Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Piece Unique Chopard, A London Tank Allongée, And An Art Deco Purse Watch
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
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Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week and next, I will be putting the spotlight on Zenith. To be a bit more specific, for this week, I picked my top five modern Zenith watches. Next week, I will put the spotlight on some of the brand’s best vintage models. These are somewhat self-indulgent lists because I […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Zenith Models to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Havid Nagan is a small independent watch brand based out of Los Angeles that was founded by Aren Bazerkanian a few short years ago. Just released is the new Classic One watch, its third release after the debut HN00 from 2022 and the sophomore release of the HN01 Lucine Moonphase in 2023. Unlike some other independent brand founders, Bazerkanian is not a watchmaker or artisan by trade but rather he is a passionate enthusiast who understands that a watch is the sum of its parts. This parallels the Jean-Claude Biver model, which focuses on the “big picture,” and the result has been one of the more understated yet inarguably impressive runs of a new brand in the post-Covid landscape. The team of industry pros and talent assembled by Bazerkanian for the Classic One includes Guillaume Tetu (previously product manager at TAG Heuer, co-founder of Hautlence, and Director of Product Development at Ralph Lauren Watches & Jewelry) and Aurélien Theurillat of GLS2F, which specializes in design, sourcing, and supply chains. The lineup also includes Romeo Granito of Cadranor, which has previously done the dial finishes for Havid Nagan. Finally, the team at Jean-Rousseau will be making the straps. The Classic One goes in a different direction from the HN00 and HN01 with a more traditional case design that is inspired by pieces like the Parmigiani Tonic and the Daniel Roth-era Breguet Classique. Measuring 38mm wide and 9mm thick with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm, the Classic One ca...
Deployant
Leica opens a new flagship store in Singapore on February 18, 2025. Here is a report grand opening as well as pictures of the Leica Store.
Fratello
Nomos released the original Club Campus in 2017. The watches are inspired by the age-old tradition of purchasing or receiving a mechanical watch to symbolize a significant event or achievement. The German brand even offers to engrave the bare case back as part of the sale. Today, two new colorways, Starlight and Night Sky, join […] Visit To The Heavens With The New Nomos Club Campus Starlight And Night Sky to read the full article.
Monochrome
First presented in 2022, inspired by a popular model from the late 1990s (even though its design screams 1980s), the Citizen Tsuyosa instantly became a hit. And for obvious reasons… With its trendy design playing on the vibe of elegant sports watches, its vibrant and fun colours, its solid automatic movement and a rather unbeatable […]
Time+Tide
Citizen wisely takes its affordable Tsuyosa collection a step further with a new 37mm size that retains all of the on-trend elements.The post Citizen launches a 37mm size for its fan-favourite Tsuyosa Automatic line appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While the original Seamaster 300M from 2019 was a no-frills, James Bond-inspired watch, the Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold and Burgundy is a refined evolution of the design that employs Omega’s proprietary gold alloy. Used by Omega as well as its sister company Blancpain, Bronze Gold is an alloy of bronze, palladium, silver, and 37.5% gold - making it a 9k gold alloy - that has enhanced corrosion resistance while having the warm hue of bronze but without the accentuated patina that accompanies conventional versions of the metal. Aside from the Bronze Gold case and burgundy bezel, the design remains virtually unchanged, retaining the signature “twisted” lugs of the Seamaster. Initial thoughts Omega has introduced several variants of the model since the Seamaster 300M 007 Edition, among them the recent “No-Date”. This time-only design, which omits the date window, has enjoyed commercial success, highlighting the appeal of a cleaner dial, especially on a watch with some vintage flavour. In this context, the Seamaster 300M Bronze Gold is a natural evolution of the collection, bringing it upmarket as is the norm for a successful model. The upgrade, however, comes at a price. At US$13,900 on a rubber strap, the Bronze Gold edition is more than twice the price of the steel model. And the version on a matching Bronze Gold mesh bracelet costs a whopping US$27,900. Granted, the new Seamaster 300M is gold, but not really, since it’s a 9k alloy, which is far below th...
SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-five marks the 350th anniversary of the hairspring – it’s hard to believe the spiral ticking away in tens of millions of mechanical watches is already over three centuries old. The hairspring’s history is marked by revelations, disputes, and technical advancements, driven forward by creative horological minds, making the story of the hairspring a fascinating one. But behind all of that lies the question: who invented the hairspring? There are two familiar contenders for the title and it’ll take a deep dive into history to figure out who deserves credit. The motivation Prior to the invention of the hairspring, most timekeepers were clocks. Watches existed, but were essentially miniature clocks that still relied on some sort of gravity pendulum, making such early watches wildly inaccurate. So the hairspring was born of necessity, the need to transform clunky, stationary clocks into relatively precise portable timekeepers. By the mid 17th century, Dutch mathematician and physicist Christiaan Huygens (1629-1695) had already demonstrated a swinging pendulum could indeed serve as a reliable base unit of time measurement for a mechanical timekeeper. He designed his own cycloidal pendulum clocks equipped with oscillating bobs that were only dependent on gravitational acceleration and the cord’s length, making them true isochronous timekeepers. The first such clock was built in 1657 with the help of clockmaker Salomon Coster. “Isochronous” refers to an o...
