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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery SJX Watches
Richard Mille Feb 18, 2025

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery

IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...

Bremont Extends the Terra Nova Range with Bronze References Worn & Wound
Bremont Extends Feb 18, 2025

Bremont Extends the Terra Nova Range with Bronze References

Last week, Bremont - the British brand in the midst of what could conservatively be called one of the most dramatic about faces we’ve seen from a watch brand in recent memory - dropped their first novelties of the year, a trio of bronze field watches in their Terra Nova collection. Bremont first introduced the Terra Nova collection at Watches and Wonders last year alongside a new brand identity, all of which was greeted by a decidedly mixed reaction from critics and fans alike. Now, almost a year on from the collection’s initial launch, Bemont has taken each of the three core models in the Terra Nova lineup - the aptly named Date, Power Reserve, and Chronograph - and given them the full bronze treatment, along with new horizontal gradient dial colors; green for the Date and Chronograph, caramel brown (which we first saw on a limited edition steel Terra Nova Date late last year) for the Power Reserve. Bronze has long been a tool in Bremont’s quiver - both in full bronze configurations or as an accent on watches like the S302 - but here, the brand has opted to step up their materials game by using “Cupro-Aluminium Bronze,” a high-tech alloy that adds silicon and aluminum into the mix. Bronze is typically made up of a blend of about ~90% copper and ~10% tin, and I can’t speak to how much of that has been substituted for silicon and aluminum, but I can tell you that Cupro-Aluminum Bronze boasts several advantages over more traditional blends. Namely, it...

The Rare 1994 Platinum Omega Speedmaster Skeleton By Armin Strom Fratello
Armin Strom Feb 18, 2025

The Rare 1994 Platinum Omega Speedmaster Skeleton By Armin Strom

Of course, you are familiar with Omega and, most probably, Armin Strom as well. But did you know that Armin Strom, founder of the eponymous brand, was once the artisan doing all the skeleton work for Omega in the 1990s? Skeleton watches The art of movement skeletonization is old, and we still see it today […] Visit The Rare 1994 Platinum Omega Speedmaster Skeleton By Armin Strom to read the full article.

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces a New Tonda PF in Platinum Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces Feb 18, 2025

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces a New Tonda PF in Platinum

Among higher end Swiss watch brands, few have experienced a greater turnaround, at least on the surface, over the past several years than Parmigiani Fleurier. Parmigiani has always been a brand that knowledgable collectors and enthusiasts have praised and found a great deal of value in, but the brand itself didn’t always seem healthy. Before Guido Terreni took over in 2021, it would have been quite common to find heavily discounted Parmigianis on the gray market – a common symptom of overproducing too many references and not being able to find your core customer. Under Terreni, the brand’s output has been streamlined and everything just seems more thought through. And while I don’t have insight into sales statistics, you certainly don’t see the brand’s current catalog selling for closeout prices on the discount sites, a sign that they’ve got production under control, at the very least.  One of the brand’s biggest gambits has been the exploring the integrated bracelet sports watch market with the Tonda PF collection. Launched at a time when every luxury brand was throwing their hat in the ring in this particular category, Parmigiani has sought to differentiate itself from competitors in the luxury integrated bracelet sports watch world by leaning into the luxury angle, and perhaps a little away from the sport. Inspired by a “sartorial approach” to watch design, the Tonda PF is all about feel, texture, and proportions in a manner similar to a bespoke sui...

Introducing – Seconde/Seconde Adds Safety to the Perrelet Turbine Monochrome
Feb 18, 2025

Introducing – Seconde/Seconde Adds Safety to the Perrelet Turbine

Perrelet, a member of the Festina Group (since 2004), which owns movement manufacturer Soprod, traces its roots back to 1777. Today, the brand is best known for its Turbine collection, which was first introduced in 2009. These distinctive timepieces feature an oscillating weight on the back and a series of turbine blades on the front that spin freely with wrist movement, revealing the dial beneath. The dynamic Turbine dials provide a canvas for creativity, and over the years, Perrelet has embraced experimentation with models like the Splash, Hypnotic, Royal Flush, Rainbow, Erotica, and Skull. The brand's latest partnership with seconde/seconde pushes the whimsy even further, bringing the playful "Safety First" concept to life on the dial.

Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 2 Fratello
Feb 18, 2025

Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 2

Welcome back to Fratello On Air! This week, we tackle the second half of our discussion on vintage chronographs. We get into the weeds in this episode, so we hope you like it nerdy! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Last week, we kicked off this […] Visit Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 2 to read the full article.

Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff × Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Watch Fratello
Hamilton fight Feb 18, 2025

Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff × Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Watch

A couple of big questions are at the top of my mind ahead of the upcoming Formula 1 season. Will Max Verstappen once again become world champion? Can Lewis Hamilton fight for his eighth world title in a Ferrari? And also, will Mercedes-AMG Petronas be back on top after a few difficult years? One thing […] Visit Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff × Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Watch to read the full article.

