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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.
Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) Time+Tide
Tissot revives Jun 1, 2023

Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics)

The 1970s were a spawning ground for all things weird and wonderful in design, leaving behind the classical, restrained designs of the mid-century aesthetic. Bullhead chronographs, TV cases and the idea of steel as a luxury material emerged in the watch world, along with some truly unique trailblazers getting lost amid the flurry of change. … ContinuedThe post Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver Worn & Wound
May 31, 2023

[Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver

Aera Instruments is a brand based in the UK that just unveiled their second collection, consisting of incremental updates to their D-1 and P-1 diver and pilot watches. The D-1 Ocean Diver is a blue version of the black watch that debuted last year, and it has a couple of small less visible refinements that improve the overall experience Aera is providing. The choices they made – what to update, and what not to update – reveal something about where the brand might be heading, and what they deem important. I had a chance to briefly handle the initial D-1 and P-1 releases last year, and while I thought they were completely fine, they didn’t linger in the mind the way some watches do. I’ve been wearing the D-1 for about a week now, though, and find myself really enjoying the subtly complex design choices and distinctly contemporary vibe of this dive watch.  $1600 [Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver Case 904L Steel Movement Sellita SW200-1 Elabore Grade Dial Blue Lume Globolight markers Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 40 x 49.8mm Thickness 16mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1600 Notable Specs and Features  Looking through the spec sheet, the number that will likely jump out at most people right away is the D-1’s diameter: a healthy 44mm. And that’s not the only large number you’ll find when you take your calipers to the case. The lug to lug is 49.8mm, the lug width is 22mm, and the case height (to th...

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The Certina DS Action Diver takes a trip to the darkside Time+Tide
Certina DS Action Diver takes May 31, 2023

The Certina DS Action Diver takes a trip to the darkside

The Certina DS Action Diver is now available in a stealthy black finish. The 43mm case is tamed by the black PVD and a 13.1mm thickness. It’s powered by the Powermatic 80, with an 80-hour power reserve. The growth of Certina’s catalogue in the last couple of years has been especially fun to watch as … ContinuedThe post The Certina DS Action Diver takes a trip to the darkside appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive Time+Tide
May 31, 2023

How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive

Watches and military history have an unbreakable bond. You only need to think back to the very beginnings of the wristwatch as a tool. During the Anglo-Burma War and First Boer War, soldiers began to strap pocket watch cases with primitive soldered lugs to their wrists, which opened the door for a new market. Fast-forward … ContinuedThe post How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Rado Adds Three New Ceramic Watches to their Great Gardens of the World Series Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko have been doing May 30, 2023

Rado Adds Three New Ceramic Watches to their Great Gardens of the World Series

Since 2017, Rado has partnered with the Great Gardens of the World organization on watches that are inspired both by nature and the sometimes meticulous preparation of the world’s great gardens. Watchmaking and gardening might seem like an unlikely match at first, but this series is really an opportunity for Rado designers to use the natural world as a starting point for their work, which isn’t so different from what brands like Grand Seiko have been doing for years. It’s interesting to see Rado’s take on a “nature” watch, though, as they apply texture and materials in markedly different ways than other brands, coming up with watches that are very distinctly their own, with a focus on materials and highlighting Rado’s unique visual design language.  The latest watches in the series are all inspired by specific plants found in different corners of the world, but are currently on the endangered species list. They have dynamic, textured dials and use Rado’s True Thinline ceramic case and bracelet platform as a starting point. First up is Chapter 8 (it’s the 8th watch in this ongoing series), inspired by the Hawaiian Loulu Lelo plant, which has distinct pleated leaves. The dial is broken up into separate sectors that have the pleats running in opposite directions, creating an almost psychedelic effect that is common to this series. While the Loulu Lelo leaves are a verdant green, this watch has been rendered entirely in black ceramic, with contrasting gold t...

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Hands On With The IWC Portofino 39mm Chronograph WatchAdvice
IWC Portofino 39mm Chronograph It’s May 30, 2023

Hands On With The IWC Portofino 39mm Chronograph

It’s not often that we get a dress watch to review, and even rarer that I would wear a more dressier watch around for a week or so, but the IWC Portofino held it’s own and even got out to an event or two where I could really show it off. What We Love Clean easy to read dialClassic looks that won’t date39mm size wears well What We Don’t Lack of see through case backNo Date displayNot easy to read in low light with no lume Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 The Portofino collection has been around since 1984 in the IWC catalogue, and offers an alternative to the Portugieser range for those wanting a slightly smaller and more elegant piece on their wrist. If you’ve kept up with my other articles around dress watches, many of you may know that I’m not massively into dress watches but was keen to try out the new IWC Portofino Chronograph 39mm. It’s a watch that grows on you. If you’re like me and not naturally inclined to wear more formal watches, then you really need to spend time with the Portofino to appreciate it. You probably should also be the person that can either pull off a more dressier watch with casual clothes, or have places to wear this, like more formal events, business attire at the office or even just a nice dinner out where you can admire the watch in the dimmer restaurant lighting. Given I’m not an office worker anymore, I opted for the event and dinners out options to show this piec...