Fratello
Praesidus has quickly become the go-to brand for military-inspired watches. The company specializes in creating timepieces that recall historical military stories from different eras. On top of that, Praesidus offers incredible value for money. As a result, its watches have become popular storytellers and are hugely appreciated among fans. Last year’s D-Day 80th Commemoration series […] Visit Hands-On: The New Praesidus Iwo Jima 80th Anniversary A-11 Watches With Black Sand Dials to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
When it comes to “big” and “busy”, few do it better than the Citizen Promaster Navihawk. With a commanding presence packed with information, the aviation icon has always proven to be accessible in price, but not so much in size. That’s all changing, however, as Citizen unveils the 40mm Promaster Navihawk as part of their revamped Promaster Air collection. Designed to favor legibility and functionality, the 40mm Navihawk will look familiar to those who know the larger model. It features a stainless steel case with satin finishing, polished accents, and a knurled crown, ringed by a rotating slide rule bezel. Inside the flat sapphire crystal, a complementary internal flange borders a metallic dial, available in three colors-khaki green, copper, and silver. According to Citizen, the 40mm Navihawk features ⅕ second chronograph timing up to 60 minutes, and 12- and 24-hour time displays. Three black chronograph subdials take up the bottom half of the dial, and a rotated date indicator sits between the 4 and 5 indices. To balance out the date’s stilted location, printed details proclaiming the 200m water resistance and the Navihawk logo occupy the same location on the other side, between the 7 and 8 indices. Inside, the 40mm Navihawk upholds the original model’s reputation of reliability and practicality. Citizen’s proprietary Caliber B620 Eco-Drive movement utilizes solar power to keep the watch running without use of a battery-very handy for those wit...
Hodinkee
After a decade of development, G-Shock is unveiling its new 'Tough Silicone' in six new releases.
Worn & Wound
When you collect watches, you also somewhat inadvertently collect a bunch of other things. You might realize it until you get pretty deep into the hobby, but it’s almost impossible to avoid acquiring a whole host of accessories for storing, cleaning, admiring, and tinkering with your watches. Over the years, we’ve tried tools, cases, and accessories in a bunch of other categories, and have naturally developed some preferences. Here, Kat Shoulders and Zach Kazan walk you through some of their personal favorites from their own stash. Let us know in the comments what watch related accessories you can’t live without. Zach Kazan Valet tray A valet tray is in some ways impossibly simple. Usually made from leather, they are small trays, often with buttons at the corners, made catching stray items that you might dump from your pockets upon returning home. Keys, wallets, loose change – you get the idea. Though not a watch accessory per se, they make a ton of sense if you have more than a few watches in your life and just need a place to put them from time to time. I have a few valet trays on my desk at home. One is large enough to handle all the things these trays were really meant for, and is where you’ll often find my AirPods, a memory card or two, maybe some cash (nothing larger than a five spot, sorry) and a pen. The other is smaller, and perfectly sized for two watches. If I’m going to typing for an extended period of time and don’t want the feel of a wat...
SJX Watches
Hermès’ myriad interpretations of its signature motif ranges from the comic to the complicated. The Slim d’Hermès Cheval Brossé, on the other hand, is elegantly abstract. Retaining the familiar 39.5 mm case design of the “Slim” model, this features a meticulously handcrafted dial depicting a stylised horse rendered in brushstrokes. Unusually, the “Cheval Brossé” dial is the result of both artisanal and mechanical techniques: the base is traditional, hand-made grand feu enamel, while the horse is pad printed in multiple runs for each colour. Initial thoughts While the equestrian motif is repeated often, the versatility and creativity of Hermès’ design department allows the theme to stay fresh. The Cheval Brossé illustrates this: while the horse is recognisably Hermès in form and flavour, it is still striking different from prior models. Compared to several of Hermès’ other métiers d’art watches that tend to be more elaborate, the Cheval Brossé – French for “brushed horse” – possesses an understated aesthetic with its abstractly rendered horse set against the pristine blue enamel dial. Though the dial is simple, the “brushstrokes” that make up the horse give the dial a surprising degree of motion. The combination of enamel and pad printing, while not unique, is uncommon. Though this means the dial doesn’t boast the full-fledged artisanal craft, it certainly makes the watch more affordable. Sky blue enamel As is typical for a metie...