Industry News – Morgan Stanley’s Top 50 Watch Brands for 2024, Rolex Still by far the Leader, Overall Market Suffered Monochrome
Rolex Still Feb 17, 2025

Industry News – Morgan Stanley’s Top 50 Watch Brands for 2024, Rolex Still by far the Leader, Overall Market Suffered

Like every year and for now eight consecutive times, Swiss watch industry consultancy firm LuxeConsult and financial institution Morgan Stanley have worked together to bring their annual report of the Swiss watch industry, and the estimated revenues of the top 50 brands. While the 2023 report showed records for the market, it also indicated the […]

The Seiko Orange Monster SKX781: Why the First Generation is Still an International Superstar in 2025 Worn & Wound
Seiko Orange Monster SKX781 Why Feb 17, 2025

The Seiko Orange Monster SKX781: Why the First Generation is Still an International Superstar in 2025

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is an idiom that will seemingly always ring true throughout the watch industry for brands of all different origins and ages. There are certain watch models that are so easily recognizable because of their distinctive and timeless looks, and while other companies eventually attempt to replicate them and hopefully attain the same amount of success, they can never truly capture the essence of the original. The Seiko Orange Monster may not be everyone’s cup of tea. It’s a girthy diver with a bright dial, large lume-filled indices, and a heavy-duty stainless-steel shroud that I’m quite positive would look amiss with a three-piece suit. That being said, however, millions worldwide have embraced its robust and striking aesthetics over the years. The First-Generation models, while similar to their successors on the surface, have cemented themselves as cult classics within the collector sphere. Why? For a few reasons, I think.  Reason 1: An Overall Oddity with Near Perfect Proportions  When the Monster series was first announced, there was nothing quite like it on the market. Reception upon its initial release of reference SKX781 in 2000 was polarizing––some found the ambitious design, for lack of a better term, ugly. As time went on, more and more skeptics began to fall for its unique aesthetics and Seiko, noticing this trend, continued production of the Monster series for over two decades with minor tweaks here and there. The ...

First Look – Hublot Unveils Magic Ceramic, Claimed to be the World’s First Multicoloured Ceramic Monochrome
Hublot Unveils Magic Ceramic Claimed Feb 17, 2025

First Look – Hublot Unveils Magic Ceramic, Claimed to be the World’s First Multicoloured Ceramic

When it comes to ceramic watches, Hublot has, over the years, managed to be one of the most creative brands by achieving cases and parts in the brightest possible colours imaginable (green, orange, light blue, yellow, sand…) Obtaining strong colours on ceramic is more difficult than many imagine, the base material – ZrO2 Zirconium Oxide […]

First Look – The New Louis Vuitton Tambour Ceramic Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Tambour Ceramic Louis Vuitton Feb 17, 2025

First Look – The New Louis Vuitton Tambour Ceramic

Louis Vuitton is at the apex of the luxury ladder, recognised worldwide for its high-quality leather goods and accessories emblazoned with the iconic LV monogram. Although the Maison’s history dates back to 1854, watches didn’t materialise in LV’s portfolio until 2002 with the release of the Tambour. After 20 years of loyal service, the Tambour […]

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Goes Upmarket with Ceramic and Gemstones SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Tambour Goes Upmarket Feb 17, 2025

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Goes Upmarket with Ceramic and Gemstones

During the recent LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton revealed new, luxe variants of its Tambour (alongside the unexpected Convergence). Originally launched in relatively conservative guises, the slim sports watch now gets more interesting – and pricey – with the use of ceramic and gemstones. A nod to the brand’s monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic is a mix of brushed brown ceramic and 18k pink gold. And the pair of “High End” models is made up of the Tambour Platinum Rainbow sporting sapphires and rubies (pictured above), and the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx that’s set with orange sapphires. The Tambour Ceramic Initial thoughts I like the Tambour because it’s an appealing design that wears notably well. The thin case sits flat on the wrist and the feel is elegant. Though the styling is more subtle than earlier versions of the Tambour, most of which were large and chunky, the new Tambour is still a recognisable design that retains elements of the drum-like originals. The new versions are appealing for the same reason, but upgraded in terms of materials. There’s nothing to complain about, except the cost. The ceramic model is €75,000 while the platinum “rainbow” is €150,000 – fair relative to the market but still hefty. These are on par with equivalent watches from comparable brands, and the small number made help rationalise the numbers. The Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx is a limited edition of just 30 However, the new Tambour models share the same LFT023.01 f...

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Grand Seiko Baltic Feb 16, 2025

A Week in Watches Ep. 99: Grand Seiko, Baltic, and More!

