory. By 1963, the Ruhla logo seen on my UFO example was applied to all the company’s domestic models and was used until the brand’s closu...

Hands On: Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite SJX Watches
Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite Jul 22, 2026

Hands On: Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite

The Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite adds five panels of blue semi-precious stone to the brand’s flagship bracelet watch. It is a worthwhile extension of the collection that draws on an authentic Piaget speciality and gives the revived Polo 79 a stronger identity of its own. Initial thoughts Stone dials are now widespread, to the point that any new watch with a mineral dial feels a bit like an exercise in jumping on the bandwagon. But Piaget has been making watches with semiprecious stone dials since the 1960s, and helped establish the category altogether. As a result, the Polo 79 feels authentically Piaget, even though stone dials are now commonplace enough to seem generic. The case dimensions and build quality are unchanged — at 38 mm wide and 7.45 mm high, the Polo 79 remains compact and elegant, while the full white gold case and bracelet give it a heavy, dignified feel. The alternating brushed surfaces and polished gadroons are naturally finished to a high standard, and the rhodium plating will ensure the colour of the 18k white gold stays cool and bright indefinitely, even if it makes later refinishing a little more complicated. The watch is powered by the latest in a long lineage of Piaget micro-rotor calibres that reaches back more than 60 years. It’s still one of the thinnest automatic movements in the world, though it comes up a little short on power reserve by today’s standards, at 44 hours. Otherwise identical to the white gold Polo 79, the sodalite dial adds ab...

Photo Report: Tudor and Red Bull Take to the Skies Worn & Wound
Tudor Jul 21, 2026

Photo Report: Tudor and Red Bull Take to the Skies

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from being in the watch industry, it’s that you never know when you’ll have the opportunity to do something unique, and that saying “yes” to something without having all of the details might result in a rare, or even once in a lifetime experience. With that in mind, let me set the stage for how I found myself 1,000 feet above Manhattan in a 1958 DC-6B, piloted by The Flying Bulls. Early this month, I received a rather vague invitation to a ”Red Bull Flying Bulls thing with Tudor” immediately after returning from our Chicago Windup Watch Fair, and that it “involves a very early morning flight on a very old plane”. While I’d usually ask a million questions and try to get every detail that I could before committing to something, in the interest of being just a touch more spontaneous, I couldn’t respond “I’m intrigued, count me in” fast enough.  As we got closer to the event, I’d come to learn that the “old plane” in question was a beautifully restored 1958 DC-6B and the “very early morning” meant arriving at the Meatpacking Tudor Boutique at 7 AM. Once everyone arrived, our small crew began heading up to White Plains FBO, which I later learned was named Million Air. Not long into the ride, we were presented with a briefcase of loaner watches, ranging from the Tudor Ranger in 36mm “Dune” and 39mm “Black”, or the Black Bay 58 GMT on either the new five link bracelet or classic rubber strap. While...

Introducing: Breitling Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute To Aston Martin DB5 Hodinkee
Breitling Top Time B01 Chronograph Jul 20, 2026

Introducing: Breitling Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute To Aston Martin DB5

What We Know Breitling's Top Time has long been a unique outlier in the Swiss brand's line-up. A chronograph model with a square (ish) cushion case launched in 1964, it aimed to attract a new crop of younger consumers with its hipster design.  The Top Time soon made it onto the wrist of no less an icon than James Bond in the 1965 film adaptation of Ian Fleming's Thunderball, which saw Sean Connery's 007 sport the watch while driving an elegant and refined British sports car, the Aston Martin DB5.  The rest, as they say, is history. The U.K.-built Aston became synonymous with the U.K. secret agent. The Top Time? Not so much. While it thrived as a model line for Breitling, Bond moved on to a series of other watch brands in subsequent installments of the film series, from Rolex to Seiko, and these days, Omega, via a longstanding product placement deal.  Now Breitling, following the successful launch last year of the limited edition Top Time B01 'Racing' Series in 38mm, and the deal this year to hook up with Aston Martin as a sponsor of its F1 team and other motoring endeavors, is giving us its tribute to the DB5 in three limited edition models that aim to capture the refined elegance and power of the grand touring car on the wrist.  The new Top Time Chronograph B01 Tribute To Aston Martin DB5 case measures 41 millimeters by 47.9 millimeters and13.8 millimeters thick. The dial of each limited-edition model features a wood inlay rehaut, meant to evoke the wooden steering w...

