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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer comes in 6 lip-smacking flavours Time+Tide
Feb 3, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer comes in 6 lip-smacking flavours

The new Ball Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer has an internal bezel with domed sapphire. The internal bezel can be used underwater. Six colour options include green and blue in sunburst, and blue or brown matte gradients. It’s probably fair to say that the dive watch is as played out a genre you can find … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer comes in 6 lip-smacking flavours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 37 mm Turquoise Dial SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 37 mm Feb 2, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 37 mm Turquoise Dial

Audemars Piguet (AP) just launched over a dozen new models, ranging from the Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a grained dial to the first Offshore Chronograph with a ceramic bracelet. But one stands out despite being the smallest watch amongst the new launches. Dressed in yellow gold and a striking stone dial, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm Turquoise Dial is a throwback back to an earlier era when the Royal Oak was offered with a range of mineral stone dials. Initial thoughts Though relatively common in the 1970s and 1980s when stone dials were a thing, the turquoise-yellow gold combination is unusual today. But it has a certain timelessness so the combination remains attractive. In fact, it even feels current, a testament to the longevity of the Royal Oak design (and the current fad for robin-egg blue dials). The watch is intrinsically attractive in its design and palette. The design is simple – almost minimalist in Royal Oak terms – but the watch has presence due to its colours. It is vibrant and loud, very much the opposite of, say the new “Jumbo” in white gold, which is decidedly low key in comparison. One element I wish was different is the seconds hand – I would have preferred a two-hand dial as on the vintage Royal Oak models with stone dials. That simplicity would further accentuate the dial material. The case does feel slightly small for a modern men’s watch. It is an acceptable size, but the dimensions of the model means it feels slightly smaller than it...

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time? Worn & Wound
Seiko SSK001 Feb 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time?

In watches, like all things in life, everything comes back full circle. My watch collecting journey has meandered through different types of watches, spanning all shapes and sizes. There was a time where my collection had ballooned to a number that my watch box couldn’t accommodate. More recently, it has shrunk to a number that I can count on one hand. Very manageable, even by watch enthusiast’s standards. But despite the watches of past and present, there will always be that one watch that started it all – the Seiko SKX. I’m not talking about the ubiquitous Seiko SKX 007. No, not at all. The watch that kicked off this wild journey within this hobby, and ultimately led me to typing these actual words for you to read at your leisure, was the Seiko SKX013. The Seiko SKX diver format, in a more compact wearing case, suited my preferences at the time. It’s the watch that opened Pandora’s box to all sorts of things in, and out of horology. From figuring out how to change out straps (from that rattley jubilee) and learning about the history of the dive watch, to actually getting me into the sport of surfing. Through thick and thin, the SKX013 has always taken up a spot in the quiver. My beloved Seiko SKX013 (Left) & my brand new Seiko SSK001 GMT (Right) Side By Side $475 [VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time? Case Stainless Steel Movement Caliber 4R34 Dial Black Lume LumiBrite Lens Hardlex ...

Hamilton Introduces a Wild New Jazzmaster Face-2-Face Worn & Wound
Hamilton Introduces Feb 2, 2023

Hamilton Introduces a Wild New Jazzmaster Face-2-Face

A few weeks ago, Zach Weiss told us about a little watch from Vario with a neat party trick. The Versa is actually two (quartz) watches in one, and thanks to a hinge, the dials can be flipped around to your liking, giving the owner options for a second time zone, or just a fun tactile sensation that is rarely seen at the Versa’s modest price point. Now, in a proverbial “Hold my beer…” moment, Hamilton has introduced a watch in their Face-2-Face series, a Jazzmaster that’s somehow both a business and a party on the front and back thanks to a clever rotating case design.  The Face-2-Face III continues a line that Hamilton has been working with since 2013, creating elaborate double-sided dial watches within the updated Art Deco framework of the Jazzmaster collection. These watches take a maximalist approach that is the antithesis of Hamilton’s pilot and military watch bread and butter, but in doing so serve as a reminder of the brand’s sometimes surprising ability to create a design that is truly off the wall. This is the brand that created the X-01, after all.  The Face-2-Face III starts with a 44mm case that can be flipped around on its axis by the wearer to display one of two distinct dials. The primary display is for time telling and chronograph functionality, while the secondary dial provides a view of the movement and a series of scales that one can use in concert with the chronograph. The architecture of the main dial is multi-layered, creating a sense ...