Monochrome
Presented in 2023, the Bovet Virtuoso XI is a masterpiece of high watchmaking, combining exquisite skeletonization, intricate hand-engraving, and meticulous hand-finishing… without mentioning an in-house movement with flying tourbillon and solid 10-day power reserve. Following the release of the original white gold versions, this typically Bovet watch is now available in 18k red gold, with […]
Fratello
It has been a few years since I wrote The Vintage Rolex Datejust Buyer’s & Collector’s Guide. In fact, I no longer sell the book, and it is a closed chapter of my life. Still, the mighty DJ remains a major soft spot for me. So when Nacho asked me to write a Pre-Owned Spotlight […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Vintage Rolex Datejust Offerings I Can’t Refuse to read the full article.
Fratello
In this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, we’re making a public service announcement: don’t let money stop you from enjoying watches! This topic is close to our hearts and has come up more than once at Fratello HQ lately. So today Nacho, Lex, and Thomas gather around the microphones and hash out their thoughts on […] Visit Fratello Talks: Don’t Let Money Stop You From Enjoying Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Over the last several years we’ve seen all kinds of models pop up for the creation and distribution of limited edition watches. It’s becoming more and more clear that this most recent period in watch enthusiast history will almost certainly be known as the “Limited Edition Boom,” or something along those lines. Look at the pages of any watch media website, including this one, and you’ll find that news items about various LEs and collaborations dominate the conversation, so it’s no wonder that a cottage industry has sprung up to develop these kinds of watches specifically. Watch Angels is one such platform seeking to provide an ecosystem for brands (mostly independent) to create limited edition versions of watches that are funded by the eventual purchasers. It’s like the old souscription model crossed with Kickstater, with the main difference between Watch Angels and typical crowdfunding mechanisms being that these projects are largely one-offs from already established brands, and not debut collections from a start-up enterprise. Frederique Constant, certainly not a brand most observers would expect to dabble in a crowdfunding project, is the latest to partner with Watch Angels on a new limited edition release. The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture seen here is a new and slightly more refined spin on a signature Frederique Constant complication. They’ve been making some version of this watch since 2012 (remember their 10th anniversary worldtimer t...
Worn & Wound
Sometimes we lose sight of the fact that our enthusiast romance associated with a mechanical movement can be another’s annoyance. Our beloved rituals of winding and setting, feeling the grinding clicks in your fingertips, and double-checking you’ve set it correctly can act as a barrier to entry for some, leaving a mechanical watch inside a dresser drawer. That is why I am a proponent of luxury brands exploring quartz calibers, particularly within their more popular collections. Removing that barrier and often lowering its price point means that the watch and the hobby as a whole can be accessed by more people, which is the ultimate goal, after all. All that being said, if a luxury brand is going to make a quartz watch and charge a luxury price, you have to make it a good one. Stepping off of my soap box, I’ll happily admit that when TAG Heuer released the Aquaracer with a solar quartz caliber inside, I too scoffed at the price and questioned its purpose. While the design language spoke to me with its warmly hued titanium construction and tasteful accents, I just didn’t understand why TAG Heuer would charge a price many multiples of what other solar quartz calibers commonly sell for. That was until I had the opportunity to have a period of hands-on time with it. I found myself enjoying its lightweight yet solid construction, the fun application of lume, and even became a bit enamored by the angular case lines, which had previously been a bit off-putting. So when I s...
Teddy Baldassarre
Omega has been on a tear with what I would call a series of the “worst-kept secrets in watches.” This was kicked off by the white Omega Speedmaster, furthered by the black aluminum Seamaster Diver 300m, and then punctuated by a watch “surprise” launched this morning: a new, full-bronze-gold Omega Seamaster Diver 300m. All of these watches have one thing in common: They were each teased (read, spoiled) by former James Bond actor and Omega ambassador Daniel Craig as he wore them out in the world ahead of launch. I, for one, am not too perturbed by this sequence of events. I tend to think that there is no such thing as a spoiled surprise. As a friend of mine once told me, you don’t really spoil a surprise; you merely surprise someone earlier. So let’s examine a new watch that feels like it’s been in our lives for months now – because it has. This one takes its design from from the No Time To Die Seamaster Diver 300m both in look and material. We have the mesh bracelet working against the well known SMP300 case design. Additionally, we have an aluminum bezel insert in a burgundy color which pairs with what appears to be a matte textured black dial, which Omega calls sandblasted. This is an effect I want to see in person. The NTTD dial was a more brownish hue and almost smooth, and the recent black-dial version brought the updated small wave pattern. So this is effectively a new dial texture for the format. Finishing off the dial is text done in a brown colorat...