Worn & Wound has Acquired Lorier - Let’s Talk About Why, and What This Means for Lorier’s Future Worn & Wound
Ming demand Jul 20, 2026

Worn & Wound has Acquired Lorier - Let’s Talk About Why, and What This Means for Lorier’s Future

We have some exciting news to share. Worn & Wound has acquired Lorier. Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega, Lorier’s founders, will remain partial owners of the business and retain creative stewardship of the brand, with Lorenzo serving as Creative Director. The goal of this partnership is to unlock Lorier’s full potential, freeing Lauren and Lorenzo to do what they love most: designing great products and engaging with the Lorier community. In turn, Lorier gains access to Worn & Wound’s infrastructure of customer service, fulfillment, product procurement, logistics, and more. Together, we’ll scale operations to meet the overwhelming demand for Lorier. This will take time. There’s significant pent-up demand for Lorier’s core line, and in one week we’ll be unveiling updated versions of some of the brand’s most popular models: the Hyperion, Hydra, Falcon, and Astra. We’ll be honest, we expect this run to sell quickly. But, rest assured, we’ll reinvest to increase production runs, rerelease other core models, and develop new lines. Until now, Lorier was run solely by the Ortegas. They poured everything into it, building a remarkable brand and an even more remarkable community. But as demand for Lorier grew, Lauren and Lorenzo hit a crossroads. With their capacity tapped out, they either needed to find the right partner to help them scale or consider options for exiting the company. Thankfully, they chose the former. We’re honored to be entrusted with Lorier’s ong...

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin 'Twin Beat' Perpetual Calendar Returns Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Jul 20, 2026

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin 'Twin Beat' Perpetual Calendar Returns

When Vacheron Constantin announced the original Twin-Beat at SIHH in 2019, I wasn't in the watch space in the same way I am now. I was also focused on a much different price point—the one I shop in, not the one that I've since become fascinated by. So I missed it. A lot of people did, it seems. I don't think this watch, as interesting as it is/was as a first release, was made in particularly large numbers, and for over a year, I heard rumblings about the eventual return of the Twin-Beat. Well, it's here. It's improved. And yes, in the metal, it's both entertaining and impressive. But what is it? Essentially, the watch leverages two balances that beat at different rates to provide either 4 days of power reserve running at 5Hz or 70 days in standby mode at 1.2Hz. Oh, and it's a perpetual calendar as well. We covered the technical aspects back in 2019, so this will focus more on the watch as a revived model. The technical is the key here, but the form factor is impressive as well. A perpetual calendar, with dual balances, measuring 42mm and 12.3mm thick, it's hefty because of the platinum case, but it wears quite well despite the technicality. Vacheron has a tendency to make some impressively complicated watches and, unfortunately, make them quite large in the process. This would never have been a problem in the old days (especially for brands like Patek, which dominated this high-end, integrated complication space), but then again, the specifications of the old days don't ...

Dive Deep With The Sized-Down Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 Fratello
Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic Jul 18, 2026

Dive Deep With The Sized-Down Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80

There is always something to learn. For instance, did you know that sea stars have a massive depth range, living everywhere from shallow, sunlit intertidal zones to the pitch-black ocean floor? Many species prefer tide pools, but some deep-sea varieties thrive at astonishing depths of up to 9,000 meters (29,500 feet)! Not even the new […] Visit Dive Deep With The Sized-Down Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 to read the full article.

Is The IWC Ingenieur 35 Superior Shrunken Down? (Hands On) WatchAdvice
Ming increasingly accustomed Jul 17, 2026

Is The IWC Ingenieur 35 Superior Shrunken Down? (Hands On)

The IWC Ingenieur 35 comes in a smaller package – but does it still make the same big impact? Let’s find out! What We Love: A well-wearing compact case Smartly proportioned without compromise Unisex appeal for the size What We Don’t: No micro-adjustment a missed opportunity Butterfly clasp felt fiddly What does IWC want the Ingenieur to be? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8/10 It’s a small world these days. Rapid communication, travel, and deeply connected economies are bringing everything closer than ever, and people are becoming increasingly accustomed to the appeal of compaction. No industry has been able to completely ignore the effects of downsizing, and in the watch world, that shift couldn’t be more apparent. Once considered the hallmark of vintage taste or dedicated enthusiasm, the small watch has found itself in high demand. More than simply a correction of a trend, consumers are increasingly drawn towards intent and proportion over hyper-tangible, bold statement pieces. Compelling watchmaking is no longer measured by square footage, and brands around the world have shifted to meet consumers where they are. This is especially apparent with the IWC Ingenieur as it exists today. Reimagined by Gerald Genta as a “Jumbo” model measuring 40mm in diameter, Genta’s revision earned fame for its ability to command presence through pragmatic minimalism and bold lines. When IWC re-released the col...

Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics] Hodinkee
Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II Jul 17, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics]

What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...

Bring a Loupe: An Hermès Caleche, A Chromed Angelus, And A Rolex SARU Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jul 17, 2026

Bring a Loupe: An Hermès Caleche, A Chromed Angelus, And A Rolex SARU

We may not be, as Rob Thomas serenaded us way back, seven inches from the midday sun, but hoo boy, however close we are is plenty (I know, I know: 93 million miles). I hope wherever you're reading this is appreciably cooler and/or not too clogged with smoke, and for the dog owners, I hope your canine companion's finally shaken off the terror of the holiday two weeks back. Scorekeeping last week's pick, the Tudor Inter Miami Pink sold for TKTK ($19,500 currently, sells thrs), the Longines Ultra-Chron went for £440, the Jaeger chronograph sells Saturday, and both Rangers are still (implausibly—what are you waiting for?) available. Strays Photo courtesy Aletheia Subastas. If you missed the Tudor Ranger II from a bit back, here's a hell of a nice example. This Jaeger-LeCoultre is the nicest plain jane, solid gold watch I've seen in a bit, and it's powered by a P469/A, meaning you'll have a watch using the same engine that helped tens of thousands of WWII guys stay on time. This Eberhard simply looks like it'd be a fun wear, and sometimes that's plenty, and while this Edox Geoscope 42 is a bit on the complicated side, its fun factor is still real high. For those interested in flexing their maritime bona fides, here's a great-looking near-NOS Heuer Regatta from Hess Fine Art, and, in the same auction, there's also this Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 and this Mk1 Sea-Dweller ref 1665 (both from 1978, if someone's hankering to buy me a birth-year watch). Finally, here's an excellen...

The Swatch Mission to the Moon 1969. What Makes the “1969” the Ultimate MoonSwatch? WatchRider
Omega History Unlike previous “Mission Jul 17, 2026

The Swatch Mission to the Moon 1969. What Makes the “1969” the Ultimate MoonSwatch?

Let’s be honest: being a watch enthusiast often involves making some highly questionable life choices in the name of horology. I should know. Back in 2022, I literally boarded a plane and flew to London just to hunt down the Swatch Mission to Uranus. I secured the pale blue prize, and then… I scratched it on the very first day.  But time heals all wounds, and Swatch has just dropped something that is pulling me right back into the gravitational pull of the MoonSwatch madness. Enter the brand-new, ultra-exclusive Mission to the Moon 1969. The “Mission to the Moon 1969” is not just another cosmetic color swap. It is a highly exclusive, 1,969 piece limited-edition release that bridges the gap between affordable hype and true luxury watchmaking. Here are the details that make this particular release a genuine collector’s fever dream: It’s Made of Actual, Re-Smelted Omega History Unlike previous “Mission to Moonshine Gold” editions, which only featured a gold-plated seconds hand, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is absolutely dripping in real gold. The watch features a solid 18-karat Moonshine Gold dial, hands, crown, and chronograph pushers, totalling exactly 11 grams of gold (a clever, playful nod to the Apollo 11 mission number). But the real magic is in the gold’s lineage. Rather than sourcing new gold, Swatch melted down actual vintage Omega spare parts dating back to 1969 using their in-house foundry. When you wear this watch, you are wearing a phy...

Auctions: Phillips Announces Sale Of A Pre-Production  F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance In November Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Jul 17, 2026

Auctions: Phillips Announces Sale Of A Pre-Production  F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance In November

Here we go again. It's been a blue ribbon auction year so far, particularly for rare examples of timepieces from independents, including F.P. Journe. During a record-setting spring auction season marked by a stunning shift in valuations and collector interest in top-notch independent watchmakers, an early Chronomètre à Résonance (no. 007) fetched a record $13.9 million, making it the most expensive F.P. Journe watch ever sold at auction and the fifth most expensive watch of all time.  Mark wrote up a great piece on the record-breaking result that dives deep into the history of the Résonance and why it's such an important achievement in haute horology, and why it is François-Paul Journe's signature watch. With the prototype produced in 1998, and with 'Souscription' commercial pieces produced and delivered beginning in 2000, Journe's Chronomètre à Résonance marks the first time that the concept of "résonance," combining two movements with separate balances into a single case and bringing them into perfect synchronization, was brought to a wristwatch. For many collectors, the model represents the ultimate expression of Journe's vision and talent as a watchmaker. Just 20 'Souscription' pieces—offered to those who bought Journe's first watch, a tourbillon—were produced, and collectors have come to covet the series, with the earliest watches fetching a premium. When it comes to the Résonance, the earlier the better, it seems. That's why it's newsworthy and worth ...