How About a Big Bronze Skull for the Wrist? Bell & Ross Has You Covered Worn & Wound
Richard Mille there are skull watches Feb 1, 2023

How About a Big Bronze Skull for the Wrist? Bell & Ross Has You Covered

Ah yes, the skull watch. While not exactly what I’d call a “staple,” watches featuring skulls have been ever present in modern watch collecting for years. Most notably, we can look to independent watchmaker Fiona Kruger as something of a skull watch specialist, but other brands are in on the skull action as well. From Invicta (of course, Invicta) to Richard Mille, there are skull watches out there for every taste and budget. Indeed, one of my favorite watches from last year features a skull in a nontraditional way. But we can’t talk about skull watches without talking about Bell & Ross, who have released a variety of these watches in their relatively short history. Their latest release, the BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze, is one of the strangest yet.  First, let’s answer the question many are likely asking themselves right now: why? While different brands might have varying rationales for creating skull watches, we can at least identify that the skull itself as a symbol is recognized somewhat universally as dealing with the idea of mortality. A memento mori, a reminder that every living thing dies, is a theme that exists in art going back centuries. This is a natural thematic playing field for a watch, dealing as it does with the passing of time. Also, they just kind of look cool. I’m reminded of a heavily tattooed friend being asked about the symbolism behind the artwork on his body (including, you guessed it, skulls) and his curt response, indicating that he just ...

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Feb 1, 2023

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Buyer's Guide

Seven key talking points on the most elegantly understated watch from the Seamaster family  Considering adding an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra to your watch collection? Here is a rundown of what you should know about the watch from its design history to its movement to its role in sports and pop culture. The Aqua Terra sports a design that calls back the dressy design of the original 1948 Seamaster. The Omega Seamaster as most of us know it nowadays traces its existence to 1957, which was the year that the Seamaster 300, Omega’s first truly purpose-built “professional” dive watch, made its debut alongside the Speedmaster (whatever happened to that model, anyway?) and the recently revived Railmaster. But the first Seamaster was in fact launched in 1948 as a dressy gents’ watch that just happened to boast the same water-resistant structure that Omega had developed in the wartime years prior for the military watches it provided to the British Royal Air Force and other Allied units. The Seamaster Aqua Terra, usually abbreviated simply Aqua Terra, hit the market in 2003 and has served ever since as a more elegantly understated sibling of the sporty, more robustly built Seamaster Diver and Planet Ocean models. Like the 1948 Seamaster, Aqua Terra models eschew the rotating divers’ bezel and other tool-watch accouterments for a more streamlined style. The dials are characterized by simple wedge-shaped hour markers inspired by the silhouette of a sailboat, a triangular ho...

Grand Seiko’s Latest Limited Edition is a Urushi Lacquered Version of the “First” with a Gold Touch Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Latest Limited Edition Jan 31, 2023

Grand Seiko’s Latest Limited Edition is a Urushi Lacquered Version of the “First” with a Gold Touch

