Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Square Crown Guard Submariner, A 'Paul Newman' Dial, And A Geneva Sport
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
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Hodinkee
![[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Vertex M60 Aqualion ND](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/02/Vertex-Owners-Review-22.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Vertex M60 Aqualion ND
“If you’ve heard the phrase ‘one-watch guy,’ you’re likely far beyond being one.” I’ve used that line a lot the last few years. In the last decade, the collective watch community has evangelized the ‘one-watch guy,’ transforming the concept from a simple idea into a lionized ideal rooted in the days when the Don Drapers of the world would get home from work, roll up their sleeves, and mow the lawn in cordovan loafers, Oxford cloth shirts, and a 4-digit Rolex. For better or for worse (honestly, mostly for better), we don’t live in that world anymore. Start looking around, and you’ll quickly realize that the modern one-watch guy is far more likely to own an Apple Watch or Garmin than a 1016. And yet, the theory of the ‘one-watch guy’ continues to permeate, no doubt helped along by people like me who keep writing story intros like this one. There’s a romantic simplicity to the idea; a sense that, if a collector can somehow encapsulate their taste into a single watch, they have achieved the ultimate in collecting prowess, or at least some advanced level of enthusiast zen. Generally, ‘zen’ is not a word I would use to describe myself, and I’m certainly not a one-watch guy, but I can understand why the concept holds appeal. In collecting, as in so many things, constraint can be a gift, forcing our own perspective into stark relief and keeping us accountable to our taste. From that perspective, a one-watch collection is the ultimate constraint, a...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Entry-Level Rolex Models
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re highlighting the best entry-level Rolex models you can buy pre-owned for an affordable price. A few weeks ago, we looked at five great Rolex Datejusts. While searching for the best picks, I saw many more great non-Datejust options. That inspired this week’s list of five pre-owned Rolex models […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Entry-Level Rolex Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Grand Seiko Unveils Three Cherry Blossom-Themed 62GS Watches, Including a New, Smaller Size
Grand Seiko anticipates the cherry blossom season in Japan – Sakura-Kakushi – with three models from its Heritage collection inspired by the annual blooming. Flaunting textured dials, one of Grand Seiko’s fortes, the new references respond to the current demand for more compact case sizes. Inspired by the design language laid down by Seiko’s first […]
SJX Watches
Industrial Designer Tej Chauhan Reimagines the Rado DiaStar
Rado taps Tej Chauhan for a new evolution of its 1970s-inspired ceramic wristwatch in the second collaboration between the watch brand and the British industrial designer. Featuring ceramic-metal composite bezel in a yellow gold PVD-coating, the DiaStar Original x Tej Chauhan Special Edition retains the signature helmet-shaped case, but sports a radial pattern also found on Mr Chauhan’s preceding Rado collaboration. And the day-date display utilises the designer’s own font in bold colours. Initial thoughts Rado is a pioneer in materials innovation for watch cases, having introduced the first “scratch-proof” watch in 1962 thanks to the use of a metal composite. The new edition continues that with the use of Ceramos, a tungsten carbide-ceramic composite, but adds flavour to the 1970s design with Tej Chauhan’s touch on the dial and hands. His additions to the design set it apart, but still remain coherently 1970s in style. The look is not for every, but it does well in being a 1970s-style design with a twist. As is typical for Rado, the new DiaStar is priced reasonably. It costs US$2,250, which is value considering the materials. Most of the competition’s watches with such features cost more. Arguably the only shortcoming is the Powermatic 80 movement. Though reliable and offering an 80-hour power reserve, it is also widely used in less expensive watches from Rado’s sister companies like Tissot. Helmet-shaped case Water-resistant to 100 m, the new DiaStar retain...