Monochrome
A relatively young brand founded in 2014 and based in Paris, France, the brainchild of childhood friends Ambroise and Adrien, Charlie Paris aims at delivering nice designs and solid watch content at fair prices. And the brand already carries quite a solid portfolio of models, such as the sporty Concordia we’ve covered already. But today, […]
Fratello
One of the things I loved best about being a Panerai owner was changing straps regularly. By swapping their “shoes,” the look of the Panerai watches drastically changed. Unfortunately, REM Straps did not exist at the time. We got to know the folks at the company very well during our partnership on Speedmaster straps. Quality […] Visit Introducing: REM Firenze Legends Straps to read the full article.
Deployant
We continue onto our next chapter of our Vertical Collection Series wih F.P.Journe, yet another iconic maison, with such a rich collection of masterpieces.
Monochrome
The long-awaited No-Date Seamaster Diver 300M… Teased during the summer, finally released in steel versions in late 2024. Deeply inspired by the No Time to Die edition once worn on screen by 007, this new sub-collection within the SM300 range got the vintage touch in addition to being free of its date window, domed sapphire […]
Fratello
By now, we are used to catching glimpses of future Omega Seamaster Diver 300M releases on Daniel Craig’s wrist. Despite his retirement as 007, Craig is the Biel-based brand’s go-to ambassador for new Seamaster variants. And with great success, we might add. The online watch universe goes wild whenever the British actor straps a yet-to-be-released […] Visit Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M In Bronze Gold And Burgundy to read the full article.
Fratello
If you like the odd thematic special edition, Hublot is the brand to follow. Today, we get an interesting new watch from the Nyon-based outfit. This is the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne. You quite literally get a piece of Lucerne if you purchase this watch, so if the Swiss city carries meaning to […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne to read the full article.
Monochrome
Accomplished third-generation Dutch watchmakers Tim and Bart Grönefeld released their first watch in 2008, a complex minute repeater and tourbillon that set the tone for the brand’s trajectory. Trained in Switzerland, the Horological Brothers set up their atelier in their hometown, Oldenzaal, and are renowned for their reduced but horologically rich offering of exquisite handmade […]
Fratello
Here’s a question that might surprise you: who’s your favorite Bruce Wayne? Your answer doesn’t necessarily also mean he’s your favorite Batman. So, who is it? Is it George Clooney because of his undebatable good looks? Perhaps it’s Robert Pattinson, although, in The Batman, there are just a few scenes in which he plays the […] Visit Contemplating The Rolex GMT-Master II “Bruce Wayne” - Nowhere Near As Flamboyant Or Intriguing As Its Namesake Character to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Amidst the three and four-figure divers that dominate the market, Citizen has a reputation for being the everyman’s watch. Though the brand offers a variety of styles and price points, their dive watches tend to be one of the most popular options amongst their fan base. Launched in 1989, the Promaster series was developed with the goal of providing professional-grade, reliable watches for divers and outdoor enthusiasts. The first Promaster dive watch was equipped with advanced features like a high-water resistance rating, luminous hands for visibility underwater, and a rotating bezel to track elapsed time.These Promasters featured an arrow logo, symbolizing the watch’s ability to “go higher and deeper” than Citizen’s previous collections. This arrow is still included on the crown of modern Promaster references, tying these new releases into a longer history of one of the brand’s favored series. Citizen made waves in the summer of 2023 when they released a smaller version of their Eco-Drive divers. Those releases brought the Eco-Drive Promaster, traditionally sized 44mm, into the realm of the smaller-wristed by shaving off a whopping seven millimeters. These options came in three dial colors: gray, blue, and black, and all had a color-matched bezel. Three more colorways were debuted this past December, which included purple, blue, and red dial options. Along with the new colors, the brand made some aesthetic changes to these 37mm divers. Though the three color...
Teddy Baldassarre
RGM Watch Company, named for the initials of its founder, independent watchmaker Roland G. Murphy, is the first American watch company to serially produce a mechanical watch movement since 1969 — the year that Lancaster, PA-based Hamilton pulled up stakes for its current HQ in Switzerland. Murphy, formerly Hamilton’s Technical Manager, founded his own eponymous company in Lancaster County, a historical hotbed of watchmaking, in 1992. His fledgling firm made the watch industry, and the worldwide watch-enthusiast community, take notice when it created, essentially from scratch, the groundbreaking Caliber 801 in 2007 — a horological milestone that no other watchmaker in the United States had achieved in nearly 40 years. Since then, Caliber 801 has come to define RGM’s distinctive and still very exclusive product family — the brand still makes only around 300 pieces annually — along with its dedication to classically vintage aesthetics, which evoke the bygone days when America reigned supreme as a watchmaking nation. Up until now, however, the smallest RGM watch you could get that housed the Caliber 801 movement, 90 percent of which is made in the U.S.A. and finished and assembled in Lancaster County, was 42mm — not huge, but still a bit intimidating for some would-be owners as case sizes continue to trend smaller. This week, RGM answers that constituency's prayers with the release of the Caliber 801/40 model, whose 40mm stainless steel case represents, accor...
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