Grand Seiko has unveiled a new limited edition paying tribute to their very first watch, released in 1960. The occasion, of course, is the celebration of Seiko’s 110th anniversary, for which the traditional gift is allegedly something cast in Brilliant Hard Titanium. Ok, that might not actually be true. But the new SBGW295 makes tasteful use of Grand Seiko’s signature lightweight case metal while also incorporating some traditional Japanese craft in a way that Seiko and Grand Seiko have become known for.  Let’s take a look at the big picture first and state the obvious right away: this isn’t exactly new ground for Grand Seiko. They’ve returned to the design of the “First” (an on-the-nose nickname for an initial release if there ever was one) a number of times over the years. They’ve even made a version of the First in titanium, as an anniversary model, just three years ago. You would be forgiven for a rolling of the eyes if you remember that release and think to yourself that perhaps Grand Seiko should be trying something new. The new SBGW295 is, like many new Grand Seikos, an iteration on something that came before with only small changes. That’s a fair critique. But in a vacuum, the SBGW295 has a certain undeniable appeal.  That comes largely from the gorgeous black dial, which has been made using an Urushi lacquer process that incorporates several layers of lacquer for a dial with real depth and a handmade quality. Use of this particular type of lacq...

The Zenith Defy Revival A3690 Gets Historic Teal Dial Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Revival A3690 Gets Jan 31, 2023

The Zenith Defy Revival A3690 Gets Historic Teal Dial

There was one watch we saw at the LVMH Watch Week still under wraps, and it was also one of our favorites, even though it’s based on an existing model. The perfectly odd Defy Revival welcomes the new A3690 reference, with a brilliant teal dial with vignette effect that darkens towards the perimeter. If you’ve followed the first two releases of this Defy Revival, you won’t be surprised to hear that this is also based on a historic reference from 1969. This is a dial color that saw usage throughout the Defy collection of the era, another example of which you can see in this Affordable Vintage spotlight on the Defy from 2015. Side note, when are we getting the Revival treatment on the A781, A782, and A783? There’s not much left to say about the A3690 from a technical perspective, as it’s identical to the A3691, and A3642 we’ve seen released in recent months. The 37mm octagonal case and 14 sided bezel piece remain as funky as ever, and if you liked it on the other references, you’ll likely find a lot to love with this one. The dial is the biggest departure here and it makes just as big a statement as the case. While the teal dial thing has kind of jumped the shark at this point (hasn’t it?), Zenith gets a pass thanks to the historic reference point, and the fact that the Defy was doing integrated bracelet sport watches since the ‘60s. Plus, this is a great teal dial. It stands up to the bold design of the case and the accordion hour markers demanding equal at...

Reference Time: The White Gold Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Jan 31, 2023

Reference Time: The White Gold Vacheron Constantin American 1921

The Background What a year it has been for Vacheron. As the oldest maker in continual production, 2021 has marked the centenary year for the now iconic 1921 model. Not only that, but its Overseas has become the must have steel sports watch alongside the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Since the discontinuation of the 5711 and 15202, the time only, 42mm steel Overseas has seen waitlist explode in length. But we are of course here to discuss the wonderful 1921. So, a little background on Vacheron to kick things off. The Genevois watchmaker Jean-Mark Vacheron founded the company in 1755 at just 24 years of age (he must have weathered his fair share of storms over the years - how many businesses make it through 5 years today). His ambition was to create timepieces that would stand out for their elegance and quality. In 1785, Vacheron's son Abraham took over the company, which survived the French Revolution, among other economic crises. By 1814, third-generation watchmaker Jacques Barthelemy Vacheron was leading the company, but Vacheron realized that he needed a partner if the company was to survive. It wasn’t until 1819 when Francois Constantin, became a partner in the firm. From that point forward, it was "Vacheron & Constantin”.  The 1921 is a rare and unusual watch. You either love it or hate it (as all good design should be). Few will know that Vacheron Constantin did produce a similar looking watch first watch in 1919 which had the crown to the left of the lugs. It was a ru...

TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jan 31, 2023

TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach

TAG Heuer is certain to rank highly among lists of the most recognisable watch brands. Their commercial success in recent years, especially among our fellow Aussies, is rivalled only by a select few. The story is the same when one considers their rich and storied past, from their founding in 1860, until today. Patenting their … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Honouring the “First” with maki-e magic – the new Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition Grand Jan 31, 2023

INTRODUCING: Honouring the “First” with maki-e magic – the new Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition

Grand Seiko celebrates the 110th anniversary of Japan’s first wristwatch. The SBGW295 is inspired by Grand Seiko’s first watch from 1960 known as the “First”. Its black urushi lacquer dial and maki-e (sparkling picture) 24K powdered gold indices are crafted by master Isshu Tamura. I know it may seem like deja vu, after all, we did … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Honouring the “First” with maki-e magic – the new Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] The Freak Gets an Edit, The Curious Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed Ulysse Jan 30, 2023

[VIDEO] The Freak Gets an Edit, The Curious Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed

Ulysse Nardin is a peculiar brand. They have long been at the forefront of horological innovation, from marine chronometers in the 19th century, to creating stuff like DIAMonSIL in the 21st. However, they lack a singular, cohesive aesthetic that’s coalesced in broader culture in the same way watches like the Speedmaster, Submariner, or Royal Oak have. Except for a watch called the Freak, that is. A concept first released upon the world in 2001, the Freak was as impressive technologically as it was shocking to behold. With a movement that pivoted on itself to display the time, it was (and remains) daring, innovative, and downright novel. But, it never quite enjoyed a ‘hip status’ in the same way other exotic watches from the likes of MB&F; or Urwerk have since. This is likely due to a few reasons, but with the release of the Freak X in 2019, Ulysse Nardin is a whole lot closer. The Freak is a watch that has always commanded attention, both technically and visually speaking. The concept placed the gear train atop the mainspring, within a carousel that itself served as the minute hand. There was no dial to speak of, but rather a rotating plate containing the hour hand underpinning the structure. Winding and setting was managed via the deeply scalloped, somewhat steampunk-ish bezel unit. The launch of the Freak also marked the very first appearance of silicon within a watch movement, something the brand has been a pioneer of developing. This is a dramatic watch to behold ...

The Synchron Military Returns with Poseidon Diving Systems Connection Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 300t Jan 30, 2023

The Synchron Military Returns with Poseidon Diving Systems Connection

It’s been quite awhile since we’ve heard from the brand Synchron. You might remember a couple years back, the brand re-introduced themselves to the watch world with the Synchron Military, a funky diver that fully embodied 70’s design. The limited release was an instant hit and sold out immediately. The case shape and design of the Synchron Military mirrored that of a Doxa Sub 300t, with its cushion silhouette and crystal that is affixed flush against the bezel. But that was the only thing the two had in common. The Synchron Military sported this quirky dial layout, peculiar handset, and a fully-indexed countdown bezel without the no-deco scale. At the time, that combination, in that case format, was unlike anything we’ve seen which probably made the Military so popular, especially since the Doxa Sub 300 was already a beloved piece. Synchron and Doxa have a connected past in multiple fashions, and it turns out that the Synchron Military design resides within the Doxa catalog in the form of the Doxa Army. It just so happened that the Synchron Military got a leg up on the Doxa Army. I’m sure bygones can be bygones between the two brands. There’s plenty of room to play in the sandbox after all, and Synchron is coming back in a big way. In their latest release, Synchron has tapped the Sweden based dive gear outfit, Poseidon Diving Systems, with their new Poseidon Ice Diver. The outer ring of the dial has the same blocky design. The black minute track is accompanied ...

WOOO! That time wrestling legend Ric Flair lost his Rolex in a bowl of spaghetti Time+Tide
Rolex Jan 30, 2023

WOOO! That time wrestling legend Ric Flair lost his Rolex in a bowl of spaghetti

Editor’s note: Last Saturday the 2023 WWE Royal Rumble was held, so we are looking back at that time the greatest of all time Ric Flair told the tale of losing his Rolex watch in a bowl of spaghetti. Anyone who knows professional wrestling knows of the “Nature Boy” Ric Flair. The WWE Hall of … ContinuedThe post WOOO! That time wrestling legend Ric Flair lost his Rolex in a bowl of spaghetti appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen’s Latest Pair of Divers Pay Tribute to Classic Promasters Worn & Wound
Citizen s Latest Pair Jan 30, 2023