Introducing: The Solar Orbiter Watch Winder For The MB&F; M.A.D.Gallery Hodinkee
MB&F; Jul 16, 2026

Introducing: The Solar Orbiter Watch Winder For The MB&F; M.A.D.Gallery

What We Know This year marks 15 years of MB&F;'s M.A.D.Gallery, a unique boutique concept that serves as both a storefront for MB&F;'s wildly inventive horological creations and a showcase of mechanical art from artists around the world (and yes, you can buy those pieces, too). As one of the projects celebrating this anniversary, the folks behind the M.A.D.Gallery has commissioned British designer Martin Smith to create one of the most unique watch winders I've ever seen, in a limited edition of 10 pieces. To say that this is a bit of an unconventional design for a watch winder would be an understatement, and it's something that I can't stop looking at. Designer Martin Smith playing with one of his other kinetic sculptures. The sculptural form of the Solar Orbiter stands at a height of 60cm—that's around two feet tall for us Americans—and spans a width and depth (essentially a diameter of the piece) of 40cm or around 16 inches. In the chaos of the two feet of powder-coated steel, aluminum, brass, wood, and electronics, Smith draws inspiration from the whimsy of pop art, toys, and Eames' iconic Solar Do-Nothing Machine from the fifties to create a spinning, rotating sculpture that is hard to ignore in any room.  But most importantly, there is functionality to it all, as part of the spinning arm of the Solar Orbiter holds a watch to perpetually wind as the machine goes on. There are over 300 handmade parts in this piece, and the design certainly doesn't hide any of them. ...

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler Limited Edition Hodinkee
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Jul 15, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler Limited Edition

What We Know If you're a Doxa fan, you might be familiar with the brand's connection with the late explorer and novelist Clive Cussler, along with his literary creation of Dirk Pitt, an explorer in Cussler's books known to sport a Sub 300 Professional on the wrist. This relationship has manifested itself in a few Clive Cussler limited editions going back to 2023, and this year's edition is probably the coolest one yet. It's a special edition Sub 300 in grade 5 titanium, meant as a tribute to Cussler. It's a big departure, design-wise, from a few of the previous editions, as it does away with the distressed finishing and compass motifs for something much more in line with what Cussler's literary creation Dirk Pitt would have worn. I know there are some intense Doxa fans probably reading, so I won't bury the lede here—this watch is limited to only 300 pieces, and you can get one through Doxa's online shop or select authorized retailers. While past editions were produced in editions numbered to align with Cussler's age, Doxa knew that 95 pieces were simply not going to cut it this year, hence the much larger—yet most certainly not large enough—production size. The silhouette of the watch remains extremely familiar. It is still a Sub 300 after all, with a 42.5mm case and a 45mm lug-to-lug distance. The compact lug-to-lug, paired with the extreme lightness of grade 5 titanium for the case, screw-down caseback, and crown, means that this should be an extremely easy-wearing...

Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer Fratello
Jul 15, 2026

Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer

It has been almost a year since my last article, so no pressure at all! “It has to be an epic comeback,” I told myself as one month flew into another. There were many watch candidates with unusual stories, but getting back to writing became harder and harder each week. As it usually goes, that […] Visit Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer to read the full article.

Introducing: The Krayon Parhelion, A Maximalist Take On The Brand’s Anywhere Watch Hodinkee
Krayon Jul 13, 2026

Introducing: The Krayon Parhelion, A Maximalist Take On The Brand’s Anywhere Watch

