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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Something for everyone – the Mühle-Glashütte watches you should consider Time+Tide
Mühle Glashütte Jul 16, 2022

Something for everyone – the Mühle-Glashütte watches you should consider

What do you get when you put years of precise instrument manufacturing expertise into watchmaking? Well, Mühle-Glashütte is what you get. Though they produced their first watch as late as 1996, they pride themselves on their precision manufacturing heritage, as producers of measuring tools and speedometers. Founded by Robert Mühle during his employment for fine … ContinuedThe post Something for everyone – the Mühle-Glashütte watches you should consider appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver 200m “Green Anaconda” SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Jul 15, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver 200m “Green Anaconda”

Introduced just last year, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m is an distinctive and compelling “tool” watch with an over-the-top style and impressive specs that include a hardened titanium case and magnetism-resistant movement. Now the watch returns in even more striking livery in a limited edition that will be available only in Asia. Dressed in green and gold, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m Asia Limited Edition “Green Anaconda” has a hobnailed dial and bezel, while the case, bracelet, and bezel are all black coated. Initial thoughts The original model was easy to like, especially if you like chunky dive watches. Its technical features are amongst the best in at its price segment, while the slightly exaggerated styling also helps it stand out in the crowded segment of affordable dive watches. What the first version lacked, however, was flair. Thought the watch was big and hard to miss, it was dressed almost entirely in shades of grey, which felt too restrained for the size and design. The “Green Anaconda” certainly took that lesson to heart with its striking colours that leave the hobnail patterning seem even more obvious than before. The colours and textures are brought out even more by the contrast with the black-coated case and bracelet. They are finished in diamond-like carbon (DLC), resulting in a charcoal finish that’s slightly glossy. The dark finish also makes the watch look smaller than it is, which is useful given its 46 mm diameter. With...

Dr No Way: The 5 most implausible watch gadgets of James Bond Time+Tide
Jul 15, 2022

Dr No Way: The 5 most implausible watch gadgets of James Bond

There are many reasons the James Bond franchise is so enduring. From the twisty plotlines, exotic cars, breathtaking locations, jaw-dropping stunt work, and of course, the roguish charm of 007 himself (or herself, shoutout to Lashana Lynch), there’s a lot to like. And of course, those gadgets. So many gadgets. While the recent Daniel Craig … ContinuedThe post Dr No Way: The 5 most implausible watch gadgets of James Bond appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Blancpain finds its way into the Jack Reacher universe Time+Tide
Blancpain finds Jul 15, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Blancpain finds its way into the Jack Reacher universe

Earlier this week I swung by the 5th avenue Blancpain boutique for an evening with NYC Watch Crew and bestselling author Dan Ames. You may be wondering: why was an author a special guest at a watch meetup? In Ames’ latest expansion of the Jack Reacher universe, a beloved series of books by Lee Child … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Blancpain finds its way into the Jack Reacher universe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The power duo is back! Meet the Bamford x G-SHOCK DW6900BWD “three blues”… Time+Tide
Jul 15, 2022

HANDS-ON: The power duo is back! Meet the Bamford x G-SHOCK DW6900BWD “three blues”…

With Bamford, we’ve grown accustomed to aqua and black getting to know each other, and the new Bamford x G-SHOCK DW6900 is no different. This is the second time the two brands have worked together, the first being a retrolicious take on another classic, the DW5600. You might also know this watch for being one … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The power duo is back! Meet the Bamford x G-SHOCK DW6900BWD “three blues”… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The Legacy Machine Perpetual From MB&F; Hodinkee
MB&F Jul 14, 2022

Introducing: The Legacy Machine Perpetual From MB&F;

Max Büsser and his cohorts at his horological think tank, MB&F;, have, without question, created a bewildering variety of watches over the years that have used horology as a jumping off point for the exploration of a highly idiosyncratic vocabulary of watchmaking, in which mechanics put themselves at the service of an aesthetics that freely mingles everything from pop culture to science fiction to sometimes alarming arachnomorphism, and beyond. However, what MB&F; thus far has largely not addressed itself to is the world of traditional complications – other than the tourbillon, used by MB&F; for its aesthetic impact, you will look in vain for anything beyond a simple calendar or a moonphase. Now, however, MB&F; and Büsser have gotten into the complications game in a big way: they’ve launched their own perpetual calendar, and, what’s more, they’ve done so with an in-house movement, with a variation on the perpetual calendar mechanism unlike anything we’ve seen so far.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 14, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum

Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards. Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual. The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante Initial thoughts Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand. While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red...