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Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium SJX Watches
Sarpaneva May 30, 2023

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has revealed the newest iteration of his trademark complication, the Lunations Black Ruthenium. Equipped with his proprietary moon phase movement, the Lunations moon phase is so accurate it will accumulate a mere one-day discrepancy after 14,000 years. Limited to just ten pieces, this is a variant of a model first introduced a dozen years ago, but remains the brand’s most complex wristwatch. Initial thoughts The Lunations has all of the Sarpaneva design elements, including the moon “face”, open-worked dial (which in this case is actually the movement), laser engraved decoration as well as hand finishing, so it resembles many of the brand’s other watches. But the Lunations is actually one of the most complex watches devised by Sarpaneva. The Lunations is unusual in combining both the brand’s recognisable design with an original movement, one developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, whereas most of Sarpaneva’s other watches are powered by simpler, outsourced movements.  Constructed in a novel manner with a two-disc moon phase display that’s so large it’s almost the diameter of the movement, the calibre inside is both interesting and complex. However, a moon phase complication is usually simple – and inexpensive – in most other watches. Consequently, the Lunations feels pricey with its €39,500 price tag, particularly so considering that Sarpaneva’s other moon phase models powered by outsourced movements cost hal...

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Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar Time+Tide
Rolex May 30, 2023

Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar

Their name may not be as recognised as Rolex by the hoi polloi, but Singaporean microbrand Boldr Supply Co. has long been something of an insider’s secret among watch collectors. A winning combination of adventurous designs, fantastic build quality, and sought-after specs, all at “how do they do it?” prices, have made Boldr a favourite … ContinuedThe post Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Maurice Lacroix Resurrects the Fan Favorite Pontos S Diver Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Resurrects May 29, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Resurrects the Fan Favorite Pontos S Diver

Maurice Lacroix dropped some surprising news this week by announcing that the Pontos S Diver will be making a return. First released 10 years ago, the Pontos S Diver was short-lived once the brand decided to move their focus to the Aikon watch, which has taken a number of forms in the intervening years. The Pontos S Diver always hit a bit differently, though, and we’re thrilled to see it making a comeback in a very similar fashion to what it once was (for better or worse), as there’s never enough good looking internal bezel divers out there.  The new Pontos S Diver gets a familiar design right out of the box, which is a good thing in many ways, though perhaps a hindrance in others. The simple dial gets long hour and minute markers reaching into the dial against a set of straight hands with a slight taper, framed by the internal rotating bezel which gets the only numerals in sight outside of the date aperture at 6 o’clock. There’s not much to it, but Maurice Lacroix gets the proportions of everything just right, capturing the timeless appeal of this look. The internal bezel can be adjusted by the crown at 2 o’clock on the case, which appears to stick out a touch further than the original design, but the contrasting ring at the base of the crown remains. Unlike the original examples, the date disc has been color matched to the dial. The steel case measures 42mm in diameter, shedding a single millimeter from the original’s size, and comes in a hair thinner as the...

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The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph is infused with racing spirit and vintage style Time+Tide
May 29, 2023

The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph is infused with racing spirit and vintage style

Depancel and Jürgen Clauss have reunited for a second limited edition. The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph captures the racing spirit and blazing blues of the Alpine A110. They’ve used new-old-stock Valjoux 7753 movements, refurbished for vintage vibes and modern reliability. Many people wouldn’t have heard of Alpine were it not for the Renault Formula 1 … ContinuedThe post The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph is infused with racing spirit and vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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De Bethune Debuts the DB28xs Starry Seas, a Smaller Version of their Signature Design with a Beautiful Ocean Inspired Dial Worn & Wound
De Bethune Debuts May 29, 2023

De Bethune Debuts the DB28xs Starry Seas, a Smaller Version of their Signature Design with a Beautiful Ocean Inspired Dial

The De Bethune DB28 is an absolutely insane watch. As I found out for myself in Geneva earlier this year, the watch’s large proportions play tricks on you: it’s enormous to the eye, but incredibly light on the wrist thanks to the titanium case construction and airy design with those patented hollowed out, articulating lugs. Even though this watch is the ultimate example of “It actually wears a lot smaller…” I think it’s understandable that collectors would call for a version that’s actually smaller, and that’s what De Bethune has delivered with the new DB28xs Starry Seas. This is essentially a scaled down version of the DB28 that incorporates a fantastic and first of its kind dial that applies guilloche in an entirely new way.  The centerpiece here is certainly the dial, which is made from heat blued titanium, taking on the dramatic bright blue shade that has become a De Bethune hallmark of sorts. The decoration is what De Bethune refers to as “random guilloche,” and they say this is the first time this technique has been used in a watch dial design. The cumulative effect is a dial that looks like ocean waves in motion, and it’s been accented with small white gold “stars” to create the impression of the night sky being reflected off the surface of a body of water. It’s a natural extension of other “Starry” De Bethune references, which typically depict a night sky view. The case will be familiar to those who know the DB28 (the lucky few). It...

