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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.
IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph SJX Watches
IWC Debuts Customisation Mar 15, 2023

IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph

With luxury brands vying to offer clients individuality in products, customised watches are now fairly common. The trend began at aftermarket providers, but establishment watchmakers are gradually making such offerings available beyond their highest-end clientele. The latest entrant is IWC with its Individualisation Service, a surprisingly straightforward customisation process that’s a first for a mainstream watch brand. Available at just two locations for now, the service allows clients to personalise a Portugieser Chronograph; anyone can walk into either of the IWC stores in Shanghai or Dubai and select a case material, match it with a variety of dials and straps, with the finished watch ready in about three weeks. The caveat: the customised watch costs an CHF1,500 over the retail price of the standard-production model. Initial thoughts Despite the clunky name, IWC’s Individualisation Service is definitely a welcome development since it’s a factory-official customised watch that is relatively accessible in price. Customisation is typically offered to only a brand’s biggest-spending clients, so this democratises the concept to a degree. Granted, it’s being trialed at just two locations, but it will surely be rolled out more widely once its commercial viability is proven. That said, the Individualisation Service has limitations. It allows clients to choose from a range of fixed options, rather than allowing free rein to tweak or redesign the watch. So if you...

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The new Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection aims to make classic design contemporary (Live Pics) Time+Tide
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection Mar 14, 2023

The new Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection aims to make classic design contemporary (Live Pics)

Zach, what would be a great first watch for me to buy? This is a question I get asked all the time, and the answer almost always leads to a discussion about Tissot. Upon the introduction of the PRX, were anyone looking for a sporty yet elegant and cost-approachable go-anywhere-do-anything watch, it could not be … ContinuedThe post The new Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection aims to make classic design contemporary (Live Pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Compass Watches for Mountaineers and Explorers: Sporty Digitals to Lux Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 13, 2023

Compass Watches for Mountaineers and Explorers: Sporty Digitals to Lux

Watches with compasses are a rare breed among tool watches, mainly because - unlike chronographs, dual time zone functions, and calendars - their usefulness in everyday circumstances is rather limited. Generally, in the era of GPS and Google Maps, one rarely has a pressing need to identify True North on a hand-held (or wrist-worn) device. However, like other “niche” watch functions that serve mainly as aesthetic curiosities in quiet business or domestic environments, compasses - which can be as low-tech as a movable bezel with orientation markers or as high-tech as a digital readout that takes control of the watch’s display at the push of a button - have a special appeal to active, outdoorsy enthusiasts. Avid hikers, mountain climbers, spelunkers, and others devoted to adventure in environments where one is often bereft of modern conveniences like reliable wifi, tend to gravitate toward a more rugged, utilitarian style of watch, often with built-in tools that go beyond timekeeping. This is why you’ll often find compass-equipped watches with other useful indicators for factors like temperature, atmospheric pressure, and altitude. The relative rarity of compass watches could also be traced, at least in part, to a handful of truisms. One is that as an additional indicator on a watch, it’s basically superfluous: any analog watch with an hour hand, hour markers, and reliable accuracy can be used for orientation, at least while the sun is out. Simply lay the wa...

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Ollech & Wajs’ Astrochron S Combines a 500 WR Dive Chronograph with a Compass Bezel and Regatta Counter Worn & Wound
Mar 13, 2023

Ollech & Wajs’ Astrochron S Combines a 500 WR Dive Chronograph with a Compass Bezel and Regatta Counter

If I had a time machine to visit any point in history, my adventurous spirit would punch in the year 1969. This was already a period rich with daring exploration, technological innovation, and historical achievement that inevitably led to the culmination of the Space Race with NASA putting a man on the moon. But that wasn’t the only “high stakes” race going on at the time. Watch brands all over the world were jockeying for position to see who could make the most robust tool watch for explorers foraying into the most extreme conditions including the unknown depths of the ocean, mountainous death zones, and of course, outer space. Ollech & Wajs was one of the brands that were most certainly in the mix with their own multi-functional triple register chronograph aptly dubbed the Astrochron. The Astrochron’s distinctive multi-scale display made it a popular choice among engineers and scientists in NASA’s research and development lab including Chief Rocket Scientist, Werner Von Braun, or otherwise known as the “father of space travel.” Equipped with a rotating 12 hour bezel, tachymeter scale on the dial, chronograph timer, and a slew of other attractive tool watch features, the Astrochron found its way onto the wrists of sportsmen, pilots, and ship officers alike. Recently, Ollech & Wajs has decided to revisit the design and one glance will confirm that this isn’t your original 1967 Astrochron. With the new refresh, Ollech & Wajs’ already capable multi-function...