Citizen’s Latest Pair of Divers Pay Tribute to Classic Promasters

Much of the country might be gripped by the dead of winter, but that doesn’t mean we can’t start thinking about the summer watches we’ll be wearing just a few (OK, maybe more than “a few”) months from now. In fact, I’d argue that a week where you see multiple major snowstorms leaving the landscape gray, salt stained, and dangerously icy is the perfect time to consider the next summer sports watch. The power of positive thinking, and whatnot. Citizen, it turns out, has a few contenders that have just been announced if you’re on the hunt for something fun and sporty for the warmer months. A bonus: these also work perfectly fine in an Ice Station Zebra situation, but I’m trying to lift myself out of a winter funk, so bear with me while I indulge a short lived fantasy of beach weather and strong drinks with those little umbrellas in them.  The pair of watches making their debut this month are built on Citizen’s fantastic Eco-Drive platform of solar charged quartz movements, perhaps the ultimate in affordable grab-and-go watch tech. Each watch is also based on Citizen classics from the early 00s, a period of time when the Big Watch trend was reaching a peak. The “Autozilla,” released in 2002, was a titanium dive watch with a water resistance rating of 1,000 meters in an enormous 55mm case. Citizen followed that watch up with the “Ecozilla,” a version of the watch with a similar case but powered by light, in 2004. Both are highly sought after by Citize...

Live Long & Prosper with the Seconde Seconde x Vulcain Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute” Revolution
Vulcain Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute” Jan 30, 2023

Live Long & Prosper with the Seconde Seconde x Vulcain Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute”

Wei and Jeremiah talk about Vulcain, a brand that has languished in obscurity til Guillaume Laidet came along and revived its most iconic model, the Cricket. We decided our second collaboration with Guillaume had to be with the Cricket, and when satirical pop artist Romaric André joined the project, we knew the watch was going […]

Jaeger-LeCoultre Begins Selling Vintage Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Cartier Jan 29, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Begins Selling Vintage Watches

Buying a vintage watch can be daunting, especially for the beginner. Some watch brands offer a solution: restoring and selling their own vintage watches. The latest to enter this area is Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC). As part of its 190th anniversary debuts, JLC announces The Collectibles, a curated selection of vintage timepieces that have been restored by its watchmakers and certified by the brand. It offers enthusiasts the opportunity to own vetted examples of iconic vintage models like the Reverso.  A Shark Deep Sea chronograph from 1959 Initial thoughts As a collector of vintage watches, such programmes are a welcome development. I like it when brands take steps to preserve their heritage with such vintage offerings, though it was a surprise when JLC announced this. When it comes to vintage watches, JLC has always been under the radar, so its vintage watches have never quite enjoyed the levels of hype enjoyed by its peers. With The Collectibles, JLC seems to be trying to change that. Granted, this concept has been done before by brands like Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and Longines. Still, it will be interesting to see if and how The Collectibles develops the market for vintage JLC watches. A 1946 triple calendar in steel Admittedly, such factory-vetted timepieces are priced at a (steep) premium, but they come with a peace of mind, especially since scholarship about the brand is relatively nascent (perhaps in part due to the relative affordability of vintage JLC). On t...

Greubel Forsey Balancier S2: 20 Years In The Making – Reprise Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Balancier S2 20 Years Jan 29, 2023

Greubel Forsey Balancier S2: 20 Years In The Making – Reprise

Including established shapes, mechanics, and components within a watch that bucks the norm is a great way to gently pull people along as a watch brand goes in a new direction. Greubel Forsey has subtly mastered this technique, and the new Balancier S2 is the awesomely unique result. The Balancier S2 has the warmth of classic Greubel Forsey intermingled with the crisp future of the brand.