Hodinkee
Introducing: Downsizing De Bethune's Perpetual Calendar With The DB25sQP
A smaller size for the brand's ever-gorgeous QP.
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Hodinkee
A smaller size for the brand's ever-gorgeous QP.
SJX Watches
Traditionally all about vintage-inspired, “Marina Militare” dive watches, Panerai has recently been rolling out complications with a minimalist, contemporary execution, such as the recent Luminor pepertual calendar. Sharing a similar aesthetic perhaps more practical – and certainly more affordable – is the new Luminor BiTempo PAM 1360 and PAM 1361, a GMT wristwatch with striking baby-blue accents on a blue or black dial. The PAM 1361 with a radially-brushed blue dial Initial thoughts Given its large diameter and clean dial, the Luminor accommodates complications well while still maintaining its characteristic minimalist style – if the additions are integrated properly. Panerai managed that with the BiTempo, which manages to incorporate a date, second time zone, and power reserve indicator without hindering the recognisable Panerai aesthetic. In fact, the BiTempo could pass for a time-only Luminor from across a room. That said, the second time zone isn’t a new complication for the brand – the movement is an existing calibre – so the novelty is mainly in the facelift that changes dial details like the enlarged date display and blue accents. While I appreciate that the baby blue indicators are legible, I find the colour overly pastel for the low-key, military-inspired styling. Legible both day and night Twin time zones The BiTempo has a 44 mm Luminor 1950 case with its trademark crown guard. The “sandwich” dial has the signature Luminor layout with ov...
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Hamilton is no stranger to daring exploits, whether that be in the sea, skies or the silver screen. Last year, the Swatch Group member announced their partnership with Syroco, a company looking to create a wind-powered vessel capable of reaching tremendous speeds while sailing across the water. Fast-forward to now and Syroco has developed their … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Syroco celebrates a boat set to break the sailing speed record appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet has a case of the high-complication blues.
A classic take on classic watchmaking enters the 21st century.
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SJX Watches
In a perhaps unsurprising but very much a welcome move, Tudor has just taken the covers off the Pelagos 39, a scaled-down and slightly dressed up version of its “professional” diver’s watch. Rated to 200 m and just 11.8 mm tall, the Pelagos 39 is essentially a condensed version of its bigger brother. Initial thoughts No doubt in response to feedback, Tudor has been steadily trimming the sizes of its key models. The brand has preserved the key technical features of the watches while reducing the case diameter, dialling back on the chunkiness of its first-generation models. The Black Bay Pro was a smaller GMT and a few months later the Pelagos 39 arrives as the smaller “pro” diver. Besides the smaller diameter, the new Pelagos is also thinner, so it will no doubt be more easily wearable on an everyday basis than its 42 mm counterpart. Wearability aside, the Pelagos 39 is evidently caters to enthusiasts in other ways. It has a symmetrical dial with no date display, while the text above six include a single line in red. It’s difficult not to like the Pelagos 39. The Pelagos 39 also has subtle changes to the dial and bezel finish that differentiate it from the larger models. The brushed finish on those components give it a little bit more shine, avoiding the muted, functional appearance of the earlier Pelagos watches. As is typical for Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is priced at just US$4,400. Considering its build quality and movement, that ranks it amongst the best in cla...
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Finally! Look, I have always felt the Pelagos is one of the strongest dive watches on the market. But, afflicted with slender wrist syndrome, the size, while it could work for my wrist, was not optimal. While many enjoy the original 42mm Pelagos, and for good reason, others have shared my sentiment – the people … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Tudor gives the people what they want with new 39mm Pelagos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having launched a “panda” version earlier this year, Nivada Grenchen has unveiled another customised chronograph for its Dubai retailer. Clad in a striking olive-green, the Chronomaster Automatic “Perpétuel” Second Edition once again features Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial and bezel. Initial thoughts While the Second Edition is a repetition of the first in a different colour, it is undoubtedly more striking. Olive green is a fashionable colour today but it works well with the faux-vintage lume and retro style of the watch. More broadly, the vintage-inspired design also suits the calligraphic style of the Eastern Arabic numerals. Like the first edition, the new model costs almost double the standard Chronomaster. It’s a steep premium for a new dial, but the Eastern-Arabic numerals have a unique appeal, particularly in the Middle East. The only downside to the Second Edition is arguably the fact that it came second – some who bought the “panda” without knowing this was in the pipeline might have wanted to wait for this one instead. A sixties design The Second Edition is based on the Chronomaster Automatic, a sports chronograph produced by Nivada in the 1960s. Conceived as a multi-purpose chronograph for both divers and aviators, the Chronomaster is rated to 200 m but also has a countdown bezel and tachymeter scale – this also explains the text above six o’clock. Besides the olive green dial, the key feature of the Chronomaster Perpétuel are the Ea...
