Deployant
New: Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph
Rado releases a chronograph in the popular Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection, the first time this chronograph is in full ceramic case and bracelet.
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Monochrome
First Look - The New Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
Zenith‘s Triple Calendar model is based on the compact 38mm case of the Chronomaster Original, itself modelled after the 1969 El Primero reference A386. This reference provides a balanced and wearable foundation for a relatively complex movement. Initially launched in stainless steel (2024) and subsequently in rose gold (2025), Zenith has decided that it was […]
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
Continuing with the blue theme for its 160th anniversary, Zenith has upgraded its compact, vintage-inspired chronograph with a natural stone dial. The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is a combination of old and new, plus a luxe dial. The watch is equipped with the latest-generation El Primero movement, but dressed in a 1970s design – here upgraded with a dial of lapis lazuli, the same semiprecious stone found on the G.F.J. cal. 135 revival. Initial thoughts I like the basic design of the Chronomaster Original because it’s essentially a remake of the 1969 El Primero, which is a retro design that still works well today. Zenith has made too many exact replicas of the vintage originals, but fortunately the lapis lazuli edition is different. The stone dial sets it apart visually, while also giving it a more refined feel than the typical Zenith. Though simple, the lapis dial feels like a substantive upgrade to an established and appealing design. The upgraded dial, however, comes at a price that’s too steep. At US$22,700, the lapis dial costs almost US$10,000 more than the standard model with a brass dial. The difference is too much and equally difficult to justify. A prototype revived Although the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar a seems like a vintage remake, it is not exactly. Instead, the standard model introduced last year was based on a 1970s prototype that never made it intro production. So it has the familiar 1969 El Primero case and dial la...
Monochrome
Portrait - After Hong Kong, a European Chapter for The Horology Club
The Horology Club, founded in Hong Kong and boasting around 800 members, is now expanding with the creation of a European chapter. This is an opportunity to have a conversation with the founder of The Horology Club Europe, Frank Smits, about the goals pursued as “watch clubs” are spreading worldwide. While brands are focusing on […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New Delma Montego Chronograph Black Editions
In 2022, the Lengnau watchmaker Delma returned the Montego, a bold, versatile chronograph with a racing-inspired edge defined by its prominent external tachymeter scale. Built as a genuine sports watch, it’s ready for adventure on land or underwater, thanks to its robust 200m water resistance. Initially launched in four dial colours, white, black, green, and […]
Worn & Wound
MB&F; Launches an Entirely New Collection for their 20th Anniversary with the SP One
Would you expect anything less from MB&F; on their 20th anniversary than the launch of an entirely new collection? The independent brand founded by Max Büsser has spent the last two decades confounding expectations, delighting enthusiasts and collectors along the way with some of the brazen and creative watch designs of the modern era. The brand’s influence and importance on the modern independent watch scene really can’t be overstated. To date, MB&F; releases have existed on two distinct tracks: the LM or “Legacy Machine” collection, which represents Max Büsser’s idea of a classical watchmaking style (think circular cases, classical complications, and a generally traditional if sometimes highly complex readout of the time), and the HM, or “Horological Machine” collection, which can be described as pure, maximalist creativity. This is where you see watches shaped like dogs, and spaceships, with time read in unusual and unexpected ways. While you’d think that working within two collections in this manner (particularly where one is seemingly unbound by traditional watchmaking rules) Max and his team would have the freedom to create just about anything they set their mind to. In reality, of course, there are always projects that don’t reach the finish line for one reason or another. The SP One (SP is short for “Special Projects”) represents an entirely new product category for MB&F; with the promise of reviving these projects and creating entirely new one...