WatchAdvice
Hands On With The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing
This is a Hands-On Review with a difference. Why? Because this time, we are giving this very watch away with our friends at Fuel Asset Finance and Wallace Bishop Jewellers! What We Love A great tribute piece for F1 enthusiasts Wears well and smaller than the specs suggest The 1/100th second-hand is a bit of fun and something not all that common on chronographs What We Don’t Probably won’t suit everyone as an everyday piece The dial is a little busy, but still legible The quartz movement may not be for you if you love mechanical watches Overall Score: 8.1 / 10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Formula One over the past few years has seen a massive resurgence in popularity mostly thanks to the Netflix show Drive to Survive. And with the 2025 F1 season fast approaching next month, it will probably be another massive year with a long, jampacked calendar. And, as we have reported on previously TAG Heuer is now the new official timing partner for the next 10 years, so this review seems timely! We recently saw TAG Heuer release their new range of Formula 1 chronographs at LVMH watch week in January, but today we are looking at the limited edition TAG Heuer Formula 1 x Oracle Red Bull Racing limited edition chronograph that was released last year and the very watch that we are giving away in conjunction with Fuel Asset Finance and Wallace Bishop. So not only is this a review of this piece, but it’s a piece that you can go into...
SJX Watches
Review: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS SLGW005
Grand Seiko announced in September last year a vintage remake inspired by the 45GS of 1968, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation, which was launched as the SLGW005 in steel and the SLGW004 in yellow gold. In contrast to the many recent Grand Seiko releases with modern styling, the 45SG Re-creation is refreshing in being a revival of an iconic design, right down to the double-signed dial. Yet, the model also sports the brand’s latest generation manual-wind movement, the 9SA4. As the more accessible model of the two – retail is a little under US$10,000 – the steel SLGW005 deserves a closer look to understand how it smartly melds old and new. Initial thoughts Aesthetically, the SLGW005 stands out as a distinctively vintage design, from the case and dial to the buckle. This is all the more so since it is the first release since Grand Seiko’s rebranding in 2017, when all models eliminated “Seiko” in favour of only “Grand Seiko”, to feature the brand’s historical double-signed “Seiko” and “GS” dial. I am personally fond of this detail, as the double logo balances the dial aesthetically. But preferences aside, the external components are indeed excellent, from the dial work down to the faceted case. Despite the traditional exterior, the internals are modern – almost paradoxically so. Sporting the brand’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, the 9SA4 inside is entirely different than the 1960s cal. 4520 found in the 45GS. On paper, it is a high-s...
Time+Tide
The best and most random Seiko special editions
Seiko and limited editions - a match made in heaven. Here's some of the best.The post The best and most random Seiko special editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The Cleaner, Smaller 40mm Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture by Watch Angels
First introduced in 2012, the Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture quickly became one of the brand’s best-selling models for being an accessible take on the complication. Over the years, it has been released in various materials and colours, often as limited editions that are no longer available. While undeniably a handsome timepiece with strong credentials, […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton
There’s no sports watch that I have a stronger connection to than the Zenith Defy. I’ve long told anyone who would listen that the Defy is, bar none, my favorite sports watch collection. From its inception, the Defy has been a watch associated with pushing both design and watchmaking boundaries, through the use of uncommon materials, avant-garde designs, and over-the-top specs. For whatever sports watch from a major Swiss brand you can name, I could probably think of a Defy that matches it in terms of what it can do, and eclipses it in terms of the always hard to quantify cool factor. Yes, of course this is subjective. But, I mean, is it really? Now that we’ve established that I love the Defy potentially all out of proportion, we can consider the latest entry in the growing collection, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. This is a combination of words that were always meant to meet in the form of a Defy – the writing has been on the wall since the intro of the first Defy Skyline, or least since the introduction of the Skyline Chronograph. One of the nice things about the Defy, as a collection, is that it truly offers a different flavor of the core watch for every taste, with dials that are skeletonized, or not, cases that are made from steel, or ceramic, and now chronographs offering some of those same decision points. My feelings on the Defy Skyline collection oscillate quite a bit. Whenever I put one on, I can’t help but compare it in my mind to the Defy...