An NYC weekend with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor When Jul 14, 2022

An NYC weekend with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor

When people ask me what brand they should keep an eye on, without hesitation I say Parmigiani Fleurier. The manufacture, while less of a household name, has always created quality timepieces. But with the brand now helmed by CEO Guido Terreni, formerly head of watches at Bulgari, the Parmigiani catalogue is becoming stronger than ever … ContinuedThe post An NYC weekend with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It’s official: Speedmaster sales up 50% in the wake of the MoonSwatch collaboration Time+Tide
Jul 14, 2022

It’s official: Speedmaster sales up 50% in the wake of the MoonSwatch collaboration

There is little mystery about the seismic impact of the MoonSwatch on Swatch sales. The brand can simply not make enough of them, and despite grumblings about accessibility and lack of an online sales option, demand is still red hot. The bigger question that’s emerged is, what impact will the MoonSwatch have on sales for … ContinuedThe post It’s official: Speedmaster sales up 50% in the wake of the MoonSwatch collaboration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole is the way to do a vintage reissue Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Orange Diver Jul 13, 2022

The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole is the way to do a vintage reissue

Brands have always taken plentiful inspiration from their back catalogue – just look at some of the biggest recent releases. There are two ways to go about this. You either take subtle cues from a past model (think TAG Heuer Orange Diver in reference to ref. 844), or you go the way of the Rado … ContinuedThe post The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole is the way to do a vintage reissue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ryan Gosling reps TAG Heuer in new film “The Gray Man” Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jul 13, 2022

Ryan Gosling reps TAG Heuer in new film “The Gray Man”

Almost exactly one year ago, the incredibly talented (and handsome) Ryan Gosling was announced as a TAG Heuer ambassador. When I covered this announcement, I noted that I was very excited to see how this partnership would develop. Today, we see a major fruit of this relationship in the form of a fitting wrist-cameo in … ContinuedThe post Ryan Gosling reps TAG Heuer in new film “The Gray Man” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sarpaneva’s Latest is a Glow-in-the-Dark Fairytale Landscape SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Jul 13, 2022

Sarpaneva’s Latest is a Glow-in-the-Dark Fairytale Landscape

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has once again turned to a Finnish artist for the Nocturne, a wristwatch that combines the technicolour luminosity of the brand’s Moomin editions with its trademark complication. Starkly monochromatic during the day, the multi-part dial comes to life at night, thanks to the nine colours of luminous paint that fill the hundreds of tiny apertures all precisely cut by laser. And sitting in the an window that occupies a third of the dial is a huge moon “face” that instantly marks this out as a Sarpaneva. Initial thoughts Though the Nocturne looks quite different from the brand’s past watches yet quintessentially Sarpaneva in style and execution. Although it relies on a similar decorative technique as the earlier Moomin edition, the Nocturne is far more distinct. And the slightly gothic style suits the Sarpaneva aesthetic perfectly. I like the design and being familiar with Sarpaneva’s other watches, I expect the quality of the dial to be excellent. In all tangible terms the watch is winner. But then there’s the price, which is substantial. The Nocturne costs €19,000. That’s within the ballpark for the brand’s moon-phase models, with the premium justified by the fancy dial. And compared to the broader market – especially with the current hype around independent watchmaking regardless of quality or provenance – it’s still a reasonable proposition. But it is pricey compared to Sarpaneva’s earlier offering...

Audermars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Offshore “Music Edition” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet has just unveiled Jul 12, 2022

Audermars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Offshore “Music Edition”

A watchmaker with many a musician as brand ambassadors, Audemars Piguet has just unveiled a quintet of sports watches sporting a motif inspired by the digital display of a graphic equaliser, a piece of audio equipment used to vary the volume of frequency bands. Taking its inspiration quite literally, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition has the familiar tapisserie dial pattern but dressed up with the vertical lines of the display on a graphic equaliser. And in its fanciest form, the latest model renders the equaliser motif in colour gemstones that continue onto the bezel. Initial thoughts As with many of the brand’s more extravagant releases, the Music Edition is almost tacky but manages to pull it off. Decidedly modern and very much over the top, the colourful chequerboard is a fun, striking look that distinguishes the watch from every other Royal Oak, which is an accomplishment given the strength of the octagonal design. Traditionalists will sure disprove of the way the tapisserie dial has been reinvented, but it is certainly in keeping with the bold and adventurous style of the Le Brassus watchmaker. And that has its appeal in moderate doses. The secret to such over-the-top watches is to do it infrequently and as long as AP doesn’t repeat this often or regularly, the Music Edition is different and cool. The dial of the gem-set model is blue aventurine glass, adding another layer of sparkle to the watch Between the two dials available, the gem-set versi...

A special evening with Vacheron Constantin and the Time+Tide Club Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Jul 11, 2022

A special evening with Vacheron Constantin and the Time+Tide Club

After less contact than normal due to the disruptive effects of a certain global pandemic, the Time+Tide Club event at the Vacheron Constantin Melbourne boutique brought back a sense of normality. The event itself focused on important sport pieces from Vacheron Constantin’s past, beginning with the release of the 222 for their 222nd anniversary in … ContinuedThe post A special evening with Vacheron Constantin and the Time+Tide Club appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Jul 11, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified

Hublot has always been known for pushing the envelope of material use in their latest releases. Contrary to that regular scheduling, LVMH Watch Week 2022 saw the release of the Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only. While certainly a more simplified take on a classic Hublot recipe, the Integrated Time Only (a change from the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price Time+Tide
Jul 11, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price

There are plenty of watch brands that have been resurrected from the past. But Circula set themselves apart with their authentic German heritage and the benefit of original family ownership. Focusing mostly on high-quality mechanical watches at an attainable price, their latest release is a neat blend of modern functionality and vintage quirkiness in the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.