Teddy Baldassarre
Casio F-91W Review
The Casio F-91W is the best-selling wristwatch of all time, with more than 100 million units sold. This statement comes a pretty significant caveat, which depends on whether or not you consider the Apple Watch - well, a watch. I am a defender of “smartwatches,” but I think they have evolved to the point where “wearable” is a more appropriate term given the fact that their functionality when it comes to communication and health monitoring exceeds what any watch has ever done. So, with that established for the sake of this article, let’s put the 300 million Apple Watch sales aside for now. Casio F-91W History And "Controversy" The Casio F-91W was introduced all the way back in 1989 and is still in production, with the astonishing figure of 3 million units per year. What's even more remarkable is the fact that the Casio F-91W you can buy in 2025 basically looks the same as one you could have bought when it first launched 36 years ago. It was also the first watch designed by Ryuusake Morai, the prolific designer behind some of the most iconic Casio G-Shocks seen today. When a watch has been around as long as this, it can transcend fads and trends, but few can claim immunity/teflon status to an unfortunate PR association like the F-91W when it was used as a timer for explosives. I would absolutely not call it a “controversy,” because that would just be silly, but the always-excellent Watches of Espionage has a fantastic article dedicated to the topic, which you ...
Monochrome
First Look - Luca Soprana Goes Independent, with his New, Minimalist yet Sophisticated Time Only Watch
Luca Soprana is an independent watchmaker, not widely known by a large audience, yet highly regarded by collectors and industry insiders for his work with renowned brands. Situated in Vaumarcus, near Neuchâtel, his Atelier 7h38 focuses on restoration as well as developing and producing high-end movements for external clients. While some projects have been unveiled […]
Hodinkee
Gatherings: Celebrating the Art of Swiss Timekeeping with Leica
Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang and Henrik Ekdahl, Managing Director of Ernst Leitz Werkstätten, host discussion on new watch collection
Hodinkee
Gatherings: An Alpine-Inspired Celebration With Range Rover
The new Range Rover Sport Deer Valley Edition makes its anticipated debut in Park City, and we were there to catch it in all its glory.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: Capturing A Moment In Time With IWC Schaffhausen
An evening of cocktails, first looks at new watches and a hands-on master class in photography.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: An Evening With Leica In The Nation's Capital
Celebrating fine mechanical instruments on the wrist and through the lens.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: An Evening With Blancpain In NYC
Celebrating the world's oceans and the communities dedicated to their preservation.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: 100 Years Of Citizen: Honoring The Past, Embracing The Future
Citizen marked its 100th anniversary with a stunning exhibition in New York City, showcasing a timeline of its design evolution, including the latest LAYERS of TIME collection and the commemorative 100th-anniversary pocket watch.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: A Special Cartier Roundtable Discussion At Watches & Wonders In Geneva
Amid the hustle and bustle of Watches & Wonders 2024, we hosted a chat that brought Cartier's leadership to the table with some of the brand's most ardent collectors.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: An Evening in Celebration of the Newest IWC Ingenieur
Christian Knoop, Chief Design Officer of IWC Schaffhausen, joined Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer for an engaging conversation celebrating the Ingenieur's past, present, and future.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: Gübelin Celebrates Its 170th Anniversary With A Watch Designed By Santiago Calatrava
At an exclusive dinner in St. Gallen, Switzerland, the Swiss jeweler and watch retailer invited Hodinkee to reveal the new Ipsomatic, a limited-edition platinum timepiece designed by one of the world's most famous architects.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: Celebrating Two Centuries Of Pioneering Precision With Jaeger-LeCoultre's New Travelling Collection
The brand's Madison Avenue boutique welcomes the latest Duometre collection and a series of exclusive watchmaking workshops.
