Deployant
Review: one month with the new Leica Q3 43
Released last year, and still with a waitlist is the Leica Q3 43. Many hail this as the perfect everyday carry. But what else is it good at? Is it perfect?
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Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Railmaster Review
The Omega Railmaster can best be put into historical context as of one of the most recognizable names in its category that arguably gets the least amount of attention. It hasn’t been a mainstay for the brand, and currently sits in purgatory, with no modern Railmaster existing in the contemporary Omega collection. It’s a black sheep with serious historical credentials that should have been a perennial adversary to the Rolex Explorer, and yet it became instead something of an enthusiast darling, a relic of esoterica. I would argue that it just missed its initial window to hit immortality, courtesy of little more than bad timing. It was, and remains, one of the coolest designs from a brand that really could rest on its laurels behind the Speedmaster and Seamaster. And with those two models mentioned, let’s properly understand the what, where, how, and why of the Omega Railmaster. Okay, and also the when. In 1957, Omega basically released the only three watches any brand would ever have to release to prove everlasting viability. Well, in theory, two of those brands seem to have done the trick – the Railmaster was just icing on the cake. Think of it like when Rolex unveiled the Submariner and the Explorer in the very same year, followed closely by the GMT-Master. Those three watches have experienced continuous production since that time and represent the core ethos of Rolex today. Similarly, in ‘57, we saw Omega unveil a trilogy of watches: The Seamaster, the Speedmas...
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The New Omega Railmaster With A Beige Or Gray Gradient Dial
With recent Speedmaster and Seamaster releases, Omega quietly put the new watches on its ambassadors’ wrists to hint at what was coming. We could have missed it, but we don’t think the same happened with the newly revised Railmaster. Supposedly, there was a leaked image, but it came with very little information. Luckily, we’ve recently […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Omega Railmaster With A Beige Or Gray Gradient Dial to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Omega Railmaster returns - do we have Cillian Murphy to thank?
Simple and stylish, the Omega Railmaster makes a welcome return after a lengthy hiatus.The post The Omega Railmaster returns – do we have Cillian Murphy to thank? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Portrait - For Professionals Only, Worldwatch.market, a Brilliant New Approach to the Global Watch Trade
The watch trade market has become sprawling. Digital channels have been added to single-brand and multi-brand points of sale: specialised platforms, digital media that have evolved towards an additional retail offering (limited and dedicated series), social networks (Instagram, WhatsApp, Telegram) flooded with offers of second-hand (and sometimes new) pieces. A jungle characterised by a common […]
Time+Tide
Naoya Hida releases the Type 6A perpetual calendar, rivalling equivalent Patek Philippe models (at least in price)
Naoya Hida presents their most complicated watch yet, powered by a Habring and Dubois-Dépraz perpetual calendar calibre.The post Naoya Hida releases the Type 6A perpetual calendar, rivalling equivalent Patek Philippe models (at least in price) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: a Bulova like Mobster Bugsy Siegel
Watch collector Quentin R. Bufogle was determined to add a piece to his collection harking back to those dust-strewn days of early Las Vegas, a time when the occasional tumbleweed still ambled along what would one day become the famous Las Vegas Strip. And he found it in a 1946 Bulova Aviator B. Here's how and why.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: The Best Modern Omega Speedmasters
It’s no secret that we’re Speedmaster fans here at Fratello. RJ, our founder, is an avid collector of these chronographs and the mind behind #SpeedyTuesday. But not all Speedies are created equal. Today, we’re looking at some of the best modern Omega Speedmaster models. RJ, Thomas, and Nacho have tasked themselves with selecting their top […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Modern Omega Speedmasters to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Explorer II 16570: The Best Value Rolex GMT
My first Rolex was an Explorer II 216570 with black dial and I absolutely loved that watch. It was rarer than the GMT-Master II or Submariner, and didn’t have the ceramic bezel, which I found to be a little too glossy and “luxe” for what I was looking for in a watch at the time. I kept and wore the heck out of that watch for almost six years until I just felt like it didn’t speak to me anymore. The 42mm wide “Maxi” case seemed too big and the big, thick hour and minutes hands just began to bug me. I can’t explain why I was so dead set on the 216570 rather than the older 16570 at the time but I can certainly say that now, in 2025, the Rolex Explorer II 16570 is not just my preferred iteration of the modern spelunking watch, but an all-timer from Rolex. I’ve started to refer to the 16570 as a “Forever Rolex” because it ticks all the boxes - size, reliability, dual-time functionality, and discrete aesthetics - all while remaining one of the few Rolexes that isn’t immediately recognizable to every casual observer. Let’s take a look at why I’m such a big fan of this old-school Rolex. Case and Specs: The Other Rolex GMT Measuring 40mm wide and 12.2mm thick with a 47mm lug-to-lug height, the 16570 is an eminently wearable Rolex. And while this is very obviously a sport/tool watch, these proportions make for a very versatile and subdued piece. No, there isn’t a rotating bezel with a nickname-ready color combo here. Rather, there is a demure, fixed ...