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Atelier de Chronométrie Partners with The Lavish Attic on Ultra Limited AdC33 Worn & Wound
H. Moser Mar 13, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Partners with The Lavish Attic on Ultra Limited AdC33

Earlier this year, we saw the debut of a new ‘in-house’ caliber from Atelier de Chronométrie called the M284 within a beautiful watch called the AdC22 which we introduced to you right here. Today we’re getting a glimpse at the next chapter for this movement in the form of the AdC33, a limited edition collaboration with The Lavish Attic, a Hong Kong based collective that curates exclusive high craft products and experiences, serving as area distributors for Urwerk and H. Moser. Here, the outfit is collaborating with Atelier de Chronométrie on an exclusive watch that offers buyers a few interesting choices, including white “Grand Feu” enamel dials with ancient Chinese characters, and an alloy called Gray Gold.  Precious metal cases have expanded beyond the likes of just yellow and rose gold, with stuff like tantalum, black platinum, and proprietary mixes like Omega’s Moonshine offering a wide selection of pricey yet tantalizing choices when it comes to cases. Let’s add gray gold to that list, a gold alloy with high palladium content that apparently lands somewhere between white gold and platinum in appearance. In the case of the AdC33 seen here, it takes on the stepped 37mm case in beautiful fashion, and it’s offered alongside more traditional yellow and rose options. Not to be outdone by the case, the dial brings plenty of intrigue as well thanks to its finish as well as the markings at the 3, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. The white grand feu dial is ins...

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Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42 Worn & Wound
Laco Aachen 42 You’ve just Mar 13, 2023

Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42

You’ve just purchased that watch you always wanted. The size is perfect. The color is exactly how it looked online. And for days afterwards, you find yourself in utter bliss. However, like most people on this earth, you end up wanting something different. Something more. And it’s at that point in time you start looking at straps. You’ve just purchased that watch you always wanted. The size is perfect. The color is exactly how it looked online. And for days afterwards, you find yourself in utter bliss. However, like most people on this earth, you end up wanting something different. Something more. And it’s at that point in time you start looking at straps. The post Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Comedian Shane Gillis reveals Kid Rock loves pranking people by giving them fake watches Time+Tide
Mar 12, 2023

Comedian Shane Gillis reveals Kid Rock loves pranking people by giving them fake watches

Watchmaking is a serious business, one that can be very buttoned up and traditional. But in an age of social media, we have begun to see humour creep into the mix more and more – particularly on Instagram through various watch meme accounts. We certainly have our cheeky side in our own coverage here at Time+Tide, … ContinuedThe post Comedian Shane Gillis reveals Kid Rock loves pranking people by giving them fake watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers exquisite dials in porcelain, enamel and lacquer Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers Mar 11, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers exquisite dials in porcelain, enamel and lacquer

Seiko are celebrating their 110th anniversary of making wristwatches. The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series pays tribute to traditional Japanese techniques. The four dials cover enamel, porcelain and lacquer. Most people would know that Seiko is a Japanese brand, however, their ties to their country of origin run much deeper than the majority of watch brands. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers exquisite dials in porcelain, enamel and lacquer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Prospex GMT Diver Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Prospex GMT Diver Collection

Seiko ventures into new (and much requested) territory this week with the release of a new collection of GMT divers within their Prospex family. Using their modern 6159 design language seen in watches like the SPB187 with MM200 roots, the new watches strike a fine balance between their roots, and a strong contemporary vision for the range. Seiko has proven quite adept at this in recent years with their restructuring of their dive watch collections, but these latest examples bring something new to the table: a GMT complication within a new 3 day automatic movement, the 6R54.  The new Prospex GMT diver range welcomes two new references in the SPB381 and 383, and in true Seiko fashion, a single limited edition in the SPB385. Each welcomes the new 6R35 within a steel 42mm case that measures 12.8mm in thickness, and should wear quite similarly to this SPB187 we went hands-on with right here. The angular case gets the distinctive deep chamfer along the lug which has a relatively short overhang to make for a perfectly manageable experience on the wrist. These watches mark the first time a mechanical GMT movement has made its way into the Prospex dive watch, as the GMT diver is something of a niche genre, and may, to some extent, excuse the fact that this is a caller style GMT execution. The GMT hand can be set independently in one-hour increments, making it a better option for those who work with or communicate with other time zones more than for those who travel between them fr...