Teddy Baldassarre
Why This $20 Casio Forester Is Watch-Snob Approved
I will admit to being fairly hard to please when it comes to my watches. After a decade in watch media and several more years as an enthusiast, I’ve seen and handled just about every type and brand of watch out there, so, yeah, one gets a little jaded. But every now and then a watch comes along that is truly appealing with a price that isn’t accessible or affordable but actually just cheap. This Casio Forester is such a watch. This article contains no affiliate links or commission. Amidst the countless tributes to late U.S. President Jimmy Carter a few weeks ago, I noticed a photo I had never seen before in which he was wearing an ana-digi watch. After some sleuthing I learned it was a Casio Forester FT600WB-5BV, a watch I have never really thought about or even worn. Still I was intrigued by its Presidential provenance and got to Googling and, while the ana-digi seems to be discontinued, I was even more pleased to see a very attractive contemporary Casio Forester listed at just around $20 at several sellers including Amazon and Walmart. So I said, “What the hell?” and bought the FT500WC-3BVCF, which comes in a black and forest green colorway. I was tempted by the other two offerings as well: the all-black FT500WC-1BVCF and the brown/tan FT500WC-5BVCF. I’ll be honest and say my expectations were pretty low. I mean, we’re talking about a $20 watch in a resin case. Well, to my surprise, I kind of fell in love with it as soon as I opened up the packaging. The qual...
SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Refines the Worldtimer Manufacture
Known for its value-oriented timepieces, Frederique Constant partnered Swiss crowdfunding specialist Watch Angels to reimagine the Worldtimer Manufacture. Now in a 40 mm format with a cleaner aesthetic, the limited-edition of 718 pieces will only be available for purchase through Watch Angels’ online shop via a pre-order. Initial thoughts Frederique Constant has some interesting and accessible models, ranging from perpetual calendars to tourbillons and even a flexural pivot monolithic oscillator. The Geneva-based brand is mostly a player in the under-CHF5,000 segment, with a focus on in-house engineering. This latest iteration of the Worldtimer Manufacture is a good example of Frederique Constant’s approach to blending appealing designs with in-house mechanics, while keeping the price accessible. This new release builds on the successful Classic Worldtimer Manufacture collection, but with a streamlined design and reduced case size. It looks like Watch Angels took the lead with the design, opting for a clean layout, strong blue hues and sharp case lines. In contrast to the original that has a fussy design with a world map dial, the new version is functional but still elegantly detailed. The reduced case size, cleaner dial, and sharp finishing make this a compelling worldtime complication timepiece. Furthermore, the limited edition costs virtually the same as the regular production model, making this collaboration very appealing. More broadly, the partnership between Fr...
Monochrome
First Look – An Anthracite Dial for the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze
In just seven years, Norqain has consolidated its position as a producer of sporty, robust, adventure-inspired watches. Following its partnership with movement manufacture Kenissi in 2020, one of the first models to benefit from the deal was its traveller’s GMT model, the Freedom 60 GMT. Appearing with blue, green and brown dials, the latest bronze […]
Fratello
Modern Brands That Should Offer Quartz - Rolex, Omega, Ming, And More
Quartz movements were once seen as the ticking death knell of the mechanical watch industry. Many collectors scoff at these electronic pieces and will not consider them. However, there are pockets of enthusiasts who enjoy finely crafted quartz movements in equally well-made cases. Perhaps the largest knock on quartz is that its movements lack the […] Visit Modern Brands That Should Offer Quartz - Rolex, Omega, Ming, And More to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Building A €15,000 Watch Collection
Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks. In today’s episode, we’re taking on the challenge of building a €15,000 watch collection. Nacho, RJ, and Lex have crunched the numbers and leafed through the catalogs and each selected three modern (currently available at retail) watches that they would buy if they had a €15K budget. It’s a […] Visit Fratello Talks: Building A €15,000 Watch Collection to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Introduces Prospex Alpinist GMT SPB493J Limited Edition
Seiko’s Alpinist collection is welcoming a new member this week with the release of a new GMT reference featuring a dial inspired by the hornbill, a tropical bird of Southeast Asia. The watch is a Land Alpinist using the brand’s 6R54 caliber, and while this is an existing configuration released back in 2023, there are a few unique details here worth noting - from dial textures and colors to the black bezel piece. This watch is not only a celebration of the majestic hornbill, but also an expansion of the Alpinist platform that goes beyond the existing framework, hopefully opening the door to more expressive variations moving ahead. The Alpinist GMT was released in 2023 in what felt like a very natural move for the collection. As part of the Prospex Land family, the new Alpinist references utilized a fixed, 24-hour steel bezel and an internally rotating compass bezel. Use of the 6R54 allowed the addition of a 24-hour hand into the mix; however this is the so-called “caller” style of GMT hand, meaning the hour hand cannot be set independently on the go. Still, it’s a welcome addition to the modern series carrying forth Seiko’s historic Alpinist name, and retains the charming design of the original. This newest reference to the collection is the SPB493J, and it mixes up the formula just enough to stand apart from the rest. This watch uses base blacks set against the steel 39.5mm case and bracelet, with the inclusion of a deep green color used for the rotating inn...