What We Know Pretty much anything that independent watch brand Krayon produces feels like it rests solidly in the if-you-know-you-know realm of exquisitely engineered high-end complications. The brand's focused catalog contains variations on three main complications—the universal sunrise and sunset calculator that is the Everywhere, the watchmaker-adjustable sunrise and sunset-indicating caliber that is the Anywhere, and the most recently introduced weekday and weekend pointer date display in the Anyday. Sure, Krayon's recent Pac-Man collaboration in a limited run of Anywhere watches might feel like an odd one out, but most of the examples I've seen on the wrists of collectors have all flown well under the radar with tastefully measured executions. But if you've ever wondered what a Krayon would look like with a touch—scratch that, a lot—of bling, well, the new Parhelion might just do the trick. It's hard to mistake this new watch for anything else in the catalog thanks to the sheer number of baguette-cut sapphires set across the entire watch—159 of them, to be exact. To house this number of gemstones, the case is 42mm in diameter, made from an alloy of white gold with a high percentage of palladium for a very white hue to match the brightness of the stones. Thickness, given the complication, is impressive at 9.5mm. When I first saw a prototype of the Parhelion a few months ago, only the bezel was inlaid with sapphires, in a stunning gradient from white to blue. Bu...

Introducing: The Maurice De Mauriac Rallymaster 'Swiss Tennis' Hodinkee
Rolex testimonee extraordinaire Roger Federer Jul 13, 2026

Introducing: The Maurice De Mauriac Rallymaster 'Swiss Tennis'

What We Know Swiss sport isn't limited to just skiing, soccer, and ice hockey. The Alpine nation is a tennis force. Besides the GOAT himself and Rolex testimonee extraordinaire Roger Federer, Switzerland has produced Grand Slam champs Martina Hingis and Stan Wawrinka; the Swiss team won the Davis Cup in 2014, while current WTA player Belinda Bencic took home singles gold at the Tokyo Olympics.  The global center for fine watchmaking is also a hub for tennis greatness. And with that in mind, Zurich's Maurice de Mauriac is serving up the latest iteration of its tennis-themed Rallymaster series, the Rallymaster Swiss Tennis. A limited edition of 130 pieces in tribute to the 130th anniversary of Swiss Tennis is launching today at the Swiss Open in Gstaad. This isn't the first Rallymaster, that's for sure. Designed by California creative and keen-eyed collector Carlton DeWoody (with whom I once drove to Geneva from La Chaux-de-Fonds - but that's a story for another time), the sporty and practical Rallymaster has been produced in a slew of editions, taking inspiration from the Grand Slams, as well as modern tennis style and culture. With a brushed stainless steel case measuring 39 millimeters in diameter and 12mm thick, and 100 meters of water resistance, the Rallymaster is designed to take you just about anywhere, from the tennis court to the beach and beyond. As Tim Vaux recently revealed, Russell Crowe is a fan of lawn tennis, and a Wimbledon-themed Rallymaster III sits pro...

Christopher Ward Collaborates With The Dial Artist To Create The Twelve Xander Fratello
Christopher Ward Collaborates Jul 9, 2026

Christopher Ward Collaborates With The Dial Artist To Create The Twelve Xander

We know Christopher Ward as a brand that always keeps new releases coming. With most of them, CW raises the bar of affordable timepieces time and again. But it’s not always about pushing the boundaries of technical development and production quality. If there is one thing that the brand understands well, it’s that it should […] Visit Christopher Ward Collaborates With The Dial Artist To Create The Twelve Xander to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Temporal Works Series A 'Rambler' Hodinkee
Patek Philippe 565 Jul 8, 2026

Hands-On: The Temporal Works Series A 'Rambler'

Any good tailor has a house style, or a few of them. You generally don't want a tailor who says they can do everything—Neapolitan, English, sack suit—as they rarely do it all that well. Variations on a theme are key to a tailor who knows how to cover the right amount of ground and deliver a good result. The house style, as it were, for The Armoury's recently launched house brand, Temporal Works, is a Patek Philippe 565 for the modern era. And if the 565 and a Hamilton Khaki field watch had a baby, it would look something like this: Temporal Works' new Series A "Rambler." The brand, along with its inaugural model, launched last November with the Series A 'Sector' in black or blue, or the Series A "Fortune Red" in stainless steel cases with Zaratsu-polished surfaces. When I hung out with Cho last fall, a while before the launch, he pulled a watch out of his pocket and showed it to me. "Oh! A 565," I remember saying. For whatever reason, in my busy schedule, it fell through the cracks for coverage. To be honest, they didn't hit me the same way as the new "Rambler" with its stainless-steel bead-blasted monoblock case. Temporal Works Series A 'Sector' Maybe there's just something more novel about a 565 that doesn't look that much like any 565 before it. With the sector dials (less so the red one), you can imagine a world in which Patek might have done something like this, even though they never experimented with color beyond black or a sector dial quite like this. The built...