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Some reflections on female watches on International Women’s Day Time+Tide
Mar 8, 2023

Some reflections on female watches on International Women’s Day

For me, this International Women’s Day feels somehow different or perhaps more poignant to previous years in our horological microcosm. That’s because, I think, perhaps we are seeing a shift in the way that women and indeed the larger concept of gender is portrayed in watch culture. For over a century, watches have been clearly … ContinuedThe post Some reflections on female watches on International Women’s Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Introduces Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT SJX Watches
Grand Seiko models Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT

Responsible for some of the most reliable and well-priced diver watches on the market, Seiko is synonymous with the genre. The Japanese watchmaker continues to expand its dive watch offerings, but now with a second time zone complication. A “modern reinterpretation” of its Hi-Beat 300 m dive watch from 1968, the Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT is the first mechanical dual-time zone dive watch in Seiko’s Prospex sports watch collection. The SPB383 Initial thoughts Arguably the collection offering the best value in Seiko’s line-up, Prospex is going slightly upscale with the second time zone movement, while maintaining its strong price-performance ratio. The standout among the new models is the SPB381 with its deep green dial. While the limited edition SPB385 with its textured, “ice blue” dial is undoubtedly fancier, the SPB381 is clean and functional but appealing with its palette. The SPB381 Though it is a two-time zone watch, the Diver’s GMT is still primarily a dive watch. So it retains the traditional elapsed time bezel and clever places the 24-hour scale on the flange around the dial. That said, the Diver’s GMT is more accurately a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a true GMT that has an adjustable local-time hour hand (as found in pricier Grand Seiko models). This means a few extra steps when setting the time for a change in time zones, though it is a perfectly acceptable compromise considering the price. At U...

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Seiko Introduces the Presage Craftsmanship Limited Editions SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Presage Craftsmanship Limited Editions

Popular for making artisanal dials affordable, Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship series has been facelifted for the 110th anniversary of the brand’s first watch. The dials continue to be decorated with techniques ranging from fired enamel to Japanese lacquer, but the Presage case has been refined into an all-new design. The restyled Presage is making its debut as a quartet of limited editions with dials in fired enamel (SPB393), traditional lacquer known as urushi (SPB395), Arita porcelain (SPB397), and translucent Shippo enamel (SPB399). The Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399 Initial thoughts Amongst the most affordable watches with fancy dials, the Presage Craftsmanship series has always been a good value proposition. Made with artisanal techniques typically found on pricier watches, the dials are all impressively executed especially considering the price, which starts at US$1,450 for the enamel dial SPB393 and tops out at US$2,050 for the SPB399 with a Shippo enamel dial. While the dial work was always impressive, earlier models had cases that were simple in form and somewhat chunky. Now Seiko has solved that with a redesigned case that appears thinner and more refined. The new case style makes it debut on this quartet but given its merits will inevitably become standard for future Presage Craftsmanship models. Due to the 6R series movements within, the new case is still large (the larger model is almost 41 mm wide and over 14 mm high) but it has been significantly r...

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Mido Revives the Ocean Star Decompression and Adds a Local Jumping Hour GMT and a Whole Lot of Color Worn & Wound
Mido Mar 7, 2023

Mido Revives the Ocean Star Decompression and Adds a Local Jumping Hour GMT and a Whole Lot of Color

Mido had a bonafide hit on their hands in 2020 with Ocean Star Decompression Timer, a colorful skin diver based on the original Ocean Star divers from the 1960s. The brightly colored sectors allow divers to time decompression stops by sight, but for those of us who tend to spend most of our time topside, it was just a fun way to incorporate some color into a style of watch that sometimes veers toward the sober. The viral success of that release (it sold out quickly and seemed to dominate Instagram for a brief period of time) makes it somewhat surprising that Mido hasn’t returned to the format more frequently in the years since, but here we are with what I think many would argue feels like a natural follow up.  The Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer takes the colorful sector layout of the Decompression Timer and applies it to another complication altogether. The execution is actually rather simple, even if the dial appears to be extremely complicated. In the dial’s interior, we have the same decompression table as seen in the prior version of the watch. But at the perimeter, Mido has added a 24 hour scale, and instead of a traditional dive bezel, we get a rotating city ring for time indication. Importantly, the bezel maintains a minute scale, with 10 minute intervals marked off in the midst of international cities, which means you could still use this watch as a dive tool if you needed to.  The dial is a lot of fun, and if you were drawn to the original, there’s a ...