Monochrome
Portrait – Dutch Watch Collector Paul, on Building his own Dream Dress Watch, the Angelier Classique
I’m pretty sure that at one point in every watch enthusiast’s life, the inspiration to design your own watch pops into your head. Through buying, owning and possibly selling watches, we tend to get a pretty good feeling of the pros and cons of what’s out there. The next step would be to put that […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Bremont Terra Nova Bronze Collection
Last year, the British watchmaker from Henley-on-Thames unveiled a Terra Nova collection of rugged field watches, drawing inspiration from early 20th-century military pocket watches. The timepieces, designed for functionality and practicality, featured stainless steel cushion-shaped cases with a low profile and short, tapered lugs. Their defining characteristics included a large push-in crown for easy operation […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Sarpaneva Moomin 80, a Fascinating Tale in Super-LumiNova
If you have kids, you’re probably familiar with the Moomins – the lovely, hippo-shaped fairy tale characters created by Finnish author Tove Jansson. First introduced in 1945, these charming creatures have inspired everything from books and comic strips to TV series, films, and theme parks. Their whimsical world also caught the eye of Finnish watchmaker […]
SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Adds “Digital” Hours to the Moomin Wristwatch
Sarpaneva returns to the Swedish comic, but this with a twist: the Moomin 80 features a skeletonised steel dial with a “shooting star” aperture that reveals the hours on a rotating disc. Making its debut in two versions, the latest Moomin edition retains the signature elements of its predecessors, including the familiar Sarpaneva case with flared flanks and a hand-finished dial filled with multi-coloured Super-Luminova. As with the Sarpaneva x Moomin release four years ago, the dial draws inspiration from a comic book scene. Initial thoughts This is the third Moomin edition, with the last one, a diver’s watch, launched a year ago. It would have been repetitive if this was instead a rehash with a different scene on the dial, but the latest edition stands out for the unique hour display. Although the hours are mechanically straightforward, it is different enough to make this distinct from the preceding Moomin models. Priced at €13,500, the Moomin 80 costs a little more than the earlier version that was €12,000. The price remains competitive considering the overall craftsmanship, most of which lies in the hand-finished dial that is also painted by hand. Both the rotor and case are also high quality and made in-house by Sarpaneva, adding to the value proposition. The two versions of the Moomin 80 Intricate dial works The Moomin 80 employs the trademark Sarpaneva case made of Finnish stainless steel. It’s chunky but appropriately sized and creates a coherent aesthet...
Fratello
Behold The Magnificent Angelus Chrono-Datoluxe
I don’t have a lot of vintage watches on my wishlist anymore. Some, I was lucky enough to find over the years. Others, I moved on from or saw in the metal, which changed my perspective about them. Very few examples, though, still make my heart beat faster. I must admit that most of these […] Visit Behold The Magnificent Angelus Chrono-Datoluxe to read the full article.