Worn & Wound
Naoya Hida & Co. Has Announced their 2025 Releases
Seeing a watch made by Naoya Hida & Co. in person for the first time was one of those moments when you truly realize that you have to experience a watch in the metal before casting judgement. At the time, the brand was only in its second full year, and most of the people commenting on the watches in online forums, Instagram, etc. were reacting to what they perceived as an exorbitant price tag. These specific watches, after all, used a (highly) modified Valjoux 7750 as the base movement – not exactly high horology. But when you handle one of these watches, wear it, and, importantly, turn the crown, you realize you’re dealing with an object that’s largely handmade, a fully fleshed out complete thought with a singular perspective. That’s a pretty rare thing, as are the hand carved dials that have become an aesthetic signature of the brand, and truly require magnification to fully grapple with. Naoya Hida & Co. has just unveiled their new slate of watches for 2025, and I imagine we’re heading for some of the same conversations we’ve heard before, but there’s a new watch in this crop of releases that should quiet at least some of the naysayers. The marquee release in this year’s lineup is the NH Type 6A, Naoya Hida’s most complicated watch to date and their first perpetual calendar. The 6A is made in the same vintage inspired style as all of Naoya Hida’s other watches, evoking classic pieces by Patek Philippe and others (but mostly Patek, let’s be honest...
SJX Watches
Report: Geneva Spring Auctions 2025
Despite everything, including tariffs and a strong Swiss franc, the Geneva auction season turned out to be a strong one, with some of the strongest results being in the most surprising segments. The bigger winner this season was Phillips, which sold a bit under 200 lots for CHF43.4 million including fees, while also claiming the most valuable lots for the season, reflecting Phillips’ strong leadership and team. Despite being the market leader by some margin, the Phillips catalogue was arguably the riskiest as it included several high-value pocket watches and clocks – timepieces that not part of mainstream collecting today. Yet the gamble paid off with the most valuable timepiece this season being its Breguet Sympathique no. 1 that sold for CHF5.51 million. Christie’s achieved CHF21.2 million with a similar number of lots that were arguably more conventional in taste and format than at Phillips. One of its most valuable lots was a Cartier Crash “NSO” with a special order dial that sold for CHF736,000 – one of the biggest surprises of the season but proof that being eye-catching enough for social media is a big factor in desirability and value today. Interestingly, the Crash sold for exactly the same as the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari. The Crash went for about 15 times the original retail, while the RM UP-01 was about half of retail. The Crash NSO “nickele” grey. Image – Christie’s Over at Antiquorum, the tally was CHF10 million – from almost 800 lot...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Throw Back To Vintage Vibes With The 'Deep Diver' (Live Pics)
With a super-compressor-style case and a ton of color, this could be a great pick for an elevated and exciting summer diver.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Ice Blue Kurono Tokyo 2025 Jubilee Sensu EOL
After several years of covering this independent Japanese watch brand, you should now be familiar with Kurono Tokyo‘s work. And if not, what matters here is that we’re looking at the accessible side of independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka (also behind the return of Takano), with classic designs and outsourced movements to keep the prices reasonable. […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition with Bamford
Girard-Perregaux has a rich history and has produced quite a few exceptional timepieces over time. The 1969 Deep Diver Ref. 9108 may not be as complex and elaborate or iconic as some of the brand’s better-known creations (Laureato, Tourbillons or Bridges, both historical and modern), but it left its mark as a rare dive watch […]
Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department
As many of you know, the late ’60s and the first half of the ’70s were an era of design experimentation in the watch industry. While Girard-Perregaux might not be the first name on people’s tongues when it comes to funky watches from this period, don’t think the brand didn’t have any. With the Casquette […] Visit Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface
What happens when you take the 2755 QP movement out of the 2017 Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 (ref. 80172/000R-B406), update the design so it caters to an audience with a more contemporary taste, and put it in the sportiest of watch designs available? You get the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface. This limited-production watch is […] Visit Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s First Chiming Sports Watch, the Overseas Grand Complication