Time+Tide
Smart watches are among the more divisive topics in horological circles. Some call for them to be lynched as they threaten the pure, mechanical souls of their 18th century technology. Others, however tolerate their presence or even claim them to be the future. Whichever camp you fall into, simply calling the Sequent Smart-Ass a smart … ContinuedThe post The Sequent Smart-Ass is bound to excite your inner couch potato appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The greener-than-green Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar is not my usual style. That's why I wanted to try it. And although the clasp made me want to commit a crime, I came away with a whole new appreciation for horological idiosyncrasy.
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Time+Tide
The Swatch Group is full of top-notch brands: Omega, Longines, Blancpain, Glashütte Original and more. But arguably the brand under their umbrella with the most grace and gravitas is Breguet. With an unapologetically classic, time-capsule aesthetic, truly engined-turned dials, and handsome calibres, Breguet’s Classique collection is a must visit in the metal at your local … ContinuedThe post The new Breguet Classique 7337 and Classique Dame watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having made its debut in Greubel Forsey’s watches a decade ago, the world time is one of the brand’s distinctive complications with its large titanium globe. While the original iteration of the world time wristwatch came to an end last year with the all-black final edition, Greubel Forsey has taken the covers off its successor, the GMT Balancier Convexe. The three-dimensional world time sphere has been retained, but almost all else has been redesigned on the new model. Beside adopting the streamlined aesthetics of the brand’s bestselling sports watches like the Balancier S2, the display now has local and world time arranged concentrically in a traditional, Louis Cottier-style display in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Despite its complex looks and US$400,000 price tag, the GMT Balancier Convexe is relatively simple for a Greubel Forsey. In fact, it’s the brand’s first world time watch without a tourbillon. As a result, the new GMT is as much about design as mechanics. The GMT demonstrates how GF is implementing its sports watch styling across practically all of its line-up. The GMT has a streamlined “Convexe” case and does away with the asymmetrical bulge traditionally used to accommodate the globe. Because of its curved profile and hidden lugs, Convexe case allows the GMT to pass as a moderately sized watch despite being 46.5 mm in diameter, allowing it to wear smaller. To go along with the sporty case style, the dial has been given a new look. ...
SJX Watches
The sister company of H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence is a maker of highly contemporary watches that’s been on ice for several years as its owners completed Moser’s resurrection. Now Hautlence is making a comeback with a trio of watches led by the Linear Series 1. Adopting the TV-shaped case that’s historically the brand’s signature – but now matched with an integrated rubber strap – the Linear Series 1 features a retrograde hours on a straight-line scale along with a flying tourbillon at six o’clock. Initial thoughts Hautlence was founded in 2004 and found success during the subsequent boom in the luxury watch industry. Its fortunes faded together with that era of good times, so it is perhaps fitting that the brand is now being revived in the midst of another boom. The Linear Series 1 smartly returns to the TV-screen case that defined the brand since its inception. When combined with the open dial it is distinctive at a distance and recognisable as a Hautlence. Naturally the case design has been tweaked for today’s tastes, so it gets an integrated rubber strap. The sporty stance of the new look is appealing, although the integrated strap and folding clasp means it won’t fit perfectly on all wrists. Mechanically the Linear Series 1 is the result of a Moser base movement and an Agenhor module (that was originally developed for RJ-Romain Jerome), so it has solid technical credentials. Besides a retrograde hours, the movement also have a flying tourbillon with do...
