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Editors' Picks: Hodinkee Secret Santa - The Best $50 We Ever Spent
Our answer to the age-old question: What do you get your coworkers with a limited budget and limited time, especially if they are watch fanatics?
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Hodinkee
Our answer to the age-old question: What do you get your coworkers with a limited budget and limited time, especially if they are watch fanatics?
Time+Tide
In this intermittent new series, we’ll be looking to highlight the most interesting new independent pieces that we come across, and that we feel don’t get as much love as they deserve. Before we discuss the watch itself, we’ll dive into a brief history of the brand, hopefully bringing some more attention to fantastic independent … ContinuedThe post The Independedit: Habring² Doppel 38 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
A common question in watch servicing/restoration is, "Who does the 'best' work?" In a word (or three), what is meant here is superficial case refinishing. And in other words: huge chamfers on Rolex cases, perfectly flat surfaces, and well executed sunburst patterns. And that's got Ashton Tracy ranting. Find out why here!
Hodinkee
Our watch-related movie of the week sees "Small Watch" Gosling make 34mm (and tap dancing) look good.
Time+Tide
One thing watch enthusiasts often do is dismiss “off the shelf” calibres. The allure and buzz of “in-house” movements has cast a dismissing shadow over mass-produced calibres. But, like many other things in life, sometimes it is more about how you use it than anything else. I will not deny it, standard ETA and Sellita … ContinuedThe post Workhorse makeover: “Off the shelf” calibres can be pretty too – ETA/Peseux 7001 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Allow me start off with a recent watch acquisition story. Last month, I was travelling for work and ended up with a few hours to kill on a Friday afternoon after meetings wrapped up. I asked my colleagues that lived locally for a recommendation on where to go and check out some nice watches. They pointed … ContinuedThe post How to be a better customer – from a guy who just randomly picked up a new Rolex DJ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
No matter the budget, we have the perfect gift for the watch enthusiast in your life.
SJX Watches
While Blancpain is best known for its retro dive watches and triple calendars, the brand’s catalogue includes a surprisingly broad range of complications, especially for a brand of its scale (but the fact that the brand is part of Swatch Group clearly helps). One of its most interesting recent complications is the Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde, the first Blancpain watch with either a jumping hours or retrograde display. Despite the lengthy name, the Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde, from now on simply THSMR, is a simple watch on its face, but one executed in an elaborate manner with details that speak to its quality. The dial is champlevé enamel with a symmetrical time display and “floating” flying tourbillon, while the movement has a six-day power reserve and bridges finished with guilloche. Initial thoughts Unlike most of Blancpain’s complications that formal and busy, the THSMR is an elegant watch with an almost minimalist design. The fired enamel dial has a figure-of-eight display that gives it almost perfect symmetry, except for the charmingly quirky hour window that is off-centre but just right. And up close the tourbillon appears to be “floating” thanks to a clear sapphire lower bridge. It is a fairly large watch as most Blancpain watches now are, though it’s not too thick at just over 11 mm high. But the size is grounded in its mechanics: the cal. 260MR is a sizeable movement with an impressive six-day power r...
Hodinkee
When F.P. Journe unveiled his Octa Sports line of watches back in 2011, we (the royal watch collecting "we") could simply not believe how light they were. After all, the F.P. Journe "lineSport" pieces, being the Octa Sport and the Centrigraphe (CTS), were made entirely of aluminum. Yes, aluminum! They were so light, they almost felt fake (seriously). They were not fake, they were just absurdly light, and absurdly cool.
Time+Tide
The first time I set foot in a luxury watch boutique was for a sim racing competition in 2019, driving a GT3 car around the Hungaroring. I won a pen, notebook, and baseball cap for my third place ranking, and figured that I’d pretty much peaked in my sim racing career. IWC went down a … ContinuedThe post Start your (virtual) engines… The IWC Esports Challenge at Battersea Power Station appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hodinkee
You can get your hands on a dino-themed watch stand from one of the world's top watchmakers and do some good.
Hodinkee
A host of hidden gems means we have a vintage watch for everyone on your holiday list this year.
Time+Tide
In Tulsa King, Sylvester Stallone's character wears a watch that's entirely consistent with his mafia lifestyle.The post In Tulsa King, Stallone upholds the unlikely tradition of mobster watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Continuing its annual tradition of commemorative editions for the Chinese Lunar Year, Breguet introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of the Water Rabbit set to start in January 2023. While last year’s “Tiger” edition was a men’s watch with a hand-engraved dial, this year’s watch is artisanal yet whimsical in a manner that is atypical for the typically conservative brand. Initial thoughts It is always lovely to see a timepiece that makes you smile, especially from a brand that is usually formal. While Breguet debuts special editions regularly, it often utilises guilloche for the dials, as is the brand’s trademark. So the playful dial on the Classique 9075 is refreshing. The prancing-rabbit motif manages to be whimsical without being bold and loud, and still retains the elegance and grace expected of Breguet. And of course the grand feu enamel dial is executed with intricate detail and craftsmanship. The Classique 9075, however, is a women’s watch, not because of the design but the compact case diameter of 33.5 mm as well as the diamonds on the bezel and lugs. A masculine version – scaled up and sans diamonds – would certainly have appeal for male enthusiasts. At CHF43,000, the Classique 9075 is priced in the same ballpark as comparable models in the regular production collection, making it a compelling alternative to the average Breguet. But it will only be an alternative for very few as the watch is limited to o...