On Episode 99 of A Week in Watches, Zach takes us through a few new releases and ends on a brand-obit. First up are a few new models from Grand Seiko that, shocker, are inspired by nature. Next is a look at a new take on the Hermétique sport/field watch by Baltic with added functionality. After, it’s over to Germany to check out the new and very impressive watches by Jochen Benzinger. Finally, it’s time to bid farewell to Carl F. Bucherer. The DIY Watch Club sponsors this episode of A Week in Watches. Building a watch will elevate your appreciation for timepieces. Perfect bezel alignment? Blued steel hands? Mind-blowing lume? With DIY Watch Club, you get to experience the craftsmanship firsthand and gain a whole new level of appreciation for your watches. Learn more here The post A Week in Watches Ep. 99: Grand Seiko, Baltic, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On With The Intriguing Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux” Fratello
Konstantin Chaykin Feb 16, 2025

Hands-On With The Intriguing Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux”

A continuous jovial smile in the often overserious world of watches comes courtesy of Konstantin Chaykin. With the debut of the Joker in 2017, the Russian watchmaker introduced the Wristmons collection of watches that combines fun with serious watchmaking. Over the past seven years, he has created 40 characters for the series. The sheer number […] Visit Hands-On With The Intriguing Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux” to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: H. Moser Opens their First US Boutique, the Friendship Trailer, and a Familiar Face Enters the Watch Industry Worn & Wound
H. Moser Opens their First US Feb 15, 2025

Watches, Stories, & Gear: H. Moser Opens their First US Boutique, the Friendship Trailer, and a Familiar Face Enters the Watch Industry

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Fred Savage Enters the Vintage Watch Verification Game  While actor Fred Savage is still mostly associated with his iconic run as Kevin Arnold in The Wonder Years, his stock has risen in recent years within the watch community, coming out as a serious collector, particularly of vintage watches. Now he’s turning that enthusiasm into a new business venture, Timepiece Grading Specialists. The mission of TGS is to provide authentication and valuation services to vintage watch collectors (they’ll also provide services like, well, servicing, and storage, for additional fees), and as this article in the New York Times notes, watches that have passed through TGS have already been sold at auction via Sotheby’s, complete with their TGS assessment. We’ve seen many celebrities embrace the watch community, but few have taken the step of entrepreneurship in the way Savage has, so it will be interesting to see how he fares in the notoriously fraught world of vintage watch authentication.  Gary Gets a Suit  Several years back, Gary Shteyngart achieved a level of viral fame in the watch co...

Getting PADI Diving Certified With My Tudor Black Bay 58 Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 Getting Feb 15, 2025

Getting PADI Diving Certified With My Tudor Black Bay 58

Getting your ocean-capable watches wet has been a mantra I’ve taken to countless reviews. But long have I postponed taking my dive watch, the blue Tudor Black Bay 58, scuba diving. The reasons are many. Frankly, though, none of them are good enough to justify how someone (a passionate ocean enthusiast, at that) who lives […] Visit Getting PADI Diving Certified With My Tudor Black Bay 58 to read the full article.

Introducing: Bvlgari And MB&F; Turn The Serpenti Into A Horological Machine Fratello
Bvlgari Feb 15, 2025

Introducing: Bvlgari And MB&F; Turn The Serpenti Into A Horological Machine

Of course, we can’t buy all the watches in the world, and not all watches are within our budgets. So, especially as someone who professionally writes about watches, I’ve learned to appreciate ones that are not in my financial scope or simply not my style. In some cases, that’s harder to do than in others. […] Visit Introducing: Bvlgari And MB&F; Turn The Serpenti Into A Horological Machine to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Funky Speedmaster, a Hamilton LED, and a Beautiful Benrus with the Full Kit Worn & Wound
Hamilton LED Feb 14, 2025

eBay Finds: A Funky Speedmaster, a Hamilton LED, and a Beautiful Benrus with the Full Kit

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Benrus Starting off this week with a classic Benrus 3 Star vintage dress watch. The yellow gold fill case has a nice slim bezel and slim lugs, and is in excellent condition. The silver dial has a really neat radial brushed finish that radiates outward to the right from the 9 o’clock side, very unusual. There is a gold framed round date window at 6 o’clock that has a matching round date magnifier window in the original acrylic crystal. The watch comes on a gold tone stretch bracelet that probably isn’t original but is definitely period correct. This gem comes in the original Benrus box. Runs well per the seller, but no picture of the automatic movement.  View auction here Vintage Hamilton LED Watch Another week, another vintage LED watch. These seem to be coming out of the woodwork lately for some reason. But I’m glad they are because they are just too retro-cool. This example is a vintage Hamilton with its original bracelet and box and hangtag. The watch is gold plated, with a slim, space-age case and integrated bracelet. The seller states the bracelet will fit a 7.25” wrist max, and snugly at that, so keep this in mind if you have a larger wrist. The watch runs, and ...