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko x Teddy Baldassarre 2024
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac Pays Tribute to the Hotel Concierge with their Latest Release
Over the last year or two, I’ve been traveling more and more for work. More often than not, I’ve found the experience impersonal at best. Thanks to the new invention of “contactless check-in”, I am usually greeted by a row of iPads, making it feel more like I’ve made a 4-day reservation at a Genius Bar versus a holiday in Malibu. You see, like glass-blowing or macrame, hospitality is a dying art. The ability to make one feel welcomed isn’t as simple as having a few brochures at the front desk; but, instead, it’s an immeasurable talent that turns a two-night stay into an experience. Luckily, there are a few good men fighting the good fight. An entire network of them, actually, called Les Clefs d’Or. Since 1952, this international organization has dedicated itself to the art of hospitality through its 4,000 members, making it one of the largest organizations of its kind. While many hotels now have a new-hire sit at a podium labeled CONCIERGE to hand out brochures of local attractions, the members of Les Clefs d’Or understands that a concierge is an untapped resource, giving you tips on where to eat, what to do, and he may pull a few strings to get you that hard-to-come-by table at the local Michelin-starred joint down the block. Now, of course for me, the imagination starts running when I think of a private organization of hotel professionals who are maintaining the old guard of hospitality. One might even be reminded of The Society of the Crossed Keys ...
Monochrome
First Look - The MB&F; SP One, the First Chapter of the New Special Projects Collection
Founded in 2005 by Maximilian Büsser and counting on the participation of “friends” in the creative process, MB&F; has levitated around two main collections since its creation, but always with a rather radical concept and designs like nothing else on the market. First came the Horological Machines (with HM1 in 2007), futuristic watches inspired by […]
Fratello
Hot Take: The New MB&F; SP One Is Classic MB&F; Yet Anything But
What happens when one of horology’s most radical voices tries its hand at something classically elegant? You get the MB&F; SP One. At just 38mm across and 12mm thick, it’s the smallest and slimmest watch the brand has ever made. But don’t let that fool you. This might be a more compact, dress-watch-adjacent MB&F;, but […] Visit Hot Take: The New MB&F; SP One Is Classic MB&F; Yet Anything But to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: MB&F; SP One
With its fifth new model in as many months, MB&F; has been on quite the run to kick off its third decade. Fresh off the launch of the fun and affordable M.A.D.2, which followed closely on the heels of a collaboration with Bulgari and the introduction of the the Legacy Machine Longhorn editions, the brand has returned with the SP One, a contemporary take on the open-worked dress watch. Sleeker than the typical Horological Machine yet more avant garde than a Legacy Machine, the pebble-like SP One is the first model in a new “Special Projects” collection that packages the brand’s signature contemporary aesthetic in a smaller more wearable 38 mm footprint. The SP One joins the collection as a regular production model in either platinum or 18k rose gold. Initial thoughts Picking up the SP One for the first time, one is struck by the light and airy nature of the watch. On the wrist, the minimalist case almost disappears, making the the SP One something of a wrist-worn display case for the Y-shaped movement. This effect is accentuated with a brushed internal flange dubbed ‘the amphitheater’ that focuses attention on the spectacularly three-dimensional mechanical architecture. The smooth pebble-like case measures 38 mm and is just 12 mm thick, making it the most compact MB&F; watch to-date. The front and rear sapphire crystals are cambered to blend seamlessly with the case, giving the SP One the feel of a polished stone. Visually, the smoothness is emphasised by lugs that ...
Fratello
Fratello On Air: The Strap Episode
Welcome to another installment of Fratello On Air. This week, we respond to a listener’s request for a strap episode. Today’s show covers how to choose, which brands we enjoy, and pairing specific watches. Enjoy it! For our listeners, the watch content begins after approximately 21 minutes. This podcast player is blocked because you did […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Strap Episode to read the full article.