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[Hands-On] The Heinrich Taucher 2, Now in GMT Guise Worn & Wound
Mar 7, 2023

[Hands-On] The Heinrich Taucher 2, Now in GMT Guise

Last year, I wrote about the Taucher 2 from Heinrich – a moderately sized dive watch packed with retro touches, even if not all of them were to my taste. Today, I’m looking at the next step in the evolution of the Taucher 2 line. There are a lot of similarities between the two models, but a few obvious changes as well – and not just the addition of a GMT hand. So, how does the Taucher 2 GMT stack up? Heinrich Watches are making this GMT available in three varieties. All are the same in terms of case and bracelet and differ only in the dial, and chapter ring, color. I’ve been spending some time with the ‘safe bet’ black dial as well as the more adventurous blue and yellow combination. These two are also joined by a white dial with a blue and white ‘Pepsi’ colored chapter ring. Each of the two models I’ve looked at not only differs in color scheme but also in texture. The blue dial gets a sunburst pattern, while the black dial is treated to something a little more unusual. The three-dimensional pattern resembles Clous de Paris, but on an enlarged scale, and with a curved pattern that brings to mind the lines of longitude and latitude as they span the globe. Such an impression is no bad thing on a GMT watch. $1500 [Hands-On] The Heinrich Taucher 2, Now in GMT Guise Case Stainless Steel Movement Sellita SW330-2 Elaboré Dial Black, Blue or White Lume BGW9 SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel Water Resistance 200M Dimensions 41x43mm Thickness 14mm...

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INTRODUCING: The new Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph 43mm models present a fresh option for daily wear Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph 43mm models present Mar 7, 2023

INTRODUCING: The new Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph 43mm models present a fresh option for daily wear

The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph 43mm delivers an exciting casual watch Two new dial options are presented with the refresh An automatic Cal. ML112 chronograph movement powers the Pontos Chronograph line  When Maurice Lacroix is mentioned, most people think of the famous Aikon model. And for good reason: the Aikon is a surprisingly unique take … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph 43mm models present a fresh option for daily wear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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ochs & junior Gives Us Two Time Zones Without the Fuss Worn & Wound
Zodiac Mar 6, 2023

ochs & junior Gives Us Two Time Zones Without the Fuss

Dual time watches have enjoyed a resurgence in popularity thanks to a new crop of movements boasting variations of the complication, and that’s a very good thing, netting us new GMT watches like this Seiko, this Zodiac, and this Lorca, among many others. What’s rarer is a novel take on presenting the complication. That’s exactly what we get from a new watch from ochs & junior, which ditches the fourth hand altogether, and provides a second set of adjustable hour markers instead. This is the ochs line two time zones aka the due ore raw. The traditional GMT configuration is lauded for its simplicity which boils down to a 24 hand dutifully lapping the dial once each day, usually accompanied by a set of 24 hour markers against which to read it independently of the 12 hour markers for the local time. There are plenty of exceptions, of course, but not nearly enough in the sub-exotic realm. The Nomos Zürich world time is one such example, and now this ochs & junior represents another such breath of fresh air. The two time zones seen here utilizes the classic ETA 2824-2 that’s been modified to host a disc containing a set of hour markers in Arabic numeral form under the dial. The standard 31-tooth date disc has been replaced with a 48-tooth disk that’s independently adjustable through the crown. This makes for an intuitive display that’s easily managed and read. Simply add or subtract the difference between your home and local time zones and set the display accordingl...

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5 of the best limited-edition character Casio G-Shock watches Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock watches Casio as Mar 5, 2023

5 of the best limited-edition character Casio G-Shock watches

Casio as a first watch is something that a lot of us can relate to. No matter how many fine mechanical timepieces are in the collection, there’s just an effervescent joy in these plastic wonders that transport me back to a simpler time, when my biggest dilemma was which Saturday morning cartoon to watch. I’ve … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best limited-edition character Casio G-Shock watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Get with the times: 11 badass women wearing badass “men’s” watches Time+Tide
Mar 5, 2023

Get with the times: 11 badass women wearing badass “men’s” watches

The watch community is growing and evolving, but at times there are still some antiquated lines of thought plaguing it – discouraging newcomers from joining in our passion. One of these thoughts is the idea that gender should dictate which watches are appropriate for your wrist. I find it so silly. I have spotted more … ContinuedThe post Get with the times: 11 badass women wearing badass “men’s” watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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