Introducing: The Rally Diver Returns For The Fourth Collab Between Seiko And Rowing Blazers Hodinkee
Seiko Jul 7, 2026

Introducing: The Rally Diver Returns For The Fourth Collab Between Seiko And Rowing Blazers

What We Know After a string of three successful collaborations, the trio of Seiko, NYC-based clothing brand Rowing Blazers, and Eric Wind of Wind Vintage is back after a long hiatus with its fourth set of creations. If you're thinking that the two new models might seem awfully familiar, you'd be right. They're essentially a continuation of one of the first models in the original Rowing Blazers Seiko collaboration, reference SRPG49. That "Rally Diver" from 2021 itself served as an homage to a vintage Rally Diver Seiko from the late sixties, a watch that Eric Wind credits as the first vintage watch he'd ever purchased. Now, five years later, the group is bringing forth two new versions of this Rally Diver Seiko 5 Sports watch, each numbered and limited to a generous 2,500 pieces, bringing the total for this launch to a pretty large 5,000 units. The blue Rally Diver, ref. SRPM19 continues the 42.5mm sizing of the 2021 edition, while the green dial comes in a smaller 38mm case size. The distinctive checkered aluminum insert on the unidirectional rotating bezel is rendered in silver and either bright blue or forest green, matching the color of the double-signed dial. While the handset is primarily brushed, the pointing half of the seconds hand is striped in red and white. Both models are delivered on a steel bracelet (yes, with that familiar stamped Seiko 5 clasp), and the green Rally Diver includes an additional blue nylon strap. In contrast, the blue Rally Diver includes an a...

Hands-On: The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Blue And An Intro To Bonniksen Hodinkee
Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Blue Jul 7, 2026

Hands-On: The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Blue And An Intro To Bonniksen

Double tourbillons, quadruple tourbillons, movements assembled with such three-dimensional ambition that they sit like sci-fi architecture on the wrist, every time I have a Greubel Forsey in hand, I'm reminded just how much the brand operates in its own lane. Yet there has always been something faintly contradictory about the Balancier 3, the model the brand first introduced in 2023 as its most moderate, most structurally legible entry point. With three bridges, a clean balance, no tourbillon, and no theatre, the Balancier 3 on paper is reserved. And yet my first thought with this recently released version on the wrist is that even a restrained Greubel Forsey is a startling object. Balanced beautifully between spotlighting its technicality and marrying that with a new execution, this might be the brand's simplest watch on paper, but it is not, by any reasonable measure, a simple watch. The Balancier 3 has been with us for three years now, and with this latest edition, the large central bridge has been hand-frosted across its entire curved surface. The result is a deep, matte texture, the kind of pronounced surface that a machine couldn't lay down convincingly on a shape this complex, running from the edge of the movement between one and two o'clock down to the seconds between seven and eight. Around it, the balance and barrel bridges remain in a bright, polished titanium, producing an incredibly captivating contrast of reflection and depth. Then there is the blue, worked i...

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g 02Series Gen 2 Hodinkee
Studio Underd0g 02Series Gen 2 What Jul 6, 2026

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g 02Series Gen 2

What We Know Today, British microbrand Studio Underd0g, known for its uniquely conceived and constructed dials, introduces the second-generation update to its 02Series time-only field watch-ish design. Though new dial colors kind of feel like the brand's major schtick, there are a few surprising changes this time around. First, and a change that's sure to appeal to everyone, is a slight reduction in the case height of the 02Series. It's not the craziest of reductions, going from 12mm to 11.5mm, but shaving off this much is still a welcome improvement, especially considering the case itself is 9.4mm without the pronounced crystal. The new case measures 37.5mm in diameter, with the new 11.5mm thickness and a 46mm lug-to-lug. Yes, the diameter has also increased by half a millimeter, but the revamped proportions should work well across a large variety of wrists. The tighter tolerances also mean that the dial is now closer to the crystal, and this was accomplished thanks to the brand's acquisition of assembly workshop Horologium, now transformed into Studio Underd0g's own in-house workshop, aptly titled The D0ghouse. The caliber inside has also received a subtle update—the Sellita SW210 has been replaced by the SW200-2 M Power+. It's a mouthful, but what that means is an extended power reserve, increased from 42 hours to 63 hours. But in keeping with the execution of the previous generation, the rotor is removed to keep this second-generation manually wound. Across the four ...