Vacheron Constantin (VC) continues its 270th anniversary festivities with its first minute-repeating sports watch, the Overseas Grand Complication Openface. In addition to the repeater, the manually wound movement also features a perpetual calendar, tourbillon, and rear-facing power reserve indicator. All of this is housed in a titanium case rated to 30 m, which is a notable degree of water resistance for a chiming watch. This is also the first Overseas model with the “Openface” treatment, which pays homage to rock crystal dials found in vintage clocks and pocket watches with a clear sapphire dial exposing the perpetual calendar works. Image – Vacheron Constantin Initial Thoughts It’s unusual, but a chiming sports watch makes sense considering the direction of consumer preferences for complications. That said, the minute repeater has been slow to make its way into sports watches, despite enjoying renewed popularity for the past few decades, due to the challenges of waterproofing the charging slide and preserving sound quality. This has created a perception of water resistance and sound being mutually exclusive, which has only recently been challenged. Audemars Piguet was an early pioneer with water-resistant repeaters, and now Vacheron Constantin has entered the fray with a water-resistant minute-repeating integrated-bracelet sports watch of its own. While 30 m of water resistance is low compared to other models in the Overseas collection, it’s significant for a ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Defy Skyline Review
While the El Primero movement architecture may serve as the face of the Zenith brand, it is the Defy collection that remains its soul. The Defy represents an historically significant ethos for Zenith, a creative foundation that is just as important to the Swiss brand’s past as it is to its future. Originally meant to be a showcase of innovation and ideas, the Defy collection serves dual purposes: to preserve and celebrate innovations of the past in the “Revival” subfamily, and to continue innovating for the future in the series’ other branches. In 2022, the brand took a big step toward the future of the collection with the release of the Zenith Defy Skyline, a watch that simultaneously looked to build on successful elements of the past and also to capitalize on the integrated-bracelet sport watch trend that had taken hold of the industry. The Zenith Defy collection has roots in the 1960s and ‘70s, when many of the brand’s most iconic and exciting references were released (you can read a more in-depth history here). Many of these have been reborn in the form of modern Revival references, allowing a new generation of enthusiasts to discover them again, or for the first time. These designs weren’t afraid to take risks, from the shape of the case, to the bracelet integration, right into the dial colors and textures. The Defy name quickly came to signify a huge amount of character, and that’s on full display within the brand’s current stable. In finding a mo...
Monochrome
First Look - The new 36mm Seiko Presage Classic Series “Edo Silk” Models
While the name Presage has been around since the 1960s, it remains one of these hidden gems that only Japan could enjoy, being one of the numerous JDM-only (Japan Domestic Market) ranges. Things changed in 2016, as Seiko decided to revamp the collection entirely and open it to the world. Since then, this collection has […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the echo/neutra Chrono GMT
Sometimes, no matter how many hours we spend scrolling on Instagram and monitoring various watch-focused group chats, things slip through the cracks. Watches that check all the right boxes to rise above the noise of a crowded market go unnoticed and become sleeper hits instead of hits, and creativity that deserves widespread celebration instead receives a splattering of quiet applause. For collectors that enjoy witnessing brands evolve and develop distinct design DNA in real time, it can be a bummer to discover your radar missed something great. But on the bright side, this scenario allows for instant gratification and the opportunity to speed run a brand’s evolution to the present day. This was my experience when Italian microbrand echo/neutra released the Rivanera at the end of last year. Like many of you, I was pleasantly caught off guard by the rugged take on the classic rectangular dress watch, but didn’t recognize the name divided by a distinct slash on the dial. This sent me digging through surprisingly sparse reviews and forum threads where I discovered that the Rivanera was far from beginner’s luck, and was actually the result of a year’s long evolution that began in the way many do, with a safe and somewhat generic field watch on Kickstarter. Watching aging YouTube videos, this actual first release called the Averau (which later included a very cool moon phase) looks like exactly the type of watch I would’ve chased in 2019 when specs and MSRP were my pr...