Time+Tide
In March this year, Bulgari released the world’s thinnest mechanical watch with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, only to be beaten again in July by the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari by just 0.05mm. While creating another record-breaking watch within a handful of months would be inconceivable, the Bulgari lineup for Geneva Watch Days offers an … ContinuedThe post GENEVA WATCH DAYS: The Bulgari novelties find a luxe upgrade for the Octo in gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Give me all the bezels.
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Hodinkee
The LM Split Escapement EVO is how MB&F; tackles a "simple and sporty" design brief.
Time+Tide
When Doxa released a ceramic limited edition of their legendary Army watch with Watches of Switzerland, we all knew it would be a matter of time before this thrilling design would be made available to the masses. While it’s expected that some production models will modernise reissues to some extent, the Doxa Army offers the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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It’s getting harder and harder to stand out as a microbrand as dozens seem to pop up every week, but the most distinctive examples are always something special. Julian Michaels are the latest brand to forge an individual identity, but they do so without the need for any gimmicks or garish novelties. Instead, Julian Michaels … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Julian Michaels’ new releases show the value of breathing space and balance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This edition of Fits and Ticks is dedicated to the late visionary that was Issey Miyake, a truly multi-faceted designer. With his clothing on the forefront of technology-inspired designs through his famous lines such as Pleats Please, Homme Plisse, Bao Bao and, of course, his eponymous main collection line, Issey Miyake carved a legacy that … ContinuedThe post The organic designs of Issey Miyake watches – a tribute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why is this timepiece important from a holistic view of horological history? The reasons are manifold and include the unheard-of technology nestled within its movement, the audacity of a German newcomer in challenging Swiss status quo, and the symbolic value for A. Lange & Söhne's rebirth as well as the golden age of mechanical timepieces.
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Deployant
Montblanc offers an intuitive way of keeping track of time in different time zones without hands. One of the most practical complications, the Montblanc 1858 GMT watch function limit of time in two different places at the same time. So, wherever you are on the planet and whatever you are doing, your watch can indicateRead More
Time+Tide
Bulova's A-11 "hack" watch is often called "the watch that won the war".The post IN-DEPTH: The Bulova Hack watches and their military history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Doxa are a legend among revived Swiss watch brands, with a rich back catalogue of products to pull from that maintain an intense cult following. Their quirky designs are full of vintage flair and mystique, yet they’ve also proven themselves to be trailblazers in modern trends such as carbon fibre construction and refurbished movements. While … ContinuedThe post The top 5 Doxa limited editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Despite having made more than 100 pièces uniques among a grand total of approximately 1,500 timepieces spanning 42 years of a truly inventive career, independent watchmaker and co-founder of the A.H.C.I. Svend Andersen has become particularly known for the worldtimer, a complicated timepiece displaying the time in 24 time zones. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares a brief history of worldtimers and blue gold while looking at the Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures du Monde.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko 5 watch series traces its roots all the way back to 1963, when the Japanese mega-brand introduced the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define the vast collection today. These include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the watches run the gamut from dress pieces to field watches to divers, with all kinds of variations in between (the current shorthand descriptions are Sense, Specialist, Sports, Suits, and Street). Seiko 5 watches still adhere to those five principles initially laid out more than half a century ago while still retaining the famously inexpensive price points that have made them so desirable - from under $100 to the neighborhood of $500 for the more exclusive editions. Seiko 5 watches - rebranded in the collection’s relaunch in 2019 as Seiko 5 Sports, despite offering this diversity of styles - have a worldwide fan following, with many JDM (Japan Direct Market) models highly sought after by American collectors due to their scarcity. And for many a budding watch collector of modest means, a Seiko 5 watch is the gateway drug to a full-blown timepiece obsession. Here we spotlight some of our favorites. SRPC65 “Bottlecap” Reference: SRPC65, Price: $150-$250, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug-to-L...
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