SJX Watches
Seiko made history when it produced the first-ever made-in-Japan wristwatch in 1913. Known as the Laurel, the 1913 wristwatch was typical of the era when pocket watches were evolving into wristwatches. To mark the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, Seiko debuts the Presage Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary ref. SPB359. Featuring a fired enamel dial, the Presage 110th Anniversary is modelled on the 1913 original, right down to the case reminiscent of a pocket watch. Initial thoughts Seiko regularly rolls out Presage limited editions with dials ranging from porcelain to Japanese lacquer, but all share the same case style despite the diversity in dials. In contrast, the Presage 110th Anniversary is refreshingly different and unique within the Presage line-up. Not only is the case executed in the style of an early 20th century watch, it is also more compact than the typical Presage, measuring at 37.5 mm in diameter instead of the usual 40.5 mm. That said, the new Presage is still fairly thick at over 12 mm high as a consequence of the movement inside. Both the case design and dimensions give it a distinctly different look and feel from past Presage models. This means the anniversary edition has appeal even for someone who already owns a past Presage model. And as expected for Seiko, the Presage 110th Anniversary is solid value with a retail price of about US$2,000. The 1913 Laurel in the Seiko Museum Retro styling Entirely polished and stainless steel, the case of t...
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Hodinkee
Summer, meet watch.
Deployant
French independent watch releases two modestly priced watches with meteorite dials - a 39mm stainless steel case and a 41mm carbon/ceramic watch.
SJX Watches
A horological influencer in the Middle East, Hassan Akhras is behind the magazine Arab Watch Guide and Arab Watch Club (AWC), a community of collectors in the region. Like other regional clubs, the AWC has its share of limited editions made for its members, with the latest being the Piaget Polo Chronograph “Hope” Arab Watch Club Edition. Made to celebrate the seventh anniversary of the club, the edition is Mr Akhras’ first project with Piaget. Initial thoughts Special editions made for the Middle East usually intrigue me because they often have elements specific to the region, including the familiar Hindu-Arabic numerals on the dial. The Polo “Hope” takes a more subtle approach instead of the more overt styling often found on watches for the region. While the dial is eye-catching in its colour, the Hindu-Arabic numerals are found only on the chronograph registers and date wheel. Aside from the Hindu-Arabic numerals, the palette makes the Polo “Hope” an attractive watch. It’s distinctly different from the variants of the model to date. And even in its original form, the Polo S Chronograph has appealing dimensions at 42 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm in height. It’s a large, sporty watch but slim enough to slip underneath a cuff. Sadly, this timepiece is exclusive to its membership of the Arab Watch Club, and all 30 pieces have been sold out. First of many While Piaget has done limited editions for specific countries, the brand had not teamed up with a c...
Time+Tide
RZE cemented themselves in my mind as one of the best value microbrands when they released their Valour 38 field watch for under US$300, and their latest release only solidifies that title with some exciting new features. The RZE Ascentus GMT merges their well-established design style with sensible dimensions, and bang-for-buck features with a little … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Ascentus GMT delivers serious bang-for-buck in a titanium case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
When De Bethune released the new DB25s Perpetual Calendar at Geneva Watch Days 2022, the main talking point was just how much the model had shrunk from its previous iterations to become a more perfect proportion. And like any good diet consultation, it was the result of careful and deliberate attention paid to the watch as a whole and how components worked with each other.
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Hodinkee
"To me, the perfect adventure watch is one you don’t have to think about."
Quill & Pad
GaryG had the opportunity to borrow a Rolex GMT-Master II BLRO Meteorite from a long-time friend to photograph and wear. This watch's main event is the dial, a thin slice of metallic meteorite whose crystalline structure reflects the slow cooling process that took place as the meteor hurtled through space. Here he tries a variety of photographic techniques to learn which works best on the dial's unique structures. Which are your favorites?
Time+Tide
This has been a long year for those of us who write about watches. More than any year I can think of, it has provided what felt like an endless parade of new watch releases. So much so, that it’s easy for a brand or watch to get lost in the shuffle. Before you start … ContinuedThe post The top 3 Alpina releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The watch year 2022 saw the release of a variety of well-crafted, more affordable timepieces. Sabine Zwettler shares three of these watches from Bell & Ross, Longines, and Tutima Glashütte that caught her attention.
Time+Tide
One of my favourite watch brands, Farer, recently added a new chronograph to their line-up. Called the Chrono-Classic, it follows a long line of chronographs released from the brand. Yet, this new release is not just another chronograph for Farer. This watch sees them pushing through a glass ceiling as a microbrand and going upmarket. … ContinuedThe post Risky business: Are we ready for more microbrands going upmarket? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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