Deployant
Walkthrough video of the new Gerald Charles Museum
We were invited to the Gerald Charles. Federico Ziviviani, the CEO showing us the new museum, the watchmaker's atelier and his office.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface
A new flagship for the Overseas line, and the first reference to feature a minute repeater.
Monochrome
Introducing - Drawing with Gemtones, the New Czapek Promenade Diamond Drops
Czapek embraces the trend for more compact, unisex watch sizes and has clearly understood that the days when diamonds and gemstones were considered exclusively feminine adornments are well behind us. Released in 2024, Czapek’s Promenade collection is, in CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel’s words, “a canvas for creative expression” with beautiful dials that riff on the […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New ZRC Grands Fonds Heritage Smoke
Except if you’re a hardcore dive watch enthusiast, ZRC might not immediately ring a bell. And yet, it is a rather important name for divers, particularly in France. An old company that once created a watch for the French Navy and delivered them for a good 35 years, the whole concept was brought back to […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface
Long considered the domain of delicate watches, grandes complications (in the more extensive use of the term, and not the traditional definition of the grande complication – repeater + chrono + calendar) have found their way into collections designed for adventure. The incorporation of complications reflects a broader change in watchmaking, where tradition is no […]
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Stowa Marine Original Arabic is Fit for a Life at Sea (Incl. Video)
German watchmaking company Stowa has been around for more than a century, and throughout that time, it became primarily known for two things: pilots’ watches and marine chronometers. These instruments were crucial in the early days of navigating the seas, as they were vital instruments in pinpointing where you were on your journey and where […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Snowflake Review
The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is not just a watch that helped define Grand Seiko as a luxury brand to be reckoned with in the 21st Century: it is also at the vanguard of an industry-wide movement toward making dials more beautiful, enticing, and unique - not only with the bold use of color, but with textures that play with the concept of 3D space and the interplay of light and shadow. Nearly every Grand Seiko model of note can claim a dial (and often a nickname) with a distinctly eye-catching motif, usually inspired by the breathtaking natural wonders of the company’s native Japan. Other luxury watch brands have noticed and followed suit - from luxury leaders like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, to attainable brands like little-brother Seiko and its main competitor, Citizen. The “Snowflake,” Grand Seiko’s first and still most famous textured dial, is arguably the OG of this trend; here is the story of how it came to be and where it stands today. As success stories for new watch brands go, it’s hard to find a better case study in the past decade than Grand Seiko. The Japanese high-luxury watchmaker has, in its relatively short stint in the international market, elevated itself in the eyes of many collectors to the upper echelon of watchmaking prestige and collectibility, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. This plaudit, of course, comes with a caveat: Grand Seiko is not ...
Deployant
Review: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold, fitted with a Milanese bracelet and dial also in pink gold.
Fratello
Debuted But Not Debated: The Green Cerachrom Dial In The Left-Handed White Gold Rolex GMT-Master II “Sprite”
It was the Land-Dweller that stole the limelight, and understandably so. After all, it’s not often that The Crown presents an entirely new collection with a groundbreaking movement innovation to boot. I did feel sorry for the other novelties, though. The pastel-tinted Oyster Perpetual watches were quite lovely, for instance, but they got trampled on […] Visit Debuted But Not Debated: The Green Cerachrom Dial In The Left-Handed White Gold Rolex GMT-Master II “Sprite” to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With Two New Versions Of The Popular Tusenö Shellback V2 Dive Watch
Tusenö has been making a name for itself with the Shellback V2 dive watch. The Swedish brand has been around for a decade this year, but the Shellback has done the most to get the Tusenö name out there. With cleverly designed details and solid build quality, this dive watch has become a fan favorite […] Visit Hands-On With Two New Versions Of The Popular Tusenö Shellback V2 Dive Watch to read the full article.