Monochrome
Portrait - The Intricate Work of Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao
Horological discoveries are the things that fuel a great deal of passion within the MONOCHROME editorial team. We know it gets a lot of people in the watch collecting community excited as well. Put 2 and 2 together, and you can understand why we regularly feature new and potentially never-seen-before watchmakers and other initiatives on […]
SJX Watches
Highlights: Diverse Single-Owner Collections at Christie’s Hong Kong
Christie’s continues its spring season in Hong Kong with an unexpected single-owner trilogy – three separate collections of timepieces owned by one collection going on the block – The Chronicle, The Generations, and Stories in Time. The Generations collection will be sold on May 28, and focuses on sports watches from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. Slated to be sold on the same day, The Chronicle collection is more eclectic but focuses on traditionally styled watches. Thirdly, Stories in Time will hit the block on May 29, and features notable vintage Rolex watches – including a fine mid-century cloisonné Oyster – stunning Cartier clocks, and avant-garde creations by independents. One of the top lots in the sale is the Rolex Oyster ref. 6100 with a cloisonné enamel dial that is only now reemerging publicly after having last been sold in 1990 Concurrently, watches from The Legacy Collection, including rare watches from Richard Mille and gem-set Patek Philippe complications, will be on show from May 22 to 28 (though that are not part of the auction). We round up five fine and fascinating watches, and one clock from the upcoming sale. Online bidding and the catalogue for the May 28 sale and the May 29 sale, and the catalogue in PDF format for both sessions, are available on Christies.com. Lot 2277 – Seiko Credor Eichi I Unveiled in 2008, the Credor Eichi I was the second product of Seiko Epson’s elite Micro-Artist Studio, after the Credor Sonnerie of 2006....
Worn & Wound
Heinrich Introduces their Take on the Dress Watch, the All New Radiance
Heinrich, the Stuttgart based indie brand known for reinterpreting classic watch designs of the 1970s (sometimes with lots of color) is back with their latest release, the Radiance. This latest effort from Heinrich is a new take on the dress watch (a trend we’ve been spotting more and more in recent months), and it’s interesting to see the brand’s distinct design language applied to a genre of watch that, on the one hand, they aren’t typically known for, and on the other is also not what we think of when we think of “watches of the 1970s.” That’s perhaps oversimplifying things a bit: Heinrich has made watches that aren’t completely over the top tool and sports watches before (put one of these Helicoprions with a stone dial on a strap, and you’ll be ready for almost any cocktail party), and of course there were plenty of dress watches made in the 1970s and 80s, but it’s fair to say that most of the watch designs pulled from those decades veer toward the sporty. Back to the Radiance, the prevailing idea here seems to be an experimentation on the brand’s part with softer lines and a clean, simple case. The case is stainless steel and 38.5mm in diameter and just 8mm tall thanks to the use of an ETA 7001 manually wound movement. Those are dress watch proportions, to be sure, and the lugs have been gently curved as well to make the watch wear closer to the wrist. Again, dress watch DNA. Finishing is a mix of brushing and polishing, with a clearly defined ...
Monochrome
Hands-on - Understanding The Highly Original Ressence Type 7 GMT (Incl. Video)
It’s not every day we get to see a new Ressence, but in the past decade and a half, the brand has carved out an impressive reputation for originality and creativity. And in all honesty, it really is one of the most original brands around, with a unique take on how to display time. Especially […]
Hodinkee
Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Silicon Valley
These next classes will be hosted by Chopard and ISSIMI.
Worn & Wound
Doxa Adds a Steel Bezel to the SUB 200 Diver
Doxa added a GMT to their collection for the first time in years to much fanfare recently (we covered it here). This watch got quite a bit of press and stirred considerable interest within the enthusiast community, but to my mind it was only the second best watch the brand showed us when we met with them in Geneva last month (that’s second out of two, just to be clear). I’m not sure what it is, exactly, but I’m a little over the whole “put a GMT on it” approach to product development that the industry has been stuck in for the last few years. Do we really need the ability to track two or more time zones on every watch? And should we really be doing it with movements that perform this function almost by accident and are nearly impossible to use correctly if you’re actually traveling? I’m trying not to be a hater, really I am, but every time I see a new GMT equipped watch that’s just a riff on an existing diver or chronograph, as if a GMT complication is just an extra side on a barbecue platter, I ask myself what it is that we’re doing here, really. A new version of the Doxa SUB 200 was the other watch Doxa was showing in Geneva last month, although it was embargoed until last week, so I couldn’t come out of that meeting with the blistering hot take that it actually makes a lot more sense as a watch than the SUB 250T GMT, which to me feels like something ChatGPT might invent if you asked it to think of Doxa watches that don’t yet exist. This SUB 200 i...