Fratello
Rolex Shuts Down Watch Brand Carl F. Bucherer, And That’s Hardly A Surprise
Two years ago, when Rolex acquired Bucherer, a multi-brand retail store with over 100 locations, it also included the jeweler’s watch brand Carl F. Bucherer. So, as of 2023, the Rolex crown was protected by the Tudor shield and a second brand with a history that dates back to 1888. You would think that a […] Visit Rolex Shuts Down Watch Brand Carl F. Bucherer, And That’s Hardly A Surprise to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Breguet Reine de Naples 9915 For Valentine’s Day 2025
Abraham-Louis Breguet was the leading watchmaker of his day and enjoyed the patronage of France’s royalty and aristocracy. Among the names on his VIP list was Caroline Murat, aka the Reine de Naples, Napoleon Bonaparte’s youngest sister, who was a keen collector of Breguet’s horological marvels. The Reine de Naples collection is a free interpretation […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi”
In the great Grand Seiko tradition, the horological year starts early. We already covered the brand’s first releases of 2025 on January 31st, and Mike wrote about another on February 3rd. Now, less than two weeks into the month, Grand Seiko treats us to one more delight. Today, the brand announces the wonderful SBGH368 “Sakura […] Visit Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Scales Down the 62GS to 30 mm and Stays Mechanical
Grand Seiko’s latest offering is unusual – it’s a 30 mm self-winding model specifically conceived for ladies, in contrast to the vast majority of the Grand Seiko catalogue that’s made up of men’s or mid-sized watches. The Heritage Collection 62GS Mechanical 30 mm measures just 10.5 mm thick, making it the brand’s slimmest mechanical model to date. Notably, the new 62GS pair, STGK031 and STGK033, are the first to adopt a case design found on men’s watches, refining it for a smaller format as a ladies model. Initial thoughts In my view, the 62GS case stands out as the most appealing configuration in Grand Seiko’s extensive lineup. While it retains a distinctly Japanese design heritage, it remains one of the few Grand Seiko models that blends vintage and modern styles. As an owner of the 40 mm 62GS, I can personally attest to its versatility on the wrist, largely due to its slim case profile. The new 62GS 30 mm is essentially a scaled down version of the 40 mm model. It stands out for being the first ladies’ models that adapt a design of a men’s watch. In contrast, earlier Grand Seiko ladies watches had a cushion-shaped case that is arguably less appealing since it doesn’t have a distinctive Grand Seiko style. While Grand Seiko’s continued emphasis on nature-inspired dials may feel somewhat overused, the 62GS 30 mm is priced similar to its men’s counterpart and still represents good value. 62GS The Grand Seiko catalogue does include mid-sized watches...
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Makina Mephisto_III GMT
Until recently, I had only heard of Makina watches and hadn’t had the chance to try one out. But that all changed when the Filipino brand offered us the chance to try out its latest creation, the Mephisto_III GMT. The Mephisto is not necessarily a new watch as the regular version was the brand’s debut […] Visit Hands-On With The New Makina Mephisto_III GMT to read the full article.
Monochrome
Video – My 3 Favourite Watches by Glashütte Original, from the Senator to the Sixties
Glashütte Original’s history has many interesting twists and turns, as it was built upon the remains of the VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe conglomerate, or GUB, following the reunification of Germany. As such the company became the legal successor to the once thriving majority of watchmaking enterprises that once called Saxony their home. As you can imagine, […]
Quill & Pad
New Release: Czapek Promenade Plissé – Hail to the Dial!
The dial of the Czapek Promenade Plissé gives the impression of fabric being pushed and bunched up by the sub-dial into pleats across the dial.
Monochrome
First Look – The New, Fashion-Inspired Czapek Promenade Plissé
Launched at Watches and Wonders 2024, the Czapek Promenade collection is a 38mm genderless elegant watch that was imagined as a “canvas for creative expression.” We’ve seen it already with the limited edition Goutte d’Eau (water drop) model of last year, as well as the classic versions with a creative sunray guilloché pattern. For 2025, […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A White, Ivory, Or Pink Plissé Dial
Last year, Czapek introduced the new Promenade collection. Its design combines influences from the brand’s Quai des Bergues and Antarctique lines. Apart from the hollowed-out lugs and mid-case, the watches look quite classic. However, the peculiar dial designs are the real stars of the Promenade collection. The same goes for the newly introduced Promenade Plissé, […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A White, Ivory, Or Pink Plissé Dial to read the full article.