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Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde May 29, 2023

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

‘Tis the year for the retrograde display here at Vacheron Constantin. The grand dame of watchmaking has released no fewer than three models with the mechanism at Watches & Wonders 2023. The first model is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, the most complicated of the lot. The next one is the Patrimony Retrograde Day-DateRead More

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De Bethune Navigates Uncharted Territory with the Stunning DB28xs Starry Seas Quill & Pad
De Bethune Navigates Uncharted Territory May 29, 2023

De Bethune Navigates Uncharted Territory with the Stunning DB28xs Starry Seas

De Bethune has a thing for stars, but the way that they present them in the DB28xs Starry Seas is something that we haven't seen before. As the name already hints, are the stars reflected in an ocean full of waves. To create this effect, De Bethune invented a random guilloché pattern, a world's first, representing the waves.

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The Last Emperor’s Patek Philippe: History in the Making Revolution
Patek Philippe History May 29, 2023

The Last Emperor’s Patek Philippe: History in the Making

Step into history and witness the remarkable journey of Puyi’s wristwatch, an artifact that carries the weight of a bygone era. This iconic timepiece, belonging to the legendary emperor, will soon go under the hammer at Phillips auctioneers, and its story is truly captivating. Georgy Permyakov, Puyi’s Russian translator, was entrusted with preserving the memories […]

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FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast Time+Tide
May 28, 2023

FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast

The Fast & Furious films are a fun, perhaps, guilty pleasure for millions. The franchise is essentially a racing soap opera packed with fight scenes and plot-lines spiked with twist, turns and resurrections. I could probably put together a more in-depth intro here. But time is ticking. With such a large cast throughout the years, … ContinuedThe post FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet who’ve announced May 28, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro

In episode 51 of A Week In Watches we take a look at a trio of new Monaco watches from TAG Heuer leading into the race weekend in, well, Monaco, as well as a watch that’s taken shape almost entirely in the US of A from the workshop of J.N. Shapiro. Those two watches might be on opposite ends of the spectrum, but there’s plenty more to discuss in the middle, from a new Mathey Tissot x Massena LAB, Breitling Classic AVI watches (including one sweet re-edition), and news from Audemars Piguet, who’ve announced a new CEO to take the helm of the brand beginning next year. Plus, one spicy comment from last week’s episode. Be sure to catch next week’s episode, which marks one full year of A Week In Watches in, naturally, episode 52. It’s a special episode with Zach, Zach, and Blake taking a seat to answer questions submitted through our Worn & Wound+ Slack channel, which you can join by signing up for our weekly newsletter right here. Be sure to head over to YouTube to leave a comment on this episode and the next for a chance to be featured in an upcoming episode, and let us know your thoughts on the stories featured this week. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Leica’s Q Series Takes a Leap Forward with Newly Released Q3, Designing the Next Timepiece for the U.K. National Rail Network & a Couple of Intriguing Announcements from the Playstation Showcase Worn & Wound
May 27, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Leica’s Q Series Takes a Leap Forward with Newly Released Q3, Designing the Next Timepiece for the U.K. National Rail Network & a Couple of Intriguing Announcements from the Playstation Showcase

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Leica Leica Releases Third Generation Of Q Series With Q3 Via Leica The Leica Q2 has developed a Swiss army knife, do-it-all reputation amongst the photography community since it was released back in 2019. With a wide 28mm Summilux lens, a macro shooting mode, and a digital zoom feature that offers an equivalent to a wide array of focal lengths, the Q2 can hold its own as a one-camera option on assignment, or as a trusty secondary shooter. Our very own Kat Shoulders and photographer Zach Piña had sung the praises of the Q2 in a recent Changing Gears podcast, but one thing they mentioned that could elevate the Q2 to greater heights would be a 40mm fixed lens. With appropriate timing, Leica announced the Q2’s successor this week with the brand new Q3. Although the next generation “Q” is still equipped with the 28mm f/1.7 Summilux (sorry Kat and Zach), it boasts updates in other areas including a 60 megapixel sensor, 8K video quality and improved auto-focusing capabilities. Via Leica The Leica Q3 features a 60 megapixel sensor from the previous 45 megapixel se...

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The light-hearted magic of the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Full May 27, 2023

The light-hearted magic of the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire

Hublot dominate the sapphire-case game to the extent that other brands barely even attempt to match them. Previous years have seen the Big Bang in orange, pink, yellow, green, and even wine red, with no signs of the momentum slowing down. It has proven Hublot’s humility in approaching something as high-end as a tourbillon watch … ContinuedThe post The light